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Showing results for tags 'e30'.
Found 247 results
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Not sure if you’ve seen my endless posts about hunting down a car, which started with an e36 and somehow got diverted to an e30. Finally bit the bullet with what may actually be a bit of a 🍋 in hindsight 😅 (I’ll explain later). A bit about the car first. She started her life in the land of the rising sun in 1988 as a 320i coupe in alpine white and migrated to the land of the long white cloud in 1997. It’s had extensive service history that I can see up until October 2018 when a m52b28 + 5spd (haven’t jacked up yet so don’t know what box) found its way in the engine bay. On viewing and a quick test drive: Pros: - Mechanically sounded and felt well: quick turnover on a cold start, idled well, power felt fine, no knocks or ticking, transmission was smooth. - Wof, reg, and also certed for engine, seats, brakes, suspension - Pretty straight body. Doesn’t look like it’s been in an accident at all. - Central locking with an immobiliser - 2dr and a slick top Cons: - Has the usual e30 imperfections: some rust / corrosion in the common spots (except for the passenger door which may end up being pandora’s box), cracked dash, and paint fade - Wiring’s a bit of a mess in the engine bay and under the driver’s dash - AC deleted - Windows only go up/down if a door is open (some problem with the wiring from the alarm apparently) After some thinking and asking around, I decided to just go for it so I bought it. Picked it up yesterday and that’s where we get to the to the potential lemon part. After a few stops and a bit of time driving around the tron (got some kai, gas, and pumped up tyres), my mate and I noticed a bit of white smoke coming out of the exhaust that kept going (noticed it when I first viewed it 1-2 weeks ago but thought it was just the cold and picked it up late arvo/evening yesterday so initially thought it was also just the cold). By this point we needed to top up the oil as it was sitting low so did that and after a few mins it went away. On the drive back my mate couldn’t tell whether or not smoke was coming out of the engine while driving (I drove the other car) but had his eyes on the temp gauge, which didn’t move. In saying that, we made it back to Auckland with no issues, even with a few moments of ‘spirited’ driving, and had no smoke coming from the engine bay when he was parking it at my place. Another worry is that this morning, I saw that the radiator had been slowly leaking coolant, at least overnight (see video below, have also put pictures of the oil cap, and the coolant reservoir cap) So it looks like the urgent things to do: - New rad (any recommendations?) - Get it to a mechanic to test if the head gasket’s blown I’ll take some photos of the car when I finish getting over the fact that I may have made such a dumb decision 😂. Cheers IMG_1161.MOV
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Does anyone have a link or know how to remove this hole unit?
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Does anyone know the fitment of a M20 gearbox to a M52b25? Car in question is an E36 323i I've tried searching and I'm sure that its been discussed a lot before however the general consensus from what I have seen online is that an M20 will bolt up to an M52 however will need to have custom mounts made due it it sitting on an angle? I am unsure whether my current clutch or driveshaft would fit. Reason for M20 box (please correct me if I'm wrong {probably am}) is that there seem to be a lot more of them around and they are a lot cheaper than E36 box's which are slightly different? from my understanding. I very much appreciate any responses on here as my current box G220 (If I've identified it correctly) has decided it doesn't really want to be a gearbox anymore and the only box's (or rebuild cost) I have seen is $3500 and up.
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2.8 Crank, 2ltr rods and machined bolt for sale. Bought these from Ray a few years back https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1514648119
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Hello friends, I have been having some starting issues with my E30 for the last little while. Here are the following symptoms, and a little update at the end from today which might narrow things down. Please have a look below and let me know what you think it might be: Engine needs to crank for like 5+ seconds with my foot 30% on the accelerator before it is able to start Only marginally better when the engine is warm A whole bunch of very fuelly smoke comes out from the exhaust when it starts (exhaust smoke looks and smells "regular" after driving a while though) Engine can sputter slightly for maybe 1-2 seconds when gently accelerating from stand still When moving slowly in crawling traffic, sometimes can hear motor revs slightly modulating/pulsing, going up and down Rough idle When 3-point-turning into parking spot, during the 2nd turn when the car changes direction from fwd/back with low revs, very rarely the engine can die/stall out Fuel economy is pretty poor. Went very roughly 400km on a 60L tank of fuel, so around 15L/100km. I haven't driven my E30 in a long while but I remember 10-12L/100km as a ballpark economy figure Now for the potentially informative clue today: I had a feeling my issues are fuel related, so I swapped out my fuel filter this afternoon as it was long overdue. Following a youtube guide, I took out the fuel pump relay and started the car. Without the pump the car quickly clears out the fuel in the line so I'm not drenched when I take off the old filter. After taking the old one out (and getting slightly drenched in the residual fuel) and putting the new one in, the lines are obviously very empty of fuel prior to starting the engine. Turning the key and expecting another 5+ second beating before it starts, I was ecstatic when the engine started 2nd crank! No staring issues at all! I ran it for about 10 seconds and switched it off. Attempt number 2 was also very smooth and successful! I drove to the petrol station with the hugest grin, beaming!! My long term problem was finally fixed!! However, after a 5min drive and a refuel, the engine was back to it's old 5+ crank battle from before. Same with the slight sputter when gently accelerating. TLDR and my amateur thoughts: Something is causing my car to inject waaaayy too much fuel when starting? (Potentially just all the time). Car struggles to start for ages and when it finally does there is a big cloud of fuelly smoke. When I emptied the fuel lines today the car started no problem. But after driving around perhaps the lines are filled again and the car gets too much fuel again to start easily? Does this sound like something you know? Would greatly appreciate any hints and tips. My precious E30 has been a bit of a concern for a while, and now I'm commuting again it's something I'd like to iron out asap. Cheers in advance for the help guys! 😄 Edit: My car also had this weird additional hose sticking out into the air. I'm pointing at it on the right. The photos are looking up into the bottom of the car. This hose wasn't in the E30 video I watched. But I read somewhere the larger fuel tanks have an additional line or something?
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Hey guys, was wondering if anyone around has done a 5 lug swap on a e30 318i? I'm aware the 318i came with drum brakes in the rear. I think this is going to be the cheapest way to upgrade all the brakes for certification, as the e30 I am looking at buying has a pretty hefty engine conversion. What I'm hoping for is some way to do it with parts I can find at a local pick-a-part or similar (e36, e46 parts). Should I just take the entire rear assembly from an e36 and mix and match parts from the e30 or? I'm aware theres a bunch of ways to do it from having a look on the net but I'm not sure any of them work with the rear drum brakes on the 318i. I could go the route of purchasing a big brake kit for the certification but that costs like $1200 just for the front OR rear. Im happy to spend about that to do front AND rear. If anyone could give me some guidance (i.e. parts list, etc) that would be super helpful. Cheers.
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Looking to buy an engine & gearbox for E30 M325i. Preferably after: M20B25 Ideally the engine will be good enough to drop in and wire up, also don't mind refreshing gaskets.Require Loom and Ecu Also interested in stroker variants (2.7,2.8,2.9). Getrag 260 gearbox. Located in AKL willing to travel for the right setup.
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Actuator seized up and the passenger door no longer unlocks. I managed to finally take it out, free it up and lubricated it, but after a few weeks working it has seized again, so I guess it's time to look for a replacement. If you can point me to somewhere that might have one that would be great too, otherwise it's eBay o'clock for me. Cheers!
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Looking at getting the umnitza project30s for my e30, anyone else have these? What's your experience with them? Cheers.
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Hello dear bimmersport community members! I have been overseas for the last few years and have recently moved back to NZ to be reunited with my sweet, sweet car. Unfortunately over these years the plastic rear window has finally given up, and the stitching around it has begun to disintegrate. I am looking at replacement roofs (rooves?) from overseas and have been looking at online guides on how to do it. But before I go ahead and bite the bullet, I was wondering if anyone can recommend a local place to go? Would be good to get some context on pricing to see whether or not importing one from overseas is the right thing to do. It can be to buy a roof itself, get someone to replace just the window, the whole thing, etc... I am pretty open to suggestions. Thanks all for your time and help 😊
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Hey guys and gals, looking for a manual coupe either 318i or 325i preferably. Non sunroof as well. Located Auckland. Cheers
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Hey does anyone have any recommendations on where i could get some engine mounts to fit a M30 into my e30? I Have contacted Garagisitics and there mounts are all sold out, (no sign of restock). I know there are a couple of other alternatives overseas however thought id try my luck in NZ before Ii order internationally.
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https://youtu.be/qWduC7g8zLg I've been watching a lot of older ATCC footage and enjoy watching the 325i Tony Longhurst raced, I've been told one JPS 325i is in Australia and the other is in New Zealand both racing in Historic Touring Car classes, which one is which?
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Morning Team. Having a nightmare trying to figure out why this lady will not start.. 1991 e30 with an 89 e34 535i m30. I finished the swap about a month ago and got it started for 1-2 mins before my buddie played with the throttle to try and get it to idle lower... In doing so we heard a fairly loud plastic tick/crack and the motor died.. After we could not get it to start and put it down to a broken tps... From there I have done a 3 wire tps swap (auto to manual) and setup all the other wires as needed. I have run a multi meter across the tps and am getting the correct voltage and continuity between the pins as per the Bentley manual... I have pulled the plugs and have spark on all cylinders as well as fuel for all. Crank sensor is within 540 + - oms. I tried carby cleaner in the intake and got a cough but nothing else.. Ideas? Am I missing something simple? If anyone is keen on some cash/beers/joy rides once finished and is willing to come round and lend a hand, would be greatly apricated! I'm in east auckland. Cheers
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Hello there, I am currently on the hunt for a cheap daily. I am looking for something with current WOF and REGO ans something that won’t be needing a lot of work to maybe be a little nice. obviously needs to be running and driving. I am located in Auckland but anywhere in the north island shouldn’t be a problem. Unfortunately I am on a pretty low budget of around $3000, not really expecting something perfect at that price range so not pretty fussed about the condition as long as it meets my requirements stated above and is in dailiable condition. Looking forward to seeing what out there. Cheers, Stay safe.
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As per the title, looking on behalf. Wellington, Manawatu or Picton preferred but will consider other options. Thanks. EDIT: and if it's cheap/free enough would consider complete engines.
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Hi All, I have finally decided that I am looking to put this on the market, with plans to go to an E92 335i I feel I can't really own two hefty cars (although I'd love to). It's a great car, Drives extremely well and has been very reliable. It is quick as you can imagine, Breaking traction very easy at WOT. I have taken this on long drives across the country and it is an awesome car to drive. It's an 1989 320i NZ New Touring. LVV Certified, WOF and Rego. All parts are near new and have been installed since 5000kms done since the swap. Drivetrain: Engine: 2003' S54b32, At approx 110,000kms. New OEM parts done within last 5000kms (Since and during swap) New coils, Spark plugs, Gaskets throughout, Waterpump, All coolant hoses, MAF, CCV and hose to airbox, O2 sensors. Fully rebuilt VANOS with Beisan kit, Beisan anti-rattle kit, Beisan Oil Disk, Upgraded Cam bolts I have a valve shim kit, may do the adjustment sometime soon otherwise available, plus I have all the valve cam timing tools. Gearbox: 6-Speed Getrag 420g from the E46 M3 Lightweight Aluminium flywheel, 14lbs Sachs clutch kit. Rogue short shift kit. Delrin bushed shifter linkage. Diff 3.73 LSD, Completely rebuilt by Kayne Barry Motorsport. 4x new clutches (~40% lock). Z3M coupe 3 core radiator, 16" thermo switch controlled fan. AFE Stage 2 air intake, custom Fiberglass airbox E30 S54 Ergen Motorsport Headers, Exhaust system runs from headers twin 2.5" stainless to behind the gearbox, then merges into a 3" Stainless system with Vibrant Resnator and Borla rear muffler. Aftermarket oil cooler mounted behind the front grills Walbro 255lph fuel pump, New fuel lines throughout, with new E46 M3 external 5bar FPR mounted in the engine bay. Steering and Suspension; Z3 Steering rack, New tie rod arms XYZ Coil over suspension, 450/670 spring rates Rear Powerflex trailarm bushes, Subframe mounts New rear handbrake shoes New rear UUC OEM E30 brakes, Hawk Pads UUC E30 BBK in the front, 300mm rotors, Hawk pads Braided brake lines Body and interior; Lachsilber original paint, cleans up very well but has some small dings and scratches, notable the front and rear bumpers have some scuffing and paint damage. Genuine Mtech 2 kit Recaro cloth interior Illuminated 6 speed M shifter, E36 Window switches M Sport button Genuine 16' ACS Wheels I'm going to start quite high, I really can't put a price on all the money I've put into this and the list above is no way near complete. I have tonnes of receipts totaling stupid amounts of money for the swap. If you are serious, flick me a PM and we can talk. 25k ono, to get the ball rolling. And yes I'm asking 'e46 m3' money, but this E30 is something else
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Purchased her 4 years ago as a project, didn't even have my license yet, got her (and me) road legal, currently replacing the engine, still keeping with a m20b20 as the old motor had some crash damage and this is my first time doing a engine swap, wanted an easy swap as a first time. Lowered and new shocks, in the middle of swapping the 45mm front struts to the 51mm struts, just waiting on new strut tops before I can finish the swap. Wanting to ITB and turbo when funds allow.
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I'm doing a manual conversion on my m20b20, decided to go for a g260. I was wondering if anyone could link me a video or a write on a manual conversion on a RHD e30 as all the ones that i have found are for LHD. Im sure they aren't too different. From all the write ups and videos i've seen they use the brake fluid reservoir to bleed the clutch but for LHD there is a seperate clutch fluid reservoir which has a soft line to the master cylinder? If there aren't any write ups can someone please give me a detailed explanation or directions. Thank you.
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I'm after a leather rear seat for an e30 sedan. Preferably black but open to any colour.
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Unfortunately it looks like I'm unable to complete my project due to a job move overseas next year. As it sits I'm taking interest on the rolling body first. Buyer will then have first dibs on all parts from there on. Everything else will be parted out. The car is tidy overall and has had the majority of rust work cut out. Spare panels are provided to repair - as pictured in my build thread. Rolling body includes: Reg on hold Power front windows Pop out rear windows No Sunroof (slick top) Complete body as pictured 14" basketweaves Lowered springs all round All interior except carpet and front seats Spare boot lining pieces Was a full running / driving car before pulling the engine out Even had A/C (parts included) Doesn't include: Engine, box Steering rack Front Seats Front carpet Not in a huge rush to sell and will continue to be worked on Car does have M54B30 engine and gearbox in it at the moment which will be removed before sale.
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Hi there, looking for some advice on the go to first maintenance bits to do on a car that has been stored for a decade in a garage, it has been run and driven occasionally (total 500km). What are the first things to get done and tackle. Any advice greatly appreciated! Cheers
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Hi all, I’ve just acquired a mint automatic E30 318 facelift coupe with a very ticky M40 and am wanting to swap in a m42 and Getrag 240 out of an E36 318. I understand the engine and gearbox bolt up to the M40 engine mounts/arms and I can use the loom and ECU from the E36. My question is regarding the prop-shaft and diff – Will either the e30 or e36 prop-shaft bolt in or will I need to source an E30 manual prop-shaft and am I correct in assuming that the E36 diff would be preferable? I’ve also read that I will need a E30is (M42) exhaust manifold – can anyone confirm if this is the case? I am also looking to do a coil on plug conversion from an M52, a AFM to MAF Conversion from an M44 and a single mass flywheel from an M20 as well as some sort of chip which is yet to be decided. If anyone has done this conversion and can offer some advice or knows of a donor car for sale that would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Shaun.
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I have moved to the great big country of Europe where owning cars is expensive and daily driving classics seems to be "not done". So I've come to the point where, still having 3 cars in the Homeland is maybe not the best option for me right now. So here for sale is my 1987 320i. It's manual, and coupe and is NZ new. It's got a bit of wear and tear, but then again it's a BMW from the 80s so we can't expect everything. Most notable being the sunroof (comes with a spare), shifter bushing, seats and a spot of rust near the taillights. It's for sale on trademe for $7500: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-2206179000.htm I'll say 7200 Ono for the good folks on here but any offers considered. (If you think my price is crazy and outrageous please tell me I have no idea how to price this thing. I priced it as the cheapest manual coupe but maybe that logic is wrong?) Also for sale a half decent e34 525i with the head (m20b25 head reconditioned) off for like 500 bucks, gotta get this thing outta my parents' backyard. Comes with a free bow and arrow and receipts for the head work. If anyone wants some pics of either cars just send a response so I know I've got some interest. Cheers
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With reluctance I am putting my E30 M3 up for sale. It required some work to be made road legal and I dont have the time or cash to commit to it. So - M3, the car that BMW perfected the art of producing a homologation special. 2.3, 1989 European specification. Type code AK05. This is a 215hp non cat variant, chassis number WBSAK050570AE40925 It started life in Germany and after about 10 years moved to UK. It was de registered and moved to Portugal where it was used as a track day car. It was imported to NZ and has only done a handful of miles in the last 9 years. Odometer 250,905 km. Still on UK plates it will need compliance to be registered in NZ This car does required some work to get it back to its M3 glory. It has the headlining and carpet removed. It is missing some interior parts in boot. There is some rust in the left inner guard and number plate lights. Non standard exhaust, missing fog lights. Otherwise it is very original, unmolested example of the best version that is not an Evo. Sits on Evo 2 16 inch wheels. No evidence of repairs except strengthening front anti roll bar mounts on chassis rails. As it is not road legal test drives are restricted. If you know what an E30 M3 is, and have $55,000, then please message me. Location south Auckland. The only swap that is of interest is cash. This is an opportunity to own a real M3 with some work, and price reflects that. Comes with some required spares such as door cards, sunroof, boot interior that have been collected over the last 9 years.
