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Found 247 results

  1. Hey team. My 325i died on Friday night (some people might have seen me at Pak n Save getting towed haha). Did quick diagnostics while I was waiting for tow truck to come. Cranking forever and not starting. Funny enough I’ve already replaced fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator and other normal maintenance items so I’ve scratching my head. Got it towed back home, yesterday morning I’ve checked the usual things as it follows… All relays working. Fuse and relay for fuel pump is getting power while cranking as well as at connector end. I added direct power to the pump and I can hear the pump moving. Checked the fuel filter and it wasn’t the dirtiest as I’ve replaced about 1 year ago. But did some rust came out. So put everything connected again and disconnected the fuel hose to the regulator and injector rail, fuel not getting to the engine. So took out the pump again and this time I dipped in the fuel in the bucket and added the power directly, the pump motor moved but guess what, it’s back flowing from where inlet supposed to suck in the fuel to the outlet, this point I believe the fuel pump is damaged somewhat and I think bit of rust in the tank is the problem. I’ve already ordered the pump so hopefully I can at least test to see if anything else is the issue but meantime just wanted to see how you clean the tank inside. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks team.
  2. TJE28

    E30 M325i Coupe

    E30 M325i Coupe Mtech 1 NZ New. 2 owners Selling on behalf ,Cousins Car who has moved to Australia. Price 25k Car has been in auckland majority of its life and serviced with parnell motors. 220km near new Leather interior Mtech 2 front and rear bumpers. Fresh wof, rego and service before sale. car was posted up here last year I've had it in storage and tiding up bits and pieces for wof which it now has. Drives great, sounds great, priced according to condition and kms. would love to own this myself but am moving to a place with less storage. so she's got to go. Car in Tauranga contact Tim 0223509077 for more information. up for a week before Trademe.
  3. Hi, I will be listing this elsewhere shortly, however I thought I’d put it into the forum first - more photos to come or you can reach me on 02102756544 1990 BMW e30 325i SE / Factory Manual - 82,000 miles - $25,000 - Imported form the UK in 1995 In my 4 years of ownerships it has had all servicing work done by Apex Auto - injectors, fuel pump, brakes all round, cambelt, etc I would consider swaps/trades for high mileage e46 M3…. **plate not included
  4. I am swapping my M52 motor into my E30 and was wondering if I could also swap the suspension too. I know the rear should fit just fine but as far as I've seen nobody makes front tophats to fit E36 coilovers. Is there anyone who has done what I am talking about to their E30? If so how did you do it and does anyone know of a company that might sell what I need? Any help is appreciated, thank you!
  5. As we're always making it easier for our customers - we've compiled a "quick reference guide' of our SKU numbers for members - focusing on earlier, mostly E30 Parts we can supply. This can make things easier for members when calling us, or emailing us about parts. As always, 15% discount applies to Bimmersport members (mention 'Bimmersport' when enquiring!) It can be downloaded from our website link, below: https://www.euroitalianparts.com/e30-bmw-classic
  6. Hi team. It’s time for me to start attacking on maintenance/repairs on my E30. Long story short, my heater core valve (or water valve, whatever it’s called) gave up couple of weeks ago, decided to go over and replace what I should be replacing for the cooling system. I’ve just replaced the radiator, heater core, heater core valve, new o rings for fitting, 2 temperature sensors on top of the thermostat housing, expansion tank and level sensor. Please note that I’ll do the water pump and timing belt at the same time soon. Thermostat is less than 1 year old and all parts are OEM from FCP Euro. Have bled the system multiple times with front of the engine up on jack stands, and it seemed that I didn’t overheat the engine which is good relief, no leaking. However, there’s little cold to warm air from the vent at full hot setting. I’m getting hot at upper and lower heater core pipes, and the heater core of course is getting hot, all other coolant hoses are hot as well. The other things I’ve noticed was the temperature gauge on dash is now 1/4 to 2/3 towards coldest mark, which indicating that the it’s not getting at full operational temperature. I have gone for test drive for good 4 hours today, still no sign of overheating but the gauge never got in the middle, and no change of heater bringing hot air. It’s staying like warm to cold. I have spare old thermostat which I’ll swap them over and see if it changes anything but I doubt it. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  7. 1989 E30 325i MTech 2 Super fun car to drive always turns heads Wof and Rego. The coupe features the following: - M20b28 stoker built by Ray at HellBM -Genuine Mtech2 body kit - Getrag 260 gearbox - Racing exhaust headers - New shifter linkage bushings (Garagistic delrin) - 17’ Alpina style wheels - Smiley headlights - Bilstein suspension - LSD - New Cambelt & Water pump - New ancillary belts - Bluetooth and handsfree head deck - Premium rear speakers (rare) - Sports seats - Map light - Shadow line - Alarm and Immobiliser (few spare keys) - Oem front tweater pods - Slick top roof (no common rusty sunroof issues) - Personalized Euro plate - Electric front windows, rear pop-out windows (functioning) Please note that this car has been re shelled into a rust free body (prior to my ownership) Priced accordingly. As expected with a car this age it does have a few minor imperfections (cometic) few tears on front seats, paint fade on the roof, clear coat peal on the spoiler, would not require too much to get it to show car standard. This coupe has been an absolute joy to own and has severed as a reliable daily, always ran on 98 octane. Hoping someone will continue to appreciate and enjoy this great classic! $30,000 Proof of funds required prior to test drives. Located in Pukekohe
  8. Just after some very good condition ones due to mine falling apart and failing to “click”. Cheers Sam
  9. Hi team. Recently got a very tidy E30 LHD 2 door sedan 325i Mtech2 (m20b25). Of couse it comes with issues and here goes haha... When starting the engine, it starts on the first go fine whether it is cold or hot, but dies within 5 - 10 seconds after. Key off again and switches back on, starts fine and doesn't die from there. Things I've already done on this car... New fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel hoses around the pump and fuel filter. New fuel pressure regulator. New idle control valve. New spark plugs. (Coils/HT leads/Distributor/Rotors are less than 2 years old and checked fine) I also put the total system cleaner through fuel tank and did make better and so far starts and runs fine on the first go. I'm thinking maybe the injectors are leaking as I can smell bit of fuel around the engine bay (not all the time). Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  10. New unused, performance cam for M20 application. New Shrick 284/272 camshaft New Shrick sport spring set Purchased from Germany for further details on spec https://www.bimmerworld.com/Engine/Camshafts/Schrick-Performance-Camshaft-E30-325i-E34-525i-M20-284.html $1200
  11. We are not a "new" member here, but notifying all members of our new contact details: We are still happy to sponsor Bimmersport members who mention the forum, and will receive a 15% discount on all in-store items. For those who don't know, Gavin retired earlier this year, and I (Rodney) took over, and look forward to assisting Bimmersport members and meeting some of you. Hence, we have rebranded, and have become even more BMW-focused, especially catering to older E30, E28, E36 models. Our new email address is: parts@euroitalian.co.nz . Some members may be using the older emails for Gavin, which are now inactive - but we're still around! We are also now on Instagram and Facebook - and also have a new website: www.euroitalianparts.com. Our phone and address is the same: 09 444 9817 / 15C Saturn Place, Rosedale, Auckland 0632. You can also text/WhatsApp me direct on +64 27 446 6547.
  12. Hello team , anyone with a spare set of e30 325i stst headers for sale ? thank you Ric
  13. Looking to buy a m20b25 block. not too worried on KMS, bottom end required only preferably without crank, rods and pistons. Located in ALK happy to cover freight cost for the right block.
  14. Have a full getrag 260 manual conversion for sale, out of an e30 $2750 or offers. Based in wellington any questions please ask gearbox driveshafts pedal box master and slave cylinder clutch, pressure plate, flywheel shifter linkages cross member
  15. I think I got this from Garagistic from memory however once I lowered my car I figured any lower was going to become impractical so never fitted it. . Located in Wellington. Would rather pick up but I'm sure i can wrangle some cardboard to ship at buyers risk. (NB: No hardware, just the lip itself. But as oer Andy's write up, you want stainless hardware) Andy did a great write up on how to install here:
  16. Hey team, Looking to buy a manual pedal box. please message me a price/location happy to cover freight.
  17. Hi guys, I'm after some e30 sports seats in any condition and preferably closer to akl. Thanks
  18. Looking to buy a manual pedal box, to going into an E30. located in AKL, happy to cover freight if anyone has one outside of Auckland.
  19. Most affordable e30 on the market right now. Drivetrain might need some work but otherwise seems nice and tidy with some tasteful mods. https://www.trademe.co.nz/3456420351
  20. Just getting the feelers out there. considering selling a project. Complete set of rare genuine Hartge Japan 16" x 7.5j with centre caps 4x100 et 15, perfect for E30 fitment hub centric . The lips have been machined off and thrown out, to allow for a 2/3 piece design. Wheels will come with centre caps and mounting hardware. Will need new 16" lips perfect set for a custom 2 or 3 piece build. Perfect wheel for the e30 and are now getting increasingly hard to find! Pm for genuine interests only. Offers north of $2000
  21. Time to do some more maintenance for now on the car, which means fluids! What are people’s recommendations for fluids for a m52+zf swapped e30 - Brake fluid - Engine oil + filter. Tossing up between the 20L Penrite HPR 5w-40 or racing 10w-40 (couldn’t find any non-racing 10w-40) - Coolant (already replaced it but keen to know what people think) - Transmission oil (probably not needed but keen to hear people’s thoughts) - Diff oil?? - Any others that I’m missing, fluid-wise but also for maintenance? (Won’t be replacing gaskets until the car gets stripped for panel + paint. Will also be doing a cooling overhaul at that point.) Cheers!
  22. Does anyone have a link or know how to remove this hole unit?
  23. Not sure if you’ve seen my endless posts about hunting down a car, which started with an e36 and somehow got diverted to an e30. Finally bit the bullet with what may actually be a bit of a 🍋 in hindsight 😅 (I’ll explain later). A bit about the car first. She started her life in the land of the rising sun in 1988 as a 320i coupe in alpine white and migrated to the land of the long white cloud in 1997. It’s had extensive service history that I can see up until October 2018 when a m52b28 + 5spd (haven’t jacked up yet so don’t know what box) found its way in the engine bay. On viewing and a quick test drive: Pros: - Mechanically sounded and felt well: quick turnover on a cold start, idled well, power felt fine, no knocks or ticking, transmission was smooth. - Wof, reg, and also certed for engine, seats, brakes, suspension - Pretty straight body. Doesn’t look like it’s been in an accident at all. - Central locking with an immobiliser - 2dr and a slick top Cons: - Has the usual e30 imperfections: some rust / corrosion in the common spots (except for the passenger door which may end up being pandora’s box), cracked dash, and paint fade - Wiring’s a bit of a mess in the engine bay and under the driver’s dash - AC deleted - Windows only go up/down if a door is open (some problem with the wiring from the alarm apparently) After some thinking and asking around, I decided to just go for it so I bought it. Picked it up yesterday and that’s where we get to the to the potential lemon part. After a few stops and a bit of time driving around the tron (got some kai, gas, and pumped up tyres), my mate and I noticed a bit of white smoke coming out of the exhaust that kept going (noticed it when I first viewed it 1-2 weeks ago but thought it was just the cold and picked it up late arvo/evening yesterday so initially thought it was also just the cold). By this point we needed to top up the oil as it was sitting low so did that and after a few mins it went away. On the drive back my mate couldn’t tell whether or not smoke was coming out of the engine while driving (I drove the other car) but had his eyes on the temp gauge, which didn’t move. In saying that, we made it back to Auckland with no issues, even with a few moments of ‘spirited’ driving, and had no smoke coming from the engine bay when he was parking it at my place. Another worry is that this morning, I saw that the radiator had been slowly leaking coolant, at least overnight (see video below, have also put pictures of the oil cap, and the coolant reservoir cap) So it looks like the urgent things to do: - New rad (any recommendations?) - Get it to a mechanic to test if the head gasket’s blown I’ll take some photos of the car when I finish getting over the fact that I may have made such a dumb decision 😂. Cheers IMG_1161.MOV
  24. Does anyone know the fitment of a M20 gearbox to a M52b25? Car in question is an E36 323i I've tried searching and I'm sure that its been discussed a lot before however the general consensus from what I have seen online is that an M20 will bolt up to an M52 however will need to have custom mounts made due it it sitting on an angle? I am unsure whether my current clutch or driveshaft would fit. Reason for M20 box (please correct me if I'm wrong {probably am}) is that there seem to be a lot more of them around and they are a lot cheaper than E36 box's which are slightly different? from my understanding. I very much appreciate any responses on here as my current box G220 (If I've identified it correctly) has decided it doesn't really want to be a gearbox anymore and the only box's (or rebuild cost) I have seen is $3500 and up.
  25. Hey guys, was wondering if anyone around has done a 5 lug swap on a e30 318i? I'm aware the 318i came with drum brakes in the rear. I think this is going to be the cheapest way to upgrade all the brakes for certification, as the e30 I am looking at buying has a pretty hefty engine conversion. What I'm hoping for is some way to do it with parts I can find at a local pick-a-part or similar (e36, e46 parts). Should I just take the entire rear assembly from an e36 and mix and match parts from the e30 or? I'm aware theres a bunch of ways to do it from having a look on the net but I'm not sure any of them work with the rear drum brakes on the 318i. I could go the route of purchasing a big brake kit for the certification but that costs like $1200 just for the front OR rear. Im happy to spend about that to do front AND rear. If anyone could give me some guidance (i.e. parts list, etc) that would be super helpful. Cheers.
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