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Showing results for tags 'e30'.
Found 247 results
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Looking to buy an engine & gearbox for E30 M325i. Preferably after: M20B25 Ideally the engine will be good enough to drop in and wire up, also don't mind refreshing gaskets.Require Loom and Ecu Also interested in stroker variants (2.7,2.8,2.9). Getrag 260 gearbox. Located in AKL willing to travel for the right setup.
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Hello friends, I have been having some starting issues with my E30 for the last little while. Here are the following symptoms, and a little update at the end from today which might narrow things down. Please have a look below and let me know what you think it might be: Engine needs to crank for like 5+ seconds with my foot 30% on the accelerator before it is able to start Only marginally better when the engine is warm A whole bunch of very fuelly smoke comes out from the exhaust when it starts (exhaust smoke looks and smells "regular" after driving a while though) Engine can sputter slightly for maybe 1-2 seconds when gently accelerating from stand still When moving slowly in crawling traffic, sometimes can hear motor revs slightly modulating/pulsing, going up and down Rough idle When 3-point-turning into parking spot, during the 2nd turn when the car changes direction from fwd/back with low revs, very rarely the engine can die/stall out Fuel economy is pretty poor. Went very roughly 400km on a 60L tank of fuel, so around 15L/100km. I haven't driven my E30 in a long while but I remember 10-12L/100km as a ballpark economy figure Now for the potentially informative clue today: I had a feeling my issues are fuel related, so I swapped out my fuel filter this afternoon as it was long overdue. Following a youtube guide, I took out the fuel pump relay and started the car. Without the pump the car quickly clears out the fuel in the line so I'm not drenched when I take off the old filter. After taking the old one out (and getting slightly drenched in the residual fuel) and putting the new one in, the lines are obviously very empty of fuel prior to starting the engine. Turning the key and expecting another 5+ second beating before it starts, I was ecstatic when the engine started 2nd crank! No staring issues at all! I ran it for about 10 seconds and switched it off. Attempt number 2 was also very smooth and successful! I drove to the petrol station with the hugest grin, beaming!! My long term problem was finally fixed!! However, after a 5min drive and a refuel, the engine was back to it's old 5+ crank battle from before. Same with the slight sputter when gently accelerating. TLDR and my amateur thoughts: Something is causing my car to inject waaaayy too much fuel when starting? (Potentially just all the time). Car struggles to start for ages and when it finally does there is a big cloud of fuelly smoke. When I emptied the fuel lines today the car started no problem. But after driving around perhaps the lines are filled again and the car gets too much fuel again to start easily? Does this sound like something you know? Would greatly appreciate any hints and tips. My precious E30 has been a bit of a concern for a while, and now I'm commuting again it's something I'd like to iron out asap. Cheers in advance for the help guys! 😄 Edit: My car also had this weird additional hose sticking out into the air. I'm pointing at it on the right. The photos are looking up into the bottom of the car. This hose wasn't in the E30 video I watched. But I read somewhere the larger fuel tanks have an additional line or something?
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Looking at getting the umnitza project30s for my e30, anyone else have these? What's your experience with them? Cheers.
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Actuator seized up and the passenger door no longer unlocks. I managed to finally take it out, free it up and lubricated it, but after a few weeks working it has seized again, so I guess it's time to look for a replacement. If you can point me to somewhere that might have one that would be great too, otherwise it's eBay o'clock for me. Cheers!
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Hello dear bimmersport community members! I have been overseas for the last few years and have recently moved back to NZ to be reunited with my sweet, sweet car. Unfortunately over these years the plastic rear window has finally given up, and the stitching around it has begun to disintegrate. I am looking at replacement roofs (rooves?) from overseas and have been looking at online guides on how to do it. But before I go ahead and bite the bullet, I was wondering if anyone can recommend a local place to go? Would be good to get some context on pricing to see whether or not importing one from overseas is the right thing to do. It can be to buy a roof itself, get someone to replace just the window, the whole thing, etc... I am pretty open to suggestions. Thanks all for your time and help 😊
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Hey guys and gals, looking for a manual coupe either 318i or 325i preferably. Non sunroof as well. Located Auckland. Cheers
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Hey does anyone have any recommendations on where i could get some engine mounts to fit a M30 into my e30? I Have contacted Garagisitics and there mounts are all sold out, (no sign of restock). I know there are a couple of other alternatives overseas however thought id try my luck in NZ before Ii order internationally.
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https://youtu.be/qWduC7g8zLg I've been watching a lot of older ATCC footage and enjoy watching the 325i Tony Longhurst raced, I've been told one JPS 325i is in Australia and the other is in New Zealand both racing in Historic Touring Car classes, which one is which?
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Morning Team. Having a nightmare trying to figure out why this lady will not start.. 1991 e30 with an 89 e34 535i m30. I finished the swap about a month ago and got it started for 1-2 mins before my buddie played with the throttle to try and get it to idle lower... In doing so we heard a fairly loud plastic tick/crack and the motor died.. After we could not get it to start and put it down to a broken tps... From there I have done a 3 wire tps swap (auto to manual) and setup all the other wires as needed. I have run a multi meter across the tps and am getting the correct voltage and continuity between the pins as per the Bentley manual... I have pulled the plugs and have spark on all cylinders as well as fuel for all. Crank sensor is within 540 + - oms. I tried carby cleaner in the intake and got a cough but nothing else.. Ideas? Am I missing something simple? If anyone is keen on some cash/beers/joy rides once finished and is willing to come round and lend a hand, would be greatly apricated! I'm in east auckland. Cheers
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Hello there, I am currently on the hunt for a cheap daily. I am looking for something with current WOF and REGO ans something that won’t be needing a lot of work to maybe be a little nice. obviously needs to be running and driving. I am located in Auckland but anywhere in the north island shouldn’t be a problem. Unfortunately I am on a pretty low budget of around $3000, not really expecting something perfect at that price range so not pretty fussed about the condition as long as it meets my requirements stated above and is in dailiable condition. Looking forward to seeing what out there. Cheers, Stay safe.
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Hi all, putting the feelers out if anyone selling any Recaro LS/LX type seats, fishnet type of pos. For the lads E30 coupe for a 21st prezzy later this year, Can get some upholstery fixed if needs be, anything around? (Aucks area ish) thanks
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As per the title, looking on behalf. Wellington, Manawatu or Picton preferred but will consider other options. Thanks. EDIT: and if it's cheap/free enough would consider complete engines.
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Purchased her 4 years ago as a project, didn't even have my license yet, got her (and me) road legal, currently replacing the engine, still keeping with a m20b20 as the old motor had some crash damage and this is my first time doing a engine swap, wanted an easy swap as a first time. Lowered and new shocks, in the middle of swapping the 45mm front struts to the 51mm struts, just waiting on new strut tops before I can finish the swap. Wanting to ITB and turbo when funds allow.
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I'm after a leather rear seat for an e30 sedan. Preferably black but open to any colour.
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I'm doing a manual conversion on my m20b20, decided to go for a g260. I was wondering if anyone could link me a video or a write on a manual conversion on a RHD e30 as all the ones that i have found are for LHD. Im sure they aren't too different. From all the write ups and videos i've seen they use the brake fluid reservoir to bleed the clutch but for LHD there is a seperate clutch fluid reservoir which has a soft line to the master cylinder? If there aren't any write ups can someone please give me a detailed explanation or directions. Thank you.
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Unfortunately it looks like I'm unable to complete my project due to a job move overseas next year. As it sits I'm taking interest on the rolling body first. Buyer will then have first dibs on all parts from there on. Everything else will be parted out. The car is tidy overall and has had the majority of rust work cut out. Spare panels are provided to repair - as pictured in my build thread. Rolling body includes: Reg on hold Power front windows Pop out rear windows No Sunroof (slick top) Complete body as pictured 14" basketweaves Lowered springs all round All interior except carpet and front seats Spare boot lining pieces Was a full running / driving car before pulling the engine out Even had A/C (parts included) Doesn't include: Engine, box Steering rack Front Seats Front carpet Not in a huge rush to sell and will continue to be worked on Car does have M54B30 engine and gearbox in it at the moment which will be removed before sale.
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Hi there, looking for some advice on the go to first maintenance bits to do on a car that has been stored for a decade in a garage, it has been run and driven occasionally (total 500km). What are the first things to get done and tackle. Any advice greatly appreciated! Cheers
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I have moved to the great big country of Europe where owning cars is expensive and daily driving classics seems to be "not done". So I've come to the point where, still having 3 cars in the Homeland is maybe not the best option for me right now. So here for sale is my 1987 320i. It's manual, and coupe and is NZ new. It's got a bit of wear and tear, but then again it's a BMW from the 80s so we can't expect everything. Most notable being the sunroof (comes with a spare), shifter bushing, seats and a spot of rust near the taillights. It's for sale on trademe for $7500: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-2206179000.htm I'll say 7200 Ono for the good folks on here but any offers considered. (If you think my price is crazy and outrageous please tell me I have no idea how to price this thing. I priced it as the cheapest manual coupe but maybe that logic is wrong?) Also for sale a half decent e34 525i with the head (m20b25 head reconditioned) off for like 500 bucks, gotta get this thing outta my parents' backyard. Comes with a free bow and arrow and receipts for the head work. If anyone wants some pics of either cars just send a response so I know I've got some interest. Cheers
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With reluctance I am putting my E30 M3 up for sale. It required some work to be made road legal and I dont have the time or cash to commit to it. So - M3, the car that BMW perfected the art of producing a homologation special. 2.3, 1989 European specification. Type code AK05. This is a 215hp non cat variant, chassis number WBSAK050570AE40925 It started life in Germany and after about 10 years moved to UK. It was de registered and moved to Portugal where it was used as a track day car. It was imported to NZ and has only done a handful of miles in the last 9 years. Odometer 250,905 km. Still on UK plates it will need compliance to be registered in NZ This car does required some work to get it back to its M3 glory. It has the headlining and carpet removed. It is missing some interior parts in boot. There is some rust in the left inner guard and number plate lights. Non standard exhaust, missing fog lights. Otherwise it is very original, unmolested example of the best version that is not an Evo. Sits on Evo 2 16 inch wheels. No evidence of repairs except strengthening front anti roll bar mounts on chassis rails. As it is not road legal test drives are restricted. If you know what an E30 M3 is, and have $55,000, then please message me. Location south Auckland. The only swap that is of interest is cash. This is an opportunity to own a real M3 with some work, and price reflects that. Comes with some required spares such as door cards, sunroof, boot interior that have been collected over the last 9 years.
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Some original e30 rear speakers in gray, looks to be in very good condition for there age. Both worked beautifully before they were pulled out for more doof doof (Do not recommend this) Also one Blaupunkt Quadro Booster, I am assuming its the amp for the premium speaker package for the e30's Looks to be in good condition and worked before removal (again for the doof doof) Looking for $100 Cheers Sam
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Hi everyone I’m looking for a set of 15inch basketweaves with or without tyres. The closer to Auckland the better. Am I able to source them online somewhere? If so where? Any help will be appreciated Thanks
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Don't skimp on safety, get yourself a proper set of matched springs and shocks for your E30 ? Will lower your car 2.1" in the front and 1.7" in the rear according to H&R: http://www.hrsprings.com/…/sear…/resultsbymake/4/Suspension/ Last photo shows how low my cabrio sits with them installed. Please note the cabrio has slightly lower sills than the other body types, but the guard fitment will be exactly the same for your car. Located North Shore, Auckland $1000 ONO
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Looking for a tidy E30 Facelift Coupe. Prefer a Mtech2 but will consider a 325i. Not looking for anything that has been heavily modified. Cheers
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Negative rear toe: I rebuilt the rear end on the E30 with new OEM trailing arm bushes, poly sub-frame and diff bushes. I also added a whiteline 16mm sway bar. It already sits on Bilstein shocks and springs lowered 30mm, although I’ve used additional 5mm spring pads to help clear the 16” wheels. So I took it in for wheel alignment and I have negative toe 3.5mm LH and 5mm RH. Excessive front LH camber: To complicate things there was excessive camber up front and regularly bottoming out. Thicker spring pads, new strut mounts and control arm bushes has sorted out the RH but LH is still a problem. I had a good look but nothing appears to be bent and shut lines and panels look straight.. Is it possible that the shaft in the shock is running untrue and needs rebuilding? Or any other ideas on what be going on? Comments and advice appreciated.
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https://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=1802815321&tm=email&et=45&mt=2A1A6709-5791-44E1-AFDB-C46190AEDD43 E30 with 330 manual conversion, built as father son project that got away on spec and cost. Sounds like a fun car but it would be almost dangerous in the wet if you weren't a skilled driver.
