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Found 11 results

  1. Renaming this thread as I should probably discuss everything... I need to refresh all of my suspension components. I'm thinking along the lines of OEM+/M5 spec. I'm thinking of purchasing the garagistic adjustable subframe kit to install on my M535i subframe (and then install that in my 525e). Has anyone had any experience with these or similar kits? https://store.garagistic.com/bmw-performance-parts/bmw-5-series-parts/Garagistic-e38-bmw-bushings-parts/Complete-camber-toe-correction-kit
  2. eliongater

    85 525e First car

    So I bought my first car on the week end, but it needs a bit of work... It's a 1985 Bronzit 525e that is half way through a manual swap, it's got manual windows and sunroof but that just means less things to break (I hope). It's a bit of a mess at the moment, most of the center console is taken apart and there is no gearbox or driveshaft in it. The previous owner has done most of the electronics and put the pedal box in.
  3. eliongater

    E28 Dilemma

    So I'm at a bit of an impasse with what to do with my E28s, specifically my M535i. It's an ex-UK car. It's got surface rust in most places, a dent in the sill, wavy floors, cracked seat base and structural rust in the following places: All 4 corners of the sills, including jacking points falling off Foot wells Windscreen surrounds front and rear (including a hole in the roof in the rear wind screen seal mount) Boot seal Spare wheel well Door hinges Rear arches, including where they meet the sill Where the right sill joins the floor Tail light mounts Corners of the boot As far as I see it, I have 5 options Sell both E28s and buy something modern and troublesome, like an M3/5 Spend a lot of money with a panel beater to get it fixed. I'm guessing at least $10k and then some Re-shell it into my 525e Buy another M30 shell (not so keen on this one as most E28s are pretty rusty now) Buy another M535i Option 3, whilst it kinda breaks my heart pulling apart a fairly original 525e, I can do for next to no cost and in fact selling off the lower spec parts would pay for the cert. Plus it's still "my first car" then. (Oh and black plates FTW) A re-shell also allows me to have full creative license without feeling like a heathen. (Pfeba front lip, BBS boot spoiler, Mtech flares, worked M90 with ITBs, whatever else I feel like) Thoughts?
  4. eliongater

    1985 525e

    Time to get realistic about selling my e28. I'll update this as things come to mind. As much as it pains me, I need to sell this, as it doesn't quite fulfill what I want from a daily or a weekend car (IE. jack of all, master of none. Not sensible enough for a daily, not silly enough for a weekender). Also it should be keep original, which again doesn't fit with my OEM+ end goal for my cars. If I had the space I would keep it, but I don't so it needs to find a new loving home. I have several spare parts that I can include via negotiation (I still have another E28), including a spare getrag 260 (needs some attention, won't go into 5th) Asking $7.5k ono (fairly hard to value) Project thread here: Car jam here: https://carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=mo9445 Facts: Fresh WOF and Reg last month Converted to manual with a getrag 260 (started by PO) 162XXXKms Bronzitbeige Metallic Perlbeige interior 3.64 medium case diff rear sway bar (my understanding is 525e's didn't have them factory) Manual sunroof that works NZ New Pros: Low KM, mostly original, quite tidy Classic black plates Incredibly tidy interior for it's age, no rips or tears Hasn't left me stranded (unlike my E46 haha) Central looking works perfectly Cons: Clear coat is a bit sad in places Some scratches and dents, character if you like Rust on bonnet vents, sunroof, some on the doors (these are all "they all do that"), comparatively it's low rust Input shaft bearing (well at least that's my diagnosis) quite loud under load. ICV doesn't really work, I assume it did at one point though Needs the correct thermostat housing for the dash temp gauge plug Work done within the last 2000km: Fuel filter and some fuel line Oil filter Oil change Fresh coolant Air filter Intake elbow Tail light gaskets Transmission mounts Transmission output shaft and selector seals Redline MTL Valve adjustment New spark plugs 1 tyre Front sway bar links Battery Accessory belts (both) Rocker cover gasket (to be installed) Lower rubber shifter boot Clutch fork pivot pin Clutch Slave cylinder Heavy duty clutch Throw out bearing Pilot bearing Resurfaced single mass flywheel Various shifter bushes Ignition switch (brand new, but US model so no fancy indicator park lights, could be modded back in)
  5. Genuine Momo steering wheel boss kit for late type E28 and E30s. Should also fit E34, possible E36 etc as to my knowledge the steering wheels interchange (though this could be a case like my diff so do your own research). Model number 2006. $80. Pickup from Panmure or can post for $10 (non rural).
  6. M M

    FS: E28 AP Lowering Springs

    AP Suspension 40/30mm lowering springs for E28. Less than 2 years old. Rears have had one coil cut to even out the height as the back sat too high as they were. They are still fully captive on stock length shocks and seat properly, once installed it is impossible to tell this has been done as it's one of the dead coils at the top and rests against the rubber pad in the top mount. $200. Pickup from Panmure, Auckland or can post at buyer's expense. How my car sat with them (with M30 bear in mind)
  7. eliongater

    E28 exhaust options

    I've isolated the source of my disappointment. The rear (aftermarket) muffler on my 525e is, positively depressing. It sounds terrible, doesn't fit perfectly enough for me, rattles and looks less than ideal. This needs fixing. I've taken it off, and it sounds amazing without a rear muffler. However it has the occasional nasty vibration and is according to my phone, too loud. But man it sounds good (even for a lowly eta). So I'd like something that retains the character of a straight pipe, but lowers the volume and returns the touch of class a classic BMW should have. And some nice tips wouldn't go amiss either (got a swanky hartge dual to oval tip I'd like to try). I'm happy to buy individual parts and design/weld/asssemble any pipe work.
  8. The motor and gearbox are now out of my e28 1984 525e and are for sale. Motor includes everything attached in the photos including loom and ECU. Essentially complete. Loom has been cut at c101 plug but otherwise intact. Gearbox is the 525e Getrag 260/5 and includes flywheel with correct TDC mark, sensors, clutch and pressure plate (some meat left but I would recommend getting a new one), full shifter assembly (some parts no pictures) and clutch slave cylinder and rubber line. To do a manual conversion, you would additionally need the clutch hardline, pedal box/clutch pedal, clutch master cylinder, reservoir (I have one of these I can throw in) and driveshaft. Prices: $300 for complete motor, loom and ECU. $600 for gearbox and parts listed above. Pickup from Penrose.
  9. Hi everyone. Looking at buying a 525e in the middle of a manual swap and just wanted to check if it would need a cert or some special mention in insurance? I believe a bracket needs to be welded on for the shift linkage. thanks
  10. Bonto

    Little knock when cold...

    People of the world! I've noticed a bit of a knock on cold start in the morning. It is not audible inside the car once underway and once the engine is warmed up all is quiet. It's hard to pin down where it's coming from in the engine bay... but it is a knock, rather than a tap/valve gear noise, if I'm any judge. Sounds like 1/revolution. The car is an E28 525e, with the ETA 2.7. It's done 208,000kms though the previous owner/s wasn't all that big on maintenance. Starts and pulls well otherwise and there are no warning lights showing beyond the oil change schedule thingo. Any thoughts? Cheers all, Tom
  11. Hey all, The viscous fan on my e28 ETA is not engaging fully anymore so rather than replacing it I thought I might remove it and fit an electric fan instead. Has anyone done something like this / have suggestions for fitting a fan from a later model? Any thoughts on it very welcome. I'm not the most electrically literate but I think I could sort it with the right advice.. Tom