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Showing results for tags 'auto'.
Found 9 results
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Hi forum I'm interested in finding prices for a n54-n55 135i auto model diff. Or small case 335i built after 08/07 Link for info http://www.vacmotorsports.com/news/335i-and-135i-differential-faq-no-lsd-really-1483338466.html Or if any forum members can point me point me in the direction of someone that might have one. Thanks
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I'm after a M60 or M62 transmission bellhousing or stuffed transmission to use just to line up the mounting of my v8 in my project car. Ideally cheap or free.
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Hey all, Been considering buying an E30 for a few months, and I've decided to do just that. I was going to buy one today, but it got sold 2 hours before I could put an offer in! I'm after a 318i, with under 200,000kms, automatic, and preferably 4 doors. Thanks!
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Have around 7k... Looking for a mint 320i/325i auto with lowish kms and a little bit of history. (no red cars sorry) As stock as possible, Must be reg/wof Will travel for the right car. Looking for a minta, It's for a good friend and we really want to start her off in a bmw (e30 for life) , txt 0212014302 Cheers Ace
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$300 ZF 5HP-18 (A5S 310Z) Part Number: 1 219 957 From a 1993 E34 525i (M50 engine) Only 150,000kms - Can Confirm with Odometer & Carjam Good Condition - Smooth Shifting Serviced: New Filter & Gasket Torque Converter Included Can also include Trans Computer, Trans Fluid Cooler & Pipes + Shifter Mechanism & Cable if buyer wishes Was found on the following vehicles: 3' E36 (11/1989 — 07/1995) 5' E34 (01/1989 — 06/1996) Weight: 84.4 kg Shipping: North Island: $100 South Island: $200 Cheers
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Hey Guys, Selling my E46 to fund the E30 project! If youre interested you can send me a PM, or contact me through TradeMe. Whichever works for you. I would preferably like to let this car go to an enthusiast, your pride and joy going to a good home is always great! Looking for around $10,750 but its obviously negotiable. You guys probably know its value. *131,800 K's *Oil Service done Sunday 17/05/15 *2.2L Straight 6 Below are more in depth details off of TradeMe: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=889687018&ed=true I have had the car for over a year and had all the intention of keeping it for years. But unfortunately circumstances have changed due to a project needing attention, and need to sell this beauty. During my ownership I have done regular maintenance, and gone beyond that in some cases just for peace of mind. I currently drive it daily so expect the mileage to increase a little. '05 was the last year of production for the E46 sedan, it is the most refined version of the car. It’s a great car for city driving, and is equally comfortable on long journeys with ample space for luggage etc. Importantly, it is a chain driven engine so there is no need to worry about cambelts and all that jazz. Serpentine/accessory belts and tensioners were all changed last year as part of regular maintenance. M Sport version features: *M-Tech II Bodykit *M-Sport suspension *M-Sport cloth/alcantara interior *M-Sport steering wheel *M-Sport Trim (ie badges on sills, steering wheel and wheels) *Shadowline Exterior Trim Comes with extras: *Xenon headlights *Angel eyes *Black kidney and lower grille *Front speakers changed to components *3 User memory settings for seats and mirrors *Split folding rear seats, with optional ‘ski-bag’ which was seen as part of the ‘cold weather package’ from the factory *Aluminum accented interior *Tinted *Parrot Hands-free Bluetooth system installed. *Factory First-Aid Kit *Have receipts for most work done under my ownership If you have any questions feel free to ask, or alternatively you can contact me using the details given below. As for price, make an offer if you like. The price is negotiable if you are genuinely interested. Viewing is in Blockhouse Bay, Auckland." Thanks, Rohil
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I hope electrical system is the correct place to post this. Or is this more a drivetrain issue? I just bought an e36 1997 323i auto. The gearbox has Sport, Eco and Manual (snow) modes. The five speed auto will clutch up in 5th when doing over 80km/h. I'd like to get it to clutch up in other gears at lower speeds. Is this theoretically possible? Does a physical limitation prevent the clutch from engaging in any other gear than 5th? Is it wise to do so? (I do not want speculation, I want facts) What happens if the clutch is engaged and the gearbox wants to shift gears? Will it just hold the gear longer, or will it blow a valve/seal? If it is possible, how would this be done? I'm hoping there is a plug under the dash that I can hotwire two of the pins to a switch that will force the gearbox to engage the clutch. At first I thought I'd use the switch in manual mode only, but when you drop under certain speeds the box seems to drop a gear even in manual mode. Not sure if this is a safe option anymore. First gear is also inaccessible in manual mode. I'd love to be able to reprogram the gearbox to clutch up in all gears effectively making it that little bit closer to an automated manual. But I assume this is impossible. PS: If it requires dropping the gearbox out to get to something then I'm only interested in the theoretical. I only plan on keeping the car for a year or so, and that just sounds like too much work. Backstory: My previous car was a manual. I love the direct feeling a clutch gives you. This gearbox is a bit more of a slushbox than I'd like. My wife has agreed to learn to drive a manual but only if I teach her how to drive an auto first. I don't have the room (or money) for two cars at the moment. I figure that in one to two years she will be confident enough to learn to clutch and I won't have this first world problem anymore. Thanks
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Hi guys, so i see that a similar thread to this one was posted a few weeks ago on here but i thought id make my own as i have my own set of problems. The car wont start, which is next to no help for anyone who wants to help me diagnose the problem. So the car used to start occasionally in Neutral only (Auto Trans), and i thought doing it this way would be okay until even that stopped working. When we jump the battery is starts every time but the battery has been tested and it seems fine? When you turn the key you can hear the fuel priming, it just wont turn the engine over. As i said i have had the battery tested and have been told its fine, however when i jump it the car starts perfectly. And because iv been told the battery is fine i dont really want to spoend money on a new battery if the problem lays elsewhere. Could it be the starter? I have no clue, but i have been told (admittedly the person who told me that literally just had a glance) it could be the starter. This is the ONLY thing holding the car back from being my daily, i have put in a lot of work over the last few weeks these holidays getting it all nice. Once the car can start everytime no problem, itll be on the road and i cannot wait for that! Thanks for any help you guys can give me, it is much appreciated!
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My brothers just got his learners so I'm attempting to fix up my old E36 320i so he can have it for his first car. The main issue is the Japanese auto box. It's always had a fairly brutal first to second shift when cold but after some hard yards being driven (spiritedly) daily over the Rimutakas and back as my commuter, it now refuses to change from first to second unless I button off the gas completely. I think it's probably beyond a simple oil change now but I rang up Jeff Gray to see what the oil's worth regardless...Retail is about $90/L and best price through my mates garage is between $50-$70p/L. Given the above prices, it looks cheaper to find a second box with the torque converter still on it, and the liquid gold still in it... Is there an aftermarket alternative to Dexron III that will do the job properly these days?
