Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'e31'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • General
    • New Member Introductions
    • General Discussion
    • News
    • Off-Topic
    • Other European Cars
  • BMW Race Series
    • Race Series - General Discussion
    • Race Series - Technical
  • Track Days
    • Track Day Events
    • Vehicle Setup
  • Technical
    • Performance
    • Maintenance
    • Brakes, Suspension & Steering
    • Wheels & Tyres
    • Appearance
    • Audio & In Car Entertainment
    • Forced Induction & Performance Tuning
    • Electrical system
    • Interior
    • Engineering/Fabrication
  • Rides
    • Showroom
    • Videos & Sound
    • Projects
  • Marketplace
    • For Sale
    • Want to buy
    • Sponsors & Preferential Rates.
    • TradeMe discussions
  • bimmersport.co.nz
    • Forum Help and Support

Calendars

  • Bimmersport Community Calendar

Product Groups

  • Merchandise

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Interests


Name


Location


Car


Mods List


Car 2


Car 3


Race Car


Race Car Number

Found 10 results

  1. jeffbebe

    1991 E31 850i

    My new weekender and project. A pretty good starting point... Far better than I hoped for on my modest budget but I got lucky with a vendor desperate to sell before moving overseas. First thing that has to go are those ugly ass 80s exhaust tips, then a few cosmetics (msport bumpers, missing wheel cap, kerbing, etc) and some maintenance... Will start a project log soon. EDIT: Forgot to mention... For some bizarre reason it also has a towbar fitting. F*ck knows why you'd put a tow bar on one of these but someone did... And it I don't plan to keep it.
  2. Very rare set of wheels, originally an option for e31 8 series. Front 8Jx17H2 IS10 Rear 9Jx17H2 IS19 Mad lip Will polish up nicely once rattle can paint has been stripped (P.O.) Centres absent. Small inconsequential hairline crack welded for piece of mind, spun by local tyre shop who can provide report for buyer. Happy to ship at buyers risk/expense. I can’t stress how unusual these wheels are, looking to simply recover costs. Wife says too many wheels....... asking $1200
  3. Hi Guys, first post in here. I've been a fan of BMW since 1984 and have owned 6, here's my favourite so far.
  4. Right... New project, new thread. So I've picked up a 1991 E31 850i with 83K miles (approx. 134K kms) on the clock. Overall it's in above average condition. It was originally Brilliant Red but the PO had it resprayed Sapphire Black. It sits on 18" staggered M-pars. This is it on the day of purchase: I've got a lot of plans for this car which I'll try and summarise below but the ultimate goal is to completely restore it (including the original colour), upgrade to Msport body kit and convert to S62B50 with manual trans. Short term (0-6 months): Replace the foul 80s tips and overhaul the exhaust system (replacing with RS4 mufflers and resonator, high flow cats and M3 tips) Lower it by 2-3cms at the front and 1-2 at the rear Fit the correct size rear tyres (PO scrimped for sale and put a pair of Champiro 235/35/18s on there instead of 265/40s) Wheel alignment Any required maintenance (suspension, trans service, etc) Remove oversized sub and aftermarket head unit and replace with OE period head unit (and possibly wire in media link for iPod or similar Design and fabricate some cup holders for the centre console tray (essential for weekend driving - gotta have somewhere to put my glass of bubbles while cruising!) Repair headlining (it's not too bad, just a couple of loose bits so hopefully doesn't require replacing) Replace dead console bulbs (so I can actually see the buttons at night) Replace any broken/missing trim, emblems, etc Mid term (6 months - 2 years): Source genuine M-sport front bumper spoiler, rear diffuser and wing mirrors, fit and paint Either retrim leather in Lotus white or source original seat skins and door card leather for resto project (desired interior pic below) Steering wheel retrim Tints - not too dark this time, don't want it to look like an RX7 Dinan gearbox chip Sort a/c prior to summer Refurbish wheels (they're in pretty good shape, just some minor kerbing) Long term (2 years+) S62 and manual conversion Full repaint (back to original colour, see pic below) Target interior: Target exterior: Target gear box: Target power plant:
  5. As per the title, any throwing stars, turbines or even naked rims out there? Will also consider Hartge, Alpina, Ac Schnitzer or BBS in 16/17x8 (9 ok for the back), the lower the offset the better.
  6. I've been offered a servotronic hydro box and control module from a 1993 850i cheaply and thinking of retrofitting into my 91 850i. The servo steering in my E39 540i was a massive improvement over stock so I'm quite keen to give it a try. The internets suggest that the wiring harness for the control module will already exist located on the left hand side of the left hand foot well in the cabin and the hydro box should be a straight swap. Anyone done this on an older car (E32, E34, E38, E39)? Any possible pitfalls (other than the possibility the wiring doesn't exist)?
  7. So the 850i from 1989-1994 came with the 5L M70 V12 and a 4 speed ZF 4hp24 gearbox apart from a few rare 6 speed manuals. BMW produced only a very few 850ci's (in fact there were less of these than the coveted 850CSi) from 1994-1997 with the 5.4L M73 engine and a 5 speed tiptronic ZF 5hp30 (and even rarer six speed manual). While a manual conversion is very appealing it's also bloody expensive and I think a GT car really should be an auto. My 4 speed with 3.64 LSD and Wokke chips is great but I can't help thinking how much better (and faster) it would be with the 5 speed tiptronic box which are far easier and cheaper to find than a manual six speed for a V12. Fitment would be no problem but the issue - I anticipate - is going to be communication with the rest of the car since the M70 DMEs and 4hp24 EGS are non-CANBUS but the 5hp30 EGS is CANBUS. Can't find any examples of this being done online so I'm guessing it's not that easy. So my questions are: Any ideas how you could translate DME data to the EGS from an analogue signal (or whatever it is) to CANBUS, and vice versa? Could you run a parallel but independent controller for the transmission? (or would that mean you lose things like cruise control, etc) Would it ultimately be easier (albeit time consuming and expensive) to swap a complete M73 and gearbox?
  8. Anyone know where I can get a single engine mount urgently? Preferably new but could live with a good used one. My mechanic's lowered the subframe to do the Pitman arm and found one of the engine mounts is gone. The other one seems fine but if I can get two new ones reasonably priced I'll do both. EDIT: Part #22116750820. Not sure if a later M73 (850ci or E38 750) mount will fit?
  9. I'm selling my much-loved 850i. Probably the best condition 8-series in NZ. 92,000 km. Asking $20,000. Please see my Trade Me classified: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=744598760 Thanks, Richard
  10. I just got my new E31, loving it but would love it if I could stop!!! kinda helpful. I have done a little reading online about the issue and wanted to get some comments from you guys... here's the story... When I bought the car from Whangarei, I drove it back to Auckland, well most the way on the first day... the car had shocking tyres on it, warn to the max especially the front left, the car has very low km's only 116k, I was experiencing severe "shake" on the steering wheel and most of the car on the way home. i stopped at Kaiwaka and took it to Twinkle tyre and tow, ps, great guy, great service and really good pricing on tyres... (only from this experience). the car had 225-50-16 on it which were not the recommended tyres, i put on 4 new 225-55-16 tyres. when we lifted the car up, the front left wheel was "binding" the breaks were not releasing, on further inspection the left pads were very worn, basically at their limit, he suggested we replace the pads and he would order them in overnight with the tyres... I was happy to do this as he stated it is likely to be the "master cylinder" but sometimes the "calliper stuck at the end of its travel"..., when he replaced the tyres the next day he opened the calliper and it moved freely, he decided not to replace the pads then and there as he did not want me to wear out the new pads... and gave me the opportunity to buy them or leave them, great option... I set off from Kaiwaka and made it to Warkworth fairly well, no shudder or vibration ( i just did not brake...) coming into Warkworth all started heating up again and we had an issue with the shuddering again. (when hot) to get to my "mates" house in kaukapakapa we water cooled the breaks (slowly) every 5km or so and the shuddering stopped... we did have alot of break wear. in Kaukapapa we decided to change the pads, this actually fixed the problem, kinda, well its drivable I did 200k's the next day on her and the breaks did not get hot, warm but not hot. I noticed occasionally a little "braking" sensation but pumped the breaks a bit and it went away. along with a bit of a whine for the first 100km's. went for a wheel alignment on the north shore. I got filled up yesterday afternoon at the garage and heard a funny noise, like a spray of water, on inspection in the dark their was a spray of "water" just under the the master cylinder area and was spraying the fire wall, i tried to find out where is was originating buy could not see it, I had not reception on my stuid 2 degrees mobile in Waitoki, and decided to drive on "slowly" i stopped every 2 min initially and checked fluid spraying out and nothing, only leaked out when engine was off and hot. stopped on the north shore after turning off the AC on the way and their was no leak at all, and she was hot... but there was way to much water for the AC, it was hot and spraying........ confused. drove around some more no spraying on any stops and breaks still cool. (ac on) had some dinner out on the north shore, came back to Avondale (only 8min on motorway) (ac on) and when i parked up the same water sprayed out.... engine temp was never affected perfectly in the middle and the water did not seem to be coming from the engine side, but it was near the bottom and really hard to see where it was from and from underneath without jacking up the car I could see nothing. another note: power steering or steering has some play, oil is completely brown and dirty looking, on the todo list. break performance is horrible, when you pump the breaks the pedal hits a "hard" spot and the "pumped" section is soft and has not "feedback" feeling. if you push harder you can actually press the pedal to the floor (really hard) after doing that the brakes work quiet well, just a little awkward to do just before you need to stop... My thoughts are that it is the maser cylinder, is it worth repairing seals, or replacing the unit? Any ideals about my funny yellow water, that evaporates over night (guessing that means not oil... ) would power steering or break fluid evaporate? sorry for the long story, just wanted to give as much info as possible... am looking at taking it to Burgers motor works on Tuesday, they know there stuff, but wanted to know if you guys had any ideas. I think I will stop driving her until I know what the issues are. PS, BMW 850ia - 1991, 116k's, looks everything is original. thanks Vincent
×
×
  • Create New...