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Found 5 results

  1. Hi everyone. I'm trying to fix the central locking on my e39 530i year 2001. I had few issues with locking the car since when I bought it from the dealer. First of all, infrared remote key does not work at all even though after multiple attempt to re-initialize the remote key. Secondly, the physical key on driver side did not lock or unlock, the key actually did not turn on both ways. Only the central locking worked when you are inside the car just about to drive and use the central locking button. At the moment, I'm trying the conversion from infrared remote to radio frequent remote. I've made 2 new keys (radio frequent 433mhz) and have immobilizer programmed. Also replaced the antenna amplifier with 433mhz and also did the new wiring towards pin 13 of X332 and fuse 6. And the most important part of all, the driver side door key issue. I have replaced the new key housing and swapped the key cylinder. The driver side door now can lock and unlock, but does not lock and unlock the other 3 doors (central locking). Also the remote key on both infrared (x1) and radio frequent keys (x2) does not initialize with remote central locking. I can still lock and unlock all the doors from inside the car using the central locking button. And I scanned the car and here are the fault codes I've got... 2 Fuse or lead for load circuit 2 93 Central-locking drive, driver's door 94 Central-locking drive, passenger's door 1 Fuse or lead for load circuit 1 Code: 0A4100A6 no description! Code: 0A4100A7 no description! Code: 0A410091 no description! Has anyone got any idea what I can do from here? Any help or advice much appreciated! Thank you very much in advance.
  2. I have what can best be described as a clicking coming from my drivers front wheel well area. It has been getting louder in the last few weeks. it presents itself when moving off from a stand still or turning the wheels (in either direction) at a stand still or moving slow. And I’m sure I might be able to hear it when driving with the window down. But not sure. I thought it might be cured whe I replaced the rack ends, but no. Could it be wheel bearing or possibly sway bar links. I can’t seen anything obvious. Any ideas guys? @hqstu or @BreakMyWindow in your vast experience have you guys heard such a noise.
  3. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1406765129.htm "BMW 530i Individual Motorsport 2003 2003 BMW 530I Motorsport Individual Aegean Edition ,Hand Built, 300 Aegean Edition where manufactured for 2003 only , 150 petrol and 150 diesels and only sold to the Uk market in right hand drive , This is the only Aegean Edition in New-Zealand , True collectors BMW Full Service History dating all the way back to 10/04/2003 and last serviced on 11/08/2017 Was imported From The UK by the first owner in 2007 and since then it has had over $15,000 spent in Nz on services/repairs Original Owner Manuals, Original Handbooks Individual Aegean Blue (Paint Code 490) Individual Napper White Leather Interior M Parallel 18" Staggered Alloys Xenon Headlights LED halos Exterior Folding Mirrors Park Distance Control Headlamp Washer System Navigation System Professional M Sports Suspension II Bluetooth Communications Pack Rain Sensor Auto Headlights No Rush to sell , always Garaged and kept clean and tidy , No mechanical issues always Serviced and Repaired with genuine BMW parts & oils Everything works as it should! viewing is welcome but test drive only with proof of funds only issue is the badly chipped windscreen witch i just have not got around to replacing yet Open to Offers / Trades Please No silly offers" https://carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=GMD921 It's pretty, but that's a crazy price, of am I crazy? (It does have isofix though...) Vehicle information VIN WBADT62070CK19560 Type Code DT62 E Series E39 () Series 5 Type LIM Steering RL Doors 4 Engine M54 Displacement 3.00 Power 170 Drive HECK Transmission AUT Colour SONDERLACKIERUNG (490) Upholstery SONDERPOLSTERUNG (Z1XX) Prod. Date 2003-02-14 Vehicle options L812A National version Great Britain P337A M Sports package S202A Steptronic S210A Dynamic stability control S249A Multifunction f steering wheel S302A Alarm system S339A Shadow-Line S423A Floor mats, velours S428A Warning triangle and first aid kit S430A Interior/outside mirror with auto dip S431A Interior mirror with automatic-dip S434A Interior surface aluminium S441A Smoker package S470A Isofix-System S473A Armrest front S481A Sports seat S500A Headlight wipe/wash/Intensive cleaning S508A Park Distance Control (PDC) S520A Fog lights S521A Rain sensor S522A Xenon Light S534A Automatic air conditioning S555A On-board computer V with remote control S601A TV function S609A Navigation system Professional S644A Preparation f mobile phone w Bluetooth S694A Provisions for BMW 6 CD changer S705A M sports suspension II S710A M sports steering wheel, multifunction S715A M Aerodynamics package S775A Headlining anthracite S780A BMW LA wheel, M parallel spoke S785A White direction indicator lights S850A Dummy-SALAPA S853A Language version English S863A Retailer Directory Europe S877A Delete cross-pattern operation S880A On-board vehicle literature English S938A Individual series S940A special equipment BMW Individual
  4. I just got new bushings. I can take the control arms out of the car sometime next week. Is there anyone in Auckland who could press them for me? The closer to Whangaparaoa/Stanmore Bay the better, as I have limited range on the EV!
  5. Noticed this yesterday when looking under the bonnet. This frame thing seems to be cracking/brittle, which is holding that hose/pipe up. See photos. Haven't got much of a clue why it is like that, nor what the hose/pipe is, so got a few questions that maybe someone here can shed some light on. Is this a common issue? Which specific hose/pipe is that, that is being held up by that cracking frame? Is this dangerous? What would be the good way to fix this? Is the hose going to collapse and blow something up if the frame thing completely cracks open? Or does it have under support under the frame? (it seems pretty brittle atm) Need to know whether it's safe to continue driving it like that. If it does need immediate fixing - is it a wallet breaking job? Any info appreciated, cheers! :-)
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