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Found 18 results

  1. Bought my first BMW in early 2015, it was a fairly standard 320i that was converted to manual and was put on HR springs and KYB shocks with a set of replica volk wheels Used this car as my daily for about a year and did a few things to it, had plans for it but at the time i was driving it every day and it served its purpose well Put some TD144s on it had a problem with the tyres on them changed them down a sidewall thickness and put a bit of stretch and they worked well also put on a Grip Royal steering wheel on to replace the factory wheel it had and that was about the extent of the "mods" i had done to the car until the front cross member gave out on me and broke the small tab that bolts the sway bar bracket on. So at that point i decided to it was time for a M20B25 upgrade "might as well change the engine while i'm fixing this front cross member" I said and from there things spiralled out of control and what started as a 2.5 swap has now turned into a M20B25 stroker turbo build so the motor was pulled stripped everything out of the engine bay and shaved off unnecessary brackets for a nice clean look paint and rust work (leaking brake master i believe) were done at Riverlea Panel and Paint Braided clutch, fuel and brake lines being installed (some shown) Brand new Fenix radiator E36 steering rack and custom shaft wanted to go Z3 but best option at the time was e36 so went with that During all of that i picked up a used M20B25 from Auckland came from a 89 vert with 180000 ks on it but engine ran fine so guess it made sense to rebuild it lol In went a 2.7 Stroker kit 2.7 crank 135mm rods M50???? pistons can't remember what they came from now engine was sent to Cambridge Engine Services for cleaning and checking all was good so in it all went using OEM bearings, rings and gaskets down the bottom Crank scraper and sump baffle were fitted (pain in the ass with two gaskets and very tight baffle to install) Head was ported and polished by Jim at same shop new valve guides and stainless steal valves installed Head was planed just a smidge Bolted together with an Elring HG (2mm) and cap screws head fitted with brand new valve springs and retainers, a reground 272 cam, HD rockers and oversized eccentrics brand new water pump fitted Just currently needing a timing belt and tensioner which i'll pick up this week couldn't resist test fitting the manifolds and turbo when it was all torqued down lol won't be running it with the turbo straight away as it will be easier to run the motor in on the factory ECU that way i'll have the cam run in and the rings will seal really well before boost is added which will be courtesy of a Sinco manifold, front facing plenum and Master Power MPR-494 in the meantime tho just going to be using the standard intake and exhaust , intake fitted with custom fuel rail to run -6 fittings and braided lines which the whole car has been converted to (pics to come) ^ pic of the lines coming into the engine bay unsecured atm brake and clutch lines also being changed to braided lines all bushes being changed to revshift aftermarket ones offset bushes above yet to do the diff mount bush as I'm looking for a medium case diff at the moment and will be twin mounting it underneath the car shortly. E36 adapter shaft with solid aluminium centre Motor and gearbox will be going in shortly with revshift gearbox mounts and Range Rover v8 engine mounts using a spec stage 3, 6 puk clutch and lightened factory flywheel shipped for $700 from Evan at SpeedFactor will definitely be able to handle the power I'm expecting to make will be picking up some seat rails for these in the next few weeks and bolting them in (can't wait these seats are awesome) will be updating this build very soon for now peace
  2. So I bought my first car on the week end, but it needs a bit of work... It's a 1985 Bronzit 525e that is half way through a manual swap, it's got manual windows and sunroof but that just means less things to break (I hope). It's a bit of a mess at the moment, most of the center console is taken apart and there is no gearbox or driveshaft in it. The previous owner has done most of the electronics and put the pedal box in.
  3. I've isolated the source of my disappointment. The rear (aftermarket) muffler on my 525e is, positively depressing. It sounds terrible, doesn't fit perfectly enough for me, rattles and looks less than ideal. This needs fixing. I've taken it off, and it sounds amazing without a rear muffler. However it has the occasional nasty vibration and is according to my phone, too loud. But man it sounds good (even for a lowly eta). So I'd like something that retains the character of a straight pipe, but lowers the volume and returns the touch of class a classic BMW should have. And some nice tips wouldn't go amiss either (got a swanky hartge dual to oval tip I'd like to try). I'm happy to buy individual parts and design/weld/asssemble any pipe work.
  4. Hi everyone The Getrag 260 that came with my car has the wrong bellhousing on it (m30 instead of m20), so I am looking to buy either a: Getrag 260 Getrag 265 Getrag 240 Getrag 245 ZF S5-16 All with either an m20 bellhousing or removable bellhousing and either the holes for the sensors or the ability to have the holes added. Also a matching driveshaft and shift linkage would be good too. EDIT: and the cross member Thanks
  5. Getting near the end of my parts collection for 24 valve swap. I'm after the following parts: M20 driveshaft M20 flywheel M20 TOB M20 starter Recommendations of NZ suppliers for M20 clutches? EXEDY? Can potentially trade parts if you're not fussed about cash. Cheers
  6. Hi team, I'm after six standard conrods from a M20B20 or M20B23. Preferably in 130mm length. Cheers!
  7. Up for sale is my '85 E30. I'v seen the car i want and just need this gone before I can purchase the next one. Im around $4,750 but as always ONO. A quick sale, is a good sale. Details are as follows: - '85 323i NZ New (Black Plates) with 23X,XXXks on the body (dunno how long odometer wasn’t working before I fixed it) - M20B25 + Getrag 260 swap done last year, running motronic 1.3. - During the swap, headgasket, rear main seal, clutch etc were all installed new. Driveshaft UJs were all serviced & balanced - Oil change and plugs 2 weeks ago - E36 steering rack - Lowered on H&R's - Brand new tyres all round - Genuine 14" Basketweaves all round (including the spare!) - Has colour matched genuine M-Tech 1 rear, and skirts (waiting to be installed) - Rego till next June - WOF just ran out - Sub in the boot - Upgraded speakers al round - Headunit with aux input - M Stitch Handbrake and Gear boot - CUPHOLDERS! - Voltmeter - Hella headlights (with a cool light up switch) - Yellow fogs & high beams - Parking sensors (Okay, so maybe its just a towbar) - Roof racks - Oil cooler - Sunroof with manual crank - Front 2 windows have been converted to manual cranks - Rear windows are electric - Dash mat - Euro Grille - Battery relocated to the boot - 2nd internal boot light - Airhorn! - E34 'Big' tool kit - Smiley headlights - Clear coat is a bit gone on the bonnet (have a spare in red which needs a respray) - Cassette Holders - Comes with a box of spare trim pieces, clutch, new oil filter etc - Could do with a distributor and rotor change (have the parts) Tried to be honest and list as many things as I could think of. Please PM me if you have any questions at all though! Interested in an early E36 Manual Coupe with cash either way if you know of any. Located in Auckland
  8. Is there anyone in NZ that rebuilds Bosch AFMs? I have read the stuff online re bending the arms to track across the PCB over fresh material, but would prefer to use someone who does this kind of work regularly and can make sure it meets factory tolerances, settings etc. e.g. something like what this guy in US does: http://www.bavrest.com/air-flow-meters.html ​As a side question/alternative is anyone here running the latest Miller MAF for the M20 on the standard chip that comes with it? I want to keep my car pretty much stock, but a MAF tickled my interest as a logical reliability and mild performance/economy upgrade, but with no other mods on the car I don't want to shell out for a custom chip. My concern about getting a standard chip is I'm guessing it would be tuned for US octanes.
  9. M20 731 cylinder head off m20b20. Was going to make a stroker for my eta but I have a full m30 conversion now so not going that way. $100. Will put photos up later. Pickup from One Tree Hill.
  10. Interested in doing converting my m20b27 to motronic 1.1. So I need the following parts: Crank Position Sensor & Bracket Toothed crank wheel Engine bay loom Cylinder Identification Sensor Oil Level Sender Oil Pressure Switch And probably an ECU, but I haven't decided what I'm doing ECU wise yet
  11. Hi my fellow NZ'ers! I am wishing to convert my auto E34 525i with the M50B25TU (Vanos) into a manual. I am finding it difficult (not suprisingly) to find the getrag 250 + conversion kit that came standard on the late model 525i's with the M50 engine. The earlier models with the M20 engine have the getrag 240's or 260's (or zfSG310?) i believe and these seem to be more available. I've heard that the M20's gearbox bolts up perfectly to the M50 but due to the M50's tilt the box is on a 10degree tilt and therefore doesn't align with the gearbox mounts. Is anyone familiar with the process required to modify the mounts to suit the older gearbox? Or even better, if you can buy these pre-made? Oor even BETTER, does anyone have a maual conversion kit for my M50 E34? Any help will be greatly appreciated! Cheers
  12. Hi Guys, So iv got a fully dressed '87-'88 M20B25 with loom and ecu, gearbox etc all with it lined up. The only problem now is the wiring from the C101 plug which is round and has 20 pins, to my rectangular C101 on the '85 323i. I have started to create a pinout chart which ill upload later tonight, theres just a few wires i am unsure where they should go? There is scarce information about 323i's on the internet, as they were Euro spec and well you know, if its not US spec then no one on any of their forums wants to know about it. I also need a bit of help as to what will go to the C104 plug (i understand this is for the cluster side of things). There is a round connection on the bulkhead by the passenger side, i know this isnt a C101 as i have an earlier car but i was wondering what it actually is. Any wiring help would be much appreciated. Ill upload my chart so far later on. This is the first time iv done anything near this intense mechnically, but thought id try my hand at it. I havent got the engine yet but will have it in a month, so i thought its best to prepare everything now so that its easier when i have everything. The 323i L-Jet wasnt the best starting place but its what i have to work with so ill do my best to make it work. If any of you guys are around Central/West Auckland, and know about the wiring id be real keen to have some help when the engine is dropped in. i HATE electrical systems and having not much experience doesnt really help my cause. Im sure with some help i can get this done successfully, so cheers for any help you can provide me with! Also i know the connector changes around the time this engine was built, so i will check again and confirm. This will probably be the same thread i ask lots of electrical questions over the time of the swap. Thanks!
  13. Hi Guys, I need an ignition coil for my '89 325i. I have one from my '85 323i, but i cross checked the part #'s on RealOEM and they dont match, so i thought its probably best to get the right part for the job. Part # is: 12131286087 if it matters. It can be used, just as long as its working okay. The closer to Blockhouse Bay, Auckland, the better! But dont mind shipping i guess. Cheers!
  14. Hi guys, Looking for a late model M20B25 engine, that is running. Need ECU and loom and all that jazz as well. PM me if youve got anything. Cheers! Also im in Auckland so the closer the better!
  15. Hi there, So i have a '85 323i that has a tired M20B23 in it and i was looking to swap in an M20B25. I am confident doing everything EXCEPT the wiring, any tips/pointers/help on this? Also because the 323 is L-jet, what will i need to change besides the engine itself and the ECU to make it a motronic? I will be keeping the auto 4 speed for now as i know its possible but once the engine is done id put in a Getrag 260. I am not doing the swap right now, just need a bit of info on what ill need to do etc. I understand things like engine mounts etc can be used, but i will be upgrading them anyways. Reasons for staying M20 and not going M50/52 is that i have been working on the engine for a while and know my way around it reasonably okay. Parts are plentiful and information is everywhere. Its a cheap simple little engine that i can handle so hence the choice if you were wondering As always, ANY help would be much appreciated as this swap isnt covered a lot on the interweb. Thanks, Rohil
  16. Quick one for you guys, I am trying to identify the plug on the left side of this Automatic transmission, picked it up from someone who did a manual conversion a number of years ago so no chance of tracing the original plug / car. It is for an M20 , going back into an E30 that was previously manual so no plug like it. What is it, do I need it? http://imgur.com/a/Wicss the car used to be a manual M20B25 which I stole for my coupe, ended up with this engine and this transmission.
  17. does anyone know if a getrag 260 off an M20 will just bolt straight onto a M40? and if so, are the splines on the clutch plate the same?
  18. Hi people, I've had my 525e for over 6 months now and apart from a computer failure in the first 24 hours, it's run well. I had the distributor cap off the other day when I replaced the cam belt, tensioner and pump. It was in a bit of a sorry state so I made a note to look into getting a new one... Checked the other day and just about fell over with the $350 ish price! Not sure what I'm asking here but have any of you fine people found cheaper options than this? The car is starting to miss a little and while economy is admirable on the open road it's pretty diabolical on my 25kms to work each day. (OK, yup, it is a heavy 6cyl car! I know...). I feel like it could run better anyway and the cap is a good place to start. Alternatively, has anyone got a good one they might part with? Tom