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E36 Jatco transmission problems

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I thought I'd post this as an informative resource for others with this problem commonly known as "the Jatco Jerk". I'm in the process of having this fixed on my car and I'll post more information as it comes to hand.

The "Jatco Jerk" affects 6 cylinder E36 and M50-engined E34 BMW's assembled in Japan. These "Japanese BMW's" were fitted with a Jatco transmission that has been used in a variety of cars including the Nissan Skyline.

The Jatco transmissions commonly develop problems with poor shift quality that can worsen over time if not attended to. Including:

- A jerky change between first and second gear (more noticeable when cold)

- Soft-shifting or "flaring" between 2nd and 3rd gear and sometimes between 3rd and 4th gear. (transmission briefly returns to neutral before selecting the next gear)

My car is currently in the capable hands of Aceomatic Automatic Transmission Services on Stanmore Road in Christchurch. They were recommended by my BMW specialist and often service BMW's for many of the European car yards. The transmission is out of the car and being pulled to bits as I type this to determine the exact cause of the problem. Thankfully my car has a mechanical warranty, so it makes sense to have the current transmission repaired with a guarantee as opposed to fitting a secondhand transmission that is in unknown condition.

I'll get the full diagnosis on what was wrong, the repairs needed and the breakdown of costs and post it here for everyone's information. Likewise, if you have any knowledge of this topic feel free to post here so we can help others with similar problems.

UPDATE 21/10/08

I have the car back and it drives beautifully. I'm actually thinking about taking it for a drive for the sake of driving again! :D

Here's the invoice breakdown incl. parts and labour and the total cost:

1 GASKET $6.10

1 PUMP GASKET $15.28

1 HIGH CLUTCH SEAL KIT $24.81

1 PUMP O'RING $8.41

1 CONVERTER SEAL $8.26

5 HIGH FRICTION PLATE $192.50

1 CUSHION $23.71

1 INTERMEDIATE BAND $63.09

1 FILTER $29.54

1 SCAN TOOL CHARGE $35.00

1 CLEAN AND TEST SOLENOID $25.00

1 POWER FLUSH COOLER $90.00

8 LITRES TRANNY FLUID $120.96

+ 12 HOURS LABOUR $734.28

ROAD TEST AND CONFIRM CUSTOMER CONCERNS, SCAN FOR CODES. PUT VEHICLE ON HOIST AND DRAIN TRANSMISSION FLUID, REMOVE THE PAN AND ADVISE CUSTOMER OF FINDINGS. REMOVE THE TRANSMISSION AND DISMANTLE AS REQUIRED. CHECK OVER FRICTION MATERIAL AND SEALS AND SUPPLY THE CUSTOMER AN ESTIMATE TO REPAIR.

REMOVE AND DYNO TEST PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID. REASSEMBLE - REPLACING FRICTION MATERIAL AND SEALS AS LISTED AND REFIT TRANSMISSION TO VEHICLE. SET UP ALL CONTROLS AND FILL WITH TRANSMISSION FLUID. ROAD TEST AND RECHECK FLUID LEVEL, RECHECK FOR CODES AND FINAL OKAY.

TOTAL COST INCLUDING GST $1125.80

TOTAL COST TO ME (CAR UNDER MECHANICAL WARRANTY) $250.00 Get one they're worth it!

So there you have it, that's how much it cost to have my Jatco jerk fixed. The mechanic did say to me however that I had quite a mild case of it and that it gets much worse. He said that later E36's with this problem often cease to select first gear altogether and simply start off in 2nd. In these cases the labour costs start to really pile up.

 

Edited by gannetboy

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Just a quick question. You say BMW's imported from Japan are affected, does this mean ones that are assembled in Japan?

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from previos experience the pressure piston in the g/box breaks causing harsh change,the newer boxes have an upgraded piston-let us know if this is the case!

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Mines got that thud into second gear. Its a wee bit shameful when you've been telling everyone that the germans make awesome cars:P

Ill be waiting to see what your guys say:)

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I dont know if this is a Jatco related problem but I have noticed when I put my car (E36 318is) into reverse it has about a 3 second delay before it engages, any ideas?

Its not imported from Japan either...

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Under harder than normal acceleration my 328 sort of jumps twice from 2nd to 3rd.

Changes then seems to change again with a slight delay and revs stay about the same, I'm guesing this is the flaring you are talking about, would be interesting to know the cost in fixing this, anyone try to DIY it?

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Guest Simon*

I dont know if this is a Jatco related problem but I have noticed when I put my car (E36 318is) into reverse it has about a 3 second delay before it engages, any ideas?

Its not imported from Japan either...

That sounds like a programming issue - have heard of similar problems with other brands (Holden). The trans had to be taught new lessons

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Not sure if im correct here but I'm pretty sure Japanese assembled e34's with m50 engines/auto's fitted also had the Jatco transmission.

Had nothing but issues with mine including being replaced twice. A software reset also helped. Never could get rid of the flare from 3rd to 4th when accelerating hard.

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OK, just had the call from Aceomatic: I'll need to clarify some of what he said when I go to pick the car up as it was all a bit too technical for me... but here's the gist:

The vibration was in fact nothing to do with the transmission and was in fact seized universal joints in the driveshaft. They have sent the driveshaft away to be rebuilt with new joints. I'll edit my original post to reflect this.

The transmission issue was a "shiny drum". Apparently the "steel bands" that aide in changing gears grip to the sides of the drums to do so. When the drum is worn it gets shiny so it can't grip and has to be refurbished or something. (I might try and get a written explanation cos I don't really understand it!!!) The mechanic mentioned that this happens due to wear and tear and perhaps has something to do with repeated use of the 1st to 2nd change in gridlocked Japanese traffic rather than an inherent problem with the transmission.

Costs still to be confirmed... I'll keep you updated.

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My mate has a 98 E36 318is Jap Import which i assumed had a Jatco & needed appropriate fluid.

We took it in for a transmission flush and filter change and my local Ex BMW mechanics and he said only 6 cylinders from Japan came with the Jatcos.

He worked Coombes Johnstone for 10 years, older dude seems to know his stuff.

He just replaced with Dextron 3 and its been fine as ever, not that is wasn't before thou.

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That sounds like a programming issue - have heard of similar problems with other brands (Holden). The trans had to be taught new lessons

Oh okay, well thats not so bad then.

You dont happen to know where I'd go to get that done or just easier to get it done at the dealer?

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Reset at BMW then the next thousand km's you drive teach the trans your dirty dirty lead foot habits

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Generally most BMW's imported from Japan were also assembled there. You can tell if you have a Japanese assembled BMW by looking at the speedometer. The letters "JPN" will be stamped in the centre.

Most BMWs are assembled in Germany. Even the ex-Japan BMWs are assembled in Germany. All the E39s I ever saw were. Some vehicles (Z4, X5) are made in the USA.

JPN on the speedo simply means that the instrument cluster is the Japanese-version cluster (different instrument cluster to Euro and USA cars, has different functions)

The VIN reveals what manufacturing facility the vehicle was built at, the following is part of the VIN standard:

VIN Character 1 - Manufacturing Country Codes

1 or 4 USA

2 Canada

3 Mexico

J Japan

K Korea

S England

W Germany

Z Italy

So check your VIN.

Starts with a J = made in Japan

Starts with a W = made in Germany

Most BMWs start with WBA = Germany, BMW, Plant A.

Edited by jochen

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Thanks for the info Jochen, very useful.

However, I was told that Japanese BMW's were sent as complete knockdown kits from Germany and assembled in Japan due to laws that required all cars to have at least a certain amount of Japanese parts in them, hence why we have the Jatco transmissions. Otherwise, wouldn't all cars have the sturdier ZF trannys installed?

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With regard to costs invloved....

I had flaring in my trans at only 52000km, mainly between 2nd/3rd, the gearbox had to be reconditioned at a cost of just over 3k by pharazan auto's in lower hutt. Thank god i didn't have to pay for it! I am now on 65000km and i still get the 1st to 2nd jolts in the morning, other than that it seems to be fine... My car is a 96 323i coupe.

Lesson to be leart: If you get an e36 without a zf tranny get a warranty!!

Having said that my old man has a 1996 sedan with i think nearly 140000km on the clock and the gearbox seems to be fine - but who knows whether it has been reconditioned in the past or not.

On another note - i just got him a 2000 728i, singapore import. Did they use Jatco boxes in these at all?

Further point: my mum has a 96' 328i touring, nz new, and i have to say the zf trans is so much nicer to drive with full stop, just seems tighter to me. I think i'll be getting a nz new one next time round!

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The transmission issue was a "shiny drum". Apparently the "steel bands" that aide in changing gears grip to the sides of the drums to do so. When the drum is worn it gets shiny so it can't grip and has to be refurbished or something. (I might try and get a written explanation cos I don't really understand it!!!)

Transmission Bible - scroll down to auto trans - great pictures will help explain what your mechanic is referring to.

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Just push the snowflake button when you take off then you can avoid the 1st-2nd jump until it's nice and warm.

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On another note - i just got him a 2000 728i, singapore import. Did they use Jatco boxes in these at all?

No I dont think singapore imports use Jatco boxes. My guess was that they get the same cars as we do in NZ when they are new, only singapores climates tends to do a bit of damage sometimes but everyone knows that.

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So how can we tell if we have the Jatco?

It's stamped on the side of the gearbox... crawl under the car and have a look if you like! :D

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Bump - I have the car back and my original post has been edited with job description and costs.

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You do you have the Warranty with?

Protecta Insurance. They've been excellent and paid out on all of the claims I've made. Had the driveshaft reconditioned and the water pump replaced while the car was in having the auto repaired. Total cost was over $2500. My cost was just $750 (excess on three claims as they treat each problem as a separate claim)

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Wow, there not making much money out of you then. Glad to here the cars back on the road

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