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MLS Headgasket question

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Hey guys, probably going to order my MLS gasket from the states tommorow night. Just wondering if anybody knows the risk of running the 0.140 thickness or any MLS gasket for that matter withouth the ARP studs. Pain in the ass thing is, the studs have to go right through and hold your end caps on, on the crankshaft.

I see alot of guys use them in the states and alot of guys dont. Is it just added protection? I was just going to get brand new factory bolts as they are torque yeild anyway. Cheers for any help in advance.

Luke

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Oh well too late now have ordered my MLS Cometic gasket from the States, should be here in a few weeks... was talking to Gus and he said to run standard headgasket with stronger ARP studs but such a hard decision with so many guys in the states running the MLS gaskets I thought I'd try the MLS... no offence Gus your theorys made perfect sence and have much respect for your input and help but as I have a spare block to play with im going to test down this track and if im proven wrong I could end up with a very expensive bill if the head needs replacing...

...money tends to place a big part in this forced induction game, im gambling with running the headgasket so will let you guys know in a few weeks if it pays off, if not I will have a blown block and maybe stuffed head. In this case I will setup a a motor with standard thickness headgasket and stronger ARP Head studs to see how she handles.

As discussed with Gus the headgasket is the weakest point in the motor and is much more convenient blowing than any other part etc.. rods or the head...

But like Gus has said we are no experts in when it comes to forced induction and it is a matter of trial and error... my tuner has advised me too lower the comression to 8.1:1 so will be going down this track by using the MLS headgasket. Results will be revealed in the near future.

Cheers, Luke

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Up to 10psi == Stock HG

7 - 14psi == Stock HG + ARP studs

11 - 20psi == Stock HG + cutting rings + ARP studs

14 - 25psi == MLS + surface prep + ARP studs

20 - 30psi == copper + cutting rings + ARP studs

this is the sort of rule the guys in the US work on.

saying that, i ran 15psi with new head bolts and a mls from gaskets unlimited,no dramas.

really depends on how much security you want of it not poping and how long your planning to keep it

cheers m

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saying that, i ran 15psi with new head bolts and a mls from gaskets unlimited,no dramas.

Is the M30 the same headbolts as an M10? Big beefy, not torque to yield? I am assuming mine will be fine for 15psi plus with o-rings.

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also depends on what compresion ratio your running +boost???

think thats self explanatory, as the compression ratio dictates boost level.

if we play it safe

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Is the M30 the same headbolts as an M10? Big beefy, not torque to yield? I am assuming mine will be fine for 15psi plus with o-rings.

correct,m10 and m30 headbolts are the same items,just a few less

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Up to 10psi == Stock HG

7 - 14psi == Stock HG + ARP studs

11 - 20psi == Stock HG + cutting rings + ARP studs

14 - 25psi == MLS + surface prep + ARP studs

20 - 30psi == copper + cutting rings + ARP studs

this is the sort of rule the guys in the US work on.

saying that, i ran 15psi with new head bolts and a mls from gaskets unlimited,no dramas.

really depends on how much security you want of it not poping and how long your planning to keep it

cheers m

Cheers m, ill be stripping the head off get the valves grinded hopefully and do valve stem seals, plane the head clean the block surface right up. The MLS gasket im using (0.140") reduced compression to around 8.5:1. I will hopefully run 13-18psi.

Luke

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how come the studs have to go through the entire block to hold the mains in place? Since you said you are getting machining done, when you get the head and the block machined, let them know you are running a steel gasket. Surface grit finish you place on it is different than composite gaskets if you want to get it to seal as well as it possibly can.

Edited by Madhatter

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how come the studs have to go through the entire block to hold the mains in place? Since you said you are getting machining done, when you get the head and the block machined, let them know you are running a steel gasket. Surface grit finish you place on it is different than composite gaskets if you want to get it to seal as well as it possibly can.

I was mistaken sorry, they do not run right through to the bottom of the block, cant remember where I read that now but obviously a false statement. I have now ordered ARP headstuds from the states ;)

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yeah, i was just thinking, I cant work out how or why they would go through the mains, seemed a little strange. Ive used studs before and they were easy, only thing to remember with head studs though is if you want to take your head off, you have to raise it up about 4 inches to clear the top of the stud before you can pull it off. Thats fine on a stand but stick it in a car and the firewall can suddenly get in the way (a little "massaging" with a bfh works well :) ).

Edited by Madhatter

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