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DRTDVL

Peugeot 205 GTi MI16

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Will this become a new phase for pugget owners!? like E30 Owners and volvo lips hahha.

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The pug owners are already grabbing the volvo and renault leguna lips.

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We after looking at the shocks they are completely dead, i'm going to assume that they have been like that the whole time... You can compress them by hand and they do not recoil a mm. Managed to borrow a set of 306 rear shocks (higher dampening rates vs the 205's) and man it transformed the car!

So the torsion bars are getting finished this week and then it's on to saving for the rest of the suspension which should be March, new rear billies, rebuild the fronts, and new springs.

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From the race on sunday:

Theme for the day: F!@K!

Practice run = good nice and safe

Run 1 = Just started to rain - roughly 2 seconds quicker than the practice

Run 2 = Couldn't get third get at all, lots of swearing - I think MLM is now partly deaf.

Run 3 = After tightening the sh*t out of the shifter bushes and stripping the thread on the nut for the gearstick, SPUN THE F!@KING CAR on the first hairpin... I'm blaming the guy that was dropping oil.

rained all day...

Bonus tho... the lip survived

Ended up second in class = grrr i know i was faster than what i did in run 1. Was less than a second slower in run 2 without getting third properly twice - we ran the hill in 5th for 1/3 - 1/2 the run....

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Unofficial but looks like i finished 8th out of 31 in the series, and 1st in class... not tooo shabby with a broken car... I know i can go faster so i'm looking forward to next years series...

Edited by DRTDVL

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Right so i've had some 22mm torsion bars on order since August as part of a group buy out of Aussie. The organizer finally got the items from manufacture this week and they forgot to make my 22mm bars...

BUT!

They have accepted full responsibility and are giving me a 25mm Rear Anti-roll Bar for free...

:D

130-140ish over a blind crest...

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zoomed out (different run)

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Edited by DRTDVL

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2nd hand rear shocks (Bilstiens from a 306) = installed

rear ride hight adjustment = completed

installation of top engine mount = F!@KING B!@#H = Done (it hadn't been shaped properly so the buffer pads wouldn't fit... multiple removals and re-shapes = lots of wasted time)

Spark plug inspection = done = new spark plugs installed (old sparkies where flush with ceramic base for the waste part. Might explain the starting issue.)

I've also had to replace both the front headlights due to the glass falling out... One shattered and the other came off in my hand when i was checking to see if it was also dead. Re-siliconed all of the headlights so i know have 1 passengers spare.

Also now have a tensioner bearing for the alternator squealing. Still waiting for the new torsion bars to be made.

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ok wow long time since and update... not sure if anyone cares...

Sainsbury Road event last October:

Finished 9th out 40. 3rd in class C

1st - 3rd in class where covered by .25 of a second

Still having gear selection issues with 3rd and the suspension is still not fixed.

<--- only decent run - thanks gear shifter!

Some photos from Sainsbury road:

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The car is handling much better with the new torsion bars but it has made the need to be smooth mid-corner much more evident as it will step out on you very easily.

i'll try and get another friend to give me a hand and swap over the sump with my baffled one and reseal the damm thing so it doesn't leak. Then fill with some nice new oil, new filter... then play time mid-week at Hamptons for the Unkles thing i'm thinking!

I'll also needed to look at cutting some air holes for the oil cooler in the bumper as now with the lip it's not getting much air and it's really working that well. Got the hole saw and stanley knife out and hacked up my silver bumper... Placed some nylon mesh on the backside of the hole for larger stones, i'll have to see how it holds up before looking at improvements.

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Did the Unkles Hampton run. Had massive tyre pressure issues in the rear, but a stupid amount of fun. I'm hitting about 190ish on the front straight, and with the lovely Carbone Loraine RC6 pads i'm pulling up at the end of the pit garages from what i remember.

Did my best time (cellphone timed) with fuel surge, and held up on the final corner of a 1:23.1 - i know with out the surge, tyre pressure issues and not held up we should be in the high 1:21's i think...

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Found a couple nice little bits that will be ordered this year from a UK company called Bridgecraft Engineering - blurb from the 306 forum:

"Our main line of business is manufacturing aerospace components for the likes of Rolls Royce and Pratt and Whitney, as well as various forms of motorsport including F1 and MotoGP.

We have an ever growing range of Peugeot related parts which have been developed on Martin’s 306 track car and my own 309 and 205. We never really intended to market any of our parts but due to the increasing interest we thought it'd make sense to list a few of our products for you all to see."

Should help with a few things.

Bridgecraft Roll-Centre Kits:£95 plus p+p. The price will also include an abrasive stone that can be used in a hi-speed gun drill to chamfer your hubs.

The main body is cnc machined in house from EN24T and gives 30mm of correction. The full kit consists of the main body,laser cut side braces,zinc coated hi-tensile bolts, washers and nyloc nuts. The kit is per car so theres two sets of everything.

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Bridgecraft Bump Steer Reduction Kit: £100 kit only

2x high quality rose jointed TRE, 2x EN24T sleeved spacers and washers, High tensile bolts and nyloc nuts

This kit requires the TRE taper in the hub to be accurately drilled out to 16mm.

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They also do a couple other nice little bits like:

- Negative camber rear arms: £175 - Machining of your trailing arms and fitting of new EN24T stub axles to give -3 degrees of negative camber.

- Negative camber front hubs: £140 - We can modify 205/309/306/405/406 front hubs to give any amount of negative camber you require.

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Some progress on the blanking plates for the spot lights that a Matt is helping (doing) with and took some pics of his progress...

You can see how it's going to extend past the spotlight hole blanking the complete hole.

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Once the skin gets applied it should look something like this

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Front sub-frame is all now nicely welded up (except for the sections I did) - THANKS MATT!

It's sounds a lot more solid when it bangs on the ground and dosn't really feel any heavier.... It looks like it was basically 4 sections of 3mm thick steel spot welded in a few places so based on the feedback from those overseas that have done it already it should stiffen up the front end a fair bit. We have reinforced the control arm mounting points a fair bit with extra welds.

no pics of mine but it's like this:

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Matt (MLM) dropped these off to me at the pub - had to give it a test fit... they arn't screwed/revited in yet - just sitting in there.

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Nothing happening with the car as i'm way to broke at the mo...

Edited by DRTDVL

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