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Operation: Weapons Grade

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Would the change system be more balanced ( force wise) with two rods rather than the one as you currently have?

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You can get a single selector rod with a double end, but the problem is you then need a non welded pin inserted which kind of defeats the purpose and puts instability at he insert pin and relies on a perfect fit for the pin . More movable parts = more places to wear over time.

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My quest to battle the insane oil temps finally descended in to going all out. At the same time I decided to replace anything on the belt that had a bearing ...

Coolant thermostat

Water pump

Tensioner pulley bearing

Guide pulley

New belt

Alternator

ICV to head vacuum drain pipe

Internal oil thermostat replaced with external Mocal thermo

-8 replaced with -10 AN lines and fittings

Vac s50 oil housing to -10 AN adapter.

Machined oil diverter valve to allow 100% flow

Various elbows and separators

The problem with the internal thermostat is that it only allows 33% of the oil when fully open to the cooler. Because I run a larger cooler the oil was not cycling through the cooler properly. It was taking 30mins of driving to even get hot. So it wasn't flowing at all. Effectively making it so I didn't have a working oil cooler.

I came up with a much better solution which would push 100% of the oil through the cooler, however it did away with the internal oil thermostat which isn't ideal on a road car. So I sourced a external Mocal oil thermostat which is fully closed under 80 degrees C then will open and allow up to 100% flow to the cooler, which is what I was after! :)

There is one draw back to this option, you are now pushing full pump pressure through a system that isn’t designed for it. So and upgrade of the size of pipe and fittings was in order. I went for -10 AN fittings in a nice black colour (I'm not usually into dazzly colours) and in keeping with mostly stock look.

Removed Stock oil thermostat.

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And replaced with the diverter valve

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Installed the new Vac oil housing -10 adpater

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Installed all the boring stuff..

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Made up some lines

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And installed

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nice 90 degree AN elbows for the oil cooler. Had to install 7/8-14 UNC to -10 adapters .. imperial sucks.

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Now to finish up tonight and burn everything in... Doing the oil took a while priming all of the lines but lucky isnt something I have to do too often as its really a two person job.

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Looks mint!!

Hopefully it does the trick!

What lines (system) did you go for?

I was going to try the Fragola 8000 Push-Lok stuff with my external oil T-stat.

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Looks mint!!

Hopefully it does the trick!

What lines (system) did you go for?

I was going to try the Fragola 8000 Push-Lok stuff with my external oil T-stat.

Yeah I'm hoping too .. Oh nice, yeah I havent really looked into other systems .. only what a mate recommended on his EVO3.

Rewired the Honeywell industrial 3 wire 0-100psi 0-5v pressure sensor (which replaces the useless factory pressure switch) for my datalogger/display. Added a automotive sealed connector as it makes removing the oil housing in the future a bit simpler. I probably should have done that from the start a few years a go.. but oh well.

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Did some work on Saturday up at Rays workshop and replaced the OEM diff hanger bush with a set Ive had tucked away fro 6 years or so from AKG Motorsport. Its nice to have lateral rear handling dialled back in again.
I thought having a solid poly bush would make things a bit harsh, but it really didnt. I will however keep an eye on the rear hanger and make sure its not going to suffer.

z3m Mcoupe 3.15 Diff out. Also took time to replace the half shaft bolts with new torx head ones I had tucked away instead of the annoying cap screws that were on it.

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New Solid mount 75d poly one being installed.
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Is there any chance of reviving the pictures in this thread? Would be such a good resource for building my own.

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No unfortunately, like many when image hosters decided they where getting ad revenue because of facebook they just shut it all down and broke a lot of these sorts of threads.

Anyways, thought I post a couple of things. I still have the car and its still going strong and fully maintained. It has its own facebook group where I tend to post updates these days.

 

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Rocker cover gasket replacements and bolt rubber washers. 

 

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E30 Blower fan and replaced the heater core and matrix that blow up last summer. Was a bit of a job but well worth it to have my blower back and heater system ... oh and a running car with no coolant leaking into the cabin was a bonus too.

 

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Loved seeing this in Karaka. Looking forward to seeing it at the next meet, i need to take more photos of that cooling system 😁

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On 12/19/2021 at 1:54 AM, Cammsport said:

Loved seeing this in Karaka. Looking forward to seeing it at the next meet, i need to take more photos of that cooling system 😁

No worries, feel free to fire me a PM, happy to anwser and questions around the whole topic .. Ive spent a few iterations getting it right.

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On 2/7/2022 at 10:50 AM, TriniGT said:

What are the specs on your wheels and what suspension setup do you have?

BBS LM 18x8.5 ET30, suspension is; Ground Control adjustable camber tops, e30 m3 front struts modified, ground control coilover set, koni shocks, eibach linear barrel springs 525f/700r pound. Ireland Engineering sway bars, treehouse racing offset eyeball castor arms. m-coupe rear trailing arms and axels. Wilwood 332mm brakes m-coupe 315mm rears. Ultra-racing strut braces.

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Time to resto the outside. The clearcoat gave up last year and didn't take to fondly to the amount of rain we have over summer and started to craze and peel. Not bad for 37 years.
First round is a massive cut back of all sections to a good base removing all the old shmoo. The front Tech1 bumper was particularly difficult because of the hard-shell hammarite style paint, great for stone chips but not so great for removing. The shop took it back to raw surface which I was quite happy about.

As a car person, it is always a fun time taking paint off a car, you never know what you're going to get. I guess I have been extremely fortunate in that the a lot of credit goes to the previous owners of this car where there is no accident damage or bodge-ups to be found.  I have always kept the car in a garage, away from sunlight when garage and pretty diligent with cleaning and maintaining the car with the right products.

Just few small bits of under paint surface rust on the top metal caps on the bumpers where water was now starting to soak through the clearcoat. But all in all the car is as straight as an arrow. Great base to start the resto from.

 

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And next was the application of hard high build primer. After this phase it will sit for a week or so to harden up then it will be block sanded to get all panels perfectly straight.
Then it will be into the booth again for primer then colour (stock Polaris-Metallic)  then clear coats. The motorsport shadow line window trim is also being done. 


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For the '86 Tech 1 Motorsport / s50b32, a lot of work has been blocking the panels down to get them perfect.

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Then it was onto the final primer. Super stoked how the panels turned out. It will be back out for another leveling sand of the final primer then over the next few weeks is final colour (Polaris-Metallic) then final finishing and re-assembly.

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Forgot to post the final outcome. 

While I was up getting some work done at HellBM I snapped these off.

 

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Where’s the love it to bits button for this beauty..?😍

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