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Operation: Weapons Grade

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Would the change system be more balanced ( force wise) with two rods rather than the one as you currently have?

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You can get a single selector rod with a double end, but the problem is you then need a non welded pin inserted which kind of defeats the purpose and puts instability at he insert pin and relies on a perfect fit for the pin . More movable parts = more places to wear over time.

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My quest to battle the insane oil temps finally descended in to going all out. At the same time I decided to replace anything on the belt that had a bearing ...

Coolant thermostat

Water pump

Tensioner pulley bearing

Guide pulley

New belt

Alternator

ICV to head vacuum drain pipe

Internal oil thermostat replaced with external Mocal thermo

-8 replaced with -10 AN lines and fittings

Vac s50 oil housing to -10 AN adapter.

Machined oil diverter valve to allow 100% flow

Various elbows and separators

The problem with the internal thermostat is that it only allows 33% of the oil when fully open to the cooler. Because I run a larger cooler the oil was not cycling through the cooler properly. It was taking 30mins of driving to even get hot. So it wasn't flowing at all. Effectively making it so I didn't have a working oil cooler.

I came up with a much better solution which would push 100% of the oil through the cooler, however it did away with the internal oil thermostat which isn't ideal on a road car. So I sourced a external Mocal oil thermostat which is fully closed under 80 degrees C then will open and allow up to 100% flow to the cooler, which is what I was after! :)

There is one draw back to this option, you are now pushing full pump pressure through a system that isn’t designed for it. So and upgrade of the size of pipe and fittings was in order. I went for -10 AN fittings in a nice black colour (I'm not usually into dazzly colours) and in keeping with mostly stock look.

Removed Stock oil thermostat.

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And replaced with the diverter valve

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Installed the new Vac oil housing -10 adpater

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Installed all the boring stuff..

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Made up some lines

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And installed

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nice 90 degree AN elbows for the oil cooler. Had to install 7/8-14 UNC to -10 adapters .. imperial sucks.

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Now to finish up tonight and burn everything in... Doing the oil took a while priming all of the lines but lucky isnt something I have to do too often as its really a two person job.

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Looks mint!!

Hopefully it does the trick!

What lines (system) did you go for?

I was going to try the Fragola 8000 Push-Lok stuff with my external oil T-stat.

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Looks mint!!

Hopefully it does the trick!

What lines (system) did you go for?

I was going to try the Fragola 8000 Push-Lok stuff with my external oil T-stat.

Yeah I'm hoping too .. Oh nice, yeah I havent really looked into other systems .. only what a mate recommended on his EVO3.

Rewired the Honeywell industrial 3 wire 0-100psi 0-5v pressure sensor (which replaces the useless factory pressure switch) for my datalogger/display. Added a automotive sealed connector as it makes removing the oil housing in the future a bit simpler. I probably should have done that from the start a few years a go.. but oh well.

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Did some work on Saturday up at Rays workshop and replaced the OEM diff hanger bush with a set Ive had tucked away fro 6 years or so from AKG Motorsport. Its nice to have lateral rear handling dialled back in again.
I thought having a solid poly bush would make things a bit harsh, but it really didnt. I will however keep an eye on the rear hanger and make sure its not going to suffer.

z3m Mcoupe 3.15 Diff out. Also took time to replace the half shaft bolts with new torx head ones I had tucked away instead of the annoying cap screws that were on it.

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New Solid mount 75d poly one being installed.
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Is there any chance of reviving the pictures in this thread? Would be such a good resource for building my own.

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