e30 cambelt done but now won't start....?

[Etwenty1 45]

There are two types of in tank pump in E30's. One is purely a lift pump (low pressure) that feeds the main pump under floor in front of L/R wheel.

The other is a main high pressure pump, in this case - no second external pump is fitted.

The fuel pressure is around 34 PSI in both systems.

If you have low pressure in place of high pressure then obviously car will be no go.

Ok i now have a high pressure in-tank pump running but car is just popping at the exhaust.

Exhaust manifold i getting warm but its not really firing just............pop pop pop at the exhaust.

Any suggestions before i dismantle and check timing?

[*Glenn* 854]

Any suggestions before i dismantle and check timing?

Yes... do that first and dont try running it again untill you have. If you find its more that 2 teeth out, you've probably done damage and you would need to do a cylinder leak test to determine that.

Edited February 26, 2010 by *Glenn*

[Etwenty1 45]

TIMING MARKS ARE ALL CORRECT (phew)

I'm now thinking i need to gauge check the fuel pressure, find a way to check the CPS - ?,

[e30ftw 393]

A bad CPS will mean there is no spark, as the ECU needs to know crank position to control the spark so if there is no CPS input then there is no spark.. So if you are not getting spark then it probably is the CPS..

I have a mint condition one if you want, $20 shipped.

[Etwenty1 45]

A bad CPS will mean there is no spark, as the ECU needs to know crank position to control the spark so if there is no CPS input then there is no spark.. So if you are not getting spark then it probably is the CPS..

I have a mint condition one if you want, $20 shipped.

Mine appears to be hard wired at the sensor end then joins a loom under the inlet manifold. How does it disconnect?

[e30ftw 393]

Yeah there is 1 bolt holding it to a bracket to point at the toothed crank wheel.

Then the crank sensor wire goes up over to a plug under the intake manifold. It should unplug somewhere under there anyways.

[Etwenty1 45]

DONT THINK IT IS CPS - I HAVE SPARK BUTS THANKS FOR OFFER

[Etwenty1 45]

DONT THINK IT IS CPS - I HAVE SPARK BUTS THANKS FOR OFFER

I have now checked the CPS and the blue/green temp sensor on thermo housing - Both OK

[melowpuf 19]

have you connected the fuel lines the right way around?

[*Glenn* 854]

have you connected the fuel lines the right way around?

Thats a good point Lance... but why would you remove fuel lines if your only doing a cambelt replacement ? If hes taken them off while checking for the no go problem its a very valid point though.

[melowpuf 19]

Thats a good point Lance... but why would you remove fuel lines if your only doing a cambelt replacement ? If hes taken them off while checking for the no go problem its a very valid point though.

He said he changed the fuel pump and that they were different, disconnected the lines, and also had the fuel pressure regulator off. So the fuel lines would be my starting point.. then injector pulse i suppose..

[Etwenty1 45]

He said he changed the fuel pump and that they were different, disconnected the lines, and also had the fuel pressure regulator off. So the fuel lines would be my starting point.. then injector pulse i suppose..

Yes i have disconnected the lines but after fixing a new pump to my original bracket shes all back the way it was, at the pump end.

I'll check it but doubt i have the lines messed up.

Changed the fuel filter as well but have checked the "out " end is at the top and it runs to the rail, not the reg.

How does one check the injector pulse please?

Thanks for the comments.

[325_driver 422]

I can put 100 dollars on that this is some thing basic and stupidly simple

as a mechanic once told me, cover your basics, its not very often you do a simple thing and some thing major goes wrong.

for instance, i did an engine rebuild once, put it all back together, cranked, spark, fuel, air, and nothing.

pulled it apart, rebuilt it again thinking it was some thing major, did the whole process again and . . . nothing

then i looked at my leads going hang on, cylinder 1 is near this end ooops.

Check your leads are round the right way.

Some thing stupidly simple, but you never know

[Etwenty1 45]

I can put 100 dollars on that this is some thing basic and stupidly simple

as a mechanic once told me, cover your basics, its not very often you do a simple thing and some thing major goes wrong.

for instance, i did an engine rebuild once, put it all back together, cranked, spark, fuel, air, and nothing.

pulled it apart, rebuilt it again thinking it was some thing major, did the whole process again and . . . nothing

then i looked at my leads going hang on, cylinder 1 is near this end ooops.

Check your leads are round the right way.

Some thing stupidly simple, but you never know

I agree, its just finding that ******* stupid simple thing!

[Etwenty1 45]

Thats a good point Lance... but why would you remove fuel lines if your only doing a cambelt replacement ? If hes taken them off while checking for the no go problem its a very valid point though.

FREE BEER

Have re-assembled front end and tried again with brand new plugs. Still no go just farts away at the tailpipe.

I did crank it for a while before realising i had not reconnected the CPS, plugged that in removed plugs left for half a a day (to dry out) and tried again, this time was popping at exhaust and manifold is warm. Plugs were bit wet.

Back to fuel i think, keen to check FPR, general pressure and maybe change fuel?, although all this was running prior to belt change............

Will send beer to however can get me going (12 pack of choice?) no belgian - well.....ok

[Etwenty1 45]

FREE BEER

Have re-assembled front end and tried again with brand new plugs. Still no go just farts away at the tailpipe.

I did crank it for a while before realising i had not reconnected the CPS, plugged that in removed plugs left for half a a day (to dry out) and tried again, this time was popping at exhaust and manifold is warm. Plugs were bit wet.

Back to fuel i think, keen to check FPR, general pressure and maybe change fuel?, although all this was running prior to belt change............

Will send beer to however can get me going (12 pack of choice?) no belgian - well.....ok

Car now has new dis cap and rotor - no change, cranking over and popping at exhaust. Back on the fuel trail.......

Does anyone know how to check the FPR?

[*Glenn* 854]

Car now has new dis cap and rotor - no change, cranking over and popping at exhaust. Back on the fuel trail.......

Does anyone know how to check the FPR?

lol...it needs to be running realy.....Fuel pressure should be 2.5 bar with vacuum..3 bar without vacuum

Popping out the exhaust has to be either cam timing or ignition timing

Edited March 11, 2010 by *Glenn*

[Etwenty1 45]

lol...it needs to be running realy.....Fuel pressure should be 2.5 bar with vacuum..3 bar without vacuum

Popping out the exhaust has to be either cam timing or ignition timing

I have double checked the timing marks on both crank and cam sprocket. I did loosen the cam sprocket very slightly to get the belt on then tightened it straight back. It has a key way on the sprocket doesn't it so i can't see how it would get out of whack. Same with the crank sprocket, there is a keyway there too isn't there?

[euroitalian 60]

Not so much a keyway, more like a locator dowel on facelift M20. Remove cam gear and check dowel is correctly engaged.

[Etwenty1 45]

Not so much a keyway, more like a locator dowel on facelift M20. Remove cam gear and check dowel is correctly engaged.

That was it, dowel was not in its hole and upon removal was a good 90 degrees out. What a dumb ass. When i loosened it slightly it must have slipped off the small key/dowel and slipped around. small key way and rotor mount are stuffed.

Happy to honour my offer of free beer to whoever guessed it. Whats your preferred brand?

I'm off to cry in one now and wonder about bent valves.

Cheers

[325_driver 422]

i think you got lucky mate, i have had instances like this, i think you would have luckily missed your valves. Ive cranked vehicles over before with valve hitting and you cant miss it. Not a happy sound or feel.

[*Glenn* 854]

As I said in my PM.... reset the timing correctly and try starting it & see where you go from there. If it wont go..do a compression test to confirm any problem. If it starts and doesn't run properly you will need to do a cylinder leak test.

[Etwenty1 45]

i think you got lucky mate, i have had instances like this, i think you would have luckily missed your valves. Ive cranked vehicles over before with valve hitting and you cant miss it. Not a happy sound or feel.

I may be ok, the timing mark on the cam sprocket was correctly synced with the crank so it was only the rotor that was out of alignment. That would explain the mis-firing and no start.

Anyone have a sprocket and rotor mount plate for sale?

[*Glenn* 854]

Thats great news Chris

[euroitalian 60]

Dont worry about the beer, you have spent enough time & heartache on this job. Give us a call if you need any "normal" parts. Sorry I do not have the drive for the rotor, but Ray at Hellbm will have one.