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thorburn

Should've got an m3

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Got this car a little while back. It was cheap and as a result it was (and still is) a bit rough.

What i will be trying to do is restore it and make it go around corners a little nicer.

So far i have:

-swaped the standard open 2.92 diff to a 3.15 lsd

-changed the rear shocks to bilstein sports

-added remus rear muffler

-re-sprayed the parcel tray from some sort of pink color to black

Here it is now:

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Things i need to fix:

-rubbers around windows

-broken fuel gauge. Always shows empty. I think it is the fuel level senders that are the problem

-holes in boot from spoiler + flaking paint on boot

-respray bumper trim

-replace front emblem

-tensioner bearing

-ac removed

-fan clutch

-radiator hoses

-front brakes

-exhaust rattle

-clutch

Edited by bbs

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How much did you pay for that? I'm loving the red interior

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How much did you pay for that? I'm loving the red interior

yes nice interior .

sorry to hijack the thread

can get you a red and black interior in nappa leather from a individual spec'd e36 coupe .

black cards with stitched in red leather inserts . black leather sport seats with red leather inserts down the middle .

$800 the set

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I'd do that, excpet mine has been re-upholstered and sold. Sick of it falling apart.

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think it was 6

cheapest factory manual e36 328 i've seen

I didn't like the interior at all to start with but it has grown on me

Forgot to add the best bits about the car. No traction control, no cruise control, no head unit and no obc

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think it was 6

cheapest factory manual e36 328 i've seen

I didn't like the interior at all to start with but it has grown on me

Forgot to add the best bits about the car. No traction control, no cruise control, no head unit and no obc

That's a great deal! I wish I could spare the money for something like that

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Sorted the fuel level sender. Seems to be a ver common problem for 95-on e36's and is 9 times out of 10 on the fuel pump side. Very easy to fix. Pop out rear seat, unscrew the cover on the drivers side(4 phillips head screws), unplug the level sender and fuel pump wiring, unscrew the cover from the fuel pump. I used a hammer and large flathead to beat it around. Carefully remove the fuel pump where if your lucky you'll see this:

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Was just a loose wire. Use a wire stripper to expose more wire if necessary and screw back into it's spot. Install is opposite to removal. The smell of petrol went after a short drive

If your an idiot this could be dangerous

quite happy to not have to carry the safety bottle around.

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then swaped old for new tensioner bearing, belts and bonnet emblem

Edited by bbs

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Started adding m3 bits to my car

Lemforder offset control arm bushes and Meyle heavy duty outer ball joints. I had these installed by Coombes. For the price i paid it'd probably be cheaper to buy a press and do it yourself.

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m3 Bilstein struts, H&R m3 sport springs, Lemforder m3 evo strut tops, m3 strut top reinforcement plates + other bits

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Before:

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After: (after this photo my craving for camber kicked in, so I switched the top hats)

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Still need to sort out a front sway bar that will be suitable for attaching to the strut. At the momment i am thinking i will try use a 23.5mm bar out of a 318. I have no idea if this will work so any advice would be great

Edited by bbs

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Looks like it's coming along well! If only I could afford such a project.

Isn't there a decent size sway bar you could use instead of a 318i one?

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the 318 bars are thicker then m3 bars.

See here for more details:

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=29776

Does anyone have some 23.5mm sway bars that i can borrow for a trial fit?

Edit: Ditched this idea and now have a 23mm swaybar that fits. Just for future reference

Edited by bbs

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Just took the car in for a wheel alignment and i have a problem.

Caster L=5.88' R=5.95

Camber L=-1.87' R=-1.25'

What would create such a difference in camber?

My first guess would be my control arm is bent on the right side.

Any help would be much appreciated

Edit: control arms are the same length and the cause was a washer that was stuck with lock tight between the shock and spindle

Edited by bbs

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Continued to move parts from the corner of my room to my car. This weekend was fan delete and coolant flush.

Link that helped: http://www.understeer.com/fanclutchmod.shtml

Fan delete used 80 degree thermostat (11 53 1 466 174) and 80/88 degree fan switch (61 31 8 376 440)

I will be getting an electric fan to go in place of the original fan at some stage. Does anyone have any links to one of a suitable size? And i need to think of how i want to wire it in once i do get it

No change felt but it is a little bit more weight out of the car and it's hopefully worthwhile preventative maintenance (Later I put the fan back in the car, i will still be getting an electric fan)

Next step is getting my wheels fixed and sorting out the clutch

Edited by bbs

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got some new toys

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plus e34 m5 clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and flywheel bolts

Still need to buy pilot bearing,throwout arm pivot and flywheel seal

and need to borrow, rent or buy a clutch allignment tool(edit: just use a rod with tape wrapped around it)

I also want to replace the shifter bushes while i'm in there. Not really sure what is necessary to replace. If anyone could inlighten me that would be much appreciated

anything else i should replace while i'm in there? guibo is in good condition and mounts will be replaced with e21 items (i think that's what they are from)

(edit: guibo was replaced anyways)

Edited by bbs

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Cool thread man, good to see you've got praying mantis approval.

You could borrow my clutch alignment tool if you were in Auckland.

Edited by tastic

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Fantastic mate. Always pleasing to see someone taking the time to make an already decent car even better.

What are you doing for brakes?

Are you going as far as fitting the M3 rear sub frame point reinforcement plates and front sub frame underside 'X' Cross bar?

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Guest Simon*

Nice upgrades. Definitely approve of Mantis approval.

Did you order the UUC gear direct from them? Shortshifter.com isn't it?

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Fantastic mate. Always pleasing to see someone taking the time to make an already decent car even better.

What are you doing for brakes?

Are you going as far as fitting the M3 rear sub frame point reinforcement plates and front sub frame underside 'X' Cross bar?

For brakes i'll be getting some slotted brembo's for the front and genuine pads. I've also got come braided lines from alert engineering. Might also rebuild the calipers

I've also got those brembo calipers that I might fix up and get rotors built for at a later date

I've already purchased the rear subframe reinforcement plates and an xbrace

after seeing the subframe reinforcement plates in person i wish i'd just made them up

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Nice upgrades. Definitely approve of Mantis approval.

Did you order the UUC gear direct from them? Shortshifter.com isn't it?

Yes i did. Rob was great to deal with.

I got in contact with him first in regard to their blemished parts deal. He made everything as easy and cheap as from there. You might notice some slight blemishes on the paint of the flywheel. theres a slight scratch on the paint on the other side as well. Nothing that effects the function of the product

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That is a frighting pink letter, good to hear that it all worked out in the end.

What are the specs on the style 19s?

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My first reaction was that someone was having me on.

17x8 et20 they are just touching my un-rolled gaurds in the back. Haven't yet tried them on the front.

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well that would rip your undies pulling it apart for nothing.

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I actually quite enjoyed pulling it apart. Some bits were a waste of time taking apart though.

I've been planning on freshening up a few things for awhile so i'd might as well get them done while I'm in there.

List so far:

belt tensioner

shifter bushes

clutch stuff

flywheel seal

pilot bearing

reseal diff

replace brakelines and fluid

m50 intake

replace steering rack line that's leaking.maybe find z3 rack

possibly get injectors cleaned

headers

Any recomendations on what brakefluid to use? the car is used mostly for exploring the mint roads we have around the country

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