Should've got an m3

[pjay 8]

My first reaction was that someone was having me on.

17x8 et20 they are just touching my un-rolled gaurds in the back. Haven't yet tried them on the front.

Boom, take that all you cry babies that go on about ET20 rims not fitting E36's. I'm glad you've got them on. What tyre widths?

I'm confident I can get to ET5 with 205/40's on my 17x8's.

[thorburn 120]

Cheers Brams that does look like what i'm after.

Before purchasing the wheels they were wrongly advertised as 17x9's. I was a bit worried about that but knew someone with style 5's would be happy to trade 9 inch barrels for 8.

That one has as a bald 215 tyre on it. Not sure on the camber it would be running. But at this point it does seem like these aren't going to have any problems fitting.

What effect on the handling should I see with the wider track width?

Pjay your gaurds are going to be burning. But you'll be able to get there

This is only half of it. It would seem that the alternator doesn't need cooling

Edited November 17, 2011 by bbs

[Gaz 1042]

My first reaction was that someone was having me on.

17x8 et20 they are just touching my un-rolled gaurds in the back. Haven't yet tried them on the front.

I've got some 17x9 et20 so its good to know how they go. Just have got to find an E36 first.

[pjay 8]

Yeah I'll have guard work to do. They're a finger tight at ET24 at the moment, and hard lock scrapes on non flat surfaces in the front. I've run 225/45, 215/45, 205/45 and now 205/40 in the front @ ET24. 205/40 rubs more that 205/45 and 215/45 was about the same as the 205/40's. The rears have had no problems yet at the current offset with the same size tyres. Keep in mind also, the front is very low. At stock height, or even legal height she is fine.

That was some pretty quick thinking by your lawyer and pretty quick acting on your part upon receiving the Repo notice.

Edited July 12, 2010 by Pjay

[thorburn 120]

I've got some 17x9 et20 so its good to know how they go. Just have got to find an E36 first.

going to lay your cards on the table?

I'm not going to go too low so clarence shouldn't be a problem. Nothing worse than a destroyed bumper covered in bits of possum

Is it worth getting the clutch and flywheel balanced? i'm leaning toward it being not necessary at the moment. But i am new to this so what would i know

[thorburn 120]

With the help of a specially built flywheel locking tool (little metal rod found on my walk home)the pressure plate and flywheel popped off

Comparing the old and new

And the added benefit of weight loss

Old:

New:

edit: Flywheel and pressure plate were later balanced. I was glad I did this as there was a little bit of balancing needed

Edited March 26, 2011 by bbs

[thorburn 120]

Ok well 'might do' list has turned into a done list

Got a bit paint happy and wanted to paint everything. Subframe and X-brake were coated in POR15 metal ready, POR15 rust preventative paint, and top coats of 3M and VHT paint.

The oil pump nut hadn't loosened much after 180k k's. And i've replaced the sump gasket. Bad photo

I've also decided i'll replace the valve cover gasket and the oil filter housing gasket while i'm at it

Looks like this engines been stretching its oil changes

Also have remove the rear quarter window to change the seals in that

Edited September 10, 2011 by bbs

[thorburn 120]

I've been slowley chugging away at things

The shift lever cup was a bitch to take off only because the book pictured lead me down the wrong path. Just if anyone else is changing this, if your looking down at the shifter it needs to be twisted clockwise. After a good 10-15mins and one stab between the knuckles with a flathead later I realised. I did feel mighty stoopid

Above is most of the pelican parts shifter kit. Which comes with parts 2,3,4,7,8,10,11,12,13,14,15.

part: 25111222688 (no12) has the inner cushion (no14) and circlip thing (no13) with it. So i've got some freebies if anyone wants them.

This is the cup (no12). When I removed it there was no cushiony bit (no14). Hopefully this will make all the difference. The shifter wasn't all that bad when last used but it did have a little bit of play in it. The goth nail polish is actually from the por15 that I got carried away with. Will most definately wear gloves next time. Just fyi meths, turps, petrol, oil and salt, brake fluid, and every other nasty substance I could find would not remove this from my hands.

Old engine mounts vs m3 engine mounts. M3 mounts look and feel more stiff after bite test.

And here are just shots of coloured bits that'll hopefully not be seen for some time to come.

I did consider other cars to insert this into. If you look close you can see the E21 tranny mounts and the tranny crossmember installed the wrong way around.

And now it's in. Wiring in will start tomorrow

Hope your enjoying

Edited December 17, 2010 by bbs

[tcbaurpower 5]

I like your approach, and it looks really very good . Being able to remove the front like that is rather handy I bet. I haven't done a new clutch and flywheel yet do you have to get them from the US or is that only motor sport versions?

Edited December 17, 2010 by tcbaurpower

[thorburn 120]

Made it very easy to slot it in the hole.

There are a few options for clutches and flywheels. It seems quite popular for people to use m20 flywheels and clutches and beef up the pressure plate. The setup hybrid has used also looks really good. For PP and clutches in NZ there's a chap on here that was selling them. After pricing up a standard flywheel, clutch and pp i had no problem giving my money to UUC

[thorburn 120]

Started the engine last night. Very happy. Only problem was oil dripping from the sump drain bolt. There is a video that I'll probably add later

Now the plan is to try get the car out of the garage by sunday. Being a slow worker and working usual hours it'll be a bit of a push. Lets hope from the pile I have all the parts I need

To do list:

-Drain, remove and replace old radiator (and refill)

-Install front suspension and steering rack etc

-Rebuild front brake calipers and install

-Install slave cylinder (I really hope it still works fine)

-Install differential

-Install driveshaft and bits

-Install front end

-Install rear quater window with new seals

-Clean up surface rust from under the battery

Edited February 18, 2011 by bbs

[thorburn 120]

Well I didn't achieve a sunday finish. Lack of diff oil and missing nuts for the front of the driveshaft have stopped me.

Pulled apart the front calipers for rebuilding. Front right was rusted around where the seal sits. This is probably part of the reason for the shocking braking ability the car had. I replaced that caliper for another that was lying around and was in good condition. I also replaced the piston on that caliper as it was a bit nicked up. For the first time rebuilding brake calipers it seemed very easy to do. The rubber slider guides were swapped for some brass items.

The bilsteins and H&R springs are back on up the front(for now) with a 24mm sway bar connecting to the struts. Nolathane sway bar bushes were a bit of a struggle to put in. Hammer and jack eventually got them in. Brembo rotors and Hell braided brake lines from Alert are also in there.

And the result of making the most of a sunny weekend

[Greg111 13]

Good read, you certainly have spent some money, that's for sure.

[thorburn 120]

Thanks.

I haven't counted up all the receipts but i'm hoping not to spend more then m3 money for a little while yet.

Small no picture update. Front end is on. New guibo and driveshaft is in.

To go:

-Bonnet

-Rear brake lines

-Diff

-Fluids

I'd also like to have a go at making a rig to check the toe front and rear. If anyone has any ideas or experience

Edited January 27, 2011 by bbs

[Greg111 13]

Spending "M3" money on your own car too make a far better ride is better than owning any old M3. Once complete you'll have the pleasure of driving a car that you made better and assembled yourself.

[thorburn 120]

It's all go. New clutch and flywheel is now adding to the lifter noise. I've also gained a squeal on start up that I think is coming from the power steering pump. Need to look into it some more. Overall engine is sounding horrible but is idling and driving fine (as far as i know).

New exhaust header gaskets were a bit smokey for a while and had me worried.

Brand new radiator(bmwarehouse) was leaking around the bottom of the overflow tank. I have tightened it down which has fixed it for now. It will be replaced as soon as possible. (edit: I still have this radiator in 26/3/2011 and it's doing fine. I want to get another water temp gauge and sender to plug into the block to make sure I notice any accidents)

Viscous fan is looking as dodgy as ever and I i'll look for a suitable electric puller fan.

Warrant tomorrow hopefully.

Edited March 26, 2011 by bbs

[thorburn 120]

Just went for a warrant and passed. WOF chaps were a bit surprised by the dirty e36. I was surprised it passed.

Squeal on start up has stopped. Can't explain why.

Having never driven on a new clutch i'm not sure if its behavior is to be expected or worried about. It doesn't slip well at all and skips away in a humping motion. It also doesn't like sitting at constant revs and starts humping again. I've been nana-ing the car and haven't got many k's on it yet. Hoping it'll wear itself out over time.

This car has too much personality at the moment.

Oh and tyres are all on the limit on factory wheels so it's time to start tyre shopping for the bbs rc's.

If anyone could suggest what size tyre would be ideal for a 17x8 wheel (et35 but that shouldn't be an issue)? Also the bigger question which tyres to get? I'm not looking for cheap tyres

edit: The humping was caused by the exhaust valve vacuum line not being connected. My bad.

Edited March 26, 2011 by bbs

[Michael. 2312]

Fantastic.

How does it go with the H&R + Bilstein kit?

[Gaz 1042]

What happened to the style 19's?

For an 8'' wheel I would go 215/40 or 45. If your into stretch go 205

[thorburn 120]

Fantastic.

How does it go with the H&R + Bilstein kit?

I really like how it goes. A lot stiffer then standard but not harsh to drive. And a lot better then used racing dynamics springs and bilstein shocks(these were crap apart from a low ride height). Only thing I'm not overly happy with is the ride height.

It is higher then standard motorsport suspension. The m3 H&R sport springs are supposed to lower an m3 by about 20-30mm. I must be a bit lighter with the junk i've removed and m52 engine.

What happened to the style 19's?

For an 8'' wheel I would go 215/40 or 45. If your into stretch go 205

Style 19's will come. 3 have been polished and repaired by mag master in Tauranga. They also cleaned up and resprayed the rc's. I'll get some photos up when I have access to them. I'm very happy with the result. Great company to deal with, good pricing and on time.

The style 19's will not go on the car at the current ride height. I do have a solution for this though(and it isn't an angle grinder)

Not into stretch but i'll do what it takes to get them in. Guards might take a beating

[kerry 10]

it looks like its on factory suspension! .. kudos for your hard work.

[Michael. 2312]

Interesting James... did you use Bilstein Heavy duty or sport shocks?

[thorburn 120]

I'm pretty sure they're the sport shocks.

Cheers Kerry

[CamB 48]

It is higher then standard motorsport suspension. The m3 H&R sport springs are supposed to lower an m3 by about 20-30mm. I must be a bit lighter with the junk i've removed and m52 engine.

It'll settle a bit lower over time (my M3 did, same setup).

[thorburn 120]

Just an update after 700k's.

The clutch and flywheel setup rattles like a tractor at idle. Personally i'll be able to live with it. It is very good to have the upper revs going to the wheels(not just to clutch slip). Traffic driving is a bit frustrating but less then when it was first installed.

Brakes are great. Haven't given them much abuse yet though.

On an appearance update the front indicators are now orange. No photos because who really cares

Newest problem to add to the cars personality is the starter solenoid is acting up.

On a side note i've just started at wintec's motorsport course. So hopefully big changes to this project will be on there way - this is if i can decide what I want to do to it

Edit: After fixing the intake leak the flywheel is a lot more quiet at idle. The clutch and flywheel setup is still quite difficult to drive in traffic. Rev matching is a must during spirited driving

Edited February 26, 2011 by bbs