Should've got an m3

[MLM 57]

Being that it's hardened steel I don't really feel confident in DIY'n it. I imagine it'll have to be annealed and re-hardened? Currently i think it's a bit beyond my ability, so it can wait.

Spark erode it maybe?

[Greg111 13]

If i had read this earlier i could have given you the number of a diff company in chch that made my clutches, very good product in the end, i shimmed my one for an added slip threshhold also

Can i ask where you got your "X" brace, been looking for one for a long time and failed so far.

By the way, nice work you've done so far, big fan.

[thorburn 120]

Spark erode it maybe?

I had never heard of this before. Looks like it is just what I need. I'll have a visit around and see if it's feasible

If i had read this earlier i could have given you the number of a diff company in chch that made my clutches, very good product in the end, i shimmed my one for an added slip threshhold also

Can i ask where you got your "X" brace, been looking for one for a long time and failed so far.

By the way, nice work you've done so far, big fan.

I got the x-brace from Brent. There must be an e36 convertible or z3 that hasn't had front end damage around somewhere. When i get better at welding i'll be having an attempt at replicating mine.

How did you shim it? thicker dog ears, different belleville washers or shim stock underneath. And what clearance did you have in the end?

Would you be able to get me their number?

I've been looking into molybdenum coatings to get some of my own made up.

This is my current selection of lsd parts:

Across the top is:

New clutches-1.9mm, new dog ears-2.0mm, old dog ears-2.1mm ,and old clutches-2.0mm

Under is:

Belleville washers-flattened 2.5mm each-expanded 4.5mm each, lid-14.0mm penetrating case, and the take up space washer-4.0mm

Lsd case is-97.0mm deep.

Spider gear case with gears inside-65.2mm

How they all go together

Recomended clearance inside the lsd case before block pre-load is 0.1mm-0.4mm (according to the bmw tis manual)

Old clearance was

97.0 - 2.1x2 - 2.0x2 - 2.5x2 - 14.0 - 4.0 - 65.2 = 0.6mm of clearance

Using the bmw tis method I also get 0.6mm of clearance.

New parts would be

97.0 - 2.0x2 - 1.9x2 - 2.5x2 - 14.0 - 4.0- 65.2 = 1.0mm of clearance

Not to worry, i'll just need to get some shim stock.

Another option is to go with 3 clutches

[westy 614]

Have a wade through HERE, there's some good info on lsd's, ramp angles ect.

Edited April 28, 2011 by Westy

[thorburn 120]

Cheers westy. Found a little bit here: LSD info if anyone else is interested

[thorburn 120]

Put the rear subframe back in. I couldn't find any suitable washers so I made up what I could. I welded up pairs of the supplied powerflex bushes to go under the front bushes. Above the front bushes and below the rear bushes i've used the standard concave washers and some washers stacked underneath. I'll be checking on the washers as i'm not sure if my efforts will stop them from flexing. I should've gone for a better product from the start.

Nolathane control arm bushes went in. Very easy to install. Not overly happy about the air bubbles in the sides of the urethane. But it'll do.

The blue camber adjusting arms are from redline. I shouldn't of wasted my money on these. They are nice for adjusting though. I'll need to get a 23 and 24mm spanner.

Just waiting on the differential. I've put the different ramp angles in the too hard basket for now. The best price I got for machining the part was $400. I could buy a lot of angle grinder discs for that. I'm looking for another lsd case if anyones selling.

Ordered a wideband sensor and controller from here.

Now i'm trying to get my head around wiring in the Link.

Edited May 8, 2011 by bbs

[thorburn 120]

It moves. And has been moving for a little while now. Back end is slightly more firm. Nothing to brag about but also not over the top.

Gave the car a wheel alignment last week. Set the car up with the same camber and castor settings as before. But zero'd the toe front and rear. The previous setup I'm sure there will be plenty of experimenting to come. Should put the height adjustable suspension in this week. And align again (it's really nice having access to an alignment machine).

The bbs rc's (black wheels) are on. I'm very happy with how they look. Pictures will come when it gets a little lower and a cert.

Flow tested the injectors and gave them a clean. All the testing was done at 3 bar so i'll have to re-do it at 3.5 bar.

Received the NGK AFX from bmotorsports.com. But being the lucky person I am, there was no NTK sensor sent with it. Hopefully they'll get back to me soon and send me out one

[Gus 5]

nice! always wanted to do this to an e36. maybe one day with time..

[5amchris 45]

Loving the work your putting into this car man! i wish i had the space and knowledge to do this kind of thing!

Can not wait for some pictures with the new wheels on.

[thorburn 120]

Couple of pictures here.

Replaced the tie rods today. Think i've finally replaced all the joints and bushes worth replacing.

Got around to painting the bumper trim. Just gave it a rub over with some alcohol and sprayed em. The front grill will soon get a spray too.

bmotorsports.com has still not got back to me about the missing sensor.

[swordfish 30]

Just wanted to ask you which adjustables are you going to be using? Also did you end up putting the hard diff mounts when you were doing your differential? Because when I got mine fixed I've put AGK ones the stiffest one before aluminum and now I can hear my diff when I change gears and when it engages. Just wondering if you have the same problem? Thank you.

[thorburn 120]

The adjustable suspension is from Mike Mosens car. They have bilstein inverted shocks and look to be steel sleeves welded over the factory strut. Not sure what the spring rates are on them. I'll need to make something to mount the rear shocks higher though.

I do have the alloy and delrin bushes in. I've got no sound deadening and the whole boot is stripped out. I hear a bit but it's nothing over the top. The noise is not noticeably more since doing all of the back end.

What subframe bushes are you using? The powerflex purples that I have are quite soft.

I'll get a video of the noises

My noise list goes:

-Clunking on not so smooth gear changes

-Squeeling when the clutch slips

-A knocking from exhaust touching subframe on bumps (this i'm getting sick of)

-Reversing and turning makes the lsd bind up. This leads to interesting noises

The NTK sensor has arrived.

New boot has been put on. Currently still has 320i badge

Finally smashed off the fibreglass front lip. Might rebuild it next week. I'm going to have to get better at parking before i go any lower

Front grills are currently out getting ready for paint

[swordfish 30]

I am using AKG 95A bushes... on my subframe. Yeah mine usually clunks when engage too fast and when I let go off the accelerator and then put my foot on again. When I had my diff rebuilt I got pinion and crown from another m3 diff could that be the reason? Also it keeps leaking oil from the middle axle where the drive shaft bolts on. It doesn't leak too much just a little. I had all the seals replaced twice but it still leaks. Also had the bleeder cleaned, but it still leaks. I am getting so angry with the guys who are fixing it. It must be something obvious. At least I think so...

[thorburn 120]

When I had my diff rebuilt I got pinion and crown from another m3 diff could that be the reason?

All seems like the same stuff to me. It's all just a matter of shimming and torquing everything up right.

I do get those noises. I just see it as the car encouraging me to drive better

I'd say the noise from the on and off acceleration is caused by the amount of backlash between the ring and pinion. Excessive backlash will definately make some noise going from coast to acceleration. Mine was in tolerance of what it said in the tis manual. If you need some figures i'm sure i can dig them out. I also found it interesting (i'm sure many wouldn't)that the specified backlash on the diff's is a lot less then any other diff i've tinkered with.

I've never pulled a pinion from one of these diffs but from reading this thread http://www.ohiobimmers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3624 it doesn't seem overly hard to do. I should hurry up and get another diff to play with to prove it. What company is trying to fix it?

Found the exhaust rattling problem. Snapped another rear muffler rubber. I'll have to look into why these are snapping. Most likely solution will be cutting up the remus resonator nearest the subframe.

[Lucan 196]

Flex pipes further up the exhaust might stop them breaking?

[swordfish 30]

All seems like the same stuff to me. It's all just a matter of shimming and torquing everything up right.

I do get those noises. I just see it as the car encouraging me to drive better

I'd say the noise from the on and off acceleration is caused by the amount of backlash between the ring and pinion. Excessive backlash will definately make some noise going from coast to acceleration. Mine was in tolerance of what it said in the tis manual. If you need some figures i'm sure i can dig them out. I also found it interesting (i'm sure many wouldn't)that the specified backlash on the diff's is a lot less then any other diff i've tinkered with.

I've never pulled a pinion from one of these diffs but from reading this thread http://www.ohiobimmers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3624 it doesn't seem overly hard to do. I should hurry up and get another diff to play with to prove it. What company is trying to fix it?

Found the exhaust rattling problem. Snapped another rear muffler rubber. I'll have to look into why these are snapping. Most likely solution will be cutting up the remus resonator nearest the subframe.

It's DCH motorsport... they seem to be legit, but I still believe there is nothing hard in putting everything together properly. The only thing that stopped me doing it myself was that I didn't have the right tools and any experience so I though it would be safer and better to get the professionals to do it... it turns out it's not quite true. They have put a massive backlash first time they've rebuilt it! It was making so much noise that I took it back to them and said to do it again and to reduce the backlash, they did but I still think it's not enough although it's knocking less now. So far I have taken my car four times to them... I would have thought they would be able to fix it by now... I did take the diff off my self both times when they were rebuilding it, third and last time I've brought them my car... just can't be bothered any more.

Ok one question for you as you know way more than I do

Is it possible to change the seals without taking the diff off and pulling it apart... I have an idea that it's not, but I am not sure, that's why I am asking....

I have similar a problem with the exhaust as you do it turned out to be a bracket that holds exhaust as it comes out of the headers... My bracket snapped, so I have welded it and put it back on... seem to be much better....

Edited June 3, 2011 by swordfish

[thorburn 120]

Sorry about the really really late reply. I'm not sure if you can change your diff seals without taking the diff out. You probably would be able to. But I sure wouldn't want to try it

So a bit of time has passed and not a lot has been achieved.

Went to an STM Gymkhana day a few weeks ago. Had a great time even though I lost the lock nut key and had huge understeer problems. Oh and spun when trying to go in a straight line

I purchased e36v8's old m50b25. Hoping to one day do some sort of experimental turbo project. Or use the 3 Litre parts I have lying around. Only reason they haven't been used yet is because the price of m54b30 piston rings is a little steep.

Also have a getrag 250 in pieces. Please excuse the lack of technical terms here. The springs that hold the synchro rings in place had all snapped between first-second and 2 had snapped between 3-4. Got a hold of Kayne Barrie (great chap) who supplied me with some springs(bmw don't sell the springs seperate) and unloaded a whole heap of usefull information. Will get some bits to make sure it is nicely freshened up. I understand why people pay to get gearboxs fixed

Picked up a nearly finished megasquirt for a mates car. That took a dive so now I have both of these. Surely i'll find a use if I hurry up and get into it.

And finally, as if I didn't have enough projects on the go at once. Metal for inside the car.

The bend in the drivers side looks kinked from the photos. I think it's some tape or something

The more difficult bends are coming. In particular the lateral bars. Anyone have any advice on getting the twist right?

Bender is a pro tools horizontal bender

Edited October 6, 2011 by bbs

[thorburn 120]

Got the lateral bars nearly done. Luckily I got plenty of advice from the tutor on how much to rotate the bar before bending.

Last day of construction tomorrow before a 2 week break.

Edit: Sadly the twist wasn't quite right. As a result made the part going down the A pillar stick in towards the windscreen. It was very borderline on if it'd be 70mm inside the window. So decided to re-do the lateral bars.

Edited October 6, 2011 by bbs

[Michael. 2312]

Ohhhh this is your E36 James.

Commendable work!

So this 328i will basically become a road going, roll caged track car? (That was my goal with my car, before I removed the cage I put in last year Haha)

[thorburn 120]

Cheers.

That is the plan. It is an opportunity that I didn't want to miss out on. Who needs friends when you have a coupe anyways

[Michael. 2312]

Yeah definitely.

When I had the cage in my car it was fantastic, the body was dramatically more rigid. After having it in for six months I got quite used to so it felt pretty soft once I took it out in favor of a leather interior.

With the modifications you've done it's certainly going to be a fantastic handling machine!

[thorburn 120]

There has been a bit of e36's on the forum so thought i'd better try keep up

Cars been stuck at tec. Luckily i've got the engine wiring to hack up and attach to the link loom. The current state of that is less then exciting.

On Monday some mates and I pulled apart the m50b25. Original plan was to just take off the head and give it a clean up while I have access to the tools at tec. Everything came apart way too easy so we continued.

Here is a video of it all unfolding

Will get more of the important photos up.

This will be an experimental engine. As a result things might be a little dodgy

I have a rotating assembly from an m54b30 that i'd like to put in it. I will get new big end and main bearings. Now comes the dodgy part. New rings are going to set me back $93 US each set. And I wont be paying that much

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...20Each%20%20%20

I haven't yet found any other suitable rings for a moderate price. I'd even considered going with forged pistons but that is taking me way away from an experimental motor.

So if all measures up ok i think i'll be re-using the m54b30 rings. I'll be pushing my luck as the m50b25 pistons are the same bore as the m54.

If that doesn't work i'll be looking into piston options from other cars

I've heard a few people mention strokers on here. I'd be grateful to hear any knowledge you have on the subject

[mistreku 0]

There has been a bit of e36's on the forum so thought i'd better try keep up

Cars been stuck at tec. Luckily i've got the engine wiring to hack up and attach to the link loom. The current state of that is less then exciting.

On Monday some mates and I pulled apart the m50b25. Original plan was to just take off the head and give it a clean up while I have access to the tools at tec. Everything came apart way too easy so we continued.

Here is a video of it all unfolding

Will get more of the important photos up.

This will be an experimental engine. As a result things might be a little dodgy

I have a rotating assembly from an m54b30 that i'd like to put in it. I will get new big end and main bearings. Now comes the dodgy part. New rings are going to set me back $93 US each set. And I wont be paying that much

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...20Each%20%20%20

I haven't yet found any other suitable rings for a moderate price. I'd even considered going with forged pistons but that is taking me way away from an experimental motor.

So if all measures up ok i think i'll be re-using the m54b30 rings. I'll be pushing my luck as the m50b25 pistons are the same bore as the m54.

If that doesn't work i'll be looking into piston options from other cars

I've heard a few people mention strokers on here. I'd be grateful to hear any knowledge you have on the subject

Brilliant thread mate, really enjoyed reading it. I love what you've done with the car so far.

Now, since you have both the M50 and M54 pistons at hand, just wondering, could you please measure the diameter of both? I can't say why but I am under the impression that M54B30 pistons are slightly smaller than M50B25 ones.

That could be a bit of a problem, if there's some extra wear in the M50 block as well

Will defo keep an eye on this mate! Good luck with the project!

[dubman 39]

I've heard a few people mention strokers on here. I'd be grateful to hear any knowledge you have on the subject

i've got no knowledge, but here's a link. http://www.justracing.com/bmw/viewtopic.php?t=55

been reading up on the subject lately as research

[Michael. 2312]

hah, would that be the inside of my old M50 you bought?

Did it seem alright inside?