E30 Mtech 1 323 Birthday.

[5amchris 45]

your right my bad =[

[Jacko 2076]

Exciting updates... Not

CC is roasting hot tonight, ticked a whole bunch of stuff of my list of bits though. We shall see how quick http://www.schmiedmann.com/ are at shipping, they use DHL which ive never used before, its cheap though

Go pick up some whiteline sway bars for the front and rear tommorrow, 25mm front. 16mm adjustable rear. Road legal go-kart

Rocker cover #2 is off to the powder coaters tommorrow too, Plastic media blasting worked mint, loving that toy, shits all over acid bath for cleaning stuff up.

And the car got a bimmersport sticker on the rear window

[Jacko 2076]

Powder coating FTW.

If your in central auckland, highly recommend Youngs powder coating in onehunga, I feel bad about the price this cost, A can of VHT would cost more....

Edited November 4, 2010 by Jacko

[dubman 39]

This is a very organised swap. hoping to do a m50 swap in the future as well.

Just needs some new bushes for some mean drifts aaawww Looking good dude.

[Jacko 2076]

Chur, its shaping up OK, looking like the plan is gonna be something like this -

Engine/Swaybars/Clutch/Exhaust etc all done in December, then im off to Seattle then melbourne for 3 weeks.

Once back Ill put the car back in the workshop, do the suspension (havent worked out what im doing yet, coilovers/konis+H&R's or soemthink) pull the custom headers out and send them to HPC for coating. Strip and rebuild the brakes (or might just get new calipers all round, they arent too badly priced) Then stick it all back together again...

Then work some EPIC OT and send it off for rust repair, panel and paint, likely to be a 6G bill (paints rooted and shes getting well rusty in the rear gaurds, below the RH tail light and RH B pillar.....) throw some new head and taillights at it along with new badges and a genuine Alpina type 147 front bumper, new window rubbers and trim, and maybe some stripes

And thennnnn.... drive it until it gets boring and needs FI

Edited November 4, 2010 by Jacko

[Jacko 2076]

New Question of the day.

I want too thin out my E34 loom out, got a full set of M3 loom covers so need to ditch some excess wiring for it too all fit nicely.

If I remove all the wiring from the loom associated to Aircon and auto trans (ie Pin 48, 64, 65, 85, 86 off the DME) so these all become open circuit will the DME still be happy? I cant find anything that requires a ground with A/C off, but without the wiring diagrams I cant be 100%.

Has anyone done this?

I successfully thinned out my X20 connector, once you remove all the BS its quite simple wiring wise on the fuse box side.

[polley 916]

Yeah you can remove all the auto and aircon stuff, can remove the diagnostic plug aswell.

[Jacko 2076]

Chur, Id rather keep the diagnostic plug, for when I f*ck something up

Any idea if all M50B25 DME's (Not TU's) have the same pin out?

[Jacko 2076]

Anyone able to help identify these plugs on the E34 loom.

Automatic box connectors? Cant really be off much else, wondering if both of them are (Round female plug and one of those sqaure ones that are all over the loom)

And this one, small black rectangle up by the DME connector.

Chur

Edited November 9, 2010 by Jacko

[polley 916]

Round female is AFM, and rectangle one is for the fuel tank purge valve. The other square one next to the ecu plug, im pretty sure is for the auto aswell, it might have aircon wires there aswell, other than that it is not needed.

[Jacko 2076]

Doh, forgot about the AFM

I dont have EPA purge tank etc, so removing that plug is probably on the list too.

Thanks for the help, tis appreciated.

Got 90% of the engine back together today. Discovered I missed a few things. Ordered 12 exhaust studs, instead of 24 (WTF was I thinking..) , need to go find some sorter bolts for the E36 arms too the block. And somehow my crank pulley bolt and washer have gone AWOL. Changed the waterpump for a shmeidman high flow one, The old one came out with one disgusting looking corroded turd for an impeller. 80 degree thermostat installed too.

Pulled all the injectors to be sent off for clean and flow check.

Forgot to take a photo, but compared to the state it entered the workshop in its looking pretty mint, apart from the alternator which looks like its been used as a boat anchor its so corroded. Might look at finding a new/rebuilt one, or just a prettier example

Fuct if I can work out how the E34 dipstick goes back in, must have to install it before the intake manifold

One thing I havent read before about the swap is that the E36 mount arms interfere with the E34 intake manifold mounts. They must use one shorter intake mount on E36's. Nothing a grinder cant fix. Most M50 swaps seem to start with E36 engines though.

Edited November 9, 2010 by Jacko

[Jacko 2076]

One bad movie, a rough idea of what wasnt needed, a DME pin out and ETM, and the loom is rock and roll. I hope

Wires up by the DME are road speed and check engine light, to be wired in somewhere under dash.

[Jacko 2076]

M50 coming together.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Edited November 10, 2010 by Jacko

[polley 916]

Looking pretty clean, I think I will have to get my valve cover powder coated.

[Jacko 2076]

Another 8 hours of playing with the M50 today. Yeah I work slow

Hiding all the sensors/wiring etc under the intake manifold may work for a nice clean looking engine bay, but it was testing my patience today Got everything plugged in and hooked up, intake manifold is back together for good and I cleaned a whole bunch of black goo out of the ICV.

Went nuts on schmeidman again this morning, credit card is bursting at seams, Ive nearly orderde everything on realoem.com Lots of new shiny things turning up though... Shot down to BNT and picked up some redline fluids and a pod filter and some silicon tube. Why do they only sell rice blue coloured silicon. fecken rude looking.

Got a few headscratchers though -

Is Item 8 on this only used on the plastic thermostat housings? I have one but fuct if I can figure out how it fits in the metal housing. Thermostat housing was already removed when I picked the engine up, and I have a new paper/rubber gasket doofa on (7) and a new thermostat O ring.

How the hell does the dipstick on an E34 M50 sit, I know I pulled it off but damned if I can work out how it goes back on. It seems simple as hell, but it just dont go nowhere!

On the throttle body, there are three hose coming off the bottom, the two forward ones are for the intake heat, but the most aft one looks like a vacuum line, and I cant figure out where it went too.

Anddddd

On the elbow intake pipe between the throttle and the AFM are two hoses going down, One is for the ICV, wheres the other one go?

Im pouring over pictures of M50's at the moment trying to figure these out, so I feel less dense, havent found a good shot yet

[Jacko 2076]

Figured half of this out by perving at M50 E36 and E34's at european car parts this morning -

I have an E34 M50, and discovered I have an E36 elbow. Turns out E34 elbow is a different beasty to an E36 one (E34's ABS block is right below the elbow), E34 vacuum lines will not fit on a E36 elbow

E34 runs the crank breather, too the dipstick connection, too the intake elbow thru a right angles peice on the fwd side. E36 runs the crank breather under the manifold straight too the connection next too the ICV plumbing. It all ends up in the same place, just different plumbing and routing. New vacuum and breather lines. Solved

The vacuum connection at the bottom of the throttle body sounds like it runs to the evap system. Blanked it off.

E34 dip stick wont fit with E36 mounts, due to the castings being different heights and the E36 mounts sitting further aft on the block. You could fix it with some spacers and long ass bolts. I cut one leg off, welded a 25mm extension too the other leg. Fits mint

________________________________________________________________________________

Now in hindsight Im wondering if removing the evap wiring from the loom was that clever an Idea, since the DME will now think the purge valve is dead and will flash the CEL. If I get the DME scanned, can this error be turned off for good, or will it constantly flash the check engine light?

Edited November 12, 2010 by Jacko

[Heino 1]

Powder coating FTW.

If your in central auckland, highly recommend Youngs powder coating in onehunga, I feel bad about the price this cost, A can of VHT would cost more....

How much was it?

[Jacko 2076]

Less than a can of VHT

[Jacko 2076]

Just stumbled across p/n for M50/52's serpentine belt, with no powersteering pump, but with the idler. 56.25" is the length.

p/n -

K060557

6PK1415

Edited November 13, 2010 by Jacko

[polley 916]

Figured half of this out by perving at M50 E36 and E34's at european car parts this morning -

I have an E34 M50, and discovered I have an E36 elbow. Turns out E34 elbow is a different beasty to an E36 one (E34's ABS block is right below the elbow), E34 vacuum lines will not fit on a E36 elbow

E34 runs the crank breather, too the dipstick connection, too the intake elbow thru a right angles peice on the fwd side. E36 runs the crank breather under the manifold straight too the connection next too the ICV plumbing. It all ends up in the same place, just different plumbing and routing. New vacuum and breather lines. Solved

The vacuum connection at the bottom of the throttle body sounds like it runs to the evap system. Blanked it off.

E34 dip stick wont fit with E36 mounts, due to the castings being different heights and the E36 mounts sitting further aft on the block. You could fix it with some spacers and long ass bolts. I cut one leg off, welded a 25mm extension too the other leg. Fits mint

________________________________________________________________________________

Now in hindsight Im wondering if removing the evap wiring from the loom was that clever an Idea, since the DME will now think the purge valve is dead and will flash the CEL. If I get the DME scanned, can this error be turned off for good, or will it constantly flash the check engine light?

Yeah you are on the right track. You could measure the resistance of the purge valve and wire in a suitable resistor so that the ECU thinks that the valve is still there.

[Jacko 2076]

The bentley manual rekons that the valve gives a pulsed ground Doesnt sound so simply to trick...

[Jacko 2076]

Asked Ian Haynes about my purge valve conundrum, and your on the money polley.

Sounds like the bentley manual isnt quite right.

A 1k resistor is enough to make the DME happy, apparently BMW actually made a clip with the resistor in it to plug into the loom for this reason.

Easy fix

Edited November 13, 2010 by Jacko

[polley 916]

Oh I think I have one of those clip / resistor plugs lying around somewhere, no idea where it is tho.

[Jacko 2076]

Engine and gearbox mounts turned up.

E28/E24 M5/M6 Engine mounts 11811128932 & 11812225201

E21/E30 320/323 Gearbox mounts, aparently the stiffest of the lot. 23711175424 x2.

Got hold of a Clio booster and check valve from http://www.rennojag.co.nz/ for $110+gst . Another wrecker wanted $350+gst (How 'bout nah!) Finding renault dismantlers is a biatch BTW.

Edited November 21, 2010 by Jacko

[Jacko 2076]

Waterblaster hire - $50

8 Cans of Degreaser - $15

Deciding the waterblaster would deal to the bonnet insulation foam, and then cleaning up the UBER mess afterwards - Priceless.

Edited November 28, 2010 by Jacko