Apex 693 Report post Posted February 1, 2012 You can still use the hydro handbrake when you have pedal pressure applied, it just adds more pressure. The drift boys seem to be all over these E36 second rear caliper bracket E30 second caliper bracket Do want. I still use my mechanical fang break but its not ideal. The Drift boys got it from the rally boys. Have always wanted a set up like that on my car but motorsports always eats the budget. Was quoted $850-1000 from E&H motors in Pukekohe. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andre3000 55 Report post Posted February 1, 2012 Ok steel lines, rigid tubing same thing. what i meant was I'm not going to use braided lines. I feel the factory lines are just as reliable if not more. I don't see how it would cost me more than $400 for the whole setup, including wilwood bias valve. I've already looked into MC sizing. With the brembo 2 pot rears its going to need a 3/4. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M5V8 337 Report post Posted February 1, 2012 I think you are both on the same page. Always use the factory steel lines, replace only if damaged. Use quality steel braided lines where the OEM uses flexible rubber...ie between the caliper and the body on each corner. I for one have been a near victim of aftermarket "steel" brake lines that had a plastic outer coat and were incorrectly sized. They rubbed on the inner wheel rim....just before a drive on SH1 to taupo I luckily gave the middle pedal a heavy push, felt the pop and the pedal when to the floor. No brakes what so ever. Scary since I was about 10 mins from hitting the open road. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted February 2, 2012 Haha for some reason when i think rigid tubing i think plastic tubes... weird i know. I've got my brake line running inside the car along the passengers side of the trans-tunnel. Make sure you get a bias valve that you can fit where your going to mount it... Mine is a little tight between the seat and the handbrake... I'm running banjo fittings on my rear calipers to help with body work clearance issues with the new calipers. It wasn't cheap but i've got the steel braided lines P clipped into place along the trailing arms so they are tucked out of the way and secured so they arn't flopping around. I still need to shield them a bit for piece of mind. Have you upgraded the front brakes also? Increasing the total cross-sectional area of the rear pistons a fair bit will play massive havok with your pedal pressure and you might not have enough control with the bias valve. I know with mine i need to increase the fronts or decrease the rears as with my bias valve I'm 1/4 - 1/2 a turn from fully closed to get the fronts to lock up before the rears depending on weather conditions. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andre3000 55 Report post Posted February 3, 2012 Plastic brake tubing would be scary stuff!! I'll do a brake test to see if i need the bias valve, then go from there. Front brakes are brembo 4 pots, got the set of front and rears off a wrecked sti. I'm assuming with a matching set I shouldn't have too much trouble but i haven't driven the sucker yet. So it panned out much easier than i expected to install. I had to shorten the lever an inch to fit properly in the original surround, which I modified rather heavily to accept the new addition. Instead of T'ing into the rear line i just rerouted the original lines/T fitting, therefore only 2 flanges to do instead of 4. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
