M20 Turbo's

[APT 179]

So I've been tossing around some ideas of building a turbo e30, has anyone here built a turbo m20?

An recommendations on turbos? Brands? Models?

I have been looking at these: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=546192240

Currently ive got. 2.7 stroker and already have a SS turbo manifold with T3 flange.

Any help would be appreciated

[Greg111 13]

John built one (e30ftw) Pm him.

[charles28 117]

So I've been tossing around some ideas of building a turbo e30, has anyone here built a turbo m20?

An recommendations on turbos? Brands? Models?

I have been looking at these: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=546192240

Currently ive got. 2.7 stroker and already have a SS turbo manifold with T3 flange.

Any help would be appreciated

At least its a decent quality turbo, rather then some nasty chinese $400 thing.

I would have thought 0.63 AR was plenty big enough for an M20 too.

What are you going to use to tune it?

[APT 179]

Have been looking at master power turbos, they seem to be good bang for buck.

Would really like to run a Holset HX35 - from reading a lot of the e30tech builds they seem to be using these.

As for tuning was going to run a mapecu3 or maybe just a miller MAF with remap.

Edited December 26, 2012 by APT

[e30ftw 393]

Do you have that SS manifold sold in NZ? Top mount?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-...n-545944196.htm

It's a POS, But works... You need to cut it in the middle and separate the banks of 3 and even then some of the holes do not line up. ALot of people I read when using that also brace it as it cracks with heavier turbos..

Also the dump pipe of the turbo is a near impossible fit, with deadening taken off the firewall best I could fit was a 2 1/4" pipe behind the #6 header and down, because of the fitment and steering rack.

Then again if you aren;t using that one....nevermind. lol. Mine was rough as heck, So I probably can't really give that great advice, But things to think about would be O-ringing or going with a MLS Steel headgasket, if your using a 885 head on a 2.7 bottom, the compression is pretty high, 10.5:1 or something?? (Euro 2.7 bottom ends have higher compression and the pistons are flat topped unlike US ETA, or SuperETA ones)

[No name user 379]

HX35 if you want one let me know i distribute the race series holsets for nz and aus

[APT 179]

Thanks for the info e30ftw I do have one of those manifolds, fingers crossed it fits okay.

I have a 731 head on b27 block with 272 cam any idea on compression?

Steve I have messaged you was hoping you would chime in on this topic

[charles28 117]

I'm actually looking into doing this myself, in the mean time i'm in research mode.

A lot of people on the over seas forums suggest ARP head studs and new head gasket as a min and claim this is safe for up to 475hp, however your compression is on the high side, you might need to keep the power down and see how it goes, the most important thing is tuning.

So far it seems its around $200 USD for the head studs, $320 USD for new Bosch 42LB Injectors, that cheap SS manifold on Trademe (its all I can find, I'd get my mate at Turbocare to tidy it up).

I'd be allowing at least 4-5k for this, (doing most of it yourself). its amazing how quickly it adds up.

I'd go with a MAP sensor, the Miller stuff isn't that great for turbo from what I've read, although since I have a war chip already I might have to go down that road, however I'd need a suitable MAF sensor, ie 3.5inch.

Once my house is ready (Being Built) and finished and I move into it I will get started, (in about 2-3 months) I have no room to do decent work on the car where I am.

I'm only looking for around 250whp to start with, which isn't much, but it might keep it reliable.

The problem with boost is, you always want more, I know this from experience, I've had many turbo cars over the years, after 3 months at say 250whp i'd be wanting more already, but thats part of the fun i guess.

[No name user 379]

475hp on any m20 splits the heads under the cam towers dont believe everything you read

[charles28 117]

475hp on any m20 splits the heads under the cam towers dont believe everything you read

Yeah I didn't believe the 475hp claim myself, which is why I'm aiming for a safer 250whp.

[No name user 379]

Yeah I didn't believe the 475hp claim myself, which is why I'm aiming for a safer 250whp.

the other issue is the valve gear doesnt like high rpm im sure people on some forums think that those who read it are stupid with the numbers they brag, when the green flag drops life gets real i say

[hybrid 1039]

American horse power is different to every body elses. Then there is internet horse power .. that sh*t has the 1.75X multiplier added to it.

[No name user 379]

yankie hp is based on egos

[morerevsm3 7]

I built an E30 323i turbo car for performance forums 13's for $1300 challenge, the idea was to buy a car, and get it to run 13.xx 1/4 mile, for less than $1300 total spend, excluding safety items, and you were allowed to borrow tyres, with very dodgy setup consisting of ebay top mount manifold, chinese s/h but new A/R 63 turbo, 19lb injectors from 535i, ebay fuel management unit and 535i AFM, and a chinese intercooler, went about $60 over budget, but did run 13.5@ 102mph, blew the head gasket on the next run when boost was turned up and exhaust from dump back removed, it felt heaps stronger before the gasket went. when removing the head later, it had one thread in the block stripped and epoxied, no wonder it blew...

building 2.7 for my sons car now, block is oringed, will have JE pistons to suit 2.7 with 885 welded head, 42lb injectors, megasquirt ecu etc, will mostly only run off wastegate pressure (9psi) which is still mental power

son trying to get ports somewhere near matching

[nipe 1]

I'm using that manifold as well and I managed to squeeze 3" downpipe all the way from turbo, also managed to squeeze 2" screamer past there

[e30timmy 0]

Just wondering how you ran the oil feed and return for the turbo

[e30ftw 393]

You can run the oil feed from the Oil pressure switch, you can get a fitting that fits into the pressure switch and T's off a oil feed line and another for the pressure switch (so you still have a oil pressure sensor).

Return can go to the side of the sump like in picture above, I've seen some wrap it around the engine to the oil level sensor hole on the other side of the sump, or where the Intake manifold oil drain tube runs into the side of the m20 block under the intake manifold. I don't know how you get to that side though tbh...

[morerevsm3 7]

as previous poster said, we drilled and tapped the sump as close as possible to block rail for the return, and used a tee piece where oil light sender is for feed