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Jibs05

'88 E30 24v 3.1L ( New vlogs inside)

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I bought it from a guy in tauranga. Ill recalibrate my wideband before I give you figures, just to be sure im giving you an accurate reading. But from what ive seen so far its pretty reasonable. Ill put up a break down of WOT, cruise, load.

The fail 110kw was done on the factory chip, although I believe it was other factors that I had overlooked while performing the swap the reason why it was sh*t.

Doing tests to see if the ecu was powering the o2 sensor (open loop?) Showed me that ever since doing the swap it was in closed loop (I may have them the wrong way around). I had missed connecting the temperature sender for the ecu. Which I think would send the ecu into a sort of "limp mode". Well thats my theory anyway.

Factory cams at the moment, id like to get some sort of piggy back before I get cams.

A lot of learning to do.

Edited by jib05
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I bought it from a guy in tauranga. Ill recalibrate my wideband before I give you figures, just to be sure im giving you an accurate reading. But from what ive seen so far its pretty reasonable. Ill put up a break down of WOT, cruise, load.

The fail 110kw was done on the factory chip, although I believe it was other factors that I had overlooked while performing the swap the reason why it was sh*t.

Doing tests to see if the ecu was powering the o2 sensor (open loop?) Showed me that ever since doing the swap it was in closed loop (I may have them the wrong way around). I had missed connecting the temperature sender for the ecu. Which I think would send the ecu into a sort of "limp mode". Well thats my theory anyway.

Factory cams at the moment, id like to get some sort of piggy back before I get cams.

A lot of learning to do.

If you're running an Innovate it should be fairly reliable.

Yah, 110Kw @ wheels seems about right for a 3l on stock B25 tune, is about what a standard B25 produces so given how lean the poor bugger would have been running its no surprise. Was your guy in Tauranga able to accommodate for different cam specs in his tune? M50B25TU has 228º intake and exhaust from memory, I'd go looking for a B25NV intake cam (240º, 9.7mm lift) to replace your current exhaust cam and a M54B30 intake cam (244º, 9.7mm lift) to replace your current one. Not a huge jump but a nice little gain in duration and lift for WAAAAAAAY cheaper than Schricks or custom ground ones. You will need to machine about 5mm from the face of the B30 intake cam to bring the sprockets back into alignment and allow the Vanos plunger enough clearance but its pretty easily done by a machine shop.

Should also be able to accommodate the different timing on the stock DME if your tuner knows what he's doing. Or just take it all to Gavin at HiVelocity, he's done this before.

Did you miss the Intake Air temp or Coolant Temp sensor? And have you welded a second bung onto your 'zorst for the wideband or have you managed to get the 413 DME to accept its input? :)

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You'll also want to machine the front of the nv intake cam if you're installing it on the exhaust side, to keep the chain in alignment.

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If you're running an Innovate it should be fairly reliable.

Yah, 110Kw @ wheels seems about right for a 3l on stock B25 tune, is about what a standard B25 produces so given how lean the poor bugger would have been running its no surprise. Was your guy in Tauranga able to accommodate for different cam specs in his tune? M50B25TU has 228º intake and exhaust from memory, I'd go looking for a B25NV intake cam (240º, 9.7mm lift) to replace your current exhaust cam and a M54B30 intake cam (244º, 9.7mm lift) to replace your current one. Not a huge jump but a nice little gain in duration and lift for WAAAAAAAY cheaper than Schricks or custom ground ones. You will need to machine about 5mm from the face of the B30 intake cam to bring the sprockets back into alignment and allow the Vanos plunger enough clearance but its pretty easily done by a machine shop.

Should also be able to accommodate the different timing on the stock DME if your tuner knows what he's doing. Or just take it all to Gavin at HiVelocity, he's done this before.

Did you miss the Intake Air temp or Coolant Temp sensor? And have you welded a second bung onto your 'zorst for the wideband or have you managed to get the 413 DME to accept its input? :)

I bought the ecu 2nd hand and the chip came with it. If you want me to see what the chip is/where its from i can open up my ecu to have a look. :)

I was getting some custom ground cams, But ill look into that idea. My m50 is a non vanos, hence the dumb as dog sh*t ECU. So do i just use the original cams as what they should look like after I machine them? And since mine is non vanos do i still use the M54 cam?

I missed the Coolant temp sensor, from my understanding if it doesn't read anything from it, it wont read from the maf/o2 etc. Ive welded an extra bung in my exhaust, i looked at getting the ecu to read from the wideband and its so much hassle. My exhaust is 3" mandrel bent with two mufflers, 1st and last exhaust ill probably do haha

You'll also want to machine the front of the nv intake cam if you're installing it on the exhaust side, to keep the chain in alignment.

I did read something about this, is the cam too long? Or is it the way the cam chain attaches that needs to be changed?

Edited by jib05

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I bought the ecu 2nd hand and the chip came with it. If you want me to see what the chip is/where its from i can open up my ecu to have a look. :)

I was getting some custom ground cams, But ill look into that idea. My m50 is a non vanos, hence the dumb as dog sh*t ECU. So do i just use the original cams as what they should look like after I machine them? And since mine is non vanos do i still use the M54 cam?

I missed the Coolant temp sensor, from my understanding if it doesn't read anything from it, it wont read from the maf/o2 etc. Ive welded an extra bung in my exhaust, i looked at getting the ecu to read from the wideband and its so much hassle. My exhaust is 3" mandrel bent with two mufflers, 1st and last exhaust ill probably do haha

I did read something about this, is the cam too long? Or is it the way the cam chain attaches that needs to be changed?

IIRC, the flange mounting face is thicker on the NV cams so it needs to go back slightly to accommodate the timing chain. NV exhaust duration is 228º as well, hence moving the NV intake to exhaust and using the B30 intake as a replacement. As you've already got an NV engine maybe just find another intake cam to replace your current exhaust cam.

Next time you're digging about it would be interesting to find out who did the chip. Gavin is basically the only one I know of that doesn't just go for full enrichment and calls it done.

What muffler have you used for the middle? Had it dB tested yet?

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IIRC, the flange mounting face is thicker on the NV cams so it needs to go back slightly to accommodate the timing chain. NV exhaust duration is 228º as well, hence moving the NV intake to exhaust and using the B30 intake as a replacement. As you've already got an NV engine maybe just find another intake cam to replace your current exhaust cam.

Next time you're digging about it would be interesting to find out who did the chip. Gavin is basically the only one I know of that doesn't just go for full enrichment and calls it done.

What muffler have you used for the middle? Had it dB tested yet?

I may just wait for ground cams, if im gonna go through the hassle of pulling cams out I may as well make it worth my while.

I mounted my ecu in the engine bay and made a plastic cover to shield from heat and water. Easy accessibility ;)

Im not sure what the db reading was when I got the lvv cert for the exhaust, he didn't mention it to me. But it passed. I built the exhaust a while ago (after the dyno but about a year ago) magnaflow comes to mind but ill have to have a look to confirm.

It would be interesting to see what the chip is, I haven't re-calibrated my wideband but it was reading 14 @ 100kph cruising in 5th roughly 2500rpms. From what I read thats pretty good?

I have refrained from opening it up for a while. You dont really need to, at 2000rpm in 2nd it struggles for traction. Fun fun.

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Have some AFR readings,

Cold start idle

20150924_160419.jpg

Cruising 100kph-ish 5th gear

20150924_160821.jpg

Accelerating in 5th gear (unknown speed)

20150924_160846.jpg

From what i read these are pretty good readings? Makes me think the idle control valve is stuffed because of the bad idle.

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What Pistons did you use? The 3l m54 Pistons in a m52 block didn't come nearly far enough up the cylinder to give any sort of gain from going to the larger displacement. They may be different in a m50 block but I doubt it? did you work out what the compression ratio was? Would be interested to see what sort of power it makes. We used m52b28 pistons and rods and machined the tops down a touch, With no other work other than headers and mild cams it makes 240hp at the wheels on pump fuel.

Rad build by the way

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What Pistons did you use? The 3l m54 Pistons in a m52 block didn't come nearly far enough up the cylinder to give any sort of gain from going to the larger displacement. They may be different in a m50 block but I doubt it? did you work out what the compression ratio was? Would be interested to see what sort of power it makes. We used m52b28 pistons and rods and machined the tops down a touch, With no other work other than headers and mild cams it makes 240hp at the wheels on pump fuel.

Rad build by the way

The piston sat 1mm below deck in the m50 block, but the cut outs for the valves were a lot smaller than m50 pistons. I did consider machining m50 pistons to suit but for the amount of material I had to remove I decided against it.

I didn't think of using m52 pistons though, I didn't have any to measure and compare. Again I should have been more thorough with this build, but you live and learn.

240hp atw would be amazing. I haven't calcualted compression yet. I really should. Weren't you selling pocketed pistons a while back?

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Yeah, they were pocketed before we assembled and noticed the piston didn't come up high enough so didnt use them.

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since getting my car road legal and stuff, all i've been doing is fixing little things like interior trim, tidying wiring and finding every excuse to take her out for a drive.

The exhaust note is spot on at 100kph cruising and in 4th doing 50kph it's pretty quiet. The deep rumble is a sound i'll never get sick of. Its not as bad on gas as i thought it would be, doing pretty much the same milage as my m20 engine (although that motor was never running right). She'll bite if you're too aggressive but if you have quick hands and a firm touch she'll go wherever you want. ;)

one of the 1st things was to change the oil (2nd oil change from run in) and put some new (to me) tires. Thanks to Marcus and Richard these were done in a timely

fashion

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A few days later i received a message from Jeff (Jeff e36 on here) asking if i could tag along with him to view an e30 he wanted as a daily. Not being one to turn down a chance to drive my e30 and view another, i asked him when i should pick him up. He bought it.

P.s his e36 widebody build should be interesting :pimp:

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A friend of mine needed a ride home from a party we were at, I was more than happy to oblige. He lives near muriwai. Needless to say, i took the long way home :D

Jeff was kind enough to come along, he has a fancy camera and manages to catch a lot of great shots to capture the reason we do the things we do.

Our Car culture.

You can follow him on FB or instagram
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/JWphotoNZ

Instagram: Instagram: @jw.photography.nz

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Had spotted a mini meet on the ECC page on facebook, and decided i needed a break from doing assignments. So, out we went again.
(Pinched this photo from Nate Teo)
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A few friends and i went to see a movie (The Martian, good movie). So again. More than happy to.
Snapped this photo, and this filter just seemed to work well.

12180885_10153263707822677_1711523674_o.

The following day we decided a nice short walk through the bush to a waterfall would be a nice way to finish the weekend. So off we went to Kitekite falls.

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When i 1st bought my e30 i got a cool pic of my wife (Girlfriend at the time) on the bonnet at this lookout near piha.

December 14 2012

aaliae30.jpg

October 26 2015 now married :P

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We had an awesome picnic lunch and a great view. I was really hot after the walk and needed to wash my face. Roy (blusplatt on here) decided he wanted some more permanent memories

12179980_10156186925205174_1625254617_n.

So we headed back to the e30, jumped in and started our journey home when...

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The diff decided to call it quits on the uphill section 3mins drive up from piha. Nature of the beast i guess...

Waited a few hours for a tow truck, and called Richard (e30spec on here) to pick up the others i had in my car. I decided to catch up on some sleep.

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And then the tow truck arrived.

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So now she's in the garage waiting for a new diff. I may just get a small case 4.1 or something to get me going and keep a locked medium case 3.46/3.64 for skid/track days.

Hopefully through summer ill be updating more often and attending more track days! Stay tuned!

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You'll just keep breaking small case diff's.

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Bloody hell, another diff!? Haha was it my old one?

Yes and yes. Haha

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You'll just keep breaking small case diff's.

I think a small case will be fine as long as I dont abuse it

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Small case diffs are usually good for around 220-240lb/ft torque - 3.46 medium case diffs are supposed to handle 420ft/lb. If you can run with a taller ratio you'll probably get away with a bit more.

As Polley said, you'll just keep munching 166mm diffs. And lockers are shockers - LSD or nothing!

Edited by Ahmedsinc

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Small case diffs are usually good for around 220-240lb/ft torque - 3.46 medium case diffs are supposed to handle 420ft/lb. If you can run with a taller ratio you'll probably get away with a bit more.

As Polley said, you'll just keep munching 166mm diffs. And lockers are shockers - LSD or nothing!

It will all depend on price atm. I dont think im doing anywhere near 240 lb/ft. I'd like a longer ratio for the skid pan/track so i can stay in gear longer. I can't justify dropping 1k+ on an lsd diff, if something cheaper comes up i may consider it. Other than the push on corner entry lock diffs aren't too bad.

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The S50B30US (which is basically what you have, minus the slightly more aggressive cams) reportedly made about 230ft/lb. You'll probably be under that mark but close enough to be putting more stress on the diff and mounts than it was ever designed to handle, welding the centre won't be helping much either. More so if you're driving it hard, which given you've mentioned track & skid pan you obviously are. Its not that hard to find 325i axles, will work out to be way cheaper than having to replace diffs every 12-18 months plus the towies charges every time it strands you on the side of the road.

Out of curiosity, what gearbox are you using?

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The S50B30US (which is basically what you have, minus the slightly more aggressive cams) reportedly made about 230ft/lb. You'll probably be under that mark but close enough to be putting more stress on the diff and mounts than it was ever designed to handle, welding the centre won't be helping much either. More so if you're driving it hard, which given you've mentioned track & skid pan you obviously are. Its not that hard to find 325i axles, will work out to be way cheaper than having to replace diffs every 12-18 months plus the towies charges every time it strands you on the side of the road.

Out of curiosity, what gearbox are you using?

I wouldn't weld the small case, i'd keep it for road duties. And get a medium case for track duties. I don't mind swapping diffs, i've had mine out so many times all the bolts come off without much pain! The diff i busted was a 3.64 medium case (from navins old 325i), the diff before was a 3.64 small case. Finding a shorter ratio small case is easier and cheaper than finding a short ratio medium case as well.

I get what you're saying, but for the price of medium case lsd diffs it's cheaper to have the free call outs haha. And i'd hate to break an lsd, i think i'd cry haha

Im running a G260

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I exploded a small case with a m50 doing a 3rd gear pull.

It seriously does not take much to break one.

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Im running a G260

Well, at least you're not so likely to bake the gearbox too then

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I exploded a small case with a m50 doing a 3rd gear pull.

It seriously does not take much to break one.

Whaaaat. That's crazy. I'd really like a short ratio medium case even if it's open. But people want like 450 for an open diff.

Well, at least you're not so likely to bake the gearbox too then

This is my 2nd G260 :o

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Ermmm, so exactly how many diffs / gearboxes has this engine killed and in what timeframe??

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Ermmm, so exactly how many diffs / gearboxes has this engine killed and in what timeframe??

1st diff went with the m20b20, launched 1st gear. Probably had too much grip for the motor. tires didn't slip so something else had to give up. had 16x7.5 215 some grippy bridgestones I think? can't remember.

1st gearbox that went in was bought off a guy that said he races e30s, and pulled it out of his race car. I had to buy another since the guy i bought my original manual conversion from sold me the wrong gearbox. It lost 1st gear in a few months.

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