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Beeker2

E36 M3 Targa Car Build

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That's going to get destroyed fairly quickly on rally stages! Aren't those splitters really hard to come by?? Why not run a replica and keep the genuine??

We are debating how long it will last.

But..It is spring loaded and will retract to flush with the bumper if pushed hard.

They are USD$240 for a genuine splitter base (excluding brackets fittings etc), plus freight / gst.

There is an AU targa rally car that also runs one, so there is a 'hope' it will last, but time will tell.

The car is also set up quite high and i tend to not cut corners, so finger crossed. Remember this is tarmac not gravel or cross.

We also have a solid sump guard right behind it which should take some of the cars weight should we botton it somewhere.

Ask me next month after Bambina.

Edited by Beeker2
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As the car has a fiberglass bonnet we have no bonnet shocks to hold the bonnet up and its not recommended to hack refit them either as it stresses the thin fiberglass.

I could have got an old broom stick, but have seen soooo many of these end in FAIL when it gets windy.

So, i've created two bonnet stays which attach/lock into the bonnet end and radiator end using the bonnet aero pins or sockets.

One is for the service crew which is longer, more robust, also has a door stopper spring in one end to give it flexibility during attachment to ensure we don't twist and damage the bonnet Aero fitting when attaching / de attaching, the other is a shorter and lighter version for storage in the boot for roadside issues.

These are my home hack prototypes.

Service crew version

AC1C2B99-732D-45BB-AD78-CE418FCE5A85_zps

1A16D328-FAF6-4CCE-9E4A-26D65EBEA5C9_zps

4F8ACD0D-0DC5-4041-B60D-F7E9A5132626_zps

I cut the Alu pole and inserted a door stopper spring in the middle, then wrapped in electrical tape to get the right level if rigidity

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The lighter weight car boot version

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hangs to underside of parcel tray (can slide in and out, no cutters required, its fits snug and doesn't seem to move or vibrate)

6AA551EC-45E5-4C60-BDBD-2B02EEF74EE0_zps

Will probably v2.0 refine over time.

Edited by Beeker2
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Finally plumbed in some tubing from the rear 1/4 window ducts to the back of the racetech 4119 seats which have a socket for this purpose.

You can definitely feel a slight breeze in your lower back at motorway speeds.

If needed we can always put an inline fan in there

You get pretty hot in a 3 layer suit, a car which is being thrashed and no insulation between you and the engine/driveline. oh, and no aircon :(

5F0D796C-81F6-4C97-B589-F3CB2EEFA65C_zps

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Who made the bonnet?

Car is starting to look pretty well set up!

We do these at work (Chicane Racewear) which may suit your air flow needs

re: Bonnet, Its a UK sourced Geoff Steel Racing Bonnet, Boot, Spoiler.

Exchange rate was better when i got them :)

RE: Seats. The 4119 is expensive, but its an excellent seat. Comfee, Rigid (3rd point mount), safe.

Edited by Beeker2

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re: Bonnet, Its a UK sourced Geoff Steel Racing Bonnet, Boot, Spoiler.

Exchange rate was better when i got them :)

RE: Seats. The 4119 is expensive, but its an excellent seat. Comfee, Rigid (3rd point mount), safe.

Ah ok, about to place a Geoff Steel order for door cards and a few other bits.

Yeh i have a 4119 in front of me, pretty awesome seat!

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Abs delete, saved 4.8kg

Morseo, on limit braking is better, will post more on that series of changes and recommendations later.

E6DD2841-C56F-4D0B-82EA-6B17514F5DEC_zps

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Do you happen to have any of the interior parts? Reat parcel tray, door cards etc?

Sent from my SM-N910U using Tapatalk

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Do you happen to have any of the interior parts? Reat parcel tray, door cards etc?

Sent from my SM-N910U using Tapatalk

all gone long ago i'm afraid

only the 3.0 stock exhaust when i get around to that.

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Hi Noel, awesome build! Apologies if this has already been asked, but did you have issues with rev cut (5200/5500rpm) when you removed the ABS?

I'm looking to do the same on my track / hill climb 328i after reading about the E36 ABS ice mode "feature"

I want to see how hard it will be to work around the cut-out from no speed sensor / wheel sensor signal before going down that path.

Cheers,

Russell

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Hi Noel, awesome build! Apologies if this has already been asked, but did you have issues with rev cut (5200/5500rpm) when you removed the ABS?

I'm looking to do the same on my track / hill climb 328i after reading about the E36 ABS ice mode "feature"

I want to see how hard it will be to work around the cut-out from no speed sensor / wheel sensor signal before going down that path.

Cheers,

Russell

When we removed the abs controller unit, but with abs still plumbed, no issues with any engine rev issues.

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On 6/26/2016 at 8:50 PM, beeker said:

When we removed the abs controller unit, but with abs still plumbed, no issues with any engine rev issues.

Been a while since my last post, but thought I would provide an update on the abs setup. We originally had it disabled (Ecu removed), but still plumbed in. We also had a Willwood bias valve to adjust rear bias (but can only reduce over oem setting, not more). 
 

As it turn out that was a bad idea. After starting to really drive the car, we found the brakes wouldn’t unlock quickly when you’re right on the limit, consider it a bit sticky to stay locked once you lock it up. Ugly really, and it actually put me off the road on a stage, luckily very minor damage. 
 

After changing my undies I went out to hamptons to repeat the over driving scenarios and managed to recreate the scenario where is doesn’t quickly unlock once you lock and then you have wait for what seems like eternity before you get brake or steering back. 

Back  to the workshop. Completely pulled the abs pump out and installed an AP racing rear bias valve (more adjustability than willwood). 
 

Then back to the track to simulate lockup’s Bingo, fixed. I can now lock up the brakes, yet release them and immediately have the brakes unlock. The on / over limit characteristics are where they should have been and now a ball of fun to live on or over the limit.

Now I’m not sure whether it was just the disabled abs pump that did it, or it was the second bias valve for the rear, or combination. But if your setup sounds anything like this, ensure you do some decent lockup testing prior to race day.  

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Awesome build thread mate. Thanks fir the update

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