E30 starter motors?

[1rotty 40]

Is there a difference between fl & pfl starter motors?

And if so how do u tell the difference

Since we put the rebuilt motor in the schnitzer the windows only work with the doors open ,the heater fan,sunroof don't work at all.

The motor is basically pre facelift but the car is facelift.

Have been thro all the fuses & electrics.

When we did the motor we had to replace the round wire fittings with spade ones on the starter.

Have been told the starter can cause theses issues

Experts only please...ta

[fhall 3]

I apologize

Edited May 12, 2014 by _fhe30

[brockie123 31]

i'd say you have 2 spade terminals on your starter and one wire. put that wire onto the bottom spade terminal (under the main power feed, to the starter motor. I bet your one is on the top terminal) this will fix all youre problems.

Edit: if you have 2 wires then switch them over.

Edited May 11, 2014 by brockie123

[hotwire 352]

Yes they are different. They have different number of teeth. It will still mesh and probably start but it'll sound pretty horrendous. Best bet is to get a PFL starter or change the flywheel/flexplate to a fl. But that's more of a job than sourcing a PFL starter. The issues with windows etc has nothing to do with it. If the windows work on the door then it sounds to be like a fuse or the relay. The sunroof is on the same fuse as the windows. Have you checked every fuse?

Wrong! Pre & facelift starters are the same as far as operation. The F/L is a reduction type & therefore a smaller housing. Either will interchange with each other.

There is a difference between M20 & M10/M40 starters though.

As far as the electrics you mention, of the two small terminals (either push on or spade) - one is the solenoid activator, the starter wont operate if this not or wrongly connected. The second is an earth circuit for the unloader relay - this is the relay that allows accessories to operate. While cranking the circuit is nullified. If this wire is left off - these electrics wont work - unless the doors are open as you mention.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2122]

Yes they are different. They have different number of teeth. It will still mesh and probably start but it'll sound pretty horrendous. Best bet is to get a PFL starter or change the flywheel/flexplate to a fl. But that's more of a job than sourcing a PFL starter. The issues with windows etc has nothing to do with it. If the windows work on the door then it sounds to be like a fuse or the relay. The sunroof is on the same fuse as the windows. Have you checked every fuse?

Total garbage.

(though really M20 ones MAY be different, but we talking about E30 ones)

[polley 916]

As hotwire said earlier, unloader relay is not operating correctly.

[B.M.W Ltd 950]

Total garbage.

(though really M20 ones MAY be different, but we talking about E30 ones)

What are you on Andy ? E30 = M20

However I do agree... total garbage to the fault Mark was having

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2122]

What are you on Andy ? E30 = M20

However I do agree... total garbage to the fault Mark was having

sorry, missed the word "early" ones. like E21 E28

[1rotty 40]

Wrong! Pre & facelift starters are the same as far as operation. The F/L is a reduction type & therefore a smaller housing. Either will interchange with each other.

There is a difference between M20 & M10/M40 starters though.

As far as the electrics you mention, of the two small terminals (either push on or spade) - one is the solenoid activator, the starter wont operate if this not or wrongly connected. The second is an earth circuit for the unloader relay - this is the relay that allows accessories to operate. While cranking the circuit is nullified. If this wire is left off - these electrics wont work - unless the doors are open as you mention.

Thanks Grant.....I'll check it out

Andy... I owe u a starter haha