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_ethrty-Andy_

Friseur Auto

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Easy solution would be to swap the guts of a medium case 3.73 as used in the jap 325i autos. I don't have direct experience with one behind a ZF manual but in talking to Kayne Barrie a long time ago he did point out that first gear becomes basically useless with anything shorter than a 3.46:1. The E30 boxes with overdrives 5th also have much taller 1-4th gears so it will have a fair bit of impact when it comes to getting the best all round ratio for the final drive.

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yes I agree i would fold on appropriately priced 3.64, unfortunately they are popular with E30 guys and priced high, whereas 3.4 are worth much less.

this build does have an emphasis on bang for buck to get me out and having some fun. if i am a few seconds slower than someone else or what i could be is not relevant.

spending $700 or $1000k on a diff is half my budget, which i am just nudging the top half at the moment.

having said that, the 4.4 diff in there is not even remotely usable with this engine and gearbox and has got to go

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If you can borrow the right tools swapping R&P sets can be a really rewarding project. You've probably already seen this but there's a wealth of info here : http://www.bmw2002faq.com/_/technical-articles/engine-and-drivetrain/strongest-2002-limited-slip-differential-build-r74

Can the ti subframe be altered to accept an E36 diff at all? I've never been underneath an E30 to compare notes

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If you can borrow the right tools swapping R&P sets can be a really rewarding project. You've probably already seen this but there's a wealth of info here : http://www.bmw2002faq.com/_/technical-articles/engine-and-drivetrain/strongest-2002-limited-slip-differential-build-r74

Can the ti subframe be altered to accept an E36 diff at all? I've never been underneath an E30 to compare notes

not feasibly,

however if one wanted to do so, presumably because they are after dual mounts, i saw last week there is a crowd in the US in the prototype stages of producing rear covers for the E30 diffs, presumably with the increase in V8 and S54 swaps being done to E30s people are ripping their floors and subframes out. No reason this couldn't be made compatible with the compact floor

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not feasibly,

however if one wanted to do so, presumably because they are after dual mounts, i saw last week there is a crowd in the US in the prototype stages of producing rear covers for the E30 diffs, presumably with the increase in V8 and S54 swaps being done to E30s people are ripping their floors and subframes out. No reason this couldn't be made compatible with the compact floor

Sounds similar to something Garagistic offers:

http://store.garagistic.com/e30-performance-parts/e30-secondary-diff-mount

e30-secondary-diff-mount-double%20(13)-5

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Pity!

Sounds expensive though - I suspect the race series rules might make using a solution like that a little difficult too?

If you can find someone with the tools it'd be a fun project to tackle, quite pricey bits of kit to buy for a one-off project.

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not sure if thats the same product or not but appears to be. perhaps they were further along than i thought or it was an old thread!

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not a major update really, have spent some time away from the car

had new years eve at the beach plus a few days to recover back home then been in Tuaranga for a week.

all driving in the E38, done over 3000 kms in it now, very pleased with it.

Anyways, while i was away, left it with a mate of mine to build the rear section of the exhaust.

Made up a plan of what to do and brought some parts. It is just merged after stock front section and runs single the rest of the way to keep cost and complexity down. will go back and spend a bit of coin here later down the line and make it a proper dual system.

We found we needed to heat up the X pipe of the front section and bend it down so its pointing underneath the rear subframe instead of at it. has worked well, have to put heaps of heat on it so that it bends nicely. No picture as i wasnt there when he did it.

supplies

9AD48096-0E5F-4BDA-AEC9-372F1DC30266_zps

finished rear

429AAC29-5941-4986-B791-79871A0B8D20_zps

this picture shows the tips, there is a very poor selection available from places without importing. will make sure i get something nicer when i build another exhaust later down the line.

49578E1B-5499-463C-B6AC-0B029F0C5A16_zps

Also a picture of the factory fitted South African sump garud (from my SA 325i parts car) for anyone interested. you can also see the factory 328i front section of the exhaust.

DEF56E45-7995-4337-AC7C-F39D47EC3D6E_zps

Also picked up the side trim from one of Brents compact parts cars so have nice M trim on it now.

951E58EF-029C-4F69-ACDB-9A658E30E789_zps

Managed to pick up a 3.4:1 ratio open diff for it too. have shopped around to find an LSD center for it, but the various people with them in NZ want far too much for them. I appreciate they are getting rarer by the week and in high demand but seriously silly what some people are asking. there are worn out unknown kms one for only a few hundred less than a brand new aftermarket one from overseas.

Rather spend the money on a set of semi slicks for all four wheels, will probably do more for handling than an LSD anyway i would think.

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there are worn out unknown kms one for only a few hundred less than a brand new aftermarket one from overseas.

Rather spend the money on a set of semi slicks for all four wheels, will probably do more for handling than an LSD anyway i would think.

You'll get sick of spinning the inside wheel out of corners pretty quick with an open diff.

Are you talking about the chinese copys of a torsen diff?

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no some crowd in the US that make them. there are plenty of people on various US BMW sites that seem to be happy with them.

you are probably right i need to suck it up and go OEM, but $700 for a worn out 250 mile diff that is little more than an open anyways is hard to wear.

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superb progress, Andy. What's left to do, and where are you at wrt budget?

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Yeah it sucks, then another 1500 or so top have it rebuilt and upgraded.

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Should try find a way shorter diff. I run a 3.73 and a zf and have 1000 odd Rpm left in fifth at the front straight at Hampton downs. Think it hits around 200 on a very good day.

Also like Troy said, get an LSD.

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Should try find a way shorter diff. I run a 3.73 and a zf and have 1000 odd Rpm left in fifth at the front straight at Hampton downs. Think it hits around 200 on a very good day.

Also like Troy said, get an LSD.

What ratio were you thinking?

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I was running a 3.15:1 before a clutch pack bolt head broke off. If I end up fixing it I'll go to a 2.97 : 1. The LSD was completely rebuilt about 1,500 k before this happened. I'm running a getrag 250G which is not an overdrive gearbox...it's 1:1

Edited by *Glenn*
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Should try find a way shorter diff. I run a 3.73 and a zf and have 1000 odd Rpm left in fifth at the front straight at Hampton downs. Think it hits around 200 on a very good day.

Also like Troy said, get an LSD.

sounds good must make your 1st and 2nd pretty useless tho?

also isnt yours 2L not 2.8?

Will see how it feels with the 3.4 for now, thats another advantage to not building it into a LSD just yet, can always sell the 3.4 and pick up a 3.6 or 3.7 later on, also much easier to find them already built up as LSDs.

Edited by _Ethrty-Andy_

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It's a 3l with 240hp at the wheels. Never use first apart from loading it on to the trailer. Take off in second with the rev cut on link.

If it's just a fun car it should be fine if you're not fighting for tenths of a second. I think you'll soon get extremely bored of spinning inside wheels.

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Take off in second with the rev cut on link.

Do you have a lower rev limiter set for launch or are you sitting on the main limiter?

I want to try it but I'm scared something will break.

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Do you have a lower rev limiter set for launch or are you sitting on the main limiter?

I want to try it but I'm scared something will break.

I had a 3.91 with ZF 5 speed on my E30 race car with S50b32. 2nd gear launches weren't a problem but top speed was 220km/h @ 7400rpm, this became a problem when I got more power as I started running out of revs in 5th.

Now I have 3.91 with Getrag 6 speed I can idle at 3000rpm at 100km/h on the motorway, top speed 260km/h. The best thing is it's like having a close ratio dog leg 5 speed as 2,3,4,5,6 are all used on the track with the most used gears being in a H pattern.

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Do you have a lower rev limiter set for launch or are you sitting on the main limiter?

I want to try it but I'm scared something will break.

I just wired a push switch to one of the inputs and set it as launch control. Just hold the button down and it sets the limit at around 4000, I can't remember what it was exactly but it took a while to find the sweet spot. Just take finger off the button when it's got traction and the limiter goes away. Ideally you would wire a switch to clutch and set it up properly but I don't have that sort of ability ha. It was useless trying to use the launch control in first also.

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I had a 3.91 with ZF 5 speed on my E30 race car with S50b32. 2nd gear launches weren't a problem but top speed was 220km/h @ 7400rpm, this became a problem when I got more power as I started running out of revs in 5th.

Now I have 3.91 with Getrag 6 speed I can idle at 3000rpm at 100km/h on the motorway, top speed 260km/h. The best thing is it's like having a close ratio dog leg 5 speed as 2,3,4,5,6 are all used on the track with the most used gears being in a H pattern.

Was just thinking about this also. It's surprising how fast people think they will get on the track. I remember when that little weasel Jack reckoned his e30 car would get to 240 at the old puke.

Remember, it's a budget build on a 20 year old car using a standard engine. I'm not trying to burst your bubble at all, I did the exact same thing as you when I first started my build and it spiralled out of control haha.

If you set yourself a realistic target, you won't be disappointed further down the track, no pun intended.

200 kph is fn fast man!

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Agreed, 200kph is quite quick and apart from old puke I dont think there would be many situation where you need it. Even Targa is limited. Jamez' 3.9x diff is quite fun with the 6 speed box. But its same as my 3.15 + 5pd in the end in a drag race.

Nice not having to change gear over turn 3 in hampton and unstanble the car though.

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I just wired a push switch to one of the inputs and set it as launch control. Just hold the button down and it sets the limit at around 4000, I can't remember what it was exactly but it took a while to find the sweet spot. Just take finger off the button when it's got traction and the limiter goes away. Ideally you would wire a switch to clutch and set it up properly but I don't have that sort of ability ha. It was useless trying to use the launch control in first also.

I was gonna do something similar, was worried about breaking axles though.

I'm running a 3.64, g240 so has over drive fifth gear. I'd have to check data logs but I'm hoping it would be over 200 clicks down hamptons

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come test drive ians one when your up here next time

2.8l getrag box , 3.64 lsd , seams pretty good to me

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oh wow 8000th post. its a wonder i build any cars being on here all the time lol.

yep ash just a car to have fun in. Not serious by any means. i dont have the means to run or maintain a serious race car.

drove it with the 3.4 today, its a hell of a lot better than the 4.5!

i am doing Manfeild next weekend, and if it doesnt break then Pukekohe test day on the 5th (yall should bring your cars too).

after than should get a feel for how the gears feel to me and can always make it a bit shorter!

James, did you have to modify the floor in the compact to fit the medium case? it fits but its fkn close!

i should really put the M50 manifold/throttle body etc on and swap all that over before tracking it but probably wont have time, was planning to do it tomorrow but tied up now. will just use the M52 one as it is now for the mean time i guess

----

also was going to post an update today anyways

Spent all day on the car today, i woke up at 7.30 for some reason, surprisingly chirpy for that time but anyways got into it. had the 3.4 Z3 diff in by about 1030 or so. new Penrite oil in the back, and also since the back was in the air, finally swapped the unknown age brake fluid for Penrite raceing brake fluid. possible to do the front while the car is on the ground. nice to know all fluids in the car all all new now, and pedal has a bit of feed back behind it. ABS is still installed and will stay that way. cant see any reason to delete it.

took it for a drive over the wainuiomata hill road (good test road about 3 minutes from my house). Pulled very well, but i will admit was hoping it would pull a bit harder. brakes are very good, probably the best stopping car i have had, has the 328i brakes in the front, standard compact in the back. came back over the hill via work had to pick some stuff up and then called in at Macaulay Metals on the way back home.

Car weighs 1090kg, again bit of a dissapointment as i was hoping it would be sub 1Tonne, but i really had no idea what it would be.

Fuel tank is very nearly completely full, have only done about 15km in the car from full, and me out of the car.

Came back, looked for more stuff to pull out. found a speaker i had missed, sun roof drains, some more airbag stuff, rear seat mountings, etc so probably 1080 now.

Then decided i needed some happyness from the car today, so i sanded back the peeling clear coat above both right hand wheels and dealt with that. You may have noticed all my photos above are of the left side of the vehicle. the car was parked with the left side against the wall for 6 years or so, so that side is very good, the other side all sun faded. anyway, simple, used 80 grit sand paper to get the worst off, and then 320 grit to smooth it out. Colour matched rattle cans 2 coats and 2 coats of clear, did a sort of colour blend. Hey its a racecar doesnt need to be perfect, and is a dam site better than peeling clear coat.

Also colour matched a passengers side mirror off my parts car and put that on so i have mirrors again. Still not into my second can of calypso paint, so sanded back the roof and re did that. Also painted the side skirts so they are colour matched, and also the B pillars of the doors.

got to the bottom of my second can of paint, but now the bonnet is letting the car down, i have tried cutting and polishing that in the past to no avail, so will get another calypso red can at some stage and respray the bonnet too.

Method is very ameteur hour i know, but its better than it was, and it needs to look tidy enough. $5k on a respray job or $80 on some rattle cans. no brainer.

Then finished tidying up all the wiring in the interior from all the various things unplugged etc, everything all nicely pinned back. have moved the hazard switch into the stereo hole, just waiting on a stereo delete panel to arrive and will get that mounted correctly.

could loose more weight by stripping out all the wiring for all the features of the cars but as yet the car still has 100% of its factory wiring. just cant be bothered pulling it out. maybe later.

So current things left to go are

- make a drivers door card

- move drivers seat more toward middle of the car

- sticky tyres (ball is rolling in two places on that)

- M50 manifold swap if i can find the time. need to do some more research first

- most importantly, Have fun and enjoy my sub $2k track hack

oh buy the way to answer question above, rough count the car owes me $1700 there abouts currently, couldnt have got thier without people on here being very generous donating all sorts of bits to the cause, others selling me bits very cheap etc to help build the sub $2k car

also doing it the more labour intensive way by buying parts cars and selling stuff off helps to offset a lot too. you need the space to do that of course.

but will post a total build price later on.

Edited by _Ethrty-Andy_

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