jin108

MHD flash app. Anyone tried this yet?

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Anyone using this in NZ yet? Im waiting for my cables to arrive from HK to test but stage 1 map should easily give you 50hp. Stage 2 with FMIC/downpipes close to 100 based on latest post from MHD. All for less than USD100.

App: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mhd.flasher.n54&hl=en

Discussion: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1096247 and http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29236

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Have heard about tunes from "Wedge" - few blown engines etc - search forums etc

If I was going to go a pro-tune route - would probably go with a Cobb backend flash (PTF ProTune) with my JB4

I'm just running the BMS backend flash with my JB4

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I know wedge does custom tunes but havent heard about blown motors. Will do some forum searching but i would think a blown motor would be caused by not logging and using too aggressive tune without supporting mods.

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Why?

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I know wedge does custom tunes but havent heard about blown motors. Will do some forum searching but i would think a blown motor would be caused by not logging and using too aggressive tune without supporting mods.

http://www.bimmerboost.com/showthread.php?69575-Wedge-tunes-please-be-careful-people

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Hey suresh ive been keeping up with that. For a contrast read the corresponding E90post thread. Forum wars and nail biting drama at its finest! Anyway the OTS maps available on MHD are pretty tame and safe.

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Ive been getting a lot of PMs asking about the MHD app so best if i update this thread with my comments.

With the app you can flash OTS maps which are by all accounts very safe and conservative. You can also flash a custom map or backend map to use in conjunction with JB 4.

If you are just starting out its better to get MHD as its cheaper than all the other options, easier to use and is constantly being updated. Cobb has ceased new development of their maps. And arguably its better than JB4 as its not a piggyback but a ecu flash.

MHD is tied to your phone, google account and vehicle. So if you ever sell your car the app becomes useless to you. But, if you purchase on a standalone device and google account you can onsell it with your car. Cheap android devices are easily available.

I bought cheap ebay cables which worked for me. No guarantee they will for you too but these are the cables I got:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251698392855

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-USB-Male-To-USB-2-0-Female-OTG-Adapter-Cable-For-Samsung-Galaxy-S3-S4-Mini-/151532877345?hash=item2348103621:g:sCUAAOSwGzlTxcKg

I recommend you get a 3-way OTG cable not the single. That way you can charge your phone through the USB port at the same time you are logging.

When first flashing I had a charger hooked up but its not necessary if you have a good battery.
Before you flash backup the ECU as you cant do this later. Or you can just flash to map 0 if you want to go to stock if you dont have the ECU backup to flash back.
Once the car is flashed then its time to start logging. Go WOT from 2500RPM in 3rd gear then shift to 4th at 6000RPM and keep going for a bit (do this discretely as you will be going well over 100kms at 6000RPM in 3rd - i think 160 or so). Upload results to datazap and post on E90forum for feedback. Using a higher boost map will show up all the weak points in your car and you are very likely to get limp mode / check engine light. MHD can read codes too which will help.
In my case I had vacuum leaks and boost leaks. Replaced all the vacuum lines and cleaned out the diverter valves and disconnected to get a bov sound.
Im running the Stage 1 FMIC map although I dont have a FMIC. In summer will either get FMIC or use a less aggresive map. This map targets 15psi (stock is 8 psi) and totally transforms the car.
Heres some old logs I took using the St 1 FMIC map - im comfortable using this with no aftermarket FMIC as the IATs are nice and low and not getting any timing corrections.
Any questions id be happy to try and answer them. Enjoy!
Edited by jin108

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That was really helpful. I am planning on doing this soon. Will keep you guys updated on the results.

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Finally got a chance to flash my car with the MHD stage 1 map (95 ron). Below is my experience. As I am new to the tuning world everything was a learning to me.

Most important thing before you flash: Make sure your battery is healthy, if not hook up to a good battery charger ( min 8 amp).

I did not realise that my car battery was very weak and the 12v 4 amp Battery Charger (snap on) was not sufficient enough to maintain a constant voltage. As a result the flash ended up with a write error and my car was left inoperable. My car did not start and was showing hell a lot of error codes.

The K+Dcan cable nor any of the OBD2 diagnostic scan tool no more was getting connected to the ECU .

After reading a few forums I realized that my ECU must have gone to the recovery mode and not letting any of tools to get connected to it.

I then disconnected the negative terminal of the battery for like 5 mins , connected back again and then tried connecting my cables. Thank God that I was able to connect back again.

This time I changed my car battery to a new one and then used a better battery charger. The flash went good and got completed in 18 to 20 mins.

Was exited and wanted to see how the car pulled after the flash. To my bad luck the minute I was WOT on the 3rd gear around 4k rpm, I got my engine light on and the car started shaking and ran very roughly. I used MHD to read the codes and saw that I had a misfires on the 5th Cylinder.

In addition to this I also got a 2FA3 - (Code Missing) which I have no idea what caused. I have been reading forums and did not get proper diagnostic reason.

I am planning on changing all of my spark plugs today ( and check the coils on the 5th cylinder). Hopefully the 2FA3 goes off after that.

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Ive been getting a lot of PMs asking about the MHD app so best if i update this thread with my comments.

With the app you can flash OTS maps which are by all accounts very safe and conservative. You can also flash a custom map or backend map to use in conjunction with JB 4.

If you are just starting out its better to get MHD as its cheaper than all the other options, easier to use and is constantly being updated. Cobb has ceased new development of their maps. And arguably its better than JB4 as its not a piggyback but a ecu flash.

MHD is tied to your phone, google account and vehicle. So if you ever sell your car the app becomes useless to you. But, if you purchase on a standalone device and google account you can onsell it with your car. Cheap android devices are easily available.

I bought cheap ebay cables which worked for me. No guarantee they will for you too but these are the cables I got:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251698392855

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-USB-Male-To-USB-2-0-Female-OTG-Adapter-Cable-For-Samsung-Galaxy-S3-S4-Mini-/151532877345?hash=item2348103621:g:sCUAAOSwGzlTxcKg

I recommend you get a 3-way OTG cable not the single. That way you can charge your phone through the USB port at the same time you are logging.

When first flashing I had a charger hooked up but its not necessary if you have a good battery.
Before you flash backup the ECU as you cant do this later. Or you can just flash to map 0 if you want to go to stock if you dont have the ECU backup to flash back.
Once the car is flashed then its time to start logging. Go WOT from 2500RPM in 3rd gear then shift to 4th at 6000RPM and keep going for a bit (do this discretely as you will be going well over 100kms at 6000RPM in 3rd - i think 160 or so). Upload results to datazap and post on E90forum for feedback. Using a higher boost map will show up all the weak points in your car and you are very likely to get limp mode / check engine light. MHD can read codes too which will help.
In my case I had vacuum leaks and boost leaks. Replaced all the vacuum lines and cleaned out the diverter valves and disconnected to get a bov sound.
Im running the Stage 1 FMIC map although I dont have a FMIC. In summer will either get FMIC or use a less aggresive map. This map targets 15psi (stock is 8 psi) and totally transforms the car.
Heres some old logs I took using the St 1 FMIC map - im comfortable using this with no aftermarket FMIC as the IATs are nice and low and not getting any timing corrections.
Any questions id be happy to try and answer them. Enjoy!

Hello Drew, I noticed that my boost was somewhere around negative -8 psi at idle and only stared to go positive around 2k rpm in second. Is this something similar that you noticed in your car after the flash ?

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Getting a CEL after a tune is the norm rather than the exception.

Swap the #5 coil with another and see if the code follows the coil. Same thing happened to me and just bought a new coil off ebay. You might not need to change plugs of there are no more codes or timing corrections.

-8 psi is normal just the way it reads boost pressure. Mine is the same.

2FA3 code i don't know what it is think it's nothing. I have this and lots of others but doesn't seem to do anything. Looked it up in the Bentley manual also told me nothing. Wouldn't worry about it. From memory it might have something to do with the ecu being updated and triggering the code when you get CEL.

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Thanks.

It was the coil. After I replaced it my car ran good. Scanned for error codes and the 2FA3 disappeared. I too plugged off the recir valves to get the blow of valve sound. Not really loud but sounds nice.

The tune was definitely better than the stock and worth the money. The 2nd gear was kind of conservative , did not feel much of a difference but from the 3rd was where I felt the car getting pushed harder. The gear changes and the power delivery were smooth. The stage 1 91 oct map gave a max boost of around 14 psi.

I use BP 98 for gas and I was wondering if I should use the Stage 1 93 oct variant map, if that would give me a better edge.

Looking forward to get an aftermarket charge pipe with bov and a fmic during summer.

I will be logging values and might post in the forums for feedback.

Having fun with the new tune at the moment :)

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I use the St 1 98RON map (with BP 98). There is a noticeable difference with the 95RON map, not huge but its there.

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I use the St 1 98RON map (with BP 98). There is a noticeable difference with the 95RON map, not huge but its there.

I've joined the club and flashed this today too. Really livened the car up and feels the way God intended...awesome. Mind you, my last car was a little 1.8t Polo running 21psi.

The initial flash process for me took 38 minutes. I had the car hooked up to an 8 amp battery charger and also pulled the fuse for the LP fuel pump, just in case, as it was running constantly. No issue with using a standard OTG cable for me...didn't zap much charge from the phone...it's in airplane mode for the flash process.

I too am curious about whether running stage 1 + fmic would be ok sans fmic...especially in our climate. Anyway, for now stage 1 98RON is a nice enough improvement over stock for me. Mine's been lowered and stiffened a bit, so the lack of LSD is becoming a real limitation.

Next step...Alpina TCU flash. What Trans are you guys running?

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Another MHD tuned 335i , great :) and congrats . Mines an AT by the way.

If it was me, I will wait until I upgrade my fmic, before using the fmic+1 map, especially as it is getting hot these days.

Fmic+1 tune has a bit higher boost psi level and i suspect that it may stress the engine.

My year and month (2007 , 08) has a welded diff unlike the bolted ones in the others, so getting an LSD installed is going to be a bit difficult. I will worry about this later after i go fbo.

I have heard good reviews about the Alpina.

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Loaded the Alpina flash the other day and it's excellent. Never thought I would say this, but this auto, with the paddles and this flash, I think I actually prefer over a manual :-)

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Alpina Transmission

Naki which Alpina did you flash? There are 2. One is common, the other is said to be slightly smoother (higher RPM shift)

MHD Flash

I flash MHD stage 1 stock (98 ron) today.
I set the Turbo Rattle fix to Minimum Rattle (More lag) as I heard people complain.

I have emailed the MHD creator to ask for clarification on performance difference with Turbo Rattle fix on

Edited by fatjoe

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Good on ya. Sorry, just got back to you re the cable. What are your thoughts on the tune? I don't get out of town very often but did earlier this week and throughly enjoyed it (the MHD power boost).

I've got the more commonly used Alpina Trans flash. Very happy with its behaviour round town short shifting at 1500 - 1600rpm in D. Usually happy to drive lazily on the daily commute (2.2 kms to work lol) but with the MHD there's still plenty of go when required and it will still do higher revs when given some boot. Maybe that would be more of a problem on the standard ECU flash.

Out in the twisties it's awesome with the paddles, shifting very quickly. Haven't had much time yet in S mode but should be good. The only thing I noticed the other day is when you leave it in D and try to get a hurry on, it sometimes shifts a bit prematurely. S would negate this of course but then you need to go back to D in order for it to use 6th. I'll try the other Alpina flash when I get a chance...it sounds promising.

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Okay update

I flashed MHD again today

* Linear throttle

* turbo rattle fix 50%

I tried wide open throttle on motorway and at around 3/4k I got the sudden kick of power which got the car moving.

Braked instantly and realized that is a fair amount of power. So in my opinion I haven't really seen much benefit under 60kmh in terms of 0-50kmh but yes I think 80-100 has improved.

Alpina transmission

Please do me a favour monitor your fuel usage before and after.

I think the newer alpina uses more fuel in D drive around town. I am currently 12.3L/100km average mix highway and suburb.

Will switch back to common alpina which shifts earlier and test.

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Quote

"ZB # are incremental, and larger numbers are the newer files. 7615835 is the last Alpina B3s transmission FLASH that was released and has a direct impact on torque limiters. The Alpina FLASH is listed as an E90 N54B30ATL ECE FLASH and was released in 2010. It is the most recent N54 AT specific transmission FLASH that has been released for the GS19.11.0 transmission, again this is specific to the N54.

All of the 760xxxx files were done in 2009.

There are two older FLASHES you can try. 7603537 and 7603535... Both are E90 N54B30ATL ECE FLASHES.

7603527 is a FLASH for the E82 N54B30ATL and release in 2009, so I'm not sure how anyone made the assumption it was a 2011 sport flash.

7603541 is from an E89 N52B30OL. Not even an N54 transmission flash.

7601494 is also an E89 N52B30OL. Still not an N54 transmission flash.

There are a lot of GKE215 ZB#'s you can play with. Not all were designed for making the power our cars make. I have to laugh when people without any knowledge of what they are talking about release old ZB#s as newer numbers as if they found something new. Depending on the power you are making, chances are you'll have torque limiters in higher gears or your clutch pack will slip because the line pressure isn't high enough"

Edited by mod335
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Interesting stuff. I think I'm running 7615835 but now I'll have to check!

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Okay update

I flashed MHD again today

* Linear throttle

* turbo rattle fix 50%

I tried wide open throttle on motorway and at around 3/4k I got the sudden kick of power which got the car moving.

Braked instantly and realized that is a fair amount of power. So in my opinion I haven't really seen much benefit under 60kmh in terms of 0-50kmh but yes I think 80-100 has improved.

Just occurred to me that you would probably be running the latest version, which limits boost by gear...ie the first 2 or 3 gears have boost limited in order to put the juice to the floor more efficiently and nanny the trans. Maybe that's why you aren't getting the initial hit you were expecting?

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Did you guys flash alpina yourselves or have someone do it for you? If so who please and roughly how much.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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