RedRocketTi

Project 328Ti

60 posts in this topic

So this week I am beginning my rather ambitious project of dumping a m52B28 engine and Getrag manual box into what was originally my 1997 BMW 318Ti running an M44 and 4 speed auto (Slushbox). I have owned the car for 7 years and this has been a project I have always wanted to undertake, I will be posting photos of the build process and trying to document most of the stuff that I end up doing.

I have sourced a donor car, it is a 1993 325i sedan, however someone in its past has put in an alloy block m52b28 along with an m50 intake manifold, K&N cold air box, custom headers and exhaust. I am picking the car up this weekend so will only be able to confirm once I have it if it has undertaken an OBD1 conversion or if the older chassis was swapped out to OBD2. Once I have the donor car I will have everything required to do the swap except for a diff that is suitable, currently on the hunt for a Z3 diff to mate up to my Getrag 5 speed. If anyone has any suggestions on the best ratios to choose from let me know thanks :)

If anyone else has experience in doing this swap let me know any potential problems that you guys faced, I will also be swapping the larger front rotors and calipers from the sedan over to the Ti, this is an easy swap in comparison to everything else. More to come and hopefully I can have her all done up in time to take it around Ruapuna on the 29th of June :)

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I did this swap about 8 months ago.

In my experience bolting the engine and everything is all piece of cake. however you are adding an extra layer of complexity because you are using a car that is already swapped as a donor, the person who swapped that might have done things differently to "the way bmw would have done it"

Three things i found to be careful around or that you should know:

  • make sure you swap the EWS modules over BEFORE you start the car. this is the DME, the chip in the key, and one module either side of the dash.
  • You want a loom from a manual car ideally that won't have all the automatic stuff in it. I know you said you are putting in an M52 manual, but are you using a conversion kit or is the car a factory manual already? The engine plug is the same regardless of manual or auto, but the secondary plug holds all the auxiliary stuff like traction and cruise control, ABS, and talks to the trans, and in my case was pinned differently. If you don't want any of that stuff then leave the second plug disconnected. If its a road car you will need to do a bit of research in this area and make sure it lines up as you don't want to drive around with a christmas tree on the dash. Oh yeah, you also need to put in the 6 cylinder cluster from your donor car, hopefully this is also 328 and not 325
  • The 325 exhaust is crap, hopefully they have fitted the 328i exhaust to the car. if so, the front section bolts in, make sure you fit O2 sensors if the DME is looking for them on the donor car. you will need to put a slight bend in the middle by heating a pulling it down so that you have enough access for your rear section. From there, the rear is custom. I am parting out my race car soon and going back to an E30 so will have a custom rear section available that will bolt in if you are interested.

Have a look at my project thread here: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/50304-friseur-auto/?hl=friseur i will do another update on it this afternoon

welcome to ask for more information if you need it

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Cheers man! I am picking the car up tomorrow night so will finally get it to have a proper look about it, as far as swapping the EWS Antenna under the dash is that essential? Or is just the DME and EWS module sufficient? I will pull the DME out over the weekend and check what version it is (Hopefully the version that didn't include EWS for ease of use). As far as the exhaust goes, this has tubular extractors fitted along with a twin pipe system straight an aftermarket muffler. Will fitting drive shaft hoops for cert be able to be easily fitted while trying to keep as much of this system exhaust in tact as possible. As far as running a diff goes, that has been the hardest thing to track down so far, I have a lead on a Z3 2.8 Auto diff but I just need to make sure the ratio is correct before splashing out on it, or if going the route of an E30 diff how much work is involved in swapping the output flanges over to use the Ti's standard drive shafts. And I could be interested in your rear section of exhaust, where are you located in NZ? As an estimate how long would you expect it to take 4-5 people to pull the motor + box from the Ti and have the 6 banger all lined up? I am thinking a weekend possibly maybe 2, or is that too ambitious? Its awesome to find someone who has done the swap in the past!

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(making it easier for those who want to answer your million questions)

as far as swapping the EWS Antenna under the dash is that essential? Or is just the DME and EWS module sufficient? I will pull the DME out over the weekend and check what version it is (Hopefully the version that didn't include EWS for ease of use).

As far as the exhaust goes, this has tubular extractors fitted along with a twin pipe system straight an aftermarket muffler. Will fitting drive shaft hoops for cert be able to be easily fitted while trying to keep as much of this system exhaust in tact as possible.

As far as running a diff goes, that has been the hardest thing to track down so far, I have a lead on a Z3 2.8 Auto diff but I just need to make sure the ratio is correct before splashing out on it, or if going the route of an E30 diff how much work is involved in swapping the output flanges over to use the Ti's standard drive shafts.

And I could be interested in your rear section of exhaust, where are you located in NZ?

As an estimate how long would you expect it to take 4-5 people to pull the motor + box from the Ti and have the 6 banger all lined up? I am thinking a weekend possibly maybe 2, or is that too ambitious?

Edited by QUBE

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(making it easier for those who want to answer your million questions)

as far as swapping the EWS Antenna under the dash is that essential? Or is just the DME and EWS module sufficient? I will pull the DME out over the weekend and check what version it is (Hopefully the version that didn't include EWS for ease of use).

I swap the little module the antenna clicks into. not sure if needed or not, but its part of the EWS system. Get it wrong and it will be out of sync the next time you try and start the car. DME and EWS module and Key chip are defines. i see it as a 4 piece system.

As far as the exhaust goes, this has tubular extractors fitted along with a twin pipe system straight an aftermarket muffler. Will fitting drive shaft hoops for cert be able to be easily fitted while trying to keep as much of this system exhaust in tact as possible.

extractors will 100% work assuming both cars are RHD. you will be able to use the front half of the exhaust but you will need to put a bend in the middle. The rear is custom, the suspension is totally different on the compact and the exhaust has to go down and under the cross member. possibly could route over the top of the suspension if you wanted a higher ride height and maximise ground clearance. you would have to somehow limit how far the rear compressed. 99.8% of swaps would route it like OEM or E30s.

As far as running a diff goes, that has been the hardest thing to track down so far, I have a lead on a Z3 2.8 Auto diff but I just need to make sure the ratio is correct before splashing out on it, or if going the route of an E30 diff how much work is involved in swapping the output flanges over to use the Ti's standard drive shafts.

Diff choice largely depends on what gearbox you are running. the ZF as mated OEM to a 328i has a 1:1 5th gear so you need a taller ratio. you want some where between 3.1 and 3.7, i would lean toward 3.1 end for a road car. i am using a 3.4 diff from a 2.8 manual Z3, and i can max out the car down the back straight of manfeild. if you want to be super quick to 100 go lower, but you will run out of puff up top. James runs a 3.9 but has a 6 speed ZF M3 gearbox. If you are using a Getrag box you would also be nearer the later 3.xs as well as their 5th gear is over drive.

And I could be interested in your rear section of exhaust, where are you located in NZ?

wellington, but i send pallets too and from Christchurch regularly so we can sort something out.

As an estimate how long would you expect it to take 4-5 people to pull the motor + box from the Ti and have the 6 banger all lined up? I am thinking a weekend possibly maybe 2, or is that too ambitious?

i can have it out in 4 hours from a driving car to engine on the floor, on my own, and i don't have a hoist, BUT i have done it many times before so i know exactly what i am dealing with. 4 or 5 people will slow you down, 2 will be enough, i do everything on my own. nothing extra on these cars to pull than usual. normal stuff, drive shaft, trans linkage, exhaust, reverse switch, then fuel lines, battery cable, unclip DME, power steering hoses and radiator and its out. on the E36 you need to either seperate the trans from the gearbox to pull it out, or take off the front of the car. taking the front off is usually easier, especially without a hoist.

Its really not that hard at all if you have a some logic and a good tool kit including the required torx bits and inverse-torx sockets

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have a read through my thread, i tried to detail as much as needed so someone can follow in my footsteps as there was no writeup on bimmersport prior to that. should answer a lot of your questions and those i know you are yet to ask.

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Okay so last night I managed to pick up the donor car! From looking at the key and the fact that its a 1993 body it leads me to believe that its got an older DME (possibly red 413) without EWS, however that will be fully confirmed when I pull the DME out of the car. The bushings for the shift linkage need done, and will do a full fluid swap on the manual box when I get it all out of the car. I will be using a hoist and will be taking the front end off the car for the removal.

The intake noise is amazing! And the car has plenty of power, definitely going to be a quick car once the swap is complete! Anyway I have already managed to sell a few bits from the interior so currently the car owes me $400, not too shabby!!!

_Ethrty-Andy_ I read your project write up, some awesome info in there! I have managed to source myself a 2.8L Z3 3.65 Diff that will be going into the Ti along with the swap too!

Here are some pics of how it currently sits, not the tidiest on the outside however all the bits that I want are pretty mint!

ACbuBXp.jpg

uRD9Uef.jpg

4zspXFZ.jpgiJqHN4G.jpg

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That looks a lot like the stock airbox with some sort of mesh block mounted to the top...Interested to see that apart.

Some cool Ti's popping up around NZ now. Looking forward to seeing this done :)

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So more of an update!

I have managed to get the car up on some axle stands and have a look underneath! I have also pulled the front end off and deleted the AC Pump! All thats left to do is to pull the engine and box out, hopefully can be done one night this week, however Im busy with the final week of the uni semester so balancing project car vs assignments is a bit of a struggle.

Things I have learnt so far:

  • This is indeed an M52B28 engine, however it is running a 413 DME and is OBD1. It has the rear O2 sensor hole plugged up and the sticker on the DME was the main giveaway.
  • The AC was regassed in 2010 by a bmw dealer. The original car is a 1993 325i auto, someone has swapped in the m52b28 and a manual gearbox at some point in its life so I am assuming this swap was done before 2010.
  • The gearbox is a GETRAG 220
  • I will need to replace the serpentine belt and possibly rocker cover gaskit
  • Kinda scary but a lot of bulbs are missing from behind the cluster...

Hopefully I can get some free time before the weekend to get the engine and box onto the ground, I will also be doing a couple of little mods such as the red needle mod to the cluster and cleaning the front glass because its kinda grubby. I am going to live without the AC system and remove all the parts associated with it for a bit of weight savings because racecar. Unless anyone is after a purple bonnet I might strip this one back and rust it out so that I have the option of runnign a rusty bonnet if I want. One last point, if anyone knows if an M54 engine and fuel rail cover will fit onto the M52 that would be great to know! Once again some progress pics to show how its all coming along!

92WFdFd.jpg

OCQdcGY.jpgCXhXk6U.jpgOkveK9P.jpg

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Okay so the swap is almost complete....

I have the engine and gearbox in place in the Ti and all bolted up. Currently facing an issue with no spark or fuel, however will try a few more ideas for fixes tomorrow or will try find myself a red label 413DME. I can get the engine cranking over by joining 2 pins on the EWS connector, however I am getting no spark and the fuel pump isnt priming. Decided to call it quits early and will try again in the morning.

This is a short update before bed, however a lot has happened and I have managed to get a few pics of it all in different stages.

cqRAPPh.jpg

The engine from the donor car was taken out on the subframe and just dragged underneath the car and out of the engine bay. As seen here a few people just got under the front of it and were able to drag it out the back of the garage into the rear yard.

X7qRRLg.jpg

The Ti was then stripped of its m44 and auto box and prepped for the 2.8L + manual box. The stuff that was swapped over was pretty quickly done, moving the hard line and slave cylinder over for the clutch and swapping the pedal boxes.

TJW3IOc.jpg

There were a lot less issues gettting the 6 banger into the hole then getting the 4 cylinder out! The 4 cylinder didnt want to go, getting caught constantly on the steering rack, the 6 pot however went straight on in without any issues at all!

BtQu40g.jpg

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TJ4vsso.jpg

Anyway that is all for now, I will make sure I post a comprehensive update when I finish everything off!!!

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Your ECU doesn't have EWS right? And vehicle does? If so, bypass the EWS module and off you go.

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Your ECU doesn't have EWS right? And vehicle does? If so, bypass the EWS module and off you go.

I have just gotten my hands onto a 413 RED DME, still no fuel or spark, so far I have removed the EWS module and jumped pins 1 and 3 together to allow for the engine to crank over, just no ignition!!!

Any hints on this would be amazing!

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going to be very hard to diagnose on the internet because your engine is not a normal M52 it is someones hack mash up of parts.

did the engine run in the last body?

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going to be very hard to diagnose on the internet because your engine is not a normal M52 it is someones hack mash up of parts. 

 

did the engine run in the last body?

.

Yes the engine did run in the last body. Essentially it's an m50 engine however slightly larger displacement. I have done some troubleshooting and have found that I have no power coming to my relays for the DME or fuel pump at all, going to try figure out why otherwise have an auto sparky coming to look at it Saturday, I would love to have it running before then tho!!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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So its all running! Finally got the engine to start! The issue I was facing was on the drivers side there were 2 cables coming out that were black and appeared identical. Naturally one would expect both of these cable to be earth wires. I was given one tip to cut back the shielding on one of the wires... and what lay beneath was a red cable! That explained why I didnt have positive power to any relays or my DME! Hooked it upto the positive terminal of the battery and all of a sudden she turned over and fired up!!!

So after that happened we proceeded to chuck the Ti onto the salvage trailer and take it to the other side of town at 9pm on a friday night to get the exhaust welded up!!! After a few hours and a few more beers we called it quits for the night and finished it off on saturday! Got all the fluids bled through and shes running mint!

I managed to get it all done in time for the euro meetup here in Chch on Sunday! The 4.44 diff with the getrag box means Im pulling close to 4k rpm at 100kph in 5th :P snf boy does the 2.8 have some pull! The M50 intake manifold and chipped ECU mean that its leathal in 2nd gear! In saying that I have already broken a rear cv, still on the lookout for a new medium case diff in a better ratio and potentially a ZF box if I can find one! I have a heap of photos I still have to sort through so will post a propper update on the entire build later in the week!

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Okay so here we go the long awaited write up!

After facing teething issues, shes all running mint! So far since the swap was completed I have picked up some ACS Type 1's however they are very wide and have massive offset. To get the to fit the guards will need a lot of pumping, however I have thought of the possibility of grafting E46 flares onto my rear guards to allow for better fitment. I have managed to get it running reliably and have so far done just over 1000km on the swap and a track day!

Around Ruapuna even with the 4.44 diff, I topped out 5th gear around 175kph on gps (7k rpm). I was sitting consistently around low 1:55's which is a good 5 seconds faster than what I was getting on the old engine and auto box. Tires are definitely needing an upgrade along with putting the vented front breaks in to really help the lap times drop down, along with a longer ratio diff. Lowering springs have also been added to the back end which allows for the car to now not look like its doing a nose dive all the time, and gives some insane wheel tuck in the corners (see pic :P ).

Still on the list of things to do:

  • Longer ratio diff
  • New front brakes to be installed
  • Ti Specific shift boot (Sedan one doesn't fit perfectly)
  • Guards to be rolled/flared out

Some things that I have considered as future mods include:

  • M-Sport Rear bumper
  • M3 style or AC front bumper
  • ZF gearbox
  • Race/Performance brake pads
  • Front strut brace
  • Upgraded rear sway bar
  • Upgraded sway bar bushings
  • Coil Over suspension
  • Semi Slicks for track use
  • Oil cooler
  • Supercharger when I want more power

As always here are some pics!!!

As she currently sits:

jrxkgvl.jpg

7pdTdRT.jpg

Getting some wheel tuck on ruapuna!!!!

JuD5kmQ.jpg

More Ruapuna action:

smV9tMR.jpg

Test fitting the new rims:

Z6whOXn.jpg

That fitment.... 17/235/45's on 17x8.5 et13 rims.... definatly needing narrower tires for the front to get anywhere close.

nTATo0G.jpg

Also here is a video of a few laps on Ruapuna, this was my 2nd ever track day and first track day since the swap:

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Some 235/40's and a bit more 'cause racecar' -ve camber up front might do it.

You'll need to find an ACS front lip to go on rather than a M-sport one I reckon!

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Yea, adjustable camber plates for the win

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Would be fun :)

Cage planned?

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Would be fun :)

 

Cage planned?

No cage planned ATM, it's my daily driver and I am still a poor student in my final year of my engineering degree. I still like the idea of keeping it as a daily driver and a sleeper. It's a hell of a lot of fun on the track and the next step is handling. It's got boatloads of power and I'm extremely happy with it!!!

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missed the updates, looks really good! a stiffer spring rate would be good too, that is leaning over a lot in the corners!!

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try the msport front and rear sway bars 1st

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So I have found some new tires, going to go with some Hankhook Ventus R-S3 215/45zr17 tires for the rear, and I managed to find a nice set of Yokohama Advan AD08r 225/40/17 tires that I am thinking of chucking on the front due to running into under-steering problems. I have a track day next Saturday out at Ruapuna, and am getting the tires fitted up tomorrow, so hopefully I see the lap times drop considerably. Last time I was running worn out goodrides and the standard non vented front brakes. Opinions on running the wider tires on the front vs on the rear would be great! I will be running them on my style 97's as my Type 1's are currently with my dad getting restored.

Changes since last track day include:

  • Replaced the front shocks (Failed wof on old ones so got replacement 2nd hand ones),
  • New rear pads,
  • Vented front discs and calipers,
  • New front pads,
  • Better tires 

Hopefully this all comes together to help it run better times! I still need a new diff but I have yet to find one in the correct ratio (The one I thought was a 3.64 was actually a 3.9). I will chuck the gopro in the car again, kinda gutted I lost my one so am currently borrowing my little brothers one (Mine is currently at the bottom of Lake Waihola, fell off the boat while doing some powerboat racing down there a few weeks back).

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It will be great to see the difference.

Are the vented front discs the same size as the stock ones?

286mm I think?

Are the new pads stock or performance parts?

 

Tyres should be a big improvement.

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The rotors are just the same as stock (From a 325i) and the pads are from on my donor car, but like new, Id suspect they are just stock/everyday pads and nothing too special (Bonus everything was free as far as brakes go). 

Last track day I did I managed to completly ruin a set of pads... the same the time before, bought brand new pads and they only lasted 2 months. Then again I knew I had all new brakes at home so kinda just went hard even though I could tell there was no pads left lol. 

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