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Herbmiester

Just about set on a 335i

46 posts in this topic

Try to enjoy it stock before you go all out on the mods, 300hp is still a hell of a lot for a street car. You will easily fly past "loss of license" territory when overtaking on the open road and not paying attention to speed. I've set my iDrive speed warning to 120kph to stop me getting into too much trouble, makes the car chime and flash a warning on the dash when you hit that speed. Useful feature in this car :D

Consider the N55 if turbo reliability is more important that pure power to you (it is to me), it's not as easily tunable. Also it can make better noise with a few mods :)

Edited by Matth5

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I come from a drag racing/muscle car background and I want horsepower again. My old XR6 turbo with 450 plus horsepower and a mountain of torque was fun and I would like something similar but in a more refined package.  

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So I spoke to Geoff Gray BMW and the the service manager said that in the 9 years he had been there he could only remember 1 o2 incidences of N54 engines with rattly wastegates. I wonder how prevalent an issue this actually is. 

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On 06/08/2016 at 6:11 PM, Herbmiester said:

If that works for you then fine, but it's not a solution to the problem especially if you want to grab the extra HP that is on offer with a tune and a few bolt ons. 

Well at least you are now fully aware Ron. 

It is the solution for all rattling wastegates unless they are too far gone and no more room to adjust. Even a rattling wastegate doesnt necessarily mean HP is being lost or none that you can notice. You will know if you are having a boost issue because car goes into limp mode and you get a code. I have done a lot of logging and my actual boost and actual load follow targets near perfectly. You will  lose more hp from degrading plugs than a wastegate issue. 

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14 hours ago, Matth5 said:

Try to enjoy it stock before you go all out on the mods, 300hp is still a hell of a lot for a street car. You will easily fly past "loss of license" territory when overtaking on the open road and not paying attention to speed. I've set my iDrive speed warning to 120kph to stop me getting into too much trouble, makes the car chime and flash a warning on the dash when you hit that speed. Useful feature in this car :D

Consider the N55 if turbo reliability is more important that pure power to you (it is to me), it's not as easily tunable. Also it can make better noise with a few mods :)

Yeah agree 400hp makes the car unmanageable and twitchy and before you know it you are spending more money on suspension upgrades. Its a good car but the power overwhelms the chassis so harder bushings and shocks/dampers are needed to make it handle better. Unless you are a point and shoot kind of guy then yeah go full bolt on and up the boost to 20psi. 

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1 hour ago, jin108 said:

Yeah agree 400hp makes the car unmanageable and twitchy and before you know it you are spending more money on suspension upgrades. Its a good car but the power overwhelms the chassis so harder bushings and shocks/dampers are needed to make it handle better. Unless you are a point and shoot kind of guy then yeah go full bolt on and up the boost to 20psi. 

 

Agree 400 hp is mental and putting all the power to the ground is difficult. I keep getting wheel spin. An LSD might be worth the investment. It is nice to have that much power for overtaking but isn't always necessary. 

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decent tires and lsd make a big difference.  Putting a wavetrac in was one of my best investments

Tuning tools like MHD, cOBB AND jB4 have software rattle reduction  options.

I use mhd but choose not to use the rattle fix as it can increase lag a pinch

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Pretty sure the software fixes just change default WG position more open so it wont rattle. It then takes longer to close when building boost so increases lag. 

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6 hours ago, mattone74 said:

decent tires and lsd make a big difference.  Putting a wavetrac in was one of my best investments

Tuning tools like MHD, cOBB AND jB4 have software rattle reduction  options.

I use mhd but choose not to use the rattle fix as it can increase lag a pinch

Steve, what did your wavetrac + install cost? I would love to get one as the tires I have on are premium but still not enough to get all the power down.

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It was a while ago but about $1300 for the diff and about 500-600 for install. Also depends on wether your factory diff is bolted or welded. They varied depending on build date, welded is a lot harder. Mine was bolted

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1 hour ago, mattone74 said:

It was a while ago but about $1300 for the diff and about 500-600 for install. Also depends on wether your factory diff is bolted or welded. They varied depending on build date, welded is a lot harder. Mine was bolted

Thanks, pretty reasonable then. Cool looking wagon you've got there! Now to see what kind of diff I have....

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400 hp too much? I guess we are on a different page on that one, but I do agree that that an LSD is a very wise option. 

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IMG_3809.JPGRetrofitted an E9x M3 LSD and 1/2 shafts into my E90 335 to make sure that the rear can handle whatever is thrown at it. Highly recommended conversion.

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Due to building a house im looking at selling mine unfortunately.

2007 MS done 75K from JPN

Mint condition inside and out, coded extras, running JB4, paddle shift, plugs, cabin filters, oil/filter just done.

$26K. PM me if interested.

IMG_1442 crop.jpg

 

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2007 335i with MHD ecu tune Stage 1 here.

Stock charge pipe no issues yet but will probably upgrade the charge pipe.

MHD ecu tune stage 1 is rated around 340HP, same as 1M.

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This thread has descended into mindless drivel   400hp too much for a road car really??  and fudging an adjustment is a fix - um NOPE.

 Move on guys this is crap ----  lots of road cars are north of 300kW ( that's about 400hp in the new money  we have had since 1972) It is the new norm for any respectable performance car  M3, M5 and those shitty big mercs as well  to name just a few.

Our parts hack in holland was a 4 speed turbo with more lag than a british banker and poked out  365 kW when cranked up to 2.9 bar - no electronics, no ABS  no launch control , try driving that on icy cobblestone roads!!!!

 

 

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Yes have to agree with Ron here, In the 80's I had 400HP albeit in a chassis with far far less capability to what we have now. Having looked at the wastegate issue when I buy a 335i I will likely just pull the turbos off and rebuild the wastegates myself with a rebuild kit, whole process is quite straightforward. That way I will have at least 50,000 KMs (probably more) without having to worry about boost leakage. I have factored into my purchase price and walnut clean of the cylinder head, a few bolt on parts (Charge pipe especially) a wastegate rebuild and a transmission service. This will add a couple of grand but will give me peace of mind that the car will be what I expect from the get go.

The rattle as I now see it is one problem but the wear in the bushing is the real issue and it would seem that the two issues are often discussed as one thing and while connected they are two different issues. 

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By the car, put a mechanical warranty on it and enjoy it.

Speaking from experience, If you worry about all the issues you could possibly be faced with you'll never go near one but I guess that's the case with all high performance BMW's.....

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Fair to say if you are worried about mechanical issues then perhaps a BMW should no be your first choice. That said the 335i offers tremendous bang for your buck as a driver's car. For me I like to know the issues that plague any car  as that has  a direct relationship to the aforementioned bang for buck ratio. Plus I just like mechanical things to be right.

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Same, tend to do homework, buy well and maintain well - been a successful approach to owning cars that others would consider high rent.

Regardless of what the item is,  be it: bicycles, cars, hifi or motorbikes , the whinge brigade is active on  forums and social media creating a cloud of mis-information not worth the electrons it taxes to exist.

Homework + remedials = fun times.  

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4 hours ago, Herbmiester said:

Fair to say if you are worried about mechanical issues then perhaps a BMW should no be your first choice. That said the 335i offers tremendous bang for your buck as a driver's car. For me I like to know the issues that plague any car  as that has  a direct relationship to the aforementioned bang for buck ratio. Plus I just like mechanical things to be right.

 

3 hours ago, 3pedals said:

Same, tend to do homework, buy well and maintain well - been a successful approach to owning cars that others would consider high rent.

Regardless of what the item is,  be it: bicycles, cars, hifi or motorbikes , the whinge brigade is active on  forums and social media creating a cloud of mis-information not worth the electrons it taxes to exist.

Homework + remedials = fun times.  

yep, we're of the same mind.  I too do my research before acquisition.  Make an informed decision, plan for the fixes.  I'd rather do it up front and get the use, than do it at the back end and pass on the benefits to the next owner, at my cost!

 

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