nzsapper

E36 M3 Body lean

38 posts in this topic

When you measure the height, you need to measure from the centre of the wheel so as to remove the variable of the tyre.

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33 minutes ago, zero said:

When you measure the height, you need to measure from the centre of the wheel so as to remove the variable of the tyre.

Thanks for that.

Will do a another measure.

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Huge holes in you analysis etc, hardly surprising that there was no resolution. You need to identify the root cause of the lean- if it is intermittent then it cannot be loss of gas pressure in the shocks like you suggest because once it is gone - it can't "come back" .Equally adding packers wont fix an "intermittent issue" .

And yes the car now looks jacked up so it's even more wrong than when you started.

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Lowering springs for your Bilsteins = Eibach.

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17 hours ago, 3pedals said:

Huge holes in you analysis etc, hardly surprising that there was no resolution. You need to identify the root cause of the lean- if it is intermittent then it cannot be loss of gas pressure in the shocks like you suggest because once it is gone - it can't "come back" .Equally adding packers wont fix an "intermittent issue" .

And yes the car now looks jacked up so it's even more wrong than when you started.

Thanks

Understand what you are saying, took my car to the professionals (as I am a Soldier, not a suspesion expert), their adivce after all the info I had given them was 10mm packers right front which I didnt see as the fix but thought ok they deal with these things as a profession, I will run with this . At the moment this is all the advice they have given me. My brain says it must be the springs as correct me if Im wrong they hold the ride hieght (doesnt explain intermittant issue)

New shocks - why not cant do any harm, at least I now have new shocks all round on my 23yr old car, had to be done at some stage.

From here they have advised me the car will settle and a run such as Gentle Annies should sort it. Not holding my breath - hopefully they are right

If car doesnt settle - then packers out, if still have hieght and lean issues then try and find another firm in Pamly that may know what they are doing. All advice I have been given is the firm I am using are the experts.

Trust me I am not a happy camper right now and the car looks crap

Cheers Paul

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You can help yourself by being in a position of being reasonably informed so that  you can "scrutinise/ validate" the suggestions and analysis of others sop lets start:

1) there are very few suspension / chassis experts in NZ

2) the original shocks will have been oil only - not gas pressurised,

3) Subframe / failing bushes  movement can account for small variations

4) the rear springs are geared about 1.7 to 1 so 15mm at the wheel is about 8.9mm at the spring ( a lot)

5) ride height is measured from the bottom of the rim to the top of the wheel arch opening.

 

Suggest you:

Park the vehicle on a level surface with a full tank and then - disconnect rear shocks at the bottom (quite easy)  and also the sway bar,  then measure all ride heights  correctly ( state wheel size)

Test rear of car for free movement with shock disconnected

Reconnect shocks

Check movement again and then ride heights

econnect sway bar and check ride heights ( the bar should go on without any effort if the car is level across the axle.

Ideally do this when it looks correct

Then tell us what the measurements are and we can establish

Settling only occurs if something has Not been done correctly or springs that are not fully conditioned are installed. You can get some settling of bushes and pads which is minor

 

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2 hours ago, 3pedals said:

5) ride height is measured from the bottom of the rim to the top of the wheel arch opening.

Should measure from the centre of the wheel to eliminate different wheel sizes and styles.

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On ‎20‎/‎05‎/‎2017 at 5:13 PM, M3AN said:

Lowering springs for your Bilsteins = Eibach.

Cheers - asked at Autolign about them, they said "they could get them but they are very expensive" and kept pointing me in the direction of some NZ made springs. For me when I get to this stage this will be the road I go.

These are what are in there now - assume OEM?

IMG_20170521_141020.jpg

IMG_20170521_151706.jpg

Edited by nzsapper
photos

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Yes oem.

 

You can tell by the painted stripes which is done to identify the correct spring in the assembly process.

 

To be honest, if you have bilsteins, I would be matching them with decent springs like Eibach or H&R.

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3 hours ago, 3pedals said:

You can help yourself by being in a position of being reasonably informed so that  you can "scrutinise/ validate" the suggestions and analysis of others sop lets start:

1) there are very few suspension / chassis experts in NZ

2) the original shocks will have been oil only - not gas pressurised,

3) Subframe / failing bushes  movement can account for small variations

4) the rear springs are geared about 1.7 to 1 so 15mm at the wheel is about 8.9mm at the spring ( a lot)

5) ride height is measured from the bottom of the rim to the top of the wheel arch opening.

 

Suggest you:

Park the vehicle on a level surface with a full tank and then - disconnect rear shocks at the bottom (quite easy)  and also the sway bar,  then measure all ride heights  correctly ( state wheel size)

Test rear of car for free movement with shock disconnected

Reconnect shocks

Check movement again and then ride heights

econnect sway bar and check ride heights ( the bar should go on without any effort if the car is level across the axle.

Ideally do this when it looks correct

Then tell us what the measurements are and we can establish

Settling only occurs if something has Not been done correctly or springs that are not fully conditioned are installed. You can get some settling of bushes and pads which is minor

 

Cheers for info

It will be about 2 weeks before I can deal with this

In meantime I have decided to drop vehicle back on Monday and get packers removed, then I am only working with one variable (new shocks).

After replacement of shocks I no longer have body roll through left hand corners. I now just have a height issue which I hope is just down to the packers - so therfore remove packers.

So in my mind what should happen now is that car will return to my previous ride height, albeit with brand new shocks. My untrained mind doesnt know if new shocks have any bearing on ride height.

Appreciate the guidence

Cheers Paul

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4 minutes ago, zero said:

Yes oem.

 

You can tell by the painted stripes which is done to identify the correct spring in the assembly process.

 

To be honest, if you have bilsteins, I would be matching them with decent springs like Eibach or H&R.

Cheers - thats the intent.

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1 hour ago, zero said:

Should measure from the centre of the wheel to eliminate different wheel sizes and styles.

Nope- correct BMW method is as described - its more accurate.

Note that Bilsteins do not work as well on the road with High rate springs (H&R) - they work better with a lower rate spring like an Eibach - Reason - they run low rebound control compared to the likes of Koni so the can't control the spring expansion.

You can expect up to 5mm of lift with gas shocks over straight oil filled

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On ‎21‎/‎05‎/‎2017 at 8:47 PM, nzsapper said:

Cheers - thats the intent.

yes but it does not guarantee they are OEM for your car , just some car.

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