1M Clone Build

34 posts in this topic

Sold the VRSF charge pipe and HKS BOV and BMS air filters to an other guy here Nathan and installed them on his car today. Slowed progress today,  but good to share spare bits to others. He seemed happy with the results and new found noise. Car sounded good for sure.

Managed to finish off the engine bay fuel rail plumbing, some new push lock fittings, fuel regulator needs to be mounted. Installed a new return line back to the tank, they don't have one factory, using aeroquip -6 lines.


Throttle body wiring extended, likewise 4 bar MAP sensor wiring to new charge-pipe. Ill head down Jaycar this week and grab some wire tidys, make em look stock.


Took a 1.75" to 2" 90deg elbow from front turbo to relocate the air filter on the drivers side. Bought a couple K&N filters to run as temporary since the others are sold.


Piped up the intercooler pipework. Excuse the ASBO blue hoses, they'll go once the ST goes in.



So the I/C is in, but needs to drop down about 30mm so the bumper can go back on. Saves me hacking that up.



Had my helper yanking on some hoses



Still need to mount the new giant (for a little bimmer) dash 10 fuel lines under the car. They are in position.

Three fuel pumps are installed in the tank but need finishing. A real arse of a job. I gave up last Sunday on this part of the job after getting real dizzy sitting in the car with hands in the fuel tank for a few hours trying to get the wires attached, all so bloody fiddly. Needed a lye down...

Fuel return line needs tapping into the fuel top hat. Injector loom installed, just need to wire in the JB4 port injection controller. I had a Split Second additional injector controller, but the JB4 version has heaps more fail safety devices so will run that through the main JB4.

Then we almost ready to test the port injection and E85! This will be the last hoorah with the RB turbos. Lets see what we can get out of them.



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"Climate Change" = one weekend we're underwater, the next I'm frozen. Meh whats pneumonia got on BMW progress....


While it rained Friday night, I played with some polymorph thermoplastic as a material to set some mirror bases. Meh, ended up making a HUR of a handle for a filleting knife for bigger Gt Barrier catches instead.  Ended up using some marine ply, working the mirror base contour and then belt sanding the rough contour of the mirror. Its a start.




Sat & Sun was progressing with engine bay fuel fittings, finishing off wiring loom and mounting the fuel pressure regulator for the new port injection. I hung this off one of the manifold studs, the same one that stabbed my hand pushing on a new fuel line fitting to a cold hose, at least blood helped slide it on. B'stard!

Used the same wire protectors to cover wires extended for throttle body and pre manifold MAP sensor. The rest fit ok. Lost half a kg trimming the engine cover to fit the injectors. 



Likewise closing off the replacement of all beefy fuel lines and fuel return upgrades. The first pic shows zip ties all over the place. The RHS shows one dash6 fuel return from the low pressure port injection rail to the tank, one dash6 450GPH fuel pump supply feeding through a fuel filter, and one dash6 line feeding into a 2-1 junction. The LHS side shows the same fuel return, with a dash8 main fuel feed line to both the high pressure pump and port injection rail. Uses aeroquip push lock fittings, some used from another project. Modified the stock fuel line brackets to make room for these. Yip, I'll trim the zip ties and rotate the ugly bits.



The fuel tanks RHS bucket needed a fitting drilled through to feed the third pumps outlet, seen carefully as the vertical black line fitting at the top. The main line feed is horizontal from the white plastic, both unattached.



The tripe pump setup is now installed in the tank, just needs the hat installed to the bucket. I get limited work time before I get a bit dizzy sniffing fumes, hence slow progress here. Two large hand working a small hole, damn....Black random wire heads to the new intake manifold hobbs switch that closes at 15psi, to trigger the relay and fat fuse to power the other two pumps for the port injection to get ready for action.

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As for these mirrors, damn. The glass itself is so convex that you could mount the mirrors in a wide range of positions and still see back. But the key thing is here, visually, how do we want hem to look? Check some mean pics of hot DTM machines. I see some upward angle ala hornet wings style, alongside some possible inward angle...nothing a belt sander cant deal with right?



The ex. manifold and steering column shat are almost done. Gotta beat this delivery and get the new setup ready for round 2....



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Managed a little bit over the weekend on wiring up of the JB4 additional injector controller, getting the pumps into the tank and wired up, all hoses connected etc. Almost there.

Managed to get the mirror attached to the base plate for the RHS. Ill mount it up and see how if looks, then make adjustments from there, ready for scanning. Its pretty solid/strong so far, perfect for playing around with, using marine ply then thermoset plastic, let it set then drill into it for the mounts. Then I can play around with the  mirror angle.  Bog & beatification comes later...


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After a minor mishap with the long block, I have bought a wrecked 335i wagon with low kms, swapped the long block over. Also sold the rest of the 335i to Brent @ BMWorld. Good b'stard took the engine out for me too. Did the rest in the driveway. Managed to tear my MCL in the right knee getting the engine off the trailer and onto the crane. This stopped car play for 3+ months. No pain no gain huh. Strong but not strong enough = groan. But the engine is super clean, zero oil leaks from anywhere. Swapped all my bits over to the fresh long block.

Whats to blame for the engine re-fresh? New injector locating tab falling into chamber causing a bent valve and hence no compression. Stink bro! According to many a friend they would have given up here. Shown here is a stock one and they munted culprit. Engine didn't even do many cycles before damage occurred. 


Sold the RB Turbos to Mike to turn his 335i into a drag car. Stage 2 pump gone, 3" downpipes to a Natalie down Chch way.

I've changed the clutch to a Spec Stage 3+, solid centre single plate. See how it runs without springs/damper. Might be ok. Add M Factory light flywheel too. No longer a dual mass thing. Factory DMFW is a really heavy thing.





Its taken since July 2017 to get this manifold made up, fitted correctly, flanges CNC'd and test fitted in Australia with the Garrett GTW 66mm (6664 in Precision speak). Hell of a Xmas present though. Whether this be the manifold or possibly the best successful test of my patience.

I'll be taking the ex housing and manifold to HPC to get their extreme coating applied this week before it gets final fitment into the bay.



Pardon the delay, but I will soldier on. Should have the manifold bolted up next week once its back from HPC. A few lines to get made up, bought and in stalled the block blanking plugs for the dual oil and water feeds to the stock twin turbos. Now to be single feed to this beast. Stock TD03 standing adjacent. Biggest difference is the turbine diameter, sheesh!


Also managed to fault find some blown MOSFETS in the DME/ECU and swap them out to tougher versions. Engine was misfiring at times, thought it was the 2step munting the O2 sensors, but ended up being ECU related. Can share fix details if anyone interested. Its a cheap and easy fix, with a soldering iron and a steady hand..... 



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Meh, quick test fit with subframe out. Its a snug fit without being tight anywhere. Probably 15mm the closest to anything, so decent heat dissipation.



I'm not expecting much lag. I'm planning to push the refreshed stock block and see where we get to.

I'm thinking around abouts like this one, which has the same sized hairdrier;


The turbo size aint too far different from my little 2 litre 4 banger in my Mk 1 Celica...




Edited by gaijin
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On 06/01/2018 at 1:16 PM, gaijin said:


I can't help but think your camber and toe are both out by a few degrees. Just a smidgen.


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Epic build!  Can't believe I've only just seen this thread.

Great job so far, and looking forward to seeing more progress!

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7 hours ago, M3AN said:

I can't help but think your camber and toe are both out by a few degrees. Just a smidgen.


Damn knees. Who thought they were important FFS.

Some leave days are booked this month to get the guts back in the body and pumping promise.  

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Right, spent half the day on getting the drivetrain and subframe bolted up. Damn hot today, even the tools were cooking in the sun.




Stripped out the old loom and used the one provided by the new donor engine. Need to de-loom the JB4 and assorted 2step and stuff and bring this to the fresher loom.

Manifold fits well, its tight-ish in many places. Likewise the wastegate seems really tight. Look like I'll remove a few sundry brackets from the area to get more clearance. Further chopped away at the engine cover to fit both around turbine & comp. housing.



Installed the BMS water supply in/out in 6AN I think, and oil supply in 4AN and drain fittings ordered in 10AN. Blocked off one water supply & return. 


Big air filter fits well, about 10mm clearance around it to the underside of the hood.


Bought me a BMS shirt shift kit and some other billet linkage kit. Ill detail that next time.



 I can get the oil & water lines ordered this week, likewise drain line.

Re-fit both front struts and torque check every bolt/nut.

Working out how the exhaust turbo back down pipe likewise how/where the wastegate dump will work should be a challenge. Bring it on...

Just need to relocate the radiator reservoir tank and PS tank and we almost there.




Here is the ECU fix I undertook capably as a cripple.

Issue was noted when a super sweet 2 step backfire in the waterview tunnel then made the car a little odd, some minor fuel fluctuations. JB4 read that there was no signal from bank 1 O2 sensor. Yet the replaced sensor also didn't work. Guessing not the sensor. Opened up the ECU and changed the MOSFET that read as open circuit, which, 'blow me down with a barge pole' powered bank 1 O2 sensor. Sweet fix man! I ended up changing all the other MOSFETS while I was there. Cost about $4 each. I used automotive grade ones, for high temps etc. Slightly higher in spec than the factory ones which are notorious for being sh*t in the stock DME/ECU.




I removed also the clutch delay valve which peeps say is a good investment. Basically its a bored out factory one with a larger internal bore diameter.


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