Jump to content
drtimwright

E36 Auto Transmission Gasket Replacement

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

I've got a leaky auto transmission in my 1998 E36 328i. Photo of the transmission attached - hopefully it has the transmission code on the photo.

This seems to be the gasket replacement kit that fits:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-automatic-transmission-filter-kit-24111421kit

Just wondering if anyone can say "no that's wrong" before I buy it (I don't expect anyone to say "yes" - I just want to reduce my risk of buying the wrong part)

Thanks,

Tim

IMG_4975.JPG

IMG_4976.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They are both the wrong kits. From those poor quality photos it's hard to determine whether it is the pan that is leaking. Several items can cause the leak shown. I would get it checked by a professional.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

They are both the wrong kits. From those poor quality photos it's hard to determine whether it is the pan that is leaking. Several items can cause the leak shown. I would get it checked by a professional.

Thanks - it was hard to get good quality photos with one arm stretched under the car (didn't want to crawl too far under when it's only jacked up). I've booked it in with my mechanic now (remembered that it's still covered by the mechanical warranty I purchased).

Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are doing the gasket its the perfect time to do new trans oil and filter too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 09/02/2018 at 1:59 PM, B.M.W Ltd said:

They are both the wrong kits. From those poor quality photos it's hard to determine whether it is the pan that is leaking. Several items can cause the leak shown. I would get it checked by a professional.

The professional said: leaky pan gasket and probably needs replacement seal on the side (I forget the exact part - potentially the extension shaft seal but will find out more when I talk in person). Can be done without having to remove the transmission. He said there was nothing wrong with the seals joining the engine and torque converter.

Now to find the right parts. I got him to write down the transmission model code :) And, yes, I'll be doing a fluid and filter replacement at the same time.

Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's the selector shaft seal on the L/H side of the gearbox- common leak issue on the older cars

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Turns out it's a ZF-5HP18.

 

 

IMG_5010.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wasn't thinking when I saw your original post, I'm sorry.

 

You can actually plug your last 7 here:

www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi

And it'll tell you what your engine and transmission models are.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In case anyone's interested, I'm half way through the replacement.

I found the right gasket, oil filter, and shift selector seal on trademe. They came from Australia.

So far I've managed to do the hard bits. Tuesday night:

  • Drain the oil (thick black crud)
  • Remove the oil pan (more thick black crud)
  • Remove the filter (lots of extra yucky oil comes out)
  • Remove the valve cover
  • Remove the shift selector seal
  • Install the new seal
  • Reinstall the valve cover
    • Note that you don't actually have to remove and reinstall the valve cover in order to replace the shift selector seal. You can dig it out from the outside using a screwdriver. Of course, I didn't know this until the (heavy) valve cover was out.
  • Have a shower because I was covered in oil

Wednesday night:

  • Torque the valve cover screws to spec
  • Replace the old oil filter & oil pan, torque screws to spec
  • Buy a socket that will fit the oil fill screw (only BNT seemed to have a 17mm hex driver)
  • Fill with oil (damn that was messy)
  • Take for test drive (it was awesome! Much better shifting and power)
  • Check the oil wasn't still leaking (spoiler: it had stopped leaking)
  • Took another shower for the same reasons.

2 weeks later:

  • Remove oil pan and filter again
  • Install new filter
  • Replace oil pan
  • Fill with oil

The most surprising thing was how dirty the oil was on the second change. I've got enough oil to change it again, so might do that after a few hundred more kms. But after this change (oil and filter) the car was even more peppy - changing gears even faster than before. Wish I'd done it before the driver training day!

Tim

Edited by drtimwright
added update...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks mate seriously I’ve been trying  to fill this same type of gearbox in the wrong fill port it’s first time I’ve seen a actual photo of this gearbox thanks again done the fill and wow she’s like brand new and yea messy job 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, Ken said:

Thanks mate seriously I’ve been trying  to fill this same type of gearbox in the wrong fill port it’s first time I’ve seen a actual photo of this gearbox thanks again done the fill and wow she’s like brand new and yea messy job 

Glad I could help! Yeah, trying to fill through the drain port would be a nightmare. I kinda wish I'd taken photos when the gasket was off so you could see inside it too.

Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 27/02/2018 at 10:23 PM, drtimwright said:

In case anyone's interested, I'm half way through the replacement.

I found the right gasket, oil filter, and shift selector seal on trademe. They came from Australia.

So far I've managed to do the hard bits. Tuesday night:

  • Drain the oil (thick black crud)
  • Remove the oil pan (more thick black crud)
  • Remove the filter (lots of extra yucky oil comes out)
  • Remove the valve cover
  • Remove the shift selector seal
  • Install the new seal
  • Reinstall the valve cover
    • Note that you don't actually have to remove and reinstall the valve cover in order to replace the shift selector seal. You can dig it out from the outside using a screwdriver. Of course, I didn't know this until the (heavy) valve cover was out.
  • Have a shower because I was covered in oil

Wednesday night:

  • Torque the valve cover screws to spec
  • Replace the old oil filter & oil pan, torque screws to spec
  • Buy a socket that will fit the oil fill screw (only BNT seemed to have a 17mm hex driver)
  • Fill with oil (damn that was messy)
  • Take for test drive (it was awesome! Much better shifting and power)
  • Check the oil wasn't still leaking (spoiler: it had stopped leaking)
  • Took another shower for the same reasons.

2 weeks later:

  • Remove oil pan and filter again
  • Install new filter
  • Replace oil pan
  • Fill with oil

The most surprising thing was how dirty the oil was on the second change. I've got enough oil to change it again, so might do that after a few hundred more kms. But after this change (oil and filter) the car was even more peppy - changing gears even faster than before. Wish I'd done it before the driver training day!

Tim

The torque converter would still have been full of fluid - hence the dirty fluid second time around. Sounds as if it does need another flush.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×