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Olaf

Grey Thunder - 1990 e30 316i

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Looking really good! I sprayed the vinyl dye onto my parcel shelf and it came up looking a million dollars. 

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More on removing the glue residue.  Recommendations noted for:

  • Panelbeater's Spray Gun Cleaner.  Safe on automotive paints, though kills adhesives.  Noxious,.
  • Prep-sol panel degreaser.

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Date: 21 Nov 2019

Distance: 260672kms

More items off of the list today.  Less than 2 weeks to e30 Mega Meet.

1.  Pinch Bolt for Power Steering Reservoir
This had been missing since before I bought her.  My sincere thanks to Jon at Auto38 for letting me scrounge through his spare fasteners (from dismantled/parted out vehicles).  I found the appropriate 10mm bolt and secured the PS Reservoir.

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No more Cry Freedom for you, Mr Reservoir!

2.  14" Basket Weaves installation
They weren't as straight as expected.  We o
pted to move the tyres across, and see how they'd balance up.  In some cases it was the old 'chasing 5g around the world' game.  They look terrific, really giving the car a boost.  Here's some 'leg shots'.

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Something's up here... (Steelies to be cast out)

 

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Left front brake detail (Zimmermann Sport z-coat rotor)

 

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Right front brake detail (Zimmermann Sport z-coat rotor)

 

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Even the paint shop guys were impressed.

I also installed the security bolts I sourced last year, to (hopefully) ensure the wheels stay on the car.

 

3.  Dash mat
Keren at Auto38 was right. My dashboard was letting the side down.  It was an easy decision to say "yes please" to one of 
their smart black dashboard mats, and reasonably priced too it was.  Smartens things up.

_LKP2630_1600.thumb.jpg.e5c431e1d91c39d10258950f3ec42146.jpg

 

4.  Stereo Installation
I went to Streetsoundz, I was short on time yet high on expectations of quality.  Krishna and his team certainly delivered.  As supporters of the BMW Car Club NZ, I was keen to experience their quality and service.  It was also unknown territory, as I'm a former technician and would normally have done this myself.  I was not disappointed, and very impressed with the care taken.

I've got more setting up to do.  There are so many options on this deck it's mind-blowing.  Also need to get that faceplate colour 'just right'.  The proper hands-free is exceptional, as is the bluetooth integration with 'hey Siri' etc.  

IMG_9736_LR_1600_300dpi.thumb.jpg.744cb525cfbdd289a26e6793f58a8442.jpgKenwood's KMM-BT305 Head Unit (playing one of my Spotify playlists)

This was Audio Stage 1:  simple replacement with a mechless head unit.   I now have cool (modern) sh!t like bluetooth handsfree and Spotify.  Tomorrow I'll try it with .wav files from my NAS.  The amps and sub, and power distribution to go with it, will wait for now.  And a decision on whether to revert to Cassettes with mods (eg pre-outs and line in).  

 

5.  Oil Change with Filter
This time a Hengst filter (Hengst E88H D24); the last was a Mahle (OX91).  4 litres of Penrite HPR5, with 75mls of MBL8.  

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Trusty drain pan, Orsome Orange gloves, MBL8, old filter

 

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Mahle filter detail (old, though just 1200kms)

 

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Hengst filter detail (new)

6.  More Wheels
Two more basket-weaves to refurbish, as I should have more-thoroughly checked the state of mine before I stripped and painted them.  I should have had them straightened first.  Oh well, live and learn.  I went to Union Hardware and had more of my Wheel Silver made up, and picked up more primer-surfacer, U-pol Clear Coat, and two grades of Scotch-Brite.

Tomorrow:

  • Stripping down two more wheels and painting them
  • Reset service indicator
  • Sound deadening under rear parcel shelf
  • Parcel shelf & rear speakers
  • Clean HT lead connections
  • Investigate remote mirrors not working

Next week:

  • clutch master cylinder replacement
  • MBL8 in gearbox

IMG_0007_LR_1600_300dpi.thumb.jpg.a372eff5d5659ae86bc16475a40b15ec.jpg
More 80's than a Razor Cut, Winkle-Picker Boots, and a copy of Power Corruption and Lies.

Edited by Olaf
adding Altered Images (yes, another 80's music reference)
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Great looking car!  Thanks for the pics on the underbonnet and fuel gasket - both on my list too :) 

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Today I worked on a couple of smaller items:

1.  Steel Wheels

  • water-blasted my old steel wheels, if only to make them cleaner for handling.

2.  Alloy Wheels no's 5 & 6

  • Washed, Scrubbed, and water-blasted the two additional alloys.  
  • They'll need dressing, as they are corroded inside the barrels.  
  • I figured I'd need more paint, so  I went to the paint shop to buy etch primer, more primer surfacer, and more colour.  
  • They suggested I visit the sand blasters, and pay to have them stripped.    
  • One of them needs welding, so they'll go to the wheel repairers next week.
  • I don't expect to complete in time for E30 Mega Meet

IMG_3240.thumb.JPG.0dbca6722cd16df8ca3292b4f209d8e1.JPG

Additional basket weaves getting the green snotty kiwi wheel cleaner treatment before water blasting. "Here we go again".

 

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"Will the circle be unbroken".  

Detail shot showing gash on the inner rim, and some of the lighter corrosion.  Rim Repair specialists next week, after sand blasting.

 

3.  Rocker Cover Breather Hose

  • My christmas present arrived from Germany.  p/n 11151727851
  • So I fitted it.  1/4" drive set a boon, here.  
  • The old one was completely baked, 30 years of temperature cycling.

IMG_8592.thumb.JPG.2bbd5cc7bb9acc86bd54a84c152f5f83.JPG

'ere's the new one fitted.  Nice supple rubber; the old one was essentially thermosetting plastic.

 

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Viewed from above (from left side of motor, front of car to left) - Breather clip is closest to bottom of frame.

 

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It's a bit bloody tight in there.  You get the idea.

I may have over-tightened it.

Edited by Olaf
Added - still more - images, culled list
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OMG.  5 sleeps till E30 Mega Meet.

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4 sleeps till Megameet. Here's my final list.  Not sure if I'll fit all of this in today, but I'll give it a lash!

  • Test audio - a 32GB USB stick with 80's albums in .WAV format
  • Clutch master cylinder replacement [Parts list incl Feed line (21521163714), Feed line grommet (21521156082), master cylinder connector (21521154163), master cylinder (21521156000), clutch hose (21521154163), Clutch pedal to MC Fit bolt (21521151447) and nut (7129906196), clutch line clip (34341163565)].  Not much said quickly, eh.
  • Reset service indicator (for Thursday's oil change)
  • Add MBL8 to gearbox
  • Check exhaust hangers
  • Clean HT lead connections
  • Secure gutter trim, driver's side
  • Sound deadening under rear parcel shelf
  • Replace parcel shelf and install premium rear speakers
  • Lubricate antenna
  • Replace tail light seals (this may have to wait)
  • Wash and wax.
  • Have another crack at the wind roar
  • Investigate remote mirrors not working
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7 hours ago, Olaf said:

4 sleeps till Megameet. Here's my final list.  Not sure if I'll fit all of this in today, but I'll give it a lash!

  • Test audio - a 32GB USB stick with 80's albums in .WAV format
  • Clutch master cylinder replacement [Parts list incl Feed line (21521163714), Feed line grommet (21521156082), master cylinder connector (21521154163), master cylinder (21521156000), clutch hose (21521154163), Clutch pedal to MC Fit bolt (21521151447) and nut (7129906196), clutch line clip (34341163565)].  Not much said quickly, eh.
  • Reset service indicator (for Thursday's oil change)
  • Add MBL8 to gearbox
  • Check exhaust hangers
  • Clean HT lead connections
  • Secure gutter trim, driver's side
  • Sound deadening under rear parcel shelf
  • Replace parcel shelf and install premium rear speakers
  • Lubricate antenna
  • Replace tail light seals (this may have to wait)
  • Wash and wax.
  • Have another crack at the wind roar
  • Investigate remote mirrors not working

You can do it! Cheering from the sidelines for ya bud, epic little car you got here. been an interesting read 

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I’ll be formatting this post later and adding photos....

Date: 25 Nov 2019

Distance: 260740kms

1.  Tested stereo with USB stick and .WAV files - works fine. ?  First up:  a blast from the 80's:  Love, by The Cult.

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Playing 'Rain' by The Cult, from USB stick.

2.  Replaced Clutch master cylinder and feedlines, bled clutch.  It's now super-smooth, sweet and light.  Not expecting a clutch failure now!

IMG_0035_LR_1600_300dpi.thumb.jpg.da60e7dc29096aa309f9b41746b929ab.jpg

Shiny new (Febi) Clutch Master Cylinder featured.

 

3. Reset Service Indicator (first green LED is faulty)

4.  Replaced missing water pump bolt (Jon spotted that last time it was in).

5. Drained gearbox oil, mixed in 25mls of MBL8, refilled.  (this oil is the Penrite Full Synthetic that was installed earlier this year.  It's nice and clear.  Gearbox is smoother.

6.  Checked exhaust hangers.  Will replace after Christmas.

7.  Inspected and pressure tested cooling system.  Found leaking heater matrix.  Replaced heater matrix with good used Behr OE item, pressure tested and bled system.

IMG_0034_LR_1600_300dpi.thumb.jpg.2f28c5b82c26d656f05f0500e37c2192.jpg

My e30 bleeds blue!  Genuine BMW coolant sopped up by rags.  30 year old Behr Heater Radiator during removal.

8.  Lubed antenna

Auto 38 in Newtown, *THE* place to go for top quality servicing on your BMW.

Thats it for me, the other stuff can wait.  A clean and wax is all that’s left before e30 Mega Meet. And a bit of duct tape to secure that drip-rail trim ?.  Maybe if I get excited, clean up the HT lead connections.

My lesson is that I should have assumed the heater matrix would need replacing, given I'd already replaced the rad, thermostat & housing, all the hoses.  I'll order a water pump, and a matrix for future use.

Edited by Olaf
Formatting, photos
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Now that you've refurbed the 14" basketweaves.. I see this set of 15" are available on Facebook if you're interested Olaf.Screenshot_20191125-193009_Facebook.thumb.jpg.087ea50437a4bfc10a06ddabe6de19c5.jpg

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yes indeedy they're beautiful @Cammsport, alas I need to buy a new camera body pronto  ?    I'm sure some will come up next year ?.

 

Edited by Olaf
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Today, @Autoglym and I gave Grey Thunder a clean before Mega Meet.

 

_LKP2600_1600.thumb.jpg.da49b4b648ce78c7fdc9d26cd390bc04.jpg

 

Thanks Barry, it looks super - if I say so myself!

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Heater core replacement write up if you get bored? Mine has a leak also.

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not much to say really... I watched, while Jon did the work.  It's tight.  Glovebox comes down (needs support).  Be prepared to unbolt the brake booster from the firewall, and disconnect the pedal linkage thingy from the servo.  Centre console out.  Plenty of towels for mopping up that blue blood.  New O-Rings.  Hmmm.   I should have paid more attention!

Edited by Olaf
 Centre console out.

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Date: 24 Jan  2020

Distance: 261xxxkms

1.  WoF.  Passed with flying colours.  No advisories.

I've been enjoying driving her.  Summer sunshine, supple rubber.  Jon @ Auto38 has disassembled my rear trailing arms, so I'll be stripping them back and treating them as per my front struts, anti-rust, etch, prime, paint, and refinishing and rebuilding the callipers, and we'll be overhauling the rear in the next month or two.

Next:

  • Replace Blue temp sensor (ordered)
  • Replace exhaust hangers (in parts stash)
  • Dashboard: repairing SI, dry joint brakepad warning indicator, adding RPM, fitting analogue clock, precautionary odo gears replacement.
  • Audio:  Front tweeters, rear parcel shelf, Sound deadening under rear parcel shelf, rear premium speakers, power feed for sub & amps, install sub.
  • Electrical:  Install the dual horns, Install foglights, Investigate remote mirrors not working
  • Replace tail light seals (in parts stash)
  • Rear end brake overhaul and spring pads (in parts stash)
  • Clean HT lead connections
  • Get new driver's door waistline trim and clips.

Then start on M42 project & LSD.

PS:  I've had many people compliment me on the car this month.  I'll pull into a park, folks will walk up and say 'nice car!'.  I'm really not used to this.

Edited by Olaf

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Nice work! It will be better than a new car when its done!

Tough choice what to show at the upcoming British and European day aye ? (that's presuming that the BMW club will be in attendance).

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Thanks Greg @treone!  It's already mostly better than new ?   I'm planning on taking the e30 this year.  Would you like to join us?  0915 at the park on the day.  Be great to see you.

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Agree - and it is probably better than most  new cars in 2020! I was thinking of heading over to have a look, it was a pretty good day last year.  Will keep it in mind to tag along, it just may depend if mine is fit for display on the day, for me anyway (just booked in for a couple if minor things to get sorted). 

Either way will see you then ?

now back the the OP ?

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... not much has been happening on my e30 lately.  I took Barry's barn-find 635CSi 'Barney' to the British and European Car Show at Trentham.  

Cleaned the number three HT lead at the cap (again), which improved some rough running.  I've sourced some parts.

I drove it for most of the day on Friday 28 February, and really enjoyed it.  Then I had to urgently head to the land of Oz the next day, and the car has been in the garage since then.  On my return to NZ, I was strapped-in to 14 day self-isolation due to my travel risk (contact with family members arriving from other countries), and symptoms.  I've just emerged into 'general lockdown', so at least can plan some work on the old girl when this Covid-19 thing eases a little.

Meanwhile, here's a couple of pics I made on 28 February.

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These were test images for a shoot I had planned for the sunday.  A friend's ///Msport 325i Tech 2 coupe needed some pre-sale shots, so I was scouting locations.  Accordingly, my car is as it came from the garage, with a bit of dust on it.

Ah well, back to planning.  Might get it out for a grocery shopping essentials trip soon, at least keep fluids circulating.

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Date: 17 Jun  2020

Distance: 261xxxkms

1.  Replaced Blue Temperature Sensor (CTS).  Bosch part #0280130026.  And new aluminium crush washer.  This is where specialist knowledge rules.  No stripping the inlet manifold.  Remove the airbox and surrounding area, and you can sneak in with a long extension.  It's made a really nice difference to how the car runs. I think it's been running rich for years before I got it.  EDIT: it's nippier, climbs through the rev range a little faster. I think it'll be more economical to boot!

D2EC44DD-0B95-4636-B4FD-B1B1267651A1.thumb.jpeg.6d35e3ed2f9ba646e4d76303427c041d.jpeg
There's the little bastard!  A pale blue Bosch coolant temperature sensor in it's natural habitat, this afternoon.  Plug is disconnected in this image. 

 

2.  Replaced Three Exhaust Hangers.  What a shitty job.  Best done on a hoist.  They weren't f@#ked, a precautionary replacement.  The old ones were getting a little crusty.  Job's a good 'un.  I mean, who wants a dropped exhaust they have to wire up on a country road?

A0F39576-8410-4A32-A46A-5F2BB4F9AAA6.thumb.jpeg.3a3580f77fb7d79c00567eb4d984daa5.jpeg

First Exhaust Hanger.  Adjusted hanger bracket.  P/N 18211105635 (Vaico VAI-V200055)

 

D8238089-8527-4FAB-B66E-12D83B3393E6.thumb.jpeg.43a7a03542636afca28ea74af782a2c1.jpeg

Outboard Exhaust Hanger (Doughnut):  P/N 18211712838 (Fischer Plath)

 

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Inboard Exhaust Hanger (Doughnut):  P/N 18211712838 (Fischer Plath)

 

3.  Replaced Rear Inboard Brake Hoses.  Jon noticed one of the hoses was a little dimpled, and they were starting to get a bit weathered.  On the basis of 'it's brakes, we don't dick around here', we replaced them.  It was another shitty job.  Bled the brakes afterwards, topped up brake fluid.

A0F39576-8410-4A32-A46A-5F2BB4F9AAA6.thumb.jpeg.3a3580f77fb7d79c00567eb4d984daa5.jpeg

Inboard Brake Hose:  P/N 34321159878 length 222mm (Corteco).  - the old hose pictured.

 

4.  General checks.  Bled and topped-up cooling system.  Topped up engine oil (0.5 litres).  Checked gearbox oil level (fine).  Checked differential-mounting bolts to subframe.  Re-tensioned drive belts (power steering had been squealing on initial cold start).  Thanks Jon!

5.  HT Leads Cleaned #3 HT lead connection at cap (again) - emery cloth, and brakeleen.  Checked all other connections, clean and dry.

6.  Gleamy I also gave it a wash on Sunday, it's looking good and ready to take to Castlepoint on the BMW Car Club NZ trip this weekend.

IMG_2006_1600_300dpi.thumb.jpg.abf7d1de13a5ee390988dab82430fd88.jpg

Spic and Span on Sunday.  Should have taken a proper camera.
 

A big shout out to Jon and Keren at Auto 38 in Wellington!  I can turn a spanner... mostly, but the skill and capability of a craftsman mechanic is streets ahead.  If you're in Wellington (or the lower North Island), you'll get excellent workshop service.  Plus parts nationwide.

Next steps:

  • Front Scuttle Panel: Clean surface rust from front scuttle panel, etch, prime, repaint satin black.
  • Tail Lights: Replace tail light seals (in parts stash)
  • Electrical:  Install the dual horns, Install foglights, Investigate remote mirrors not working
  • Audio:  Front tweeters, rear parcel shelf, Sound deadening under rear parcel shelf, rear premium speakers, power feed for sub & amps, install sub.
  • Dashboard: repairing SI, dry joint brakepad warning indicator, adding RPM, fitting analogue clock, precautionary odo gears replacement.
  • Rear end brake overhaul and spring pads (in parts stash).  Update:  rear trailing arms blasted and powder coated.  remaining items:  repaint backing plates, strip paint, and overhaul rear callipers.
  • Bodywork: Get new driver's door waistline trim and clips.
Edited by Olaf
Added images, titling. Added text and Bosch CTS Part Number. Added shiney image
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thanks @Mikan, you flatter me.  Plans afoot for a little more work tomorrow.

 

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Date: 18 Jun  2020

Distance: 261xxxkms

1.  Replaced Tail Light Seals.  Genuine BMW part #63211380419.  Precautionary replacement; I've read that these are often the source of leakage into the boot.  Given mine are thirty years old, I decided to replace them.  Fairly straightforward; 8mm nuts (six of).  I cleaned out the aperture, no rust (woohoo!), no evidence of leakage.  The old seals were in pretty good condition and flexible, though compressed as you'd expect.   I fitted the new seals, and applied a light smear of rubber grease to the mating surface.  Job's a good un.

_RPA4617_1600_300dpi.thumb.jpg.9dc8103abc13ea75ac981c6c51fd4c56.jpg

Rust-free e30 tail light aperture.  phew, relief.  The left hand side was the same (more dirt built up), though I forgot to take a picture.

 

_RPA4621_1600_300dpi.thumb.jpg.80798c3e3bc64684e5b28ed3da5403a1.jpg

A new Seal, in Wellington.  Not the 90's pop star, though. (the right hand).

 

_RPA4624_1600_300dpi.thumb.jpg.5b7bbdda97287f53b953b9a2d52873fa.jpg

A new Seal, in Wellington.  Not friends with Trevor Horn, either. (the left hand).

 

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View of tail lights showing fixings - bulb carrier removed.  Note the six 8mm nuts - and the clamping bracket at the outer edge.  The loom and connector un-clip from the tail lights with two squeeze tabs.

 

2.  Radiator Support Panel - surface rust remediation.  Light surface rust at the bottom of the radiator support panel had been awaiting my attention.  Jon reminded me about it while we had it in the air on Wednesday, and today was the day.  A combination of wire brushing and emery paper saw to the prep.  Normally I'd use rust converter; time (and low winter temperatures weren't on my side.  We used Hammerite rust treatment paint (brushed on), after pre-heating the metal with a heat gun.  This stuff works well to stop rust and provide a hard coating.  Then an hour later (after more heat-gun to move warm air around and aid drying, I hit it with a coat of Rustolleum all-in-one Satin Black, after pre-warming the can in a water-bath.  Another coat (pre-warmed metal) 50 minutes later.  An hour later (after some more coaxing with the heat gun), it was pretty-well dried, at least to begin curing.  Result.

_RPA4625_1600_300dpi.thumb.jpg.a8ae5727fa357dd1aa1d06e668a415b2.jpg

Yecch.  Unsightly, though not serious.

 

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Prepped for surgery (in truth, this was post-paint).

 

_RPA4627_1600_300dpi.thumb.jpg.b9875452b90212c0f2e38fd83c289c1e.jpg

Protection.  Though not of the Massive Attack kind.  How can I resist?

I'll monitor this, to ensure the remediation is solid.  I may get some cavity wax (or just fishoilene) and spray it into the inside of the structure.  If the external remediation shows any sign of continued rust, I'll re-do it in summer when there's better temperature and more time.

 

IMG_8566.thumb.JPG.b9f6718428f5717f87b028e905047865.JPG

A couple of disc rotor backing plates in suspension, today.  I also painted the backing plates in preparation for the brake refresh job in a couple of weeks.  Degreased, keyed with grey scotch-brite, two coats of Rustoleum all-in-one satin black 50 minutes apart (with some heat gun in-between).

 

3.  General checks:  - Rain-X'd the windscreen.  Twice.  It's going to be a very wet roadie this weekend.

Pleased to note that cold starting is much easier with the new CTS from yesterday.  Result!

 

Edited by Olaf
pictures, formatting, commentary. Added seal part number. Added interior view. Added paint detail for backing plates.
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Grey Thunder handled the trip to Castlepoint and back nicely.  I think it's using less fuel, though it's early days yet.  

_RPB2837_1600_300dpi.thumb.jpg.1d7dfeaa17910247931a01f33bce725e.jpg

Photographer's ride waiting on the side of the road, Wairarapa, NZ.

On the subject of car audio, I'm not going to bother relocating the battery to the boot, as BMW didn't in the 318iS.  Though I will need to run a high-current feed from front to back to feed the little sub and two class D amplifiers.  Would an e46 Battery Cable (rear Mount), or e39, provide what I need?  What about e36 or e46 Ti, do they run rear-mount battery and hence provide a source of cabling?  I'm thinking of the pick-a-part special ?.  Thoughts?

Here's the updated maintenance list (in revised priority order).

  • Rear end brake overhaul and spring pads (in parts stash).  Update:  rear trailing arms blasted and powder coated.  Backing plates now repainted.  Remaining items:  Strip, paint, and overhaul rear callipers.
  • Driver's Window wind-roar: strip door trim, set and re-secure door glass in regulator.  At the moment it moves forwad a couple of mm at top of travel, making a wind-roar at the rear top corner.
  • Dashboard: Repair Service Indicator module (including new batteries), repair dry joint brakepad warning indicator, precautionary odo gears replacement.  Add RPM guage (in place of main binnacle clock), fitting analogue clock in centre dash area.
  • Electrical:  Install the dual horns, Install foglights, Investigate remote mirrors not working and repair.
  • Audio:  Rear parcel shelf, Sound deadening under rear parcel shelf, rear premium speakers.  3 pairs od RCA signal feeds from front to boot for amps and sub.  Speaker cables from boot to front for future amp install.  Power feed for sub & amps.  Install sub, Front tweeters.  Source and install amps.
  • Interior:  Get front seats rebuilt.  30 year old upholstery is keeping my Chiropractor busy after a long journey!  Plus getting the top fabric sorted would allow me to ditch the (functional though not stylish) seat covers.
  • Bodywork: Get new driver's door waistline trim and clips.  Minor rust-prevention work.
  • Bash plate:  Source and fit a sump bash plate suitable for M40/M42.  I've seen a kit from an Australian supplier that looks suitable.
  • M42 Conversion:  Continue research, collect parts (including M42, M44 exhaust manifold, purple tag rack and LSD), build M42.  Research certifiers in Wellington in preparation for install and certification.

 

And here's a serendipidous exposure error turned cool:

_RPB2714_1600_300dpi-2.thumb.jpg.01228d859344f740df1c5676744fdd4d.jpgNot my car in the Wairarapa (though it is my image!).  Trippy, eh?

 

Edited by Olaf
added photos

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Date: 10 Jul  2020

Distance: 261xxxkms

1.  Cluster Service.  

607644384_Photo_10-07-20_13_08_39.thumb.jpg.96de15f34cb7753b85e89e5b933edf4d.jpg

It's fun removing the cluster from the car; even more fun stripping it down.  Remember which screw goes where.

 

  • Brake Pad Warning Lamp  Re-flow soldered the contacts on the cluster circuit board that causes the Brake Pad Warning Lamp to go on intermittently, or stay 'hi'.  Barry had kindly hidden this with some black tape as a temporary blind; it was time to fix it.  If you want more details, a handy guide is here on e30 Zone.  
  • Odometer Gears.  Barry had done this before, so I held the tools and assisted where I could.  We replaced the gears just in time, they crumbled as we disassembled it, and installed a new set of Garagistic metric odo gears for the VDO cluster.

 

1616377808_Photo_10-07-20_13_11_56.thumb.jpg.48687f92cf276b2be3ba516ad76bd364.jpg

Naked cluster, packet of Garagistic VDO km gears awaiting install.

 

603789362_Photo_10-07-20_15_31_18.thumb.jpg.589aa50168d2f0d9d638d9e9e4cb7923.jpg

Old gears crumbled in our hands.

 

1900696081_Photo_10-07-20_14_12_30.thumb.jpg.35c2d03c51d6becfde8105280b7821ea.jpg

 

  • Tacho retro-fit  I attempted to fit a tacho in place of the clock, but found my povo-spec cluster lacked the right contacts.  I also tried putting my speedo into the spare (earlier) cluster board, and then putting that into my own casing - but they were incompatible.  The spare cluster had been damaged in transit (note to self:  always inspect freight when it arrives!)... so I ended up re-fitting 

694238079_Photo_10-07-20_14_12_25.thumb.jpg.562da2a5d44b4ce7208721809842cb00.jpg

No tacho contacts there, then!

 I had to run to REPCO for some 5-minute Araldite to repair my lower dash panel above the pedals - I'd missed the 'middle' snap screw.  Reinforced it with araldite, just like a bought one.  Big shout out to @Autoglym, we had fun applying these fixes.

2.  M42 Prep.

I picked up a big box yesterday, M40 upper and lower oil pan and pickup, engine supports, dipstick and tube.  Today I unpacked them, sprayed on a s#!t ton of citrus degreaser, and then steam-cleaned them.  

923557251_Photo_10-07-20_16_59_01.thumb.jpg.b6caf16e1a1e0bf5848bb66ce81e2239.jpg

Flash eh?  M40 parts after a scrub and steam clean.

 

1304279148_Photo_10-07-20_16_59_23.thumb.jpg.c234b18d6b450370e8760edd1f6ba704.jpg

Lower Oil Pan (left), Upper Oil Pan (right), M40 engine support arms, and (Enis) the dipstick. After steam cleaning,

 

3.  M40B16 experiment Prep.

Most will file under 'why would you bother', though Jon and I have wondered aloud a few times if running the M40B18 intake manifold, throttle body, (and boot), might elicit just a little more 'go' from the 1600cc M40B16.  The larger-bore throttle body might help with HP, and the longer runners might help with the torque.  It's worth a crack, anyway.  These parts were included in the big box of M40 parts.  Should I do it?  Well, when you've only got 102hp (assuming none have escaped over the years), a few more would be most welcome!  I'll have a try soon.
Big shout out to Cam  @Southerner, legendary Bimmersporter if you're trading, and he packages very well - thanks mate! 

 

 

 

Edited by Olaf
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