Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
LsBeema

L98 into an E36 coupe.

Recommended Posts

59 minutes ago, Gaz said:

If a vehicle comes with bump stops then it needs bump stops for the WOF. They can also fail you on brake rotors if they suspect they are undersized, it is then up to you to prove otherwise

Dont they need to measure the rotors for thickness, not just if they suspect it?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, zero said:

Dont they need to measure the rotors for thickness, not just if they suspect it?

No...visual only... you need to then be able to show proof of compliance

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, zero said:

Dont they need to measure the rotors for thickness, not just if they suspect it?

Depends where you go. A mechanic would more than likely wheels off and measure properly as long as the discs had the min thickness stamped on them, but a testing station wouldnt. 

Same goes for window tints, if there are no markings then they can be failed and up to you to prove that they are ok

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/28/2018 at 7:12 PM, M3AN said:

They measured the brake rotors?

And bump stops are not a matter for a WoF, many cars come from the factory without them.

How do you not notice missing wheel bolts... on all 

On 11/28/2018 at 7:12 PM, M3AN said:

They measured the brake rotors?

And bump stops are not a matter for a WoF, many cars come from the factory without them.

How do you not notice missing wheel bolts... on all wheels? lol.

 

 

Oi.....loose nuts are an issue. ???

Missing wheel nuts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, zero said:

Dont they need to measure the rotors for thickness, not just if they suspect it?

If there is a major lip on the edge or the condition of it seems too thin... then they'd measure brru

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

20181208_124507.jpg

20181208_132928.jpg

20181208_154635.jpg

20181208_132429.jpg

Edited by e39525iM

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Gaz said:

If a vehicle comes with bump stops then it needs bump stops for the WOF. They can also fail you on brake rotors if they suspect they are undersized, it is then up to you to prove otherwise

That's fascinating... I believe you but it seems totally arbitrary...

...for a start how do they know if the vehicle came standard with bump stops or not? e.g. E36 Ti none at the rear and other E36's do have them... no workshop can be expected to police that and no consumer could be expected to prove it... also, you can't test them even if they are present... so what constitutes a viable bump stop?

...and there's no plausible way for a mechanic to determine if a specific diameter rotor is good/bad/acceptable/etc nor can they reasonably look that up and a consumer can't prove it (in any practical sense) one way or another... rotor diameter isn't even a valid metric with respect to absolute brake performance...

I'd be quite interested in failing on one of those points because you can be sure as hell I'd be disputing it!

If it weren't a PITA I'd remove my rear bump stops just to see what happened at the next WoF lol.

Just goes to show how subjective a safety test, that should be objective, really is.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's not the diameter it's the thickness which should be stamped on the rotors. At least with genuine ones they are

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, M3AN said:

That's fascinating... I believe you but it seems totally arbitrary...

...for a start how do they know if the vehicle came standard with bump stops or not? e.g. E36 Ti none at the rear and other E36's do have them... no workshop can be expected to police that and no consumer could be expected to prove it... also, you can't test them even if they are present... so what constitutes a viable bump stop?

...and there's no plausible way for a mechanic to determine if a specific diameter rotor is good/bad/acceptable/etc nor can they reasonably look that up and a consumer can't prove it (in any practical sense) one way or another... rotor diameter isn't even a valid metric with respect to absolute brake performance...

I'd be quite interested in failing on one of those points because you can be sure as hell I'd be disputing it!

If it weren't a PITA I'd remove my rear bump stops just to see what happened at the next WoF lol.

Just goes to show how subjective a safety test, that should be objective, really is.

 

Arbitrary, yes. Bump stops, I have removed completely perished ones from the front and rear of my old E36 sedan and nothing was said, so it completely comes down to the inspector at the time and whether they notice (and yes that was an inspection at VTNZ of all places).

Most OEM rotors have a minimum thickness stamped on them on the inside. If for some reason the inspector thinks they are under this minimum thickness, they can fail them on it. Rotor thickness is however a valid metric, once it gets too thin there are a few potential issues. Heat dissipation and overheating are a major concern with heavy braking, and there's always the slim chance (I say slim because I've never seen it happen but the potential apparently is there) that the pistons will come too far out of the calipers, causing major failure.

I agree completely that it is subjective, having spent time in Melbourne as a motor mechanic we couldn't fail brakes on visual inspections for anything other than fluid leaks, cracked hoses or worn pads/shoes. The system over there relies on wheels being removed and discs being measured, brake drums removed and linings inspected etc. Not just a quick glance and "hey that looks a bit thin, think I'll fail that", actual hard data. Unfortunately though, most WOF inspectors over here will stick to the whole "it's a visual inspection only" guideline that is the basis of the WOF system, and not go the extra yard to provide hard evidence that there is something wrong.

And then you get the d**k mechanics who tell you you have to replace the rotors, you aren't allowed to get them machined if they are within tolerance, all because they wrote down they must be replaced ? - had that argument many years ago.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, M3AN said:

...and there's no plausible way for a mechanic to determine if a specific diameter rotor is good/bad/acceptable/etc nor can they reasonably look that up and a consumer can't prove it (in any practical sense) one way or another... rotor diameter isn't even a valid metric with respect to absolute brake performance...

 

Thickness, not diameter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, zero said:

Thickness, not diameter.

I wondered about that and concluded (perhaps incorrectly) that "undersized" meant "the wrong size" rather than simply "worn" which would be a less ambiguous way of stating it.

On the basis that it's the width/thickness then yes, of course that should be check for any WoF.

Edit: if I got failed on missing bump stops I'd cut up a pool noodle, wrap that around the strut and ask them to prove they didn't work.

 

Edited by M3AN
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Aaaanyway...back to the build. 17 points to all you guys for the technical inputs.?

Got mee some new pressure valves and washer nozzels and man do the work good?

My own lube concoction of half moly grease and copper grease for those beautiful hubs that wont let go of the wheel. ?

20181211_104710.jpg

20181211_173616.jpg

20181211_175005.jpg

20181211_175738.jpg

20181211_175747.jpg

20181211_175759.jpg

Edited by e39525iM
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All legal now boyz..??

Bringing on them 16s for the rear..

Gutting this interior...

Dual caliper on the rear with hydraulic handbrake...? ...and   E46 front lower arms with steering lock kit...?...uhh...like to. 

 

 

20181212_170444.jpg

20181213_081537.jpg

Edited by e39525iM
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nah boys...the L98 is going into the e39..CONFIRMED. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Na man, Barra the world is the new way, much more power and a lot more reliability for less work ????.

Either way, good luck on your journeys, should be a fun project.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally.

Liposuction started. Aiming for 1200. 

Piping and fittings for Abs shift and clutch. Guy at Steerling brake& clutch says 36s 3/4 inch master would have enough pressure to order the slave...I have my doubts...Will see. 

 

 

20200103_165303.jpg

20200103_165328.jpg

20200101_145814.jpg

20200101_192538.jpg

20200101_144740.jpg

20200101_153912.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Productive day. Ls sump that I've ordered is 50mm to high. The Holley one would be here in 2-3 weeks. Would fab mounts, relocate ABS pump, look at steering shaft and start Ls in the ground....that would get the eager & excitement juices pumping?? 

Edited by LsBeema
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Day 2

Removed heat shield from tunnel and tidied it up by cutting studs & touching up with primer& paint. Removed slave, fuel pipes, stabilser, pwr steering piping and drained brake fluid. Made up templates and cut some steel for the mounts. Got the Line-lock and exhaust cutt-out systems out the cupboard to bring them to the party. Tried fitting the transplant but I kinda knew that the sump wouldnt clear...was just to dahm eager. I want to start the Ls up on the stand or floor with the box coupled before i cut the sump to make it fit so the mounts can get fabricated. Holley sump here in 2.5 to 3 weeks. 

20200107_175226.jpg

20200107_175208.jpg

20200107_134005.jpg

 

 

 

20200107_161628.jpg

Edited by LsBeema

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Will be picking up the captive bush kit for the engine mounts tomorrow. Also need to source out a rear subframe for the E60 Lsd. 

 

Edited by LsBeema

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Will be nice to get this going. 

I regret using an early 1UZ in my E36 V8 swap, too much effort for little power, but it was a fun excercise. 

L98 with a manual T56 is terrific value.

By the way, watch out using those electric cut off valves, if they can be adjusted in the cabin and exceed the noise limit of 95dba at 3000rpm this will make getting a certification plate difficult. The valves are ok as long as on the loudest setting the output is not over the prescribed dba limit for a V8. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 minutes ago, Michael. said:

Will be nice to get this going. 

I regret using an early 1UZ in my E36 V8 swap, too much effort for little power, but it was a fun excercise. 

L98 with a manual T56 is terrific value.

By the way, watch out using those electric cut off valves, if they can be adjusted in the cabin and exceed the noise limit of 95dba at 3000rpm this will make getting a certification plate difficult. The valves are ok as long as on the loudest setting the output is not over the prescribed dba limit for a V8. 

Yea man...these L98s come with the Ls3 heads and make easy reliable 450 -500whp with a cam kit & lifters(haha sounds like 1920s), port & polished heads, laser points and titanium condensors with a remapped carburettor?, cold air induct and a maf-less tune. Thanks for the tip for the cut outs brru...will leave that for after the cert?.

Edited by LsBeema

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

70A grade instead of 88A...

20200108_091732.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Only a few hours of work. Engine on stand. Removed, cut & cleaned sump. Need to source out some sleeves and tubes for the engine mount bushes. 

Loving this build...????

20200108_120303.jpg

20200108_122320.jpg

20200108_140254.jpg

20200108_125227.jpg

20200108_125922.jpg

20200108_130718.jpg

Edited by LsBeema
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Modifying this sump took out a good few hrs from the mild transformation of the 36 ???.....annnnyway ...moving forward....

 

Got to moan every now and again...keeps us understanding women??

Oh used wurth silicon instead...cos I aint starting Ls up and I also held plate with some self taps

20200109_110414.jpg

20200109_112223.jpg

20200109_112501.jpg

Edited by LsBeema

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...