NEED HELP: E30 M20 Manual conversion

[Annu 1]

I'm doing a manual conversion on my m20b20, decided to go for a g260. I was wondering if anyone could link me a video or a write on a manual conversion on  a RHD e30 as all the ones that i have found are for LHD. Im sure they aren't too different. From all the write ups and videos i've seen they use the brake fluid reservoir to bleed the clutch but for LHD there is a seperate clutch fluid reservoir which has a soft line to the master cylinder? If there aren't any write ups can someone please give me a detailed explanation or directions.

Thank you.

[Driftit 1925]

Hey mate.  There used to be a good guide on the forum.  Now I can't seem to find it.  I followed it around 10 or so years ago for my E30 series car.  Otherwise a LHD one will be fine.  Only thing that differs is the reservoir for the clutch.  Which is really straight forward.

One thing that is different between autos and manuals that catches many out is the spigot bearing that goes in the end of the crank and aligns the gearbox shaft.  Autos don't have it.  Manuals need it.

Everything else is very bolt in/on if you have a complete conversion kit.

Edited April 3, 2020 by Driftit

[hotwire 352]

As Dan says - very straight forward BUT only if you have ALL the parts.

It is practically plug & play

You require:

Gearbox - complete with shifter linkage/stick & mounting bracket

Front section of driveshaft - to suit G260 E30

Clutch plate, pressure plate, release bearing, flywheel & circular shim plate. All associated bolts. As Dan says - insert a spigot bearing 

Master cyl, slave cyl, reservior/bracket, clutch line & hoses - pressure & reservior to master cyl

Manual pedals & the matching longer bolt or a complete pedal box.

 

It is easier to change the pedals rather than swapping the whole box. Remove the auto pedal & insert the two pedals with the longer bolt.

There is a perferated panel on the bulkhead - push this out & mount the master cyl to the pedal box (pre existing mounting holes)

The clutch line pipe clips into pre existing clips along the bulkhead & down to a mounting point on the L/H inner guard/rail - where it connects to the hose to the slave

Reservior bracket mounts to the battery tray, hose leads through an existing hole in the bulkhead onto the master cyl.

Remove the auto shifter assy. Underneath is remove the auto trans & cooler lines, fit a new spigot bearing into the crank, fit the clutch, gearbox & either swap the driveshaft or split the existing & replace the front section (rear half is the same for all).

Make sure your box mounts, giubo, hanger bearing & u joints are all good - replace if not. Also shifter linkage bushes, they are best replaced anyway.

You need to bridge the inhibitor switch wiring in the plug that connected to the shifter. Green /yellow to green /black for start & green /yellow to blue/white for reverse lights.

 

Note: if the G260 came from an E30 then all above applies. If it came from an E34 then several parts need swapping. I can fill you in on that if need be.

 

 

 

 

[Annu 1]

On 4/3/2020 at 1:44 PM, Driftit said:

Hey mate.  There used to be a good guide on the forum.  Now I can't seem to find it.  I followed it around 10 or so years ago for my E30 series car.  Otherwise a LHD one will be fine.  Only thing that differs is the reservoir for the clutch.  Which is really straight forward.

One thing that is different between autos and manuals that catches many out is the spigot bearing that goes in the end of the crank and aligns the gearbox shaft.  Autos don't have it.  Manuals need it.

Everything else is very bolt in/on if you have a complete conversion kit.

Cheers, thank you Dan. Yeah I watched and read so many threads on a manual conversions and forgot all of these are lhd and when I went to get a manual pedal assembly it came with a clutch reservoir which then clicked my mind that we can't just cut off the nipple on the brake reservoir to bleed the clutch.

[Annu 1]

3 hours ago, hotwire said:

As Dan says - very straight forward BUT only if you have ALL the parts.

It is practically plug & play

You require:

Gearbox - complete with shifter linkage/stick & mounting bracket

Front section of driveshaft - to suit G260 E30

Clutch plate, pressure plate, release bearing, flywheel & circular shim plate. All associated bolts. As Dan says - insert a spigot bearing 

Master cyl, slave cyl, reservior/bracket, clutch line & hoses - pressure & reservior to master cyl

Manual pedals & the matching longer bolt or a complete pedal box.

 

It is easier to change the pedals rather than swapping the whole box. Remove the auto pedal & insert the two pedals with the longer bolt.

There is a perferated panel on the bulkhead - push this out & mount the master cyl to the pedal box (pre existing mounting holes)

The clutch line pipe clips into pre existing clips along the bulkhead & down to a mounting point on the L/H inner guard/rail - where it connects to the hose to the slave

Reservior bracket mounts to the battery tray, hose leads through an existing hole in the bulkhead onto the master cyl.

Remove the auto shifter assy. Underneath is remove the auto trans & cooler lines, fit a new spigot bearing into the crank, fit the clutch, gearbox & either swap the driveshaft or split the existing & replace the front section (rear half is the same for all).

Make sure your box mounts, giubo, hanger bearing & u joints are all good - replace if not. Also shifter linkage bushes, they are best replaced anyway.

You need to bridge the inhibitor switch wiring in the plug that connected to the shifter. Green /yellow to green /black for start & green /yellow to blue/white for reverse lights.

 

Note: if the G260 came from an E30 then all above applies. If it came from an E34 then several parts need swapping. I can fill you in on that if need be.

 

 

 

 

Thanks Grant, that's really helpful. The box is off an e30 so I don't any of that other info. I got all the stuff you've mentioned but what is the circular shim plate you are talking about?

[Eagle 1514]

Likely talking about the flywheel spacer\skim that goes under the flywheel bolts