Quality Tools

[bravo 34]

I'm sick of the sh*t quality tools most retailers sell to Joe Public. I have a range of tools from Alltrade (do not touch with a barge pole) to Powerbuilt (OK if you are only doing light-weight work) to better stuff like Jonnesway, Snap-on, Sidchrome, Stahlwille etc.

So I'm looking for comments from people who have used tools for years and have found "good" brands. This means you will have been doign relatively extensive automotive work for some time (not just a backyard manual conversion once awhile ago) and actually know what you are talking about.

I don't want to get the best as it is not for commercial use and I can't afford $50 per socket, but some decent, well-priced tools that are going to last me 20yrs or more.

Also - where can I buy them?

Cheers

P.S. I have some basic stuff, but with the exception of the odd item (like good extensions, universals, breaker bars, torque wrench, jack, stands, ramps, chain block) I wouldn't mind if the whole lot got lost and I started again, so anyone who knows of a good "apprentice" type kit with mainly just a good set of socket drivers and sockets, ratchet box wrenches etc would be good. I have no idea what something like that would cost but I'm guessing around the $1000 should get me what I'm after.

Edited July 19, 2006 by bravomikewhiskey

[Guest Spargo]

Sound like Teng will fit the bill then.

I love koken and Snap On when I have access to them. The Snap On van even comes to you! How cool is that?

[topless 5]

I use Gedore, Metrinch, Stahlwille and some Snap-On.

Gedore doesn't seem to be readily available in NZ, but is excellent quality with a replacement guarantee over the counter.

Metrinch is excellent stuff, (with lifetime guarantee), one spanner does both metric and imperial and will remove bolts that have been almost completely rounded. Wish they had been available years ago when I first started my mechanical urge...

Stahlwille and Snap-On are expensive but are a lifetime investment.

I discovered years ago that cheap is in fact expensive, they are bound to let you down on a Sunday evening when nothing is open and you need to get the car repaired to go somewhere first thing Monday...

[cainchapman 0]

Stahlwille and Snap-on for me too.

Considering I employ a mechanic to do anywork I need doing, it seems silly. Just in case a mate needs to do some work on a car.

Actually got no idea where my toolbox is these days, maybe at Mum's

[Cress 0]

Work uses Snap-on tools for just about everything.

where as i own Powerbuilt.

I think as long as the tools have a life-time warranty on them, then you are pretty safe to use them.

If they break, just take them back and get new ones for free ;D

Edited July 19, 2006 by Cress

[ducatiss 1]

Have a set of Aigo spanners that I have used and abused for the last 25 years. Have lost the odd one or two (always the 10mm for some reason) but never broken them.

[E30stz 0]

In the shell of an E30 you can pretty much disassemble the whole blurry thing with a decent phillips head screw driver, a 8mm socket and a 10 mm socket for most of it. And the odd one offs - 6mm socket, 8mm allenkey, torx bolts, 22mm socket. Although I havent started on the engine bay yet.

Could probably get away with and save some money just buying a good wrench and a couple of decent sockets.

Edited July 19, 2006 by E30stz

[Steve K-B 51]

The Snap On van even comes to you! How cool is that?

Not if hes the stingy guy that does the glenfeild area....

Anyway, jonnesway are a good cheep brand, Perfectly suited for the weekend user. Ive got a lot of there stuff and if anything brakes ill sent for a new one.

I love stahlwille spanners, nice rounded edges that wont cut into your hand. Also the ring end is very slim so you can get to a lot of tight spots with them. I find snap on a little to sharp and when i save up enough im getting me a stahlwille set. I have sh*t spanners at the moment but they also do the trick.

Snap on ratchets rock. Im getting me one of those too but not the whole socket set as the sockets are to expensive to loose.

Im using a fuller set and i dont see that lasting 5 years using it every week day.

I also love snap on screwdriver set, and definatly get a snap on ratcheting screw driver!!! Its probly thae best tool i have so far.

[rxsumo 33]

I have a mainly Teng toolset, with Sidchrome, original Motogard (Japanese), Koken, Alltrade and Powerbuilt add-ons.

I've found that most of the "cheaper" tools like Alltrade are ok for the likes of screwdrivers and sockets, but where they get let down is in things like their socket handles, of which I prefer a decent "name" brand.

I would suspect if you really research the "name" brands a lot of the stuff comes out of similar factory's in China.

The only stuff I would shy away from is the $30 no-name socket sets and $15 spanners set because some of the stuff is sh*t in the construction and the worst thing that can happen, is when you are really leaning on something....it breaking!

[bravo 34]

In the shell of an E30 you can pretty much disassemble the whole blurry thing with a decent phillips head screw driver, a 8mm socket and a 10 mm socket for most of it. And the odd one offs - 6mm socket, 8mm allenkey, torx bolts, 22mm socket. Although I havent started on the engine bay yet.

Could probably get away with and save some money just buying a good wrench and a couple of decent sockets.

Dude in the last 6 days I've had the cambelt and all pulelys off, cooling system removed, sump off, motor mounts out, driveshaft off, bumpers off, part of the interior out and then a couple of weeks back all suspension, struts etc out. Used 6, 7, 8, 10, 13, 14, 17, 19, 22, 32mm, 5/8, 5/16 (for rounded metric bolts and a hard-to-get to torx - 5/16 ring spanner fiits the small torx) sockets and spanners 3 different sizes of torx head (female) 2 different sizes of torx head (male), 4 diffeerent sizes of allen head, pliers, screwdirvers, circlip pliers, stilson wrench, torque wrench, etc etc and had to borrow the odd thing (thanks will) and just getting frustrated with not having good enough gear so time to invest.

Thanks for the comments - will look into teng and metrinch. I like jonnesway, but BNT is their local stockist and they won't order in anything unsual like larger torx sockets for some strange reason.

Edited July 19, 2006 by bravomikewhiskey

[nazistaffcar 0]

If your using Imperial sizes on metric bolts even if they are 'rounded' there is something wrong with your tools my friend.....if you have a vernier check the sizes, especially with open ended spanners they can stretch.....but it is common for cheaper tools to be quite oversize........

It may be worth contacting Trade Tools in Auckland, their Facom range is damned good for the price.....it's genuinely made in europe(by the french) and their range of torx tools can't be beaten. Their spanners are incredibly robust and dont have a chromium chipping problem...and to be honest, their screwdrivers are a vertual rip off of snap-on with a smaller price tag!However their socket sets can be a little pricey....I have a trade account with these guys so if your interested e-mail me and I'll screw you a mean as deal.....v84all@xtra.co.nz

Just remember you pay for what you get....as with everything in life cheap is not nesessarily the best option......

[moktar 7]

hi all i work at Auckland engerning surplies and we stock alot of koken and good quality tools also we stock alot of brass fittings hose clamps and castrol oils i will be happy to offer trade price to anyone from bimmer sport.

if you pm me what you are lookin for i will try my best to sort out a mean price for you guys.

if we dont have it on the shelf we can get it

thanks,

Miles

Also alltrade tools and powerbuilt come out of the same factory as each other from china so they are of very simmilar quality.

[bravo 34]

If your using Imperial sizes on metric bolts even if they are 'rounded' there is something wrong with your tools my friend....

Not necessarily -its a common trick.

1/2" = 12.7mm (only .3 of a mm less than 13mm for soft 13mm bolt heads that have rounded - will need a hammer to 'tap' it on.

5/8 = 15.9mm = only 0.1mm less than 16mm

15/16' = 23.8mm

and going the other way using metric on imperial bolts)

7/16 = 11.1mm (use your 11mm spanner on a rounded 1/4" bolt head)

9/16 = 14.3mm

3/4 = 19.05mm!!!

7/8 = 22.2mm

So even top tools could be used on the wrong size bolts if they are softer metals, rounded and you persuade them to go on the bolt with a small hammer.

If possible use a 6-sided socket as they have much better grip than 12 sided just more of a pain to put on, and those metrinch tools - I would love to see them in use to see if they are as good as they say.

[nazistaffcar 0]

1/2" = 12.7mm (only .3 of a mm less than 13mm for soft 13mm bolt heads that have rounded - will need a hammer to 'tap' it on.

5/8 = 15.9mm = only 0.1mm less than 16mm

15/16' = 23.8mm

and going the other way using metric on imperial bolts)

7/16 = 11.1mm (use your 11mm spanner on a rounded 1/4" bolt head)

9/16 = 14.3mm

3/4 = 19.05mm!!!

7/8 = 22.2mm

NO sh*t SHERLOCK!!!!!! As an engineer I can tell you that is why the cheaper tools cause problems...with stretch and the fact that most over zealous part-time "let's play" mechanics over tighten everything..........What I'm trying to say is that if you have a M3 or for that fact an M6(318 power or not) why the hell would you disassemble it with a 12" cresent, a butter knife(emergency flat head) and a 15lb sledge hammer?1/2" is 1/2", 13mm is 13mm, nevermind whack it with a hammer first!!!!! If the problem is rounded bolts remove them and store them safely in the rubbish bin. Wurth can supply what you require-as they supply 90% of fasteners to the German automotive manufacturers.

Just remember spanners and sockets are kind of like your butt; once it's had something that is not designed to be in there, IT WILL NEVER BE THE SAME AGAIN!!!!!!!! So don't wreck your new tools....and as I was told during my apprenticeship..............

A GOOD TRADESMAN ALWAYS TAKES CARE OF HIS TOOLS

[Gus 5]

ust remember spanners and sockets are kind of like your butt; once it's had something that is not designed to be in there, IT WILL NEVER BE THE SAME AGAIN!!!!!!!!

i like this one

im using supercheaps version of powerbuilt, SWG (something something gold)

they not the worlds greatest, but they seem to do the job, as in nothing broken, and i hardly round bolts/nuts anymore

i do like whacking tie rod/control arm ends though

[kerrynzl 3]

i do like whacking tie rod/control arm ends though

Cresents are cool, the cheapest portable lathe money can buy [they round off anything]

You like Whacking Off a Tie Rod End? or Whacking Off with a Tie Rod End?

[Gus 5]

You like Whacking Off a Tie Rod End? or Whacking Off with a Tie Rod End?

interesting question....both? and so much more

[Nobimmer 694]

My sheds packed with SNAP-ON and IRWIN gear.The snap on stuffs the best but the irwin works reeeeel well for wat i pay for em.I work at mitre 10 so if any1 here shops there or needs a hook up i can give u a hand i spose lol

[bravo 34]

the fact that most over zealous part-time "let's play" mechanics over tighten everything.........

Gus... FT FTW

what I'm trying to say is that if you have a M3 or for that fact an M6(318 power or not) why the hell would you disassemble it with a 12" cresent, a butter knife(emergency flat head) and a 15lb sledge hammer?1/2" is 1/2", 13mm is 13mm, nevermind whack it with a hammer first!!!!! If the problem is rounded bolts remove them and store them safely in the rubbish bin.

heh - exactly - but when you buy secondhand you get all the problems of rounded heads from the dipstick who owned the car beofre you.

I agree with you in principle, but in reality, you do whatever it takes to get the damn bolt off and worry about putting a new one in later.

Thanks to all the suggestions. Oh and whereabouts is "wurth"?

[nazistaffcar 0]

Wurth- 42 Hobill Ave, Manukau.ph 2623040.......it maybe an idea to contact Dave Robinson(mob 0212802106) as he is the metal division manager to see if they would be interested in some form of 'bulk buy' deal for club members......They work the same as all good supply companies with a local rep near you.....contact the head office for details

[Bullitt 0]

I have two socket sets, a 3/8" Powerbuilt which is rubbish and a 1/4" Bahco which I fully rate. The quality of the Bahco stuff is so much higher than the Powerbuilt one. Not sure if this applies to their other stuff though

[nz320i 0]

Reppin Bahco as well, its really good used it for everything on my car, and then just cheap crap from bnt as i dont seem to be fixing up stuff all the time.

Edited July 25, 2006 by nz320i

[Gus 5]

im looking for a balljoint splitter and also a pickle fork. can find a pickle fork but not sure where to find a balljoint splitter..not the ones repco sell but the one that works for e30s..can hopefully find a pic somewhere. any ideas / hookups?

[kerrynzl 3]

i do like whacking tie rod/control arm ends though

Have You got some sort of "Ball Joint Fetish"?

Seriously though , The Fork type Removers end up splitting the rubbers. I invested in a rather heavy copper [persuader] Hammer

$1.00 from harbour-freight in USA. It works better tha any remover I've used

[charge out rate: Hammer $1.00. Knowing How to Swing it $30.00]

[Gus 5]

the fork type isnt for the rubber part..its for the connection to the front subframe. thats why i also want the balljoint spliiter.

the hammer method has worked for me on my own car..just not on andys for some strange reason. my bad.