E30stz

Quick Questions

2,407 posts in this topic

Are you new to bmw's or just require some answers to minor questions your wondering about ? Then this is where you want to post.

This thread is where you can ask any questions you require answers to that wouldnt be necessary to make a thread for. Things that you might be unsure of or something that someone can give you a quick answer too.

This post has been made so more important and technical questions wont be overshadowed by small quick answer questions.

Be sure to be specific:

Specify

Make: BMW

Model: 528i

Year: 1998

Chassis: E39

Then the question below:

Does anyone know what size tyres should I be using on my standard 15" mags.

How much oil should I be putting in?

How do I change the brightness of the lights on my dashboard?

If you dont think you'll be needing to use this thread, be sure to check when theres a new post to see if you can help out. This will hopefully be a quicker way to getting the answers you need.

Andy.

Edited by E30stz

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Not a bad idea although not like we have so much traffic that the forum is in a mess. Yet...

Edited by bravomikewhiskey

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Hey ok i was hoping there would be a section for small questions.

1985 bmw 323i 4 door...

I was wondering what the 2 buttons on the left hand side of the headlight pull-out thing do.I pushed them and nothing happens

Thanks

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they're your front and rear fog lights. If it doesnt light up on your instrument cluster, then you may have a blown bulb, fuse or faulty cluster (like you suggested in the other thread). If your fogs dont work (check both front and rear) then you're going to need to replace either No.15 fuse (rear fogs) or front left fog no. 29 front right no.30

Should have spare fuses, if you dont I'll chuck some in free with the instrument cluster.

Hope this helps,

Andy.

Edited by E30stz

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If the lights work but not the bulbs in the cluster get them fixed as if you have a warning light on your instrument panel for fogs it must work or it'll fail a wof.

Sounds ridicul;ous I know but check the wof manual if you dont believe me.

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just imagine how many noob questions will need to be answered in here, noone will want to scroll through 49.5 pages off as to find out if the orange colour of the bulbs is just a faded red.

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just imagine how many noob questions will need to be answered in here, noone will want to scroll through 49.5 pages off as to find out if the orange colour of the bulbs is just a faded red.

Agreed, best to create a topic with a relevant subject title so that searching for a specific topic will yield better results, is better to inform a n00b to use the search function as opposed to trying to dig up a topic with hundreds of entries

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thats why you click the orange box beside the thread that takes you to first unread post

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where does one go to get their brake rotors machined.

what price range should I expect?

is machining really worth it these days, new rotors are around $100 for a pair I think.

what is the turn around time roughly ?

Edited by E30stz

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Got my done at a tyre, brake and suspension place.

Had this discussion with Gus and I'm of the opinion that machining is a totally acceptable way to go. Expect to pay about half the cot of new rotors. Should only be done if the total rotor thickness after machining will be within spec. Always match new rotors/machined rotors with new pads.

They should be able to do it in a couple of hours turnaround (its a pretty quick job).

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I've unbolted the exhaust @ the flange off the end of the exhaust manifold. Now I've hit hte obstactle where it looks liek I cant get hte exhaust out without taking or undo'ing the tie rod.

Am I just doing it all wrong or is it possible to take it out without taking it off or undoing one end.?

Edited by E30stz

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Aye? Undo the exhaust from the hangers at the rear and slide it out backwards.

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sorry.. I meant the headers, once you disconnect it from the exhaust manifold .. it cannot slide off the end of the thread without running into the tie rod. Will grab a pic. Everything else is unbolted.

Edited by E30stz

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Try turning the steering wheel full lock in one direction, may give you room to get loose. If that doesn't work then jack up the drivers side and do the same thing, turn full lock.

If that still doesn't work, get Gus along with his hammer... :P

Will

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Hi Andy,

The pipe definitly comes out without steering removal, I have only ever taken it out with vehicle on a hoist with no problem nor having to turn lock so obviously if front wheels are hanging then there is enough clearance.

Cheers

Grant

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What do I need to disassemble / take out first before removing the engine?

The obvious being

- exhaust

- radiator

- AFM

do I need to take off the exhaust manifold ?

does the alternator stay on ?

any tips as to how to make this easier. I'm pretty newbie to this all, so learning as I go. Pays not to screw it up first time though.

The gearbox is going to be removed from the engine any how.. so would it be easier to take it off and remove separately or remove the whole lot at once.

Cheers

Andy

Edited by E30stz

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well, i was silly enough to yank my steering wheel so hard when it wouldnt budge one day, (not the steering lock) but the part that the horn uses to make a circuit broke, so now i have no horn... glue it back on? all thats left is a spring now..

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What do I need to disassemble / take out first before removing the engine?

The obvious being

- exhaust

- radiator

- AFM

do I need to take off the exhaust manifold ?

does the alternator stay on ?

any tips as to how to make this easier. I'm pretty newbie to this all, so learning as I go. Pays not to screw it up first time though.

The gearbox is going to be removed from the engine any how.. so would it be easier to take it off and remove separately or remove the whole lot at once.

Cheers

Andy

Andy,

I would take the box out first -unless you can get the car high enough to remove as one unit.

You would be able to take the 4 cyl out as a complete unit but not sure on the 6 - I have only ever removed them seperately from the box.

Remove bonnet for ease of access, as youvé said remove radiator, air filter box/ AFM, take off alternator to get at & remove power steer pump - if no power steer fitted you can leave alternator on. Disconnect front pipe, you can leave both manifolds & viscous fan on.

Obviously disconnect all electrics / cables / fuel lines & lift out -easy if lifting eyes are still fitted to the engine, if not some ingenuity / bracket fabrication required for lifting points.

Good luck

Grant

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What E30 Andy, 318, 320 or 325?

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cheers guys, the cars a M40 318i.

I've been through and disconnected / removed 90% of the wiring and miscellaneous bits to one side, taken off the bonnet and just about ready to haul the engine out.

Saw your car yeseterday Silverfox, your've done a great job. Probably saw my e-dirty M-Tech II parked a few cars along. Good to get a look at hte competition, after watching 2-3 of them in a row down the back straight, its definately going to be put down to driver skill.

Cheers

Andy

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Thanks Andy, I found it easiest to take the gearbox off, and take the motor out the top. Torx bolts on the box aren't too bad, the top ones are hardest to get at, but if you put a trolley jack under the back of the box and lift it a few inches it swings the motor foward a bit and makes the bolts easier. Don't forget to unbolt the torque converter first, remove the rubber boots on the front of the box and using a screwdriver lever the ring gear around till the bolts are accessible thru the front hatch. There are 3 of these, and once out it's just a matter of either removing it right away, or propping the front and taking the motor out. Also don't forget the cable from box to throttle. With the radiator out there's lots of room, just make sure that all your pipes etc are undone, and it should lift out, nothing else needs to come off. Good luck. I did my first in and out in a day, so it can't be too hard.

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someone keen on my interior wants to know whether 2 door seats will fit in 4 door car ?

The only problem I can see is the rear bench seat maybe being different size but thats about it.

Ofcourse hte door cards wont work with it as well.

Cheers

Andy

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Hi there. Just wondering if anyone can help me out. I have a 1993 e36 320i and have a few questions...

1) When I turn my battery on and leave it on, their is a constant ticking sound coming from under the bonnet? Is this norm?

2) How can I replace my right indicator bulb thats in the dashboard? Very minor but may aswell replace it if its easy.

3) I'm currently selling some 16" mags on trademe that came off a 3 series bmw, offset = 38. I have been asked if these will fit an e28, I've tried searching but to no avail. Does anybody know?

Cheers

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