zero 1160 Report post Posted June 3, 2015 To answer one of my own questions, I managed to disassemble the lifters by putting one end in the vice and pulling the other end with pliers. I put a rag on each end to avoid any scratching. I still would like to know if I should keep them in order though, as it will make things much easier and faster if I don't have to. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B.M.W Ltd 950 Report post Posted June 3, 2015 What repair instructions are you using ? TIS does not give instructions for lifter disassembly only replacement. Don't mix or swap any valve gear you are removing. Use only reputable repair data or BMW TIS and follow instructions very carefully to prevent a disaster. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwi535 538 Report post Posted June 4, 2015 What repair instructions are you using ? TIS does not give instructions for lifter disassembly only replacement. Don't mix or swap any valve gear you are removing. Use only reputable repair data or BMW TIS and follow instructions very carefully to prevent a disaster.I say he using the zero repair manual 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B.M.W Ltd 950 Report post Posted June 4, 2015 I say he using the zero repair manual He'll need a big rubbish bin then 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1160 Report post Posted June 4, 2015 What repair instructions are you using ? TIS does not give instructions for lifter disassembly only replacement. Don't mix or swap any valve gear you are removing. Use only reputable repair data or BMW TIS and follow instructions very carefully to prevent a disaster. Thanks Glenn. I have kept all the parts in order. The head came back from the engine shop today with a clean bill of health. I had it checked and then decked. I think I will start a new thread on my engine rebuild so I dont hijack this one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B.M.W Ltd 950 Report post Posted June 4, 2015 (edited) Did they do any valve work, alter Valve stem heights or mix the valves up ? Once again... what repair instructions are you working with ? Edited June 4, 2015 by B.M.W Ltd 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vtgts300kw 90 Report post Posted June 4, 2015 Why would anyone do this to the alternator intake?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1160 Report post Posted June 4, 2015 Did they do any valve work, alter Valve stem heights or mix the valves up ? Once again... what repair instructions are you working with ? I went to Mark Wade at Wade Automotive in Penrose - he has been building engines for the race industry for decades. A bit grumpy, but very knowledgeable and experienced. No valve work. He checked the valve guides and said they weren't perfect, but not bad enough to need replacing. He checked the valves and seats too, and said they needed a valve grind but I was going to do that anyway. Regarding hydraulic lifters, basically all you are doing is disassembling, thoroughly cleaning them out, reassembling, and pre-priming them. Carbon and sludge gets in them and stops them working properly. I did a lot of reading, and this video was very helpful; 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1160 Report post Posted June 4, 2015 So I don't hijack this thread, I've made a new one for my engine build; http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/52977-n42n46-engine-rebuild/ 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vtgts300kw 90 Report post Posted June 4, 2015 ^ I reckon it's come loose at some stage and rubbed against the belt or pulley. Yeah I did think that. It probably is the most logical. Although the expansion tank had been hacked up to fit the radiator hose, so who knows. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kingkarl 136 Report post Posted June 10, 2015 I'm in need of a torque wrench. It will be used mainly for wrenching on motorcycles but it would be good if it was sized appropriately for cars as well. Any suggestions? I'm not looking for the best quality and it wont get used a whole lot... I just want something that wont fall to bits in 5 years time. cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3193 Report post Posted June 10, 2015 I'm in need of a torque wrench. It will be used mainly for wrenching on motorcycles but it would be good if it was sized appropriately for cars as well. Any suggestions? I'm not looking for the best quality and it wont get used a whole lot... I just want something that wont fall to bits in 5 years time. cheers I have an older SnapOn one that I've not used - if it is of interest I have no doubt we could come to some arrangement. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huff3r 347 Report post Posted June 20, 2015 So I topped up my oil this morning and put some stop leak in it (i know, bad idea!). Drove home and after the first 5 mins or so it started to lack power, and run a little rough. Now it's blowing out plumes of white smoke when it gets to temperature, and the idle is rough as... Am I looking at a blown headgasket? It didn't overheat or anything, just gradually began running rough etc. E36 318i with the M43B18 NB have done an oil change as I figured get that stop leak out, and it was mostly just running rough prior to that, now is billowing smoke. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2122 Report post Posted June 20, 2015 where was the oil getting out? perhaps oil is getting in the cylinders and being burned, stop leak just has a more noticeable colour?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huff3r 347 Report post Posted June 20, 2015 It was/is leaking straight into the gearbox/torque converter. Smoke seems to be more water than oil, as it doesn't leave residue on my hand if i hold it over the exhaust, and looks pretty white. Never noticed much smoke before except under hard acceleration. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonic_attack 89 Report post Posted July 13, 2015 e34 540i Noticed the temp has been on the low side for a few weeks. A little out of the "blue" when the heater fans are on full blast. When I switch the heater off it'll climb back to mid-table, but not quite middle where it's practically where it's always run since I've owned it. I suspect thermostat. Would anyone else? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kepes 231 Report post Posted July 20, 2015 What sort of shop/place would one go to to get control arm bushings pressed into the lollipop? Cheers :~) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1051 Report post Posted July 20, 2015 What sort of shop/place would one go to to get control arm bushings pressed into the lollipop? Cheers :~) Just buy a vice Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
max 27 Report post Posted August 11, 2015 I've trawled the interweb long enough on this without results so did e30's change the steering wheel spline between pre and post facelitft from course to fine? Have a shitty adpater that won't fit so I'm going to pull the trigger on a Momo adapter from Turner Motorsport. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eliongater 718 Report post Posted August 11, 2015 I've trawled the interweb long enough on this without results so did e30's change the steering wheel spline between pre and post facelitft from course to fine? Have a shitty adpater that won't fit so I'm going to pull the trigger on a Momo adapter from Turner Motorsport. Unless it's a super special wheel get a correct fitting wheel? Or are you able to change the spline on the column (no idea if you can) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 394 Report post Posted August 11, 2015 No it's the same throughout, cant change it without messing with the entire column. Probably the wrong adapter, not e30. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted August 11, 2015 You can change the steering shaft without removing or changing the column. I fitted a m3 /LHD steering shaft as it had a different coupler / universal spline. It was also a fly sh*t longer Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark 178 Report post Posted August 22, 2015 E30 power steering groans/creaks when almost at full lock and only when turning wheel left. Only does it at low speeds. Jacked the car up today and doesn't make the noise at all when wheels are off the ground. Noticed a slow drip of ATF from the drivers side of the steering rack. Does this mean a rack seal has gone? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2122 Report post Posted August 22, 2015 What sort of shop/place would one go to to get control arm bushings pressed into the lollipop? Cheers :~)An engineer shop would be cheaper than a mechanic, my guy has done it a few times for beer. Make sure they line the markings up correctly so they are orientated correctly Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rubix 434 Report post Posted August 24, 2015 Can't find this easily using google-fu. Does anyone know which battery i'll require for an E36 2-button key fob? Similar to the below except obviously OEM key.Currently at work and can't find a Philips small enough to pull it open, want to grab a battery on the way home. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
