zero 1160 Report post Posted January 1, 2016 How can I tell how old the fuel filter/regulator is on my car? It doesnt have any dates on it but looks reasonably clean. Dont wanna spend $100 on replacing it if it was done in the last 30,000kms. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1051 Report post Posted January 2, 2016 How can I tell how old the fuel filter/regulator is on my car? It doesnt have any dates on it but looks reasonably clean. Dont wanna spend $100 on replacing it if it was done in the last 30,000kms. Chances are, it's roughly the same age as your car 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1160 Report post Posted January 2, 2016 Chances are, it's roughly the same age as your car You are probably right. I will just replace it anyway. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wat 3 Report post Posted January 8, 2016 hey, any reason why my aircon in my 00' e46 would drain my fuel considerably like a noticeable difference? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1160 Report post Posted January 8, 2016 hey, any reason why my aircon in my 00' e46 would drain my fuel considerably like a noticeable difference? How do you know its the aircon doing it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terroth 5 Report post Posted January 9, 2016 Question to the E30 guys who have driveshaft loops, Did you bother with reinstalling the exhaust heat shield? Seems a bit like it would get in the way etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2122 Report post Posted January 9, 2016 trim to fit etc. make sure you have sheilding around the fuel tank obviously Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aja540i 1896 Report post Posted January 9, 2016 Thanks graham, will have a look when it stops raining.There are 2 e39s at pick a part in Takanini as of this morning, cheapest way to get 4 screws that i know of! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
twiggles94 8 Report post Posted January 10, 2016 There are 2 e39s at pick a part in Takanini as of this morning, cheapest way to get 4 screws that i know of! Hey Andy good looking out. Already got in and got out mate! Got a few other bonuses too. Cheers though much appreciated! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terroth 5 Report post Posted January 20, 2016 Seem to be going one issue to the next here... After some driving and warming the engine up (Questionable as the temp sensor doesn't seem to want to go much further past blue) I've noticed what seems to be a grinding or scraping sound around 3000-4000 and beyond RPM, its occuring within the engine bay, particularly the front section around the Fan or Belts. No loss of power or anything. It has nothing to do with speed, as when i stopped and gave it REV's it continued to appear. As part of service for this engine i did replace Alternator belt, Power Steering belt, timing belt and its tensioner, waterpump etc. Not entirely sure on whats causing it, perhaps one of the pulleys is giving out? I've read it may be some bearings that have gotten dirt in them or are on their way out, but I;ve little knowledge regarding any bearings so if someone could explain that it would be great. Perhaps the waterpump isn't getting lubricated enough as I am currently only running it on water, no coolant due to plans on flushing it this weekend. As far as i know, it doesn't seem too serious, and if it were occuring within the engine I'm sure it would be causing driving / power issues, which it is not. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2372 Report post Posted January 20, 2016 take aux belts off and see if noise remains? Check crank pulley bolt is still there and tight? Waterpump should be silent on water. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terroth 5 Report post Posted January 20, 2016 Crank pulley bolt is still there, think it'd take quite an effort to break that. I'll have to warm the engine up till the noise appears again and then see if i can quickly snap off the belts to check. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4015 Report post Posted January 20, 2016 Crank pulley bolt is still there, think it'd take quite an effort to break that. I'll have to warm the engine up till the noise appears again and then see if i can quickly snap off the belts to check. Take belts off and spin pulleys by hand, often you can hear the symptoms that way if they're giving out. Do you know if any have not been replaced? With an E30 they'll all be past their due date. If bearings have collapsed the pulley will grind, if the lube has gone/died they tend to squeal or whistle (before they collapse and grind). Could also be water pump, alternator or air pump - I'm not sure on an E30 which of these are belt driven through! Remove belts and run engine (briefly) to verify. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terroth 5 Report post Posted January 20, 2016 The car has no AC so that means the only possible bearings would be alternator or power steering correct? I just put the engine in the car, a B20 to B25 swap so all the belts are brand new from Pelican, but reused my same alternator / power steering pump from the old engine which hasn't run for about 6 months. Water pump is brand new too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4015 Report post Posted January 20, 2016 (edited) The car has no AC so that means the only possible bearings would be alternator or power steering correct? I just put the engine in the car, a B20 to B25 swap so all the belts are brand new from Pelican, but reused my same alternator / power steering pump from the old engine which hasn't run for about 6 months. Water pump is brand new too. Alternator, power steering, water pump + any pulleys (+air pump if the E30 has one). I'm not sure on the E30 layout but any pulleys need to be added to your list. Edit: pulleys have bearings. Edited January 20, 2016 by M3AN Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kepes 231 Report post Posted January 21, 2016 Differentiating manual trans fluid and engine oil....I have a very minor drip from the front of my gearbox (getrag 260) however I'm pretty sure it's engine oil that is making its way down the engine and dripping from the front of the gbox... I tried smelling the oil but it doesn't really smell like the oil on the dipstick or the manual trans oil I still have in a bottle. The oil is a dark-ish brown colour (suggesting that it's motor oil) but when I touch the oil after shutting the car off it is not hot like engine oil should be? Selector seal and output flange seal were both replaced about a year ago. I'm fairly sure it's engine oil but want to be certain.. Any ideas?Thaks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terroth 5 Report post Posted January 21, 2016 (edited) Are you able to jack the car up and then trace it back up? Could be the back of the valve cover leaking or oil sump as it goes all the way back to the transmission. Maybe compare it in color to your engine oil and gearbox oil? Gearbox should be reddish, but depending on age could be a darker brown, the filler plug is on the side and depending on the gearbox should be a 17mm male hex socket, stick a finger in there and compare the colors. Both the seals on the transmission are in the rear so if it was the transmission it would be by the driveshaft or the side / mid section were the filler and drain plugs are. Edited January 21, 2016 by Terroth 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2372 Report post Posted January 21, 2016 Probably need to see where its coming from, as depending on the box it can take either MTF or ATF. ATF as mentioned would be red in color, but MTF would be pale brown (like engine oil). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kepes 231 Report post Posted January 22, 2016 Probably need to see where its coming from, as depending on the box it can take either MTF or ATF. ATF as mentioned would be red in color, but MTF would be pale brown (like engine oil). Checked it today by opening the filler hole and comparing colours. Definitely not trans oil, as colour doesn't match and the trans is full. (thanks for the suggestion Rhett!) Looks like engine oil leaking from the sump Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted February 2, 2016 (edited) Have noticed in the last week that the E30 is getting a little hot under the collar at idle when running at operating temp. Replaced the thermostat with a low temp one (didn't realise there were two types for the M10s) so unlikely to be that. Bled system after replacement - possibly the waterpump giving up the ghost??? Edit: the electric fan is wired through a switch on the dash - if I leave it running the temp stays in an acceptable range. Should probably check the viscous coupling out too :s Edited February 2, 2016 by Ahmedsinc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 593 Report post Posted February 4, 2016 So touring2.0, e36 328i single vanos, is at the shop trying to find this cam sensor fault. Has a brand new sensor, no difference, continuity to ecu is fine, have plugged sensor into oscilloscope but isn't showing any signal when cranked. What what cause the sensor not to pick anything up at all? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aja540i 1896 Report post Posted February 4, 2016 So touring2.0, e36 328i single vanos, is at the shop trying to find this cam sensor fault. Has a brand new sensor, no difference, continuity to ecu is fine, have plugged sensor into oscilloscope but isn't showing any signal when cranked. What what cause the sensor not to pick anything up at all? Too far from the trigger wheel to see it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 4, 2016 Is it a genuine sensor sourced by chassis # Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1258 Report post Posted February 4, 2016 So touring2.0, e36 328i single vanos, is at the shop trying to find this cam sensor fault. Has a brand new sensor, no difference, continuity to ecu is fine, have plugged sensor into oscilloscope but isn't showing any signal when cranked. What what cause the sensor not to pick anything up at all? genuine or ebay china special ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2372 Report post Posted February 4, 2016 is it triggered by a notched wheel, or a pin like the S50? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
