Jump to content
E30stz

Quick Questions

Recommended Posts

Anyone ever replaced the bush on an E8/9x blower motor?

Ive lubed mine previously using a light machine oil, and it solved it for 6 months, now its squeeking again. Spending $200 on a new assembly seems crazy when its just the bush ? 

Tempted to try pull it out and replace it with a bearing. 

 

Edited by Jacko

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, gjm said:

The cap unscrews without any problem - it's what is normally in the cap (and seals in the reservoir neck) which is pulling free.

My biggest concern is damaging the reservoir.

I had one break but it left enough to get some polygrips onto it. You could drive two screws into it and then lay a screwdriver between them to wind it out.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did I accidentally buy the first e46 330 convertible?

WBABS52010EH85001, manufactured 02/02/2000, has the following options

S916A Dummy-SALAPA (development vehicle?)
S925A Dummy-SALAPA
S991A Pre-production management

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, eliongater said:

Did I accidentally buy the first e46 330 convertible?

WBABS52010EH85001, manufactured 02/02/2000, has the following options

S916A Dummy-SALAPA (development vehicle?)
S925A Dummy-SALAPA
S991A Pre-production management

 

maybe a nz display car 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've got a 3.0 L Z3 with both 916 development vehicle and 991 pre series management in the VIN decode. Anyone know what these codes mean?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

E46 msport steering wheel airbag emblem, mines been removed (perhaps by a knife!?). The airbag's been replaced under the recall according to BMW. Is my best bet to find a replacement emblem and stick it on (not sure how that works if it goes off) or find a replacement airbag?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, eliongater said:

E46 msport steering wheel airbag emblem, mines been removed (perhaps by a knife!?). The airbag's been replaced under the recall according to BMW. Is my best bet to find a replacement emblem and stick it on (not sure how that works if it goes off) or find a replacement airbag?

So the emblem was removed after the airbag way recently replaced?

Either way, it's a $5 v's $100's proposition and on that basis alone I'd replace the emblem only, your airbag is practically brand new. I suspect the whole front flap folds up upon inflation (needs to be confirmed) and in that case replacing the aluminium emblem is simple, just get one from ebay.

 

Edited by M3AN
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/3/2018 at 2:40 PM, eliongater said:

E46 msport steering wheel airbag emblem, mines been removed (perhaps by a knife!?). The airbag's been replaced under the recall according to BMW. Is my best bet to find a replacement emblem and stick it on (not sure how that works if it goes off) or find a replacement airbag?

Emblem comes with the airbagand can't buy new individually so best bet to find one 2nd hand or aftermarket 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

a Friend's E87 116i couldn't start and was diagnosed as having some computer issues.  after getting that fixed for 2.1k, it still couldn't start, and as such, the company Auckland Mobile Mechanics suggested t hat they should replace the engine for 4.5k. I can't help but feel they are being taken for a ride. invoice as below. I wonder if we can pull the car out? and who are the best guys to go to? Capxccture.thumb.PNG.7b04ef0a73d58c7c2f08d68fc983e981.PNG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, lord_jagganath said:

a Friend's E87 116i couldn't start and was diagnosed as having some computer issues.  after getting that fixed for 2.1k, it still couldn't start, and as such, the company Auckland Mobile Mechanics suggested t hat they should replace the engine for 4.5k. I can't help but feel they are being taken for a ride. invoice as below. I wonder if we can pull the car out? and who are the best guys to go to? Capxccture.thumb.PNG.7b04ef0a73d58c7c2f08d68fc983e981.PNG

Sounds like fitters rather than mechanics. You don't replace an engine just because it doesn't start!
Get it out of there and take it to a BMW specialist. Which one may be dictated a little by current location (and a shame that Glenn has closed up shop) but there are good people around.

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Get the vehicle to BMWorkshop Grey Lynn or Botany in the new year. They are closed for the holiday period now

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sh*t yeah, sounds like someone hasnt scanned/diagnosed the car properly, and actually gotten to the root cause. Thats a lot of money they have just burned for probably no reason.

  • Sad 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

E36 spinning ignition barrel issue. Mine seems to do it some times, and the  key just free spins. You wiggle it a bit and eventually it works and keeps working ok for a bit. I have googled and some people say there is a pin that just needs to be aligned, but has anyone here fixed this before and was it that simple or should i just replace the barrel?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just drill and grub screw it in place, have done a few with no issues 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
32 minutes ago, dirtydoogle said:

Just drill and grub screw it in place, have done a few with no issues 

Like this thread? just a screw through the housing?

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1518698-Spinning-ignition-lock-cylinder-tumbler-fix-WITHOUT-having-to-buy-any-new-parts

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Replacing a water pump...

Recommendation for the o-ring seal is to lubricate with white lithium grease to assist sealing and assembly.

I thought I had some... But no.

Could I (sparingly) use red rubber grease instead?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes you can Graham. But if there are signs of corrosion inside the housing I would use loctite master gasket

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

Yes you can Graham. But if there are signs of corrosion inside the housing I would use loctite master gasket

Thanks Glenn.
Clean as a whistle in the seal land. Quite remarkable actually, as the pump has obviously been leaking, or has leaked, for a while. Car was parked up for months and while the 'top' of the pulley shaft is beautiful, the lower 2/3 has surface rust.

I'll sparingly apply red rubber grease. It's to lubricate and seal - I thought a water-resistant non-setting grease would be good. Thought about vaseline, but there's much less heat resistance there.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

M62B44. Probably a TU engine... It's in a 2002 model year Range Rover.

What goes wrong with them? Are they expensive to fix? I had someone contact me about one with "engine problems" and the dealer apparently "suggest rebuild or replacement."

Edit: Just been advised that it's "timing chain failure," "unsure about other internal damage," and that the "dealer suggests engine replacement. Could be anything from $6000 to $11000." 

What damage does a failed timing chain present in these? Is the dealer scaremongering, or is it likely that there is 220kg of scrap metal in the engine bay?

It's cheap. Might be a bit of fun, if I can sort it without throwing a mortgage at it.

Edited by gjm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Plastic guides disintegrate then chain flaps about and chews up engine casing and nearby parts and puts metal shavings into engine. 

Usually makes a horrific noise before catastrophic failure and you can just replace chain and guides and flush engine oil. Will be 16-30 hours labour though. 

Second hand m62 can probably be had for cheap.

Check oil filter in sun for metal filings, check sump for plastic guides pieces and metal filings. 

Edited by andrewm
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Depends what you mean by cheap and what the car is worth if its fixed.

IIRC the full timing chain kit it self was $1000-$1500 depending on how far you go + shipping and taxes. Then you need to buy or borrow the timing tools and have the tools and time to do the rest of the required work.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, andrewm said:

Plastic guides disintegrate then chain flaps about and chews up engine casing and nearby parts and puts metal shavings into engine. 

Usually makes a horrific noise before catastrophic failure and you can just replace chain and guides and flush engine oil. Will be 16-30 hours labour though. 

Second hand m62 can probably be had for cheap.

Check oil filter in sun for metal filings, check sump for plastic guides pieces and metal filings. 

Sounds like a lot will depend on just how long noises were ignored for!

1 hour ago, Eagle said:

Depends what you mean by cheap and what the car is worth if its fixed.

IIRC the full timing chain kit it self was $1000-$1500 depending on how far you go + shipping and taxes. Then you need to buy or borrow the timing tools and have the tools and time to do the rest of the required work.

Time, I have. Tools... Probably. (With the likely exception of timing tools specific to the M62.)

Value? Possibly. If it works to be $2-3k in total (on top of purchase price) it might be worth doing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...