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@Gaz - I'm sure this won't help you, other than providing sanity comfort, but the one in my old 328 looked exactly as in your picture... when you say "threaded" - which part are you referring to?

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Haha cheers @M3AN I'll try explain a little better. That is my old pump, and the elbow fitting at the front (think it's the return) slides out. The new pump doesn't have an elbow fitting, but the pump is threaded where the elbow fitting goes 

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3 minutes ago, Gaz said:

Haha cheers @M3AN I'll try explain a little better. That is my old pump, and the elbow fitting at the front (think it's the return) slides out. The new pump doesn't have an elbow fitting, but the pump is threaded where the elbow fitting goes 

Interesting... threaded (female?) as in you could screw in an elbow fitting? Because without the 90* the hose won't even fit...

Have you tried unscrewing the elbow from your old pump? I've never tried that but perhaps it comes out?

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14 minutes ago, M3AN said:

Interesting... threaded (female?) as in you could screw in an elbow fitting? Because without the 90* the hose won't even fit...

Have you tried unscrewing the elbow from your old pump? I've never tried that but perhaps it comes out?

That's the problem, old one slides out, no threads. New one does 

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3 minutes ago, Gaz said:

That's the problem, old one slides out, no threads. New one does 

Je comprends, merci.

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Real quick one.

Given the choice, which is a better car to own? Taking into account reliability, comfort, running cost, suitability for home maintenance... (Performance and purchase price are not a consideration.)

2001 BMW E46 318i (M43B19)
1994 BMW E34 520i (M52B20)

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I'd go for the 2001 BMW E46 318i (M43B19)

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17 minutes ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

I'd go for the 2001 BMW E46 318i (M43B19)

Because fewer cylinders, less complexity and maintenance cost, simpler, newer car?

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2 hours ago, gjm said:

Because fewer cylinders, less complexity and maintenance cost, simpler, newer car?

Yes ? You forgot "RUST"

Edited by B.M.W Ltd
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3 hours ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

I'd go for the 2001 BMW E46 318i (M43B19)

definitely this. its still a fantastic car overall, good chassis/platform with a decent 4 pot engine. 2001 is also nice and newish in comparison.

runs fine on the cheap 91 petrol etc etc

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1 hour ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

Yes ? You forgot "RUST"

?
I had forgotten rust. 

48 minutes ago, qube said:

definitely this. its still a fantastic car overall, good chassis/platform with a decent 4 pot engine. 2001 is also nice and newish in comparison.

runs fine on the cheap 91 petrol etc etc

Cool.
The question was for her young self, Miss M. I think she has inherited her father's itchy car gene - the desire to try something else. I'll try to persuade her that as a student the funds aren't avaialble to do that.
Besides, I've just bought new brake pads for her car...

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6 hours ago, gjm said:

Because fewer cylinders, less complexity and maintenance cost, simpler, newer car?

Also yearly vs 6 monthly WOFs.

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To me it would mainly depend on condition of each and country of origin, both are decent choices and i couldn't say one is truly better than the other even though id probably go with the E34.

Main issues i have with the E46 M43 are the potential very expensive failures ($450+ DISA valve and ABS module) but M52 has more smaller problems which can add up costing a bit. If you dont care about performance and are in it for the long haul then the E34 suspension is noticeably cheaper, stronger and generally easier to work on. 

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A couple of the clips securing the exterior drivers door trim on Miss Ms car have become 'old', probably brittle, and are no longer securing the black plastic trim. This has led to the end sitting slightly 'away' from the door, and when I walked past it I caught it with my trouser leg, and exacerbated the problem.

Need a quick fix. Double-sided tape? Any recommendations?

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10 minutes ago, gjm said:

A couple of the clips securing the exterior drivers door trim on Miss Ms car have become 'old', probably brittle, and are no longer securing the black plastic trim. This has led to the end sitting slightly 'away' from the door, and when I walked past it I caught it with my trouser leg, and exacerbated the problem.

Need a quick fix. Double-sided tape? Any recommendations?

3M VHB, expensive but effective.

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40 minutes ago, aja540i said:

3M VHB, expensive but effective.

Errmm... Which one is best suited?
Prices vary quite considerably! From what i have quickly found, it looks like most are a foam-type tape.

Found this: https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2619495820
Price is certainly right, but the delivery time - ex-China - doesn't excite me.
I suspect it is a few metres in length, while most NZ sources appear to sell as a 33m reel.

 

Edited by gjm

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Bunnings have a double sided water proof tape I've used at work and home. I can't remember the brand but it has a green backing. It's quite often used for installing mirrors in bathrooms

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15 minutes ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

Bunnings have a double sided water proof tape I've used at work and home. I can't remember the brand but it has a green backing. It's quite often used for installing mirrors in bathrooms

Thanks.
You'd have to hope it can secure a piece of plastic trim!

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17 minutes ago, gjm said:

Thanks.
You'd have to hope it can secure a piece of plastic trim!

It sure will . I mounted my number plates with it and a sky box in the motor home. I've used it for heaps of things. I've got 1.5 rolls here which I need. You will need braid fishing line to get it off. It might be 3m but I can't find it on their web site. The rolls are not big... about 60mm diameter and 16mm wide. The tape is black with a green backing tape

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3 hours ago, gjm said:

Errmm... Which one is best suited?
Prices vary quite considerably! From what i have quickly found, it looks like most are a foam-type tape.

Found this: https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2619495820
Price is certainly right, but the delivery time - ex-China - doesn't excite me.
I suspect it is a few metres in length, while most NZ sources appear to sell as a 33m reel.

 

The one I use is a clear, about 1.5mm thick gel like tape with a red backing, used by signwriters etc, it will pull the paint off your doors if you're not careful! I got mine from Bunnings, we get it at work through Primepac in much larger rolls.

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Mrs Ms car - E30, 325.

Battery went flat over Covid but as the car wasn't used, I didn't worry especially. 

Charged it, sight glass was green, suggesting it's OK. 

Drove it to work this morning - no problem. Came out this evening and it may have been a little slower turning over. Stopped to buy bread on the way home, came out and... Very reluctant to turn over before ticking the solenoid. Will not start. 

Lights seem OK. Bright. Dim a little when turning the ignition key. 

Going to get a jump start, but is the problem a duff battery (unknown age but good make) or has the alternator called time? 

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Only real way to tell is to load test the battery or check voltage when the car is running and see if the alt is charging it. If you don't know the age of the battery, it's probably given up and dropped a cell.

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Hooked up for a jump start - started first turn of the engine.

Drove home - 20km or so - without any problems.

Got home, engine continued to run without issue, suggesting alternator is OK.

Left running, found multimeter. 13.8-13.9V across the battery terminals (engine running). Would have liked to see 14.2, but this is still reasonable. Turn engine off - 12.2V on battery. Tried starting - no go. Just solenoid ticking, and shown battery voltage dropped to well under 9V.

Condition glass on the battery still shows a beautiful green, so yes - sounds (to me) like a dropped cell. :( 

I'll find a nice Bosch S5 for it, tomorrow.

Edited by gjm

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Magic eye doesn't always mean sh*t. Load test is most reliable way to confirm battery status

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1 hour ago, gjm said:

...

Got home, engine continued to run without issue, suggesting alternator is OK.

Left running, found multimeter. 13.8-13.9V across the battery terminals (engine running). Would have liked to see 14.2, but this is still reasonable. Turn engine off - 12.2V on battery. Tried starting - no go. Just solenoid ticking, and shown battery voltage dropped to well under 9V.

...

Hmm, that battery sounds good enough for at least one start... sure your starter is okay? I don't have any meaningful E30 knowledge but can you reach the starter with a dead blow hammer to give it a tap when you can hear the 'noid?

I'm not suggesting the battery is not the culprit but I'd want to eliminate the starter before buying a new battery.

Either way, when I did my research ~8 months ago these guys: https://www.mrpositive.co.nz/ had the best price by quite some margin for a Bosch S5.

Edited by M3AN
8 months, not 6

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