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16 minutes ago, Kepes said:

E30 - I've got a new sunroof seal. Being a pre-facelift it comes from the factory with a 2 piece seal. I'm replacing it with the 1 piece seal from the facelift.  Where should the 2 ends of the seal meet? Is there a spot that's better than others? Or if anyone with a facelift could please tell me where they join from the factory, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks :~)

I'm not sure if it's the correct spot, but I had mine meet in the middle at the rear. 

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1 hour ago, Kepes said:

E30 - I've got a new sunroof seal. Being a pre-facelift it comes from the factory with a 2 piece seal. I'm replacing it with the 1 piece seal from the facelift.  Where should the 2 ends of the seal meet? Is there a spot that's better than others? Or if anyone with a facelift could please tell me where they join from the factory, I would really appreciate it.

 

1 hour ago, nick496 said:

I'm not sure if it's the correct spot, but I had mine meet in the middle at the rear. 

I think the two-piece seal is joined on the sides, a couple of inches back from the front edge. Perhaps have the single strip join in the same location?

A seal at the back could be susceptible to having water pushed towards the back of the opening panel, and possibly collecting where the seal join is. Maybe.

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16 minutes ago, gjm said:

 

I think the two-piece seal is joined on the sides, a couple of inches back from the front edge. Perhaps have the single strip join in the same location?

A seal at the back could be susceptible to having water pushed towards the back of the opening panel, and possibly collecting where the seal join is. Maybe.

Yup, you're right about where the two-piece comes together. Good logic regarding the one-piece (I thought to join it there too) however I think the back, in the middle, is the correct spot. A guy on E30 facebook group said that's where his comes together too. 
 

1 hour ago, nick496 said:

I'm not sure if it's the correct spot, but I had mine meet in the middle at the rear. 

Cheers Nick!

Edited by Kepes

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Can anyone identify this engine? It's either an m30 or m90.

4148346

35 6e a

356ea

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39 minutes ago, eliongater said:

Can anyone identify this engine? It's either an m30 or m90.

4148346

35 6e a

356ea

Probably be easier to tell from a picture. The early M90 has a raised water passage along the drivers side of the block along the freeze plugs; the later M90 block looks more similar to the M30.
If it is a M90, there should be a white "L" painted on the passenger side of the block.

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13 hours ago, eliongater said:

Can anyone identify this engine? It's either an m30 or m90.

4148346

35 6e a

356ea

http://bmwfans.info/vin/decoder?vin=4148346

 

yes m90 style block

93.36mm bore

Edited by BM WORLD
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5 hours ago, BM WORLD said:

http://bmwfans.info/vin/decoder?vin=4148346

 

yes m90 style block

93.36mm bore

Thanks Brent. 4148346 is stamped on the block where the 7 digit engine number should be, which is confusing. @Jono51 thinks it’s a replacement engine, so perhaps they stamped the vin of the car there instead of the engine number?

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On ‎6‎/‎9‎/‎2018 at 4:01 PM, eliongater said:

Thanks Brent. 4148346 is stamped on the block where the 7 digit engine number should be, which is confusing. @Jono51 thinks it’s a replacement engine, so perhaps they stamped the vin of the car there instead of the engine number?

most of those early cars had the vin number on the block , or a number which shows up in the vin decode .

what car is it in ?

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18 minutes ago, BM WORLD said:

most of those early cars had the vin number on the block , or a number which shows up in the vin decode .

what car is it in ?

It's not currently in a car and hasn't been for a long time. The guy who had it had e12s and e3s.

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What's the recommended way to loosen belts with these types of mechanical tensioner?

Mine doesn't have a hex molded into the housing (not shown in this picture) so the only thing to "grab" is bolt #5 in the diagram... except that just spins. I can remove the whole unit and get the pulley (#3) off by undoing #5 and #7 but ultimately that's no help.

I realise I'd be better off upgrading to a hydraulic unit but I see no need to go to that expense since this one is holding tension just fine. I just can't loosen it to get a belt on.

TIA.

diag_od.png

 

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Can you get a spanner onto #7?

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15 minutes ago, M3AN said:

What's the recommended way to loosen belts with these types of mechanical tensioner?

Mine doesn't have a hex molded into the housing (not shown in this picture) so the only thing to "grab" is bolt #5 in the diagram... except that just spins. I can remove the whole unit and get the pulley (#3) off by undoing #5 and #7 but ultimately that's no help.

I realise I'd be better off upgrading to a hydraulic unit but I see no need to go to that expense since this one is holding tension just fine. I just can't loosen it to get a belt on.

TIA.

Stick a shallow socket onto the 'bolt' built into the tensioner in the picture attached and turn. I forget what it is, but it's a regular size, maybe 16mm?

EDIT: Oh, yours don't look like these eh. Yeah, you be screwed. :)

tensioner.jpg

Edited by Gabe79
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Thanks guys.

4 minutes ago, zero said:

Can you get a spanner onto #7?

Yes, when it's off the car... I doubt it when it's on the car without removing the alternator and then I wouldn't be able to install the belt.

What did you have in mind?

2 minutes ago, Gabe79 said:

Stick a shallow socket onto the 'bolt' built into the tensioner in the picture attached and turn. I forget what it is, but it's a regular size, maybe 16mm?

Yes, that's what I was hoping (and expecting) to find but my housing doesn't have that hex... mine looks identical to the diagram. so slightly different to yours... :(

 

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2 minutes ago, M3AN said:

Thanks guys.

Yes, when it's off the car... I doubt it when it's on the car without removing the alternator and then I wouldn't be able to install the belt.

What did you have in mind?

Yes, that's what I was hoping (and expecting) to find but my housing doesn't have that hex... mine looks identical to the diagram. so slightly different to yours... :(

 

Mine is the original on the left, and the OEM replacement on the right. Can you post a picture of yours? I have seem a technique on youtube where you stick a star socket onto the pulley and turn. If you have no bolt... maybe that?

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16 minutes ago, M3AN said:

Thanks guys.

Yes, when it's off the car... I doubt it when it's on the car without removing the alternator and then I wouldn't be able to install the belt.

What did you have in mind?

If you can tighten the bolt tight enough it might be able to be used to release the tension on the tensioner.

If not, your tensioner might be faulty?

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I don't think I can tighten it that much, no... looks like this...

Tensioner.jpg

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Okay, I worked out how to fix that ^ mechanical tensioner.

1. Drive 12 mins to Zebra Pick-A-Part

2. Spend 3 mins finding the only 6 cylinder BMW that's there

4. Take 5 mins to test and remove hydraulic tensioner

5. Pay $15

6. Drive 12 mins home

7. Spend 10 mins installing new tensioner and belts

8. Victory dance

NewTensioner.jpg

The problem with Pick-A-Part is coming home with more than you intended... practically mint.

MRainFronts.jpg

 

Edited by M3AN
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Have you tried using a set of multi grip pliers  and get a grip of the lug on the tensioner then move it in the direction which loosens the belt .This should put the lug on the other side of the hole on the mounting plate put a suitable sized allen key in the hole this will lock the unit up. It is easier to do with the type that has the hex nut hope that helps.

 

 

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Cheap vacuum pump needed for a school project. We have a tube of approx 1.6L volume in which we want to create a vacuum (ideally as close to 30Hg as possible. Any ideas for a cheap diy solution?

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30mm Hg? Vacuum cleaner with lots of holes in the pipe?

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5 hours ago, C-130 Hercules said:

Cheap vacuum pump needed for a school project. We have a tube of approx 1.6L volume in which we want to create a vacuum (ideally as close to 30Hg as possible. Any ideas for a cheap diy solution?

mmHg, or inHg?

How air tight is the container, and do you need to build vacuum quickly, or does it just need to maintain the vacuum?

How soon do you need something?

I have quite a surprising collection of crap that I collect for nerd projects B), and have an almost unlimited source of interesting goodies from old stuff at work.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Allanw said:

mmHg, or inHg?

How air tight is the container, and do you need to build vacuum quickly, or does it just need to maintain the vacuum?

How soon do you need something?

I have quite a surprising collection of crap that I collect for nerd projects B), and have an almost unlimited source of interesting goodies from old stuff at work.

 

 

Thanks Allan - need to complete it today 😩 Not too Fußes if it takes a little while to create vac (happy to wait a few mins) and like to maintain it for 20-30 seconds. Have attempted to use a foot pump with deflator function but that does not work unless I would install a vac valve I guess. Brake bleed pump would take ages I think. Thinking to try it with an electric inflator/deflator pump but might also not be strong enough. 

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Doh... can't help today then 😞

Hook it up to manifold vacuum on the car - just get a long hose 🙂

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6 hours ago, Allanw said:

Doh... can't help today then 😞

Hook it up to manifold vacuum on the car - just get a long hose 🙂

Been thinking the same thing. I also just remembered that I should have an old AC compressor lying around somewhere...

Edited by C-130 Hercules
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An indicator flashing at double speed normally indicates (Lol) a bulb out. But what if the indicator is flashing at double speed, but all bulbs are lighting? What could cause that?

It's only happening on the right turn - left is fine following a bulb replacement - and it sometimes returns to normal flash speed. 😕

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