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2 hours ago, gjm said:

An indicator flashing at double speed normally indicates (Lol) a bulb out. But what if the indicator is flashing at double speed, but all bulbs are lighting? What could cause that?

It's only happening on the right turn - left is fine following a bulb replacement - and it sometimes returns to normal flash speed. 😕

What car?

Wrong bulb, though this would be a constant issue

Bad connection in a bulb holder

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On 6/29/2018 at 11:06 PM, hotwire said:

What car?

Wrong bulb, though this would be a constant issue

Bad connection in a bulb holder

E46 318i.

I'll check all the bulbs abd holders for corrosion, and values/types.

Update: following a visit to Kyu's for coffee and chat on Sunday morning, the consensus seems to be a wiring issue with the supply or earth to the rear offside indicator bulb. We swapped the bulbs - same problem - but using the hazard lights shows no issue, other than the rear offside being not as bright (regardless of bulb) as the nearside.

Edited by gjm

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Are all E60's plagued with sensor and electrical issues or just mine!?*&%😼

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Reviving an old battery...

Is it possible to bring a dead battery back to life? The one I have in mind is a completely sealed lead acid 12V car battery... Currently showing about 5V.

I have had some success in the past with topping up with distilled (or clean rain) water, throwing 14V across it for a bit, and then charging hard (6A) for a while, but that approach isn't practical this time.

It got this way by sitting unused for an extended period of time. It was OK, did start a car before being left in the garage...

Can't afford a new on at the moment!

Edited by gjm

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As a rule, once they get below 1.5V per cell (there are 6 cells), they will never recover, even .  Though they will hold charge, they won’t have any amps and any draw will drop the volts, below 1V per cell is proper f**ked.  There is a machine that can shock charge them to try dislodge the calcification, but it’s hit and miss.  I’ll spare you the chemistry lesson.

I get trade at YHI, but not sure if I can get you one near you and freight would be a bitch.

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4 hours ago, EUROLESS said:

As a rule, once they get below 1.5V per cell (there are 6 cells), they will never recover, even .  Though they will hold charge, they won’t have any amps and any draw will drop the volts, below 1V per cell is proper f**ked.  There is a machine that can shock charge them to try dislodge the calcification, but it’s hit and miss.  I’ll spare you the chemistry lesson.

I get trade at YHI, but not sure if I can get you one near you and freight would be a bitch.

I thought that might be the case, but it was worth asking. I've typically worked on the theory that anything under 10V is done.

Edited by gjm

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OK - next question.

While the battery is out of the car, reducing the likelihood of an airbag going off, I've been investigating the lack of ability to open the passenger door from the outside. (It works fine from inside the car.)

Please see here: 

Any thoughts on the simplest way to resolve this?

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E36 M43 automativ vs E46 M43TU automatic...

What are the differences in gearboxes? Would a later M43TU bolt up to the gearbox in an E36?

Thinking ahead a bit... 🤔

(No - not looking for a SxxByy conversion! ;) )

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37 minutes ago, gjm said:

E36 M43 automativ vs E46 M43TU automatic...

What are the differences in gearboxes? Would a later M43TU bolt up to the gearbox in an E36?

Thinking ahead a bit... 🤔

(No - not looking for a SxxByy conversion! ;) )

bolt up yes , electrically work ,NO

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11 minutes ago, BM WORLD said:

bolt up yes , electrically work ,NO

I suspected that might be the case. :(

Pity.

 

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Hi,

Can anyone please help me in telling me what kind of coolant i am suposed to use? I want to do a radiator  flush as there is only water in the radiator system at the moment and would like to put coolant in.. I have heard BMW's need a very particular kind of coolant? any advise greatly appreciated thanks!

 

Vehicle itself is:

 Make: BMW

Model: 318iS 

Generation: E36

Year: 1996 

 

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34 minutes ago, orchardlaser said:

Can anyone please help me in telling me what kind of coolant i am suposed to use? I want to do a radiator  flush as there is only water in the radiator system at the moment and would like to put coolant in.. I have heard BMW's need a very particular kind of coolant? any advise greatly appreciated

I've been using 'green' coolant in all our cars. I don't think the E36 (or E46, for that matter) is particularly picky about coolant - just make sure that whatever you buy is a good quality. Most decent coolants will state on the packaging that they are suitable for BMW, Mercedes, VW, etc.

I seem to be becoming a bit of a Penrite fanboy these days - I've been using this:

A1270778.jpg?context=bWFzdGVyfGltYWdlc3wxMjk2MTd8aW1hZ2UvanBlZ3xzeXMtbWFzdGVyL2ltYWdlcy9oMWUvaGQ2LzkyMjMwMzc1ODMzOTAvQTEyNzA3NzguanBnfDZjZmZlODlmMWRlOWFjYmQ1YWE2OWFiMWE2ZWUzZGZlODQ1NTQ0ZTE0YzU0Mzg2NDQzMWUwZTFmOGM5Y2FjNjg

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48 minutes ago, gjm said:

I've been using 'green' coolant in all our cars. I don't think the E36 (or E46, for that matter) is particularly picky about coolant - just make sure that whatever you buy is a good quality. Most decent coolants will state on the packaging that they are suitable for BMW, Mercedes, VW, etc.

I seem to be becoming a bit of a Penrite fanboy these days - I've been using this:

A1270778.jpg?context=bWFzdGVyfGltYWdlc3wxMjk2MTd8aW1hZ2UvanBlZ3xzeXMtbWFzdGVyL2ltYWdlcy9oMWUvaGQ2LzkyMjMwMzc1ODMzOTAvQTEyNzA3NzguanBnfDZjZmZlODlmMWRlOWFjYmQ1YWE2OWFiMWE2ZWUzZGZlODQ1NTQ0ZTE0YzU0Mzg2NDQzMWUwZTFmOGM5Y2FjNjg

Graham, that is wrong.

The incorrect coolant damages the aluminium parts it comes in contact with.

Always use the blue bmw stuff.

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I remain sceptical about the "only use BMW coolant" message.

It stands to reason that there are millions of BMWs out there that aren't using BMW coolant and aren't falling apart as a result.

But I'm a bit of a fence sitter also, I use BMW coolant in the M3 and regular green coolant in the 328.

 

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1 hour ago, zero said:

Graham, that is wrong.

The incorrect coolant damages the aluminium parts it comes in contact with.

Always use the blue bmw stuff.

Fair comment. Applies to iron block/ally head cars too? I'll confess - I'm a bit concerned now! The 500SE has ally heads!

1 hour ago, M3AN said:

I remain sceptical about the "only use BMW coolant" message.

It stands to reason that there are millions of BMWs out there that aren't using BMW coolant and aren't falling apart as a result.

But I'm a bit of a fence sitter also, I use BMW coolant in the M3 and regular green coolant in the 328.

I've not had any problems using it in Mercedes, Audi, BMW and others... Doesn't mean I won't.

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a bit of bmw blue coolant + distilled water and away you go.

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some of the newer cars with electric water pumps need special coolant, but in an older car any antifreeze is better than none. I use the BMW stuff because its not much more expensive and why not!

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2 hours ago, aja540i said:

...I use the BMW stuff because its not much more expensive...

Not sure what you're comparing it to but it's 400% more expensive than the green stuff from various brands. Yep, four times the price.

Edited by M3AN

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6 minutes ago, M3AN said:

Not sure what you're comparing it to but it's 400% more expensive than the green stuff from various brands. Yep, four times the price.

That's before those of us in sticksville have to drive 50km to find a dealer to buy it from! ;)

 

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34 minutes ago, M3AN said:

Not sure what you're comparing it to but it's 400% more expensive than the green stuff from various brands. Yep, four times the price.

The BMW stuff is pre-mixed, if you use the other stuff you have to factor in the cost of the water to mix with it!! ;)

18022016_145016_zgV28a.jpg.807a18fd5e91496701bf809f472f5bb3.jpg

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Still, or sparkling?

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2 minutes ago, gjm said:

Still, or sparkling?

Sparkling for the M5, still for everything else!!

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Anyone know if the PDC sensors on an E8/9x are coded for specific canbus addresses, or if they are a simple sensor that plugs into the loom and that assigns which position its in. Im wondering if Ive switch two around, or have a dicky/dirty connector. 

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They are only different front and rear. Plug A play. If you turn ignition on with one disconnected it will throw a fault code. Clear fault codes and recheck in live data if fault persists to determine where the fault is

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2 hours ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

They are only different front and rear. Plug A play. If you turn ignition on with one disconnected it will throw a fault code. Clear fault codes and recheck in live data if fault persists to determine where the fault is

Sweet, must be a dirty connector. I cleaned them all out with contact cleaner but suspect it probably blew dirt back down into the plug. Throws codes for front left and front right

 

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