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2 hours ago, gjm said:

An indicator flashing at double speed normally indicates (Lol) a bulb out. But what if the indicator is flashing at double speed, but all bulbs are lighting? What could cause that?

It's only happening on the right turn - left is fine following a bulb replacement - and it sometimes returns to normal flash speed. 😕

What car?

Wrong bulb, though this would be a constant issue

Bad connection in a bulb holder

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On 6/29/2018 at 11:06 PM, hotwire said:

What car?

Wrong bulb, though this would be a constant issue

Bad connection in a bulb holder

E46 318i.

I'll check all the bulbs abd holders for corrosion, and values/types.

Update: following a visit to Kyu's for coffee and chat on Sunday morning, the consensus seems to be a wiring issue with the supply or earth to the rear offside indicator bulb. We swapped the bulbs - same problem - but using the hazard lights shows no issue, other than the rear offside being not as bright (regardless of bulb) as the nearside.

Edited by gjm

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Are all E60's plagued with sensor and electrical issues or just mine!?*&%😼

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Reviving an old battery...

Is it possible to bring a dead battery back to life? The one I have in mind is a completely sealed lead acid 12V car battery... Currently showing about 5V.

I have had some success in the past with topping up with distilled (or clean rain) water, throwing 14V across it for a bit, and then charging hard (6A) for a while, but that approach isn't practical this time.

It got this way by sitting unused for an extended period of time. It was OK, did start a car before being left in the garage...

Can't afford a new on at the moment!

Edited by gjm

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As a rule, once they get below 1.5V per cell (there are 6 cells), they will never recover, even .  Though they will hold charge, they won’t have any amps and any draw will drop the volts, below 1V per cell is proper f**ked.  There is a machine that can shock charge them to try dislodge the calcification, but it’s hit and miss.  I’ll spare you the chemistry lesson.

I get trade at YHI, but not sure if I can get you one near you and freight would be a bitch.

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4 hours ago, EUROLESS said:

As a rule, once they get below 1.5V per cell (there are 6 cells), they will never recover, even .  Though they will hold charge, they won’t have any amps and any draw will drop the volts, below 1V per cell is proper f**ked.  There is a machine that can shock charge them to try dislodge the calcification, but it’s hit and miss.  I’ll spare you the chemistry lesson.

I get trade at YHI, but not sure if I can get you one near you and freight would be a bitch.

I thought that might be the case, but it was worth asking. I've typically worked on the theory that anything under 10V is done.

Edited by gjm

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OK - next question.

While the battery is out of the car, reducing the likelihood of an airbag going off, I've been investigating the lack of ability to open the passenger door from the outside. (It works fine from inside the car.)

Please see here: 

Any thoughts on the simplest way to resolve this?

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