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Yeah its a gamble isnt it, you don't know what its really like to open it up to see what really required, i don't know how good the sprockets hold up either if its been left too long.

If it was picked up quickly enough id think you'd likely get away with just the guides seals, tensioner kit and not have to worry about chain removal. That would simplify things in regards to tools and time needed. 

 

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26 minutes ago, Eagle said:

If it was picked up quickly enough id think you'd likely get away with just the guides seals, tensioner kit and not have to worry about chain removal. That would simplify things in regards to tools and time needed. 

That's probably a best-case scenario. And if the owner has any mechanical sympathy, would be quite likely. If I hear noises like that, I stop driving! Not everyone is the same, though...

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9 hours ago, gjm said:

That's probably a best-case scenario. And if the owner has any mechanical sympathy, would be quite likely. If I hear noises like that, I stop driving! Not everyone is the same, though...

I have seen the same 4.4 X5 in Rotorua and then Tauranga over the last two days driving about with smoke billowing out from underneath, driver apparently oblivious. Hilarious!

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And tips on inserting the splined shaft on a steering rack into the coupler?

'96 328 - old rack came out with a bit, but not too much, effort, can't get the new one in even a few mm (needs to go in about 12mm). Coupling bolt is entirely removed so no obstruction from that.

I've spread the coupling a bit by hammering a wedge into the gap, added grease to the shaft and coupling, made sure they're lined up true etc, etc. No joy.

Both the coupling and rack are ~20 years old so for sure the splines aren't perfect but that's what I've got to work with.

Any tips or something obvious I'm missing? Do I just have to jam the coupling open more? PITA on your back when it's 26 degrees out...

 

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Make sure you have it dialed in . Other wise you'll be needing a new clock spring

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Yes, steering wheel should not have been turned while rack was out. Is your front jacked up (i.e. both your front wheels off the ground) or did you use ramps?

Just make sure you clean all parts thoroughly. If you get the right angle it slips on like butter. Don’t force it. 

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21 minutes ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

Make sure you have it dialed in . Other wise you'll be needing a new clock spring

Thanks for the heads-up, but not sure what you mean... do you mean that if I don't have the rack, column and steering wheel lined up properly I'll tear the clock spring?

If not, could you elaborate.

14 minutes ago, C-130 Hercules said:

Yes, steering wheel should not have been turned while rack was out. Is your front jacked up (i.e. both your front wheels off the ground) or did you use ramps?

Just make sure you clean all parts thoroughly. If you get the right angle it slips on like butter. Don’t force it. 

Jack stands and wheels off. Steering wheel is locked on centre (although it was moved with rack off) and coupling is aligned as it was before I removed the old rack. I can't be sure the rack is perfectly centred but it looks 'about even' left to right.

Now, are the shaft and coupling keyed? i.e. do I need to rotate everything until I find a/the mating point?

Responses are much appreciated, thanks.

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If you have the rack out and spin the steering wheel past its normal 2-3 turn range it will stuff your clock spring. 

These pix might assist. One from Bentley manual. Other is my old rack  there is a mark on the plastic sleeve which should line up with metal ridge on rack body and the split seam on the universal joint.

Do you use new or refurb rack

FF88D2F8-0A76-4A90-9B4C-AEBE894ED584.jpeg

61D5ACEB-E17F-4C82-AB83-D0667108549C.png

Edited by C-130 Hercules
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Also if you put it back together without the clock spring and steering rack both centered. the next time you turn full lock it will ruin your clock spring!

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Thanks guys... clock spring should be okay as the steering wheel is locked on centre...

Rack going in is out of my M3, can't tell if it was centered when removed and it didn't have the dust cap - I'm guessing centre based on looks, will have to adjust once installed - I can remove and re-centre the steering wheel if required. Dust cap from old rack has been transferred across but is no longer a suitable reference.

I'm pretty sure if I can get it in I can get it straight... just getting it in. Will be trying again this afternoon.

Why all this? Old rack was leaking, the one going in is identical.

 

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6 hours ago, M3AN said:

Why all this? Old rack was leaking, the one going in is identical.

I bet it made a racket too! 

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1 hour ago, C-130 Hercules said:

I bet it made a racket too! 

It was a slow leak but yep, once it got low if made funky sounds.

Got the rack back in... wouldn't say it slid right in but a little bit of 'encouragement' sorted it... about 1.6 turns from centre to lock on each side so I think it's close enough to correct. Tie rods and temp alignment with a measuring tape and string tomorrow before a trip to a proper shop next week... assuming no leaks!

Thanks to @B.M.W Ltd, @C-130 Hercules and @aja540i for chiming in so quickly with your helpful advice! :)

 

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Question: Are the water pump, thermostat and radiator common across M52bxx motors? Quick answer before I try and decode Realoem/bmwetk. Finally thinking about my touring.

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7 minutes ago, Palazzo said:

Question: Are the water pump, thermostat and radiator common across M52bxx motors? Quick answer before I try and decode Realoem/bmwetk. Finally thinking about my touring.

There are variations... especially the radiators 

 

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Currently in process of replacing my radiator in my 1983 323i E30 (it was leaking) - pulled all the hoses off (none of which were leaking) but there is a lot of brown residue in them.

Can I safely clean them?

If not, any suggestions on where to buy replacement? Would prefer silicone if I replace them all - but they're about $300-400 delivered from the states (no where local has early e30 radiator hoses)

Edited by Jonesee
Wrong year

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1938 323's are very rare, best you look after it well. ?

Yes, you can clean the existing hoses no problems. Any detergent will be fine, just make sure you flush them clean and let them dry really well.

Silicon hoses can be found here: https://roosemotorsport.co.uk/silicone-hose-kits/bmw-silicone-hose-kits/e30-hose-kits.html

And also other places, I'm sure Samco will do them but if you can afford them you can't go wrong with the Roose ones, they're exceptional quality. Having said that, as you've noticed the stock rubber ones are pretty durable, given the cost of silicon for really, very little benefit, I'd take a lot of convincing. 

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1 hour ago, Jonesee said:

Currently in process of replacing my radiator in my 1938 323i E30 (it was leaking) - pulled all the hoses off (none of which were leaking) but there is a lot of brown residue in them.

Can I safely clean them?

If not, any suggestions on where to buy replacement? Would prefer silicone if I replace them all - but they're about $300-400 delivered from the states (no where local has early e30 radiator hoses)

Allports supply Samco kit.

Bindons list M20B23 hoses.

If you can ship your old hoses (assuming they do need replacing) somewhere like Pro Wholesale could probably match your hoses from their stock.

 

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8 hours ago, M3AN said:

1938 323's are very rare, best you look after it well. ?

Yes, you can clean the existing hoses no problems. Any detergent will be fine, just make sure you flush them clean and let them dry really well.

Silicon hoses can be found here: https://roosemotorsport.co.uk/silicone-hose-kits/bmw-silicone-hose-kits/e30-hose-kits.html

And also other places, I'm sure Samco will do them but if you can afford them you can't go wrong with the Roose ones, they're exceptional quality. Having said that, as you've noticed the stock rubber ones are pretty durable, given the cost of silicon for really, very little benefit, I'd take a lot of convincing. 

Haha yes true... sorry typo! 

Thanks for info - think I'll give them a good clean, might as well try! They arent cracked or corroded from what I can see (but will have a very close look after cleaning) 

Had a look on Roose and they only have later model e30 hoses. The only place I've found early e30 one was Ireland Engineering.

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Where do I go to find bump stops for the 330s front shocks on a Saturday in Auckland... or am I dreaming? :D

p/n 31-30-2-405-872

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I'd call City BMW and ask them, if they have them in stock you can pick them up before 13h.

Need them for a warrant? Cut up a pool noodle and bang it on temporarily... 

 

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7 minutes ago, M3AN said:

I'd call City BMW and ask them, if they have them in stock you can pick them up before 13h.

Need them for a warrant? Cut up a pool noodle and bang it on temporarily... 

 

Awesome, wasnt sure if they were open on Saturday.. Its got a brand new VTNZ wof with no comments left.. its also got 2 dead and leaking shocks and the front bump stops are in bits :D (the last bilsteins I bought included new bump stops, these didnt, serve me right for opening the box on Friday night) 

Edited by Jacko

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Base spec E46 from 2001 (it has a cassette deck, not even a CD43!) Build sheet does say it has 'preparation for CD changer', or similar.

Would the wiring for the multifunction steering wheel be present, even though the steering wheel is one without buttons?
Or was the extra wiring installed only with the multifunction steering wheel?

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Wiring for the multi-function wheel will not be there.  I had to add the wire to the DME when fitting a cruise control stalk to a 2000 E46 base model.

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4 minutes ago, NZ00Z3 said:

Wiring for the multi-function wheel will not be there.  I had to add the wire to the DME when fitting a cruise control stalk to a 2000 E46 base model.

Thanks. Perhaps a touch disappointing, but understandable.
Just considering options for the bluetooth install on Miss M's car. The solution Kyu linked to does include a remote, but I'm trying to discourage moving hands from the steering wheel.

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You can buy the wiring kit to add multifunction wheel onto the vehicle for e46.  I have part number in a spreadsheet, let me know if you need it.  Last time I looked it was under USD30.

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