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29 minutes ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

I've never seen one with the cap part missing 

Hopefully this shows the problem. 

20181111_113440.thumb.png.4d27054f4c572a08e3606d55f0b6de50.png

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As Glenn said you'd have to drill it and insert something. Id cut a slot all the way through then put piece of flat steel in the slot and turn it but much depends on what gear you have and how hard the cap was wound on 

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1 hour ago, Eagle said:

As Glenn said you'd have to drill it and insert something. Id cut a slot all the way through then put piece of flat steel in the slot and turn it but much depends on what gear you have and how hard the cap was wound on 

The cap unscrews without any problem - it's what is normally in the cap (and seals in the reservoir neck) which is pulling free.

My biggest concern is damaging the reservoir.

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Anyone ever replaced the bush on an E8/9x blower motor?

Ive lubed mine previously using a light machine oil, and it solved it for 6 months, now its squeeking again. Spending $200 on a new assembly seems crazy when its just the bush 😕 

Tempted to try pull it out and replace it with a bearing. 

 

Edited by Jacko

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1 hour ago, gjm said:

The cap unscrews without any problem - it's what is normally in the cap (and seals in the reservoir neck) which is pulling free.

My biggest concern is damaging the reservoir.

I had one break but it left enough to get some polygrips onto it. You could drive two screws into it and then lay a screwdriver between them to wind it out.

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Did I accidentally buy the first e46 330 convertible?

WBABS52010EH85001, manufactured 02/02/2000, has the following options

S916A Dummy-SALAPA (development vehicle?)
S925A Dummy-SALAPA
S991A Pre-production management

 

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1 hour ago, eliongater said:

Did I accidentally buy the first e46 330 convertible?

WBABS52010EH85001, manufactured 02/02/2000, has the following options

S916A Dummy-SALAPA (development vehicle?)
S925A Dummy-SALAPA
S991A Pre-production management

 

maybe a nz display car 

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I've got a 3.0 L Z3 with both 916 development vehicle and 991 pre series management in the VIN decode. Anyone know what these codes mean?

 

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E46 msport steering wheel airbag emblem, mines been removed (perhaps by a knife!?). The airbag's been replaced under the recall according to BMW. Is my best bet to find a replacement emblem and stick it on (not sure how that works if it goes off) or find a replacement airbag?

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7 hours ago, eliongater said:

E46 msport steering wheel airbag emblem, mines been removed (perhaps by a knife!?). The airbag's been replaced under the recall according to BMW. Is my best bet to find a replacement emblem and stick it on (not sure how that works if it goes off) or find a replacement airbag?

So the emblem was removed after the airbag way recently replaced?

Either way, it's a $5 v's $100's proposition and on that basis alone I'd replace the emblem only, your airbag is practically brand new. I suspect the whole front flap folds up upon inflation (needs to be confirmed) and in that case replacing the aluminium emblem is simple, just get one from ebay.

 

Edited by M3AN
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On 12/3/2018 at 2:40 PM, eliongater said:

E46 msport steering wheel airbag emblem, mines been removed (perhaps by a knife!?). The airbag's been replaced under the recall according to BMW. Is my best bet to find a replacement emblem and stick it on (not sure how that works if it goes off) or find a replacement airbag?

Emblem comes with the airbagand can't buy new individually so best bet to find one 2nd hand or aftermarket 

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a Friend's E87 116i couldn't start and was diagnosed as having some computer issues.  after getting that fixed for 2.1k, it still couldn't start, and as such, the company Auckland Mobile Mechanics suggested t hat they should replace the engine for 4.5k. I can't help but feel they are being taken for a ride. invoice as below. I wonder if we can pull the car out? and who are the best guys to go to? Capxccture.thumb.PNG.7b04ef0a73d58c7c2f08d68fc983e981.PNG

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8 hours ago, lord_jagganath said:

a Friend's E87 116i couldn't start and was diagnosed as having some computer issues.  after getting that fixed for 2.1k, it still couldn't start, and as such, the company Auckland Mobile Mechanics suggested t hat they should replace the engine for 4.5k. I can't help but feel they are being taken for a ride. invoice as below. I wonder if we can pull the car out? and who are the best guys to go to? Capxccture.thumb.PNG.7b04ef0a73d58c7c2f08d68fc983e981.PNG

Sounds like fitters rather than mechanics. You don't replace an engine just because it doesn't start!
Get it out of there and take it to a BMW specialist. Which one may be dictated a little by current location (and a shame that Glenn has closed up shop) but there are good people around.

 

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Get the vehicle to BMWorkshop Grey Lynn or Botany in the new year. They are closed for the holiday period now

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sh*t yeah, sounds like someone hasnt scanned/diagnosed the car properly, and actually gotten to the root cause. Thats a lot of money they have just burned for probably no reason.

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E36 spinning ignition barrel issue. Mine seems to do it some times, and the  key just free spins. You wiggle it a bit and eventually it works and keeps working ok for a bit. I have googled and some people say there is a pin that just needs to be aligned, but has anyone here fixed this before and was it that simple or should i just replace the barrel?

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Just drill and grub screw it in place, have done a few with no issues 

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32 minutes ago, dirtydoogle said:

Just drill and grub screw it in place, have done a few with no issues 

Like this thread? just a screw through the housing?

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1518698-Spinning-ignition-lock-cylinder-tumbler-fix-WITHOUT-having-to-buy-any-new-parts

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Replacing a water pump...

Recommendation for the o-ring seal is to lubricate with white lithium grease to assist sealing and assembly.

I thought I had some... But no.

Could I (sparingly) use red rubber grease instead?

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Yes you can Graham. But if there are signs of corrosion inside the housing I would use loctite master gasket

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4 minutes ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

Yes you can Graham. But if there are signs of corrosion inside the housing I would use loctite master gasket

Thanks Glenn.
Clean as a whistle in the seal land. Quite remarkable actually, as the pump has obviously been leaking, or has leaked, for a while. Car was parked up for months and while the 'top' of the pulley shaft is beautiful, the lower 2/3 has surface rust.

I'll sparingly apply red rubber grease. It's to lubricate and seal - I thought a water-resistant non-setting grease would be good. Thought about vaseline, but there's much less heat resistance there.

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