E30stz

Quick Questions

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What are these worth?

[All used e30 parts]

325i sway bar

oil sump

black leather interior complete good knick

front fenders, bonnet, valance f/l standard, a white

after-market lowering springs, light blue [very low]

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I only just found this out myself: The vents on the rear parcel tray allow airflow from the cabin into the boot. Air then escapes the car through the rubber flap-type vents in the rear quarter panels. This setup allows smooth airflow from the front cabin vents out the rear of the car. Smoothing over the parcel tray vents will hamper your cars ability to dirculate air, but that is all. May mean your heater/cooling is less effective, but I'm not sure.

Springs -$100-150

Fenders - $25-30 depending on condition

Leather - let the market deicde. I ahve seen them go for $600-1000

Sump - $30-50

These prices are based on what I have paid for those things in the past. Prices fluctuate. Lately prices for parts have been dropping as so many people jump on the e30-wrecking bandwagon. there used to be only 3 main e30 wreckers in AKL on TM and they hiked up prices. Now there are plenty (although be aware, most have multiple TM usernames). I have got a mint door complete with windows, motors etc for $5, and then been unable to find one a week later for less than $70. But those prices will give you an idea of where to start.

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1988 E30 318i 4 door. Cant find any bolts or releases to remove the top half of the rear seat? Anyone know how it unbolts?

Cheers

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Bottom corners on each side is a wire which cmes down and has a bolt thru it. Undo these and lift and the seat comes out.

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Bottom corners on each side is a wire which cmes down and has a bolt thru it. Undo these and lift and the seat comes out.

Thanks mate will have a look

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What needs to be undone to ONLY remove the oil sump from a m20, e30 1990 4dr manual?

Any tools required other than spanners/sockets?

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What needs to be undone to ONLY remove the oil sump from a m20, e30 1990 4dr manual?

Any tools required other than spanners/sockets?

not really. you might have a few torx head bolts on the ali brace you have to remove from the underside of the bellhousing. rest is reasonably straightfoward.

you will have to support the engine from the top and lower or remove the crossmember too. the oil pickup won't allow you to remove the sump without getting the crossmember clear.

Will

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not really. you might have a few torx head bolts on the ali brace you have to remove from the underside of the bellhousing. rest is reasonably straightfoward.

you will have to support the engine from the top and lower or remove the crossmember too. the oil pickup won't allow you to remove the sump without getting the crossmember clear.

Will

Argh? Its off my parts car, which obviously, is in parts. The engine had a blown head, so the previous owner took the engine apart and its in bits, manifold and cylinders all thats left. Do I still have to lift that up, or can I just remove other bits and bobs to get to it as I don't have a crane or any type of pulley that can hold the engine up...

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you will have to support the motor to remove/lower the crossmember.

use a rope around the front crank pulley and put a plank/steel bar/whatever across the tops of the fenders and wind the rope several times round it and the pulley, then insert a short bar through the rope and wind it by twisting the rope up and secure the bar to hold the rope tight. this should support the engine enough to remove or drop the crossmember. put some padding under the plank across the fenders if you want to protect them

do you follow what I am trying to describe?

Will

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Hrm, well I know what you mean. Didn't even cross my mind. Will need a hand for that though I guess? Will wait for the old man to get home, he can do all the hard work hah.

But so, in short, lift the engine high enough to drop the whole cross member, which should be enough to get the remaining 24 bolts out of the sump?

And here I was removing some out of the converter etc :X

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you don't need to lift it up, just support it as the engine mounts are on the crossmember, so will drop when you lower the crossmember unless you hold it up.

Will

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You don't need to remove the crossmemeber. I replaced my sump by lifting the engine - didn't remove any coolant piping or anything - may need to loosen clips of fan shroud so it doesn't foul, but if you can - make a support structure above the car (two stands and a couple of planks), then with a bit of wood on a jack, jack the motor up on the sump with the motor mounts undone, then tie a chain or rope to hold the engine up - tighten either using a bar and twist, or if you have some tensioners or anything that will work (Look around your workshop).

Then release the jack - you can slide the sump out without removing the crossmember.

Either way works - it depends on what you want to do.

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Graham is right in this case, with the head off, you should be able to lift the block high enough to get the sump clear of the crossmember.

I have always struggled to lift the complete motor high enough as the head normally hits the firewall before there is really enough room to get the sump free, so have resorted to getting the crossmember clear to get the sump out.

Will

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Done it with the head on no probs - but maybe I just have a little bit of hoeden?(sp?)

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just a double check; a M20b20 gearbox will bolt straight to M20b25?

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How do you all make sure you have the right lowering springs for your cars? I dont want to go below 100mm so do i measure the lowest structural point on my car and then whatever the difference is between that value and 100mm is the springs i should get? ETC say the lowest structural point is 155mm then i should get 50mm lowering springs correct?

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just a double check; a M20b20 gearbox will bolt straight to M20b25?

Yup - they are the same.

If the m20b25 car is already a manual, and the m20b20 box is a getrag 240 you will need the driveshaft and selector linkage from the m20b20 car as the gearboxes are slightly different lengths. The bellhousing bolts, clutch, flywheel etc are the same.

Also, pre-f/l box will go on f/l car fine. f/l box may not work on pre-f/l motronic as there are additional sensors for the earlier motronic that screw into the gearbox.

Edited by bravo

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How do you all make sure you have the right lowering springs for your cars? I dont want to go below 100mm so do i measure the lowest structural point on my car and then whatever the difference is between that value and 100mm is the springs i should get? ETC say the lowest structural point is 155mm then i should get 50mm lowering springs correct?

Chassis, steering or suspension component - often the front control arm bush housing is the lowest point at the front.

What you suggest would be one way to work it, but it's not exact. There are 3 or four different thickness spring seat pads standard on e30's - if you are too low, get one o the thicker pads.

A 50-55mm drop will have you pretty much on the 100mm limit generally depending on how much weight you cart about in terms of sounds, how flat your tyres are etc.

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Chassis, steering or suspension component - often the front control arm bush housing is the lowest point at the front.

What you suggest would be one way to work it, but it's not exact. There are 3 or four different thickness spring seat pads standard on e30's - if you are too low, get one o the thicker pads.

A 50-55mm drop will have you pretty much on the 100mm limit generally depending on how much weight you cart about in terms of sounds, how flat your tyres are etc.

Oh ok I supose I should also to that the rear of my car us lower than the front maybe because it has 320i Springs in it for some apparant reason? So these seat pads sit between the bottom of the spring and the shock? Thanks bravo will look well into before i purchase anything, Cheers

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The pads are top and bottom of the spring on both front and rear.

The LVV rules don't let you put aftermarket pads in to make springs captive, but OEM ones are fine. You could get some aftermarket ones made as long as they look OEM.

If you are paying a pro to do it, maybe tell them you want to go as low as possible without needing a cert and leave it up to them.

The rear of an e30 (esp f/l) looks lower than front when the car has been significantly lowered, but it is the suspension compnents at the front of the car that are usually the lowest points to the ground.

My car is just legal on about 50-55mm drop.

Edited by bravo

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Does pre f/l interior (seats, door cards, etc) fit in a f/l?

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The pads are top and bottom of the spring on both front and rear.

The LVV rules don't let you put aftermarket pads in to make springs captive, but OEM ones are fine. You could get some aftermarket ones made as long as they look OEM.

If you are paying a pro to do it, maybe tell them you want to go as low as possible without needing a cert and leave it up to them.

The rear of an e30 (esp f/l) looks lower than front when the car has been significantly lowered, but it is the suspension compnents at the front of the car that are usually the lowest points to the ground.

My car is just legal on about 50-55mm drop.

Hmm i just measured where the guard would sit, the springs ive been quoted for are 40mm lower. The back will sit nicely at the top of the tyre, the front however is still gonna look rude! What springs are you using/how much/where from? Also can i take the pads out legally to get her down to 100mm or thereabouts?

Cheers

Edited by Boost Junky

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40mm drop is a little bit high for my tastes.

F/l rear guard is lower than pre f/l so the rear may be happy at 40mm then drop the front 50mm and get some badass forward rake (not entirely legal as you are not allowed to SIGNIFICANTLY alter the relationship of front to rear height, but 10mm prob sweet).

You should leave the pads in, as they stop the springs sliding about, but it is possible to leave them out - I wouldn't.

Go for Andrews Jamex supa lows - progressive rate spring and legal ride height. It doesn't matter that they are off a 4-cyl. Front struts are diff diameter, but no diff as to springs.

You will end up with a legal height, a good spring at a good price.

Or I have some low king springs if you want - not much of a drop though - sounds like you want a bit more.

I have some unkown brand non-progressive spring - Dark blue in colour. No markings. They are fine, and right on the limit, yet somehow still captive. No idea what they are though.

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Yea me to but thats all that my mates garage can get in at $300+GST For all four corners haha. I work at SuperCheap and can get a set of four King Springs from our supplier for $300 landed. The supplier in Welly said that will be the lowest i could go legally but i dunno how trusty that is. Badass forward rake lol? What is progressive rate?

Oh I thought maybe the the front springs in my E30 might have been from a 6cyl E30 put into my 4cyl E30 and maybe it sits higher because they are 6cyl springs which maybe stiffer to compensate for the heavier 6cyl motor?

How much for the unmarked brand dude? I'd be keen is that front and back?

Cheers again man, Luke

Edited by Boost Junky

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