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Out of interest had a look in parts cat at a 328 99 sedan and a 325 04 sedan and they have the same part numbers for the plastic cover plate 51168238375 so if a standard sedan would say yes they are the same. They do have a few difference if fitted with heated glass, plan or tinted glass, fold in type and memory seats  etc in the wiring set up

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6 hours ago, Olaf said:

at least two different versions for the wiring, according to the panel beater who replaced mine when they were stolen.  uncertain if there's a diff between pre facelift and LCI versions.

 

Yea, wiring is not a problem - its the cosmetics of the housing I'm worried about.

I don't want two different styled mirrors on the same car.

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5 hours ago, allan said:

Out of interest had a look in parts cat at a 328 99 sedan and a 325 04 sedan and they have the same part numbers for the plastic cover plate 51168238375 so if a standard sedan would say yes they are the same. They do have a few difference if fitted with heated glass, plan or tinted glass, fold in type and memory seats  etc in the wiring set up

Thanks, yea I had a check on realoem too.

I wonder if the msport mirrors are the same as standard.

 

Edited to add that it appears that the coupe mirrors are different to sedan/wagon.

Edited by zero

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The Cabrio has a different part number also. The shape of the mounting triangle is different from a sedan compact coupe etc i believe. The m3 seems to have the more rounded one like after market m sport one's I've seen. Were as the standard one is rectangular shaped and buckle looking.

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1 hour ago, zero said:

I don't want two different styled mirrors on the same car.

:huh:

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Given the ABS and traction control lights are illuminated, is it more likely that the issue is with an ABS sensor on the rear (driven) axle?

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Remove and check have seen these covered with metal like filings stuck to them

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Hi team, new here but searched first so apologies if I missed a previous answer to this question.

1987 E30 325i, is the dash cluster dimable? Mine doesn't seem to light up at all so I'm guessing it's blown bulb(s) but thought I'd run it past the guru's first. Thanks in advance.

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Hey @obi_wan Thanks for searching first, it's actually pretty tricky to search on this forum given the search engine ignores anything with three characters or less (you know, like basically every model and chassis number).   If it's dimable, you'll have a wheel below and probably to the right of your steering wheel if memory serves, it'll look like this

s-l1600_70_.thumb.jpg.95adb683d65636c7e8fb4795ed2c5478.jpg

The bulbs are meant to last forever, and are specific to BMW, you'll need to go to a proper BMW parts dealer to get them, or order online, mostly smaller lamps but a couple of bigger ones too in the centre, it's usually the bigger ones that blow.

Replacing is pretty straightforwards, and if your miles are getting on, and it hasn't been done yet, not a silly time to look at replacing the odometer gears while it's out.

 

Edited by EUROLESS
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Hi @EUROLESS, wow thanks for that, hugely helpful. I had a decent look for a dimmer switch in that area so it sounds like the bulbs are toast. I'll take you up on the odometer gears advice and get those sorted at the same time. Really appreciate you help.

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@obi_wan The only bitchy thing about the odo gears is there are a few types, and the only way to know the type you need is to remove it, because i didn't want to put it out and in more than i needed, or spend two weeks without my E30, I just bought both KM sets, the vendor was happy for me to return the set i didn't need for a refund.

I got mine here

If you're electrically apt, I'd recommend re-flowing any solders that look shady while you have it apart also, stitch in time and all that jazz.

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Thanks again, I'll get some on order. I wouldn't call myself a master soldererer but I'll give it a go and report back once I've solidly balls'd it up. Thanks again for your input, glad I joined this forum :-)

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Generally everyone super nice unless you break the three golden rules;

  1. Try avoid digging up ancient threads unless neccesary
  2. Try search first
  3. Don't refer to SMG as Manual ;)

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Before you get too deep, try rotating the headlight switch.

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@OP6 never would have thought of that, thanks for the suggestion, I’ll give it a go before I get the mallet and grinder out haha

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Car battery...

A couple of times recently Miss M's car hasn't started. Click... Nothing. Flat battery.

No worries - charge it up and off we go. It's only a problem if left for a few days. I'll look at possible causes of drain over Christmas.

Yesterday, while doing some work on another car, I put the Miss-M-mobile battery on charge. 3-4A for most of the day.

And... This morning it was a no-go situation. Click - nothing. The little inspection window on top of the battery is showing black, suggesting it needs charging.

I suspect it's a dead 'un, but before I splash out (let's face it -students don't have money for car batteries) I thought I'd check the wisdom hereabaouts.

Green is good, black is charge, and white is replace. Are we just a step away from seeing the white? Or is the discharge I'd expected to investigate enough to kill the battery overnight?

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Feel you need to find out is it the battery or do you have a current draw from some thing coursing the flat battery.

.When you charged the battery do you load test it to see if it holds a charge and comes back  before refitting it in the car.  As you say green generally means all good black could mean flat need a charge or stuffed new battery.required bugger.

By chance does it have a label  on it or letters stamped on the terminals might help find out how old it is. Best of luck getting it sorted can be a right PITA at this time of year.

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29 minutes ago, allan said:

Feel you need to find out is it the battery or do you have a current draw from some thing coursing the flat battery.

.When you charged the battery do you load test it to see if it holds a charge and comes back  before refitting it in the car.  As you say green generally means all good black could mean flat need a charge or stuffed new battery.required bugger.

By chance does it have a label  on it or letters stamped on the terminals might help find out how old it is. Best of luck getting it sorted can be a right PITA at this time of year.

I've taken the battery off the car to charge overnight - I'll do some more checks tomorrow.

This one suggests three colours - green, black and white. White is "replace me!"

There is an 'installed on' label, but none of the dates have been selected. It's not original, but could easily have been on the car for some time.

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2 hours ago, allan said:

Feel you need to find out is it the battery or do you have a current draw from some thing coursing the flat battery.

.When you charged the battery do you load test it to see if it holds a charge and comes back  before refitting it in the car.  As you say green generally means all good black could mean flat need a charge or stuffed new battery.required bugger.

By chance does it have a label  on it or letters stamped on the terminals might help find out how old it is. Best of luck getting it sorted can be a right PITA at this time of year.

 

1 hour ago, gjm said:

I've taken the battery off the car to charge overnight - I'll do some more checks tomorrow.

This one suggests three colours - green, black and white. White is "replace me!"

There is an 'installed on' label, but none of the dates have been selected. It's not original, but could easily have been on the car for some time.

I was basing my 'dead battery' theory on what appears to be an accelerated rate of battery discharge.

Just to check, I removed the battery from the car, left it in the sun for several hours to remove any surface charge, then put it on charge. Less than an hour later, the charger suggests 'charge complete'. :huh: This after the battery wouldn't turn the engine over earlier today - solenoid click, dimming of instrument lights, nothing more.

For reference, I've checked for:

  • Broken terminal
  • Bulge or bump in the case
  • Crack, rupture or other damage to the plastic
  • Leaking
  • Discoloration

All negative.

I'll low-rate charge the battery for a while, leave it to stand, then get Miss M to help do a load test. (She can turn the key - I'll watch the multimeter!)

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12 minutes ago, Gabe79 said:

Hey Graham, this is from  r/MechanicAdvice and has helped me in the past finding parasidic draws and weird battery issues.

voltage drop testing in six easy steps

The imgur link is interesting. "Now. start the engine." Well, that'd be nice! ;)  Actually (and while I haven't tried today) the car will start when the battery has just been charged, and the other measurements could be very useful.

It's an odd situation. I've had batteries die before, but not quite like this.

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Replacing transmission fluid on my 530i. I read all kinds of recommendations for the US, but what is good to use here? I'm a fan of SCA.

 

Is this good enough? Castrol Auto Transmission Fluid - Dex III

 

http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product/Castrol-Auto-Transmission-Fluid-Dex-III-4-Litre/309868

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Oh well... An unloaded and disconnected 10.65V across the posts, hours after showing full charge, tells us everything we need to know.

Anyone got a cheap, working battery available?

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