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e30 s50b32 turbo project.

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Sounds and looks pretty mean,those gaurds look tough as too.

And with colour,silver looks mean,but matt black would be better haha

Goin to be helpful aye

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can't wait to see this take shape.

Why you sticking with M20?

surely you would get better results with an M50 or something like that?

just curious

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this is going to be wicked.

what sort of time frame are you working to?

When we get back from the taupo trip we will get into it ... hoping for end of summer .. we will see ..

can't wait to see this take shape.

Why you sticking with M20?

surely you would get better results with an M50 or something like that?

just curious

goal is to see if we can roll along the lines of this guy ;)

(600 hp m20)

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5...amp;q=e30+turbo

Listen to that and tell me that a raped FI m20 doesnt sound the best thing ever :) I fell in love

update:

have been talking with ernst at baverian .. him and his swiss friend who worked on the m3 touring cars back in the day are going to be looking into the engine plan.

Goal is a tits m20 turbo, they are a solid proven engine that is realitivly cheap to build to race engine strength... but remember nothing is 100% in this project as we are trying things that haven't been done around these parts for some time ... so things are subject to change including engine. we have thought about the following

e46 CSL s54 engine turboed

s52 Evo m3 turboed

m50 turboed

m20 turboed

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"Hmmm will keep the ribs polished (not silver) and we will paint the viens (coring) black. The problem with painting the cooler black is you start to get too much black on the car, and you start to screw the lines and over all look of the car. Alot of people make basic design / form following function mistakes when designing their cars. Colours and how much colour to display is all key to the 'look' of a vehicle.

something I took into careful consideration when designing up the e46 sedan to m3 kit conversion"

Hybrid I appreciate your attention to detail. I must confess I thought it was just going to be an all polished intercooler. Upon a closer look with the cores black it looks great. Nice subtle effect.

Not too sure that you can ever have too much black on a car...subjective anyway and it is your car and your look!!!!

I can't wait to see the progress.

Edited by bezzal

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might going m50 at this point will let yall know :)

Hahaha yeah bro go M50 :ph34r: I'm speaking from experience.... Thought about sticking with the m20 but I picked my non vano's m50 up for around $1000 with everything and it's cost me about another $2300 and some of my time to get it in. Plus with the strong rod's in the non vanos m50 I can think about forced induction plans once petrol is cheaper.

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Nice :) yeah talking with conrod and andy last night .. it just seems to be a bit more of a ready made engine.We will forge the crank, forge the rods and do custom forge pistons, bolts .. possible o-ringing etc etc .. the m50 head seems to be better for handling FI.

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that tusbo in that movie is i think holset hx50

i see you got bodykit and wheels sorted out, what about engine internals to support that horsepower ?

what headgasket ?

what headbolts ?

I'm building m20 turbo aswell but aiming for streetable ~ 300whp wide powerband....

power can be made with appropriately sized turbo, but as always alot oh hp means poor bottom/midrange....

for strong engine i'd recommend 89.6mm crank (s52 m3 engine) with 85 or 86 mm overbore and custom forged pistons and rods.

HX50 will deliver your target hp but fail on the bottom end....

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hey ya,

The m20 was going to require some pretty skillful work to get the head strong enough to handle the FI power.. (welded water channels and a lot of work / money to get the head flowing enough for the power ... stared to turn into more a pain in the ass than what was worth it ...

The m50 will handle 600rwhp with just forging / head bolts and minimal head work alone. (double valve springs) Being 24 valve it flows a lot better. So we will be going m50 for this. Also as stated before .. we are forging the engine ... most likely using arp bolts, s52 crank, o-ringing, 8.5:1 Custom JE forged pistons etc etc ... the list goes on ... yes we have thought about it .. and talked to some very knowledgeable people in the race industry. International forums have been invaluble on this so far... its help us realise how and what we are aiming for engine wise.

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yep, i arree.. all tho you can buuild m20 and get 600whp out of it, but reliability will be questionable... m50/s50 engine will deliver much more reliability at that HP putput.... still bottom eng will be poor.... oh well...

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600hp in an e30 is mental.

its 'fun' with 170hp in the wet, 300hp would be rediculous, 400hp = crazy. 600hp? Will it even be driveable in anything but bone dry conditions?

I vote m50, and NA.

EJ20 FTW. :)

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600hp in an e30 is mental.

its 'fun' with 170hp in the wet, 300hp would be rediculous, 400hp = crazy. 600hp? Will it even be driveable in anything but bone dry conditions?

I vote m50, and NA.

EJ20 FTW. :)

hehe is that a challenge ?? :D

What I was saying is that a fully forged m50 can handle 600rwhp before you start getting into the hardcore stuff like coating and other heat treatment ... we certainly wont be running this HP in street form. 400rwhp should be fine with the wheel and suspension / break setup we have planned.

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Things are starting to heat up round these parts :)

Will have some updates soon, just securing more parts :) .. but things are a happening

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Aiight,

Thought it was time for an update. As I was saying earlier on, we expected changes on this project, but didnt quite expect the luck we have had.

Brendon and myself have been pouring hours and hours into proper research of this project and come up with many possible combinations to our problems.

#1 on the list was the ever important subframe. Alot of people are happy using 318 e36 parts which is fine to a point. Our problem on this project is we are looking at sticking more than average amounts of power to the rear wheels, upon research there are very little "documented" people putting down over 400rwhp. The people that are are running various custom subframe setups.

So..... We were very lucky to come into M Coupe(Z3 M) rear subframe parts (Trailing arm, Half shaft, M Coupe Diff,Flange, Hub) . While not complete its given us a head start.

We made the choice to go e30 M3 front to complete the 5 lug conversion, We have ended up ording these parts new, as we haven't obviously managed to find someone wrecking a e30 m3 :)

The Drive shaft will likely remain standard at this point, if not we may go for an e36 328i / m3 one

Brakes:

The ever important stoppers, The goal for the brakes was something that would obviously do the business but also were easy enough to replace and cost effective. We have opted for e46 330i brakes and calipers up front and M Coupe rear brakes. The 330i brakes are 325 x 25mm and only a mere 2mm off the e46 m3 brakes, they also have a cross drilled factory option and are relativly cheap to replace. They make the best big brake kit conversion for performace vs cost effectiveness. + I have had frist hand experience of the extreme stopping power of them (ask dirty six :D)

Engine:

We have kept this one quite up until this point until we actually secured it. We ditched the m50 idea after we came into ..... a s50b32 3.2ltr 320bhp M Coupe / m3 evo engine with only 7000km's on the clock. This obviously changed _everything_

The flow rate of turboing one of these engines requires a bigger turbo. We will be running 'around' 18psi which should give us around 600+ bhp. Boost wise the car will be dialed up for drag configuration but calulation wise this is a nice 'safe' boost rating.

We are tossing up between o ringing the engine and / or multi layered metal or copper gaskets.

Piston wise, we are going for a J.E forged low compression / dished setup.

We have the 5 series sump and and the s50 loom and custom pullies.

ECU:

As we are now going with the s50 b32, the link setup wont control the VANOS properly. So we have opted for an Autronic.

Gearbox:

M Coupe 5 speed.

We also purchased the gear box that came with the engine, this was an interesting decsion as we initally we going to go with leaving the standard box in (reconned). Even though there are no stories floating around of ppl blowing boxes. However there aren't that many people running consistantly the HP we are intending, but I would rather be safe than sorry.

Body panel / exterior:

This is a little way off yet but brendon and I seemed to be settled on doing the ole m3 qauter panel conversion. Also will be changing the bumpers front and rear too e30 m3 non evo.

Timeline:

1st off is the subframe parts and 5 lug conversion / brakes. Depending if we get all the parts landed in time we will spend the xmas break converting this over.

2nd: The engine will go into get stripped down and rebuilt.

3rd: engine inserted into the rolling body and exaust manifold is built.

4th: engine run in

5th: body work and panels

6th: interior

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sounds insane, where are you getting all your parts from, if u dont mind saying

and i just have trouble locating medium case lsd....

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sounds insane, where are you getting all your parts from, if u dont mind saying

The suspension parts mostly new from BMW. Second hand stuff from conrad

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Guest Spargo

if running a ZF you'll need an E36 driveshaft. If you use the 260 you'll need an E30 M3 driveshaft.

Why an M3 front subframe? There is no point and doesn't exactly help with your 5 lug plan.

The rear subframe will have to remain stock E30 otherwise your M-coupe trailing arms wont bolt in.

the M-coupe half shafts are solid. E36 M3 ones a hollow and have a bigger diameter - thus they're lighter / stronger and they have enough plunge to work with an E30 subframe setup.

The 260 is a stronger item than the ZF.

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Why an M3 front subframe? There is no point and doesn't exactly help with your 5 lug plan.

The e30 m3 hubs are 5 lug, and to stop the front wheel being set back about 2 inch's or so

The rear subframe will have to remain stock E30 otherwise your M-coupe trailing arms wont bolt in.

keh ? .. Its whats happening. M-Coupe trailing arms into e30 subframe

the M-coupe half shafts are solid. E36 M3 ones a hollow and have a bigger diameter - thus they're lighter / stronger and they have enough plunge to work with an E30 subframe setup.

http://www.bavariacars.com.au/article/?id=37

;

the half shafts arn't the problem ... its the splines / CVs ;)

The 260 is a stronger item than the ZF.

I'm not so sure .. not saying the 260 is crap by any means but just going off what others have done and proved and again check the links above ....

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Why an M3 front subframe? There is no point and doesn't exactly help with your 5 lug plan.

The e30 m3 hubs are 5 lug, and to stop the front wheel being set back about 2 inch's or so

wtf???

The E30 & E30 M3 have similar front end geometry, the control arms are geometrically the same just alloy Vs steel, the lollipops bolt onto the same part of the chassis and in the same location on the front subframe.

The only possible difference in the front subframes would be the engine mount bolt holes at a long shot.

If you are using E30 M3 front hubs there is no need to do anything to the E30, just bolt them in!!!

Oh, and are you still doing this on your "realistic" budget??

Just curious as I'd bet your purchases to date would exceed my total build costs.

But should be one hell of a looker & go'er whe your done.

Edited by E30-323ti

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get a house.

or if you wanna go fast get a bike. 14k and you will win.

im sayin that its your bling and not mine so gogogo! :D haha love it

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Finally got around to posting some pics up of the 5 lug conversion. (phase 1)

As some of you may know brendon and myself play in a band .. and we have been touring all summer so have only just had time to get back onto the car project.

All the parts had arrived from the states etc etc

Here is the new Wilwood SL-6 (6 pot) calipers and rotors,

The Eibach / Koni and ground control setup in full flight.

M-Coupe rear trailing arms / diff

these are my old 330i wheels allowing the car to roll around between workshops in the engine / fabrication and body shop phases. The final wheels will be a custom 18x8.5 front and 18x9.5 et15 setup.

Here are some images. More to come.

post-373-1176102286_thumb.jpg

post-373-1176102293_thumb.jpg

post-373-1176102303_thumb.jpg

post-373-1176102308_thumb.jpg

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