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I wonder if you do go and have a look if you'll drive up the driveway, see the car sitting there all nice and clean and then the owner will open the garage and go "ta-da!" and the second one is sitting there for you. Two 3.0 M3's for $38k seems about right.

A few years back I bought a bunch of genuine BMW GT1 units from a computer recycler overseas. All but one was working and the rest had smashed touch screens. I managed to salvage all but one of them (broken mainboard) and replaced the units with brand new genuine lcd panels and genuine touch screen panels and repair the hard drives. I further sourced genuine Sincon 28V power supplies for these. (Extremely hard to find) I was going to repack the batteries but have never gotten around to it - so the batteries are dead. You therefore have to use the units with the docking station only. The units originally came with genuine v57 DIS discs inside the cd drive and together with a set of genuine v44 coding discs I had I modified it to have both diagnostics v57 (up to around Feb 2008 cars) and v44 coding. (Discs not included with sale). The units will also come with a genuine yellow diagnostic head but replica cables from ebay for that authentic experience (these can be used wirelessly unlike the clone heads) Are these better than your laptop version vmware DIS? Yes and no, but you can’t beat the cool and nostalgic factor of having a genuine BMW diagnostic system. The asking price is therefore a reflection of these being a bit of a collectable so it is not for everyone - so leave comments about the price in your head thanks! I have seen working units of these sell on ebay for over us$2000 but I am asking less of course. Genuine working diagnostic heads alone can go for $1000 or more. So you will get: 1 x Group Tester One with new lcd and touch screen loaded with genuine v57 and with v44 coding capabilities( BMW, mini and RR) 1 x Docking Station 1 x Genuine Yellow diagnostic head 1 x Replica OBD2 and 20 pin round plug cable $1200 firm Keyboard NOT included

BEFORE YOU READ ON: After doing the initial installation of the retrofit the kit I was faced with PDC sound and steering wheel track select issues. No amount of coding would fix it, and Bimmer Retrofit suggested a firmware update to the FeNBT box to address it. The problem may have arisen from the fact that my car has a ZGW2-High from factory, and the FeNBT is not 100% compatible with it. Another strange issue was that the NBT would not save my unit settings, so every time the car booted up it would reset to default, which in my car's case is UK MPG etc. So I did install version two today: * Removed the FeNBT retrofit adapter * Updated SWFL (both) and BTLD of the ZGW2-High with 8SK software. For my ZGW2-High they were btld_000010f5-003_004_090, SWFL_0000092b-005_018_00, SWFL000010f6-003_004_160. The ZGW now shows up as ZGW2 in esys, where before it was just ZGW (despite being a ZGW2-High) * Tapped the CAN2 high and low at the CAS * ZBE3 and Touch ECU are also tapped into CAN2 * Restored original PDC button wiring The retrofit works 100%. Initially the NBT would not display my top view or PDC, but the sounds worked. I resolved this by doing a fresh FA code with my original FA but with the Zeitkriterium updated to 0712. The retrofit is 100% feature complete and I did not have to do any module swaps or modifications other than flashing the ZGW2 with 8SK software. Also, the car's original wiring is 100% intact, except for 2 splice connectors ? FeNBT adapter removed PDC TSRVC original button wiring restored and working PDC TSRVC working 100% Steering wheel list wheel functionality restored The information above is still relevant as a guide if the ZGW2 route is not viable in your case. Steps like the removal of the COMBOX and USB cable routing as well as the disassembly steps are also still required, even with the 8SK method. Also, the standard disclaimer applies. The information below is based on my experience and I give no guarantee that the information is applicable or relevant to any other car configuration. Here we are folks. It's been a wee wait while the kit was assembled but it arrived and was installed in an afternoon (no jokes). It is a challenging retrofit if you have no experience with these things. At the very least you need to be able to read wiring diagrams and also have either the knowledge required to disassemble the interior of your car or know how to sear and read the info on TIS. Others have covered more technical details of the install. My writeup will be step-by-step of what I did. Before starting removed the footwell side carpets, centre console side plastic trim, and trim roof in driver's footwell. Info on how to do this can be found on TIS. This is the kit. It includes MOST cable, USB cable, Adapter, Touch Module, 2x wiring sets for touch and controller, harness, touch controller, APIX cable, Bluetooth Antenna, HU_NBT. Roof down and rear head rests out. These are a royal PITA to remove. I find that grabbing on to them and moving side to side is the easiest way to get them out. Front seats forward as far as they will go. Rear bench out. Again, PITA to get out. Grabbing the outer edges and pulling up is the easiest way to get it out. It takes some effort, but eventually it will budge. Rear backrest is held in place by two bolts, and once removed can be tilted forward. No need to remove the seatbelts. You have more than enough access to the COMBOX. Note the brace. This has to be removed. Said brace removed. Little bolt is example of one of the 4 bolts securing the COMBOX to its frame. COMBOX removed. COMBOX wiring and MOST disconnected. The little blue tab needs to be pushed out in order for the most cables to be removed. COMBOX MOST terminated. At this stage we move to the front. Recline the front seats as far as they can, and move them all they way back. Locate the ZGW underneath the driver's side dashboard. Remove the MOST connecter, and disassemble it in the same manner as the COMBOX MOST. ZGW MOST terminated. Old CID removed. Next remove the backing plate. Basic disassembly done. This is what a 6-series console looks like when it's stripped out like a nuclear winter ? Bind up the old CID Apix and power connectors and secure behind the dashboard. Connect MOST cable supplied with the retrofit kit to the ZGW. Feed MOST through sidewall into cavity behind the HU. Connect MOST to the FeNBT adapter. Remove beige connecter from USB port in armrest storage. Feed new USB cable underneath the console carrier from HU to armrest storage. New USB cable connected. New bluetooth antenna in a neat little wedge between the HU and air vents. NBT hooked up and ready to be tested for the first time. At this stage the old idrive controller (ZBE2) is still connected. It works! USB connection in armrest works. Touch controller (ZBE3) and Touch ECU connected. This was a more technical step as it requires you to wire the ZBE3 and ECU to the CAN-H, CAN-L, Battery and Ground cables. Not that big a deal. I used splice connectors for a super clean install. Touch works. I'm still not convinced about the usefulness of touch input since we drive on the right side of the road, and writing with the left hand is average at best. The trim surround of the ZBE3 has to be removed since the surround from the ZBE2 stays in the centre console, and fits perfectly around the ZBE3. This can be done without destroying the surround. All you need is a small flat head screw driver and some patience. ZBE3 in place and fits perfectly. The instructions call for the PDC Camera buttons to be connected to the FeNBT adapter. Three wires in a 4-pin connector is all it takes. I actually replaced this blue one with a new one which I purchased from BMW, along with new crimp connectors. First drive outside with the roof down. The screen is excellent (remember that this is one I ordered from China...not one that came with the kit). And there you have it. I took the photo of the complete kit on 23 April 2019 at 2:58 PM and the install was done by 5:30pm. As smoothly as the install went, it is not without challenges. Currently my PDC sounds and steering wheel track buttons do not work. Bimmer Retrofit are working with me to resolve the problem. I also cannot connect to the NBT though OBD despite having ZGH High installed. I will update the ZGW tomorrow to see if that solves the problem, or else connect directly to the NBT using an RJ45 cable. Once I can connect to it I can complete the coding and get my cameras back ? To help troubleshoot any potential wiring issues I removed all the unused wires from the harness (more than half of them, in fact). I also initially cut the connector from the 4-pin connected to the PDC button, but have since re-pinned it to a new connector, just in case it ever needs to be reconnected. Overall I am very happy with the kit and the support from Bimmer Retrofit. Beyond the headlights there is no way to tell that my car is Pre-LCI, and even then very few of the LCI models (even those with EVO) have the glass screens. Happy to answer any questions ?

Turns out the amp in the boot is in pieces, I guess that's a job for further down the road...

As a slight sideways step, I am fairly certain an E39 touring has more boot space than an E53 X5.

Actually, just having a think about it. With it being attached to the shock, it will in turn be roughly 40% stiffer based on leverage or lack of! makes sense!

so last wednesday we had the first shakedown in it! all went well, but have a few things to change/work on as to be expected! Locked diff or lsd to come, in order to combat spinning the inside rear when cornering after it becomes un weighted rear wing to go on bigger roll bars (adjustable ones are in the pipeline) brake ducting is all complete! inside is being painted this weekend but for now, few more semi finished pictures, and some teaser pictures of a shifter that is coming to production shortly!

I did check if I could find replacement used ones in better quality and wasnt happy with what sellers were offering, so we decided to make a couple of days out of it and combined skills to refurb what we have. Basically: - No foam/sponge left in originals, no softness in the horsehair molded bases. Cloth itself in pretty good condition. - Forced stripes of cotton wadding inside "piping" on the back piece - Kept the horse hair mold but added middle strips of 35-160U High Density foam and side bolsters of 28-170U Medium density foam - Hand washed rear cloth, did not remove from seat as it was riveted to the frame (and no need). - Machine washed base - Wife sewed in "Interface" material into the base stips to create new "loops" to hold the side-centre-side metal bars in place (original channels disintegrated - Initially used OEM like Bull Ring pliers to reattached metal bars etc but found that large cable ties work a lot better. Used lots of them (13per base, 5 on each side and 3 in the middle). Very happy with result, firm but soft, smells great too thanks to the washing and cloth shampoo!

so, after 6 years of running a pair of e36's out on the speedway we have decided it is time to expand our knowledge and depart the dirt and build a track car. very shortly after this decision, we picked up a very tidy 323 factory motorsport which has had 1 owner for the last 16 years whilst being looked after increadibly well. it appears to have been garaged for nearly all of its life! (insert "its too good for a racecar" comments here ) the car has only done 120*** km and is very very tight in the suspension the interior is nearly immaculate, half leather motorsport the list of ideas for this project get longer and longer every day, but the amount of cool stuff we are doing is also growing rapidly! so far the list consists of: Manual conversion 8 point cage (basic kit arriving this week) e46 330 brake conversion with braided lines force fed brake cooling setup with fog light mounted intake ducts aluminum rear sub frame bushings along with sub frame reinforcement floor mounted sifter with adjustable throw, also dsgg style sifter linkage adjustable front and rear splitters adjustable sway bar linkages with polyurethane bushes have a set of genuine m3 mirrors to go on engine plans we are not 100% sure what we are doing yet, but there is a distinct possability that one of the s50b32 engines will find its way into the engine bay whilst doing the manual conversion this week, if not we will stick with the m52 and go with a forced induction setup Everything that we are making, is being made in a way which is easy to make a few of, so if there is anything that you see and would like a set made, just sing out! there is probably a lot of stuff i have missed off the list!

Gruppe M copy e46 M3 carbon intake system. extremely light weight. Full carbon fibre construction. filter is filthy needs a wash and re oil. Comes with MAF sensor. $700

The master window switch on the driver's side doesn't seem to work, can lower/raise windows on each individual door but nothing seems to be working thru the master controller. Anyone got a good master controller for sale. ? Thanks.

Yeah, attach them to your shocks - for all sorts of reasons. Might as well get adjustable links, that'll make bar adjustments quicker and more granular.

its the other end of the market i cant understand.The super cat (colarado) is 80k,tricked out by hsv .The ranger raptor is 80k.Thats Prado and Everest territory.As a ute the twin cabs arent very good cos the tray is so short.A prado,everest,pajero etc can actually take longer items inside if you can push them right through to the front.You can fold the seats fully flat in the wagons and sleep inside and the wagons are shorter overall than the double cabs.I have a hankering to drive a raptor cos the ride of these things is most important thing for me.And the raptor comes with proper tyres,the ride deterorated somewhat on the fortuner after adding bfg all terrrains

I see you have the sway bars mounted to the control arms... do your shocks not have mounts for them?

Good work! I just put a new SAC and DMF in mine, that dowel was a right bastard too. A manual E39 really is a wonderful thing. Also, if you want a heavier throw on your shifter, I have the approx 6m of solder @Allanw wrapped around the shaft going spare

democracy is a farce. Thanos was right.

7 days till race day!!!!! Some good progress has been made over the last few days for sure! Freshly rebuilt rear end has been installed. Aluminium subframe bushes machined and installed aluminium trailing arm bushes with spherical bushes installed Hardrace camber arms installed Rear ended all painted! All the brakes are now together fully rebuilt and ready to go running ebc yellow race pads Castor adjustable front arm bushes made and Installed Exhaust is all finished off Aluminium door cards are all but done just have the rears to go Seat is all mounted with belt plates Installed Shift knob turned up (the most important part for sure) Still a few things to do in the next few days! Brake ducting to be finished and go on Wing to be mounted Wirring to be finished Gauges to be Installed Wheel alignment to be done!! Busy few days ahead

Those diffusers and brake cooling plates look cool

Ok googled it and they called it Gull because it would Sh*t on everything. Very droll Aussie humor.

To be clear I am not hating on auto - and agree that with a tune they are actually really good. But flat peak, Monster Energy vape squad aren't so keen on them.