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but you don't have cruty old lines so, it's not gotten any worse and will last for ages to come ?

I used to deal with these for work, I cant imagine you will find one for an engine. They are particular to hazardous substances so you cant disprove hazardous with one, as if it isnt hazardous or atleast wouldnt seem hazardous to a person, it wont have one. It would be hilarious to read one though Hazard type: heavy Skin exposure: will squash you Eye exposure: will squash them. Exposure limits: depends how nice the engine is... Mobility in soil: limited We only ever had SDS for liquids and lubricants contained in machiney and perhaps handling instructions like 'do not invert' on a seperate document.

For Sale: 1987 M535i Manual (WR7470) Made in West Germany, first registered in NZ. Diamond Schwarz Metallic Leather interior Full E28 M5 kit from Factory. VIN: WBADC720X00645881 More info on http://m535i.org. I have owned this car since June 2015. I have put 12000kms on it since then. Current odometer reads at 303xxx Kms. Initially, serviced with BM Workshop in Botany and then I started servicing it myself. These have become very rare especially in manual and NZ new. Fabulous car to drive with the M30B35 and the 5 speed manual box. The low end torque of the M30 makes it a very easy and smooth cruiser. I only drive it on sunny days and it's been stored in a garage during my ownership. Needless to say, it gets a lot of attention. The car has some tasteful mods done to it - the whole point was to keep it looking as OEM as possible to the general eye. Style 5 staggered wheels 17x8, 17x9. These cost me $3.5k landed in NZ in 2015. They are polished without any curbing on them. I also have the original wheels with TRX tyres - I will include these in the sale also. Tyres - RE003 225/45 and 245/40. Suspension - Bilstein B8 with AP springs. I also have the original M5 springs which will be included in the sale. And I have a set of H&R springs which will be included too. Brakes - Stainless braided lines. These improved the Brake feel by a big margin. Short shifter kit and lightened fly wheel (by the previous owner). Custom Exhaust with OEM muffler. Servicing - I have serviced her at relevant intervals. 2019 - Engine, Gearbox and Diff oil changed 2018 - Injectors got cleaned by Injector tech 2017 - BM workshop - Spark plugs, Engine oil, air filter, fuel filter 2015 - Engine oil change, Brake fluid and new dizzy cap I have records from the previous owner documenting the service history during his ownership. He had the Cylinder head and Gearbox synchro rebuilt. The bad bits and the starting with the most obvious. Rust - The previous owner was proactive in getting the rust sorted and I did my best. Unfortunately, the sunroof is showing some rust bubbles. I have a Glass sunroof from a Saab 9000 which hasn't been installed yet. This is included in the sale. More info on mye28.com Internal Fuel pump - I have a Fuel pump which replaces the internal pump and negates the use of an external fuel pump. The mod is well covered on mye28 forums. I will include this in the sale. I haven't gotten around to get this done yet. Power steering pump needs replacing. I am sure Brent/Zee has one lying around. Front passenger window switch needs replacing. AC Gas needs to be refilled. Small chip on the windscreen, 2cm across. Bonnet struts are starting to sag. I have become very busy due to work commitments and other distractions and haven't had time to get the bad bits sorted. In the last six months, I must have driven about 500kms. So, I would rather see her taken care of in someone else's hands than sit there and collect dust in mine. She loves to be driven. Price - I had an independent evaluation done in 2015 for insurance purposes and she was valued at $15,000. I am asking for $16,500. This includes all the original bits and a few extra stuff. I have a couple of keen buyers but they are based in Australia. Being a NZ new car, I would rather see her stay in NZ. Will advertise here for a couple of months first. My contact no. is 021 180 4565 - prefer SMS or wats app. Edit: I am negotiable on the price. Can sell the car without the wheels.

Hi All, Live in Te Awamutu, and we recently purchased a 135i Well, officially my girlfriend has. We have owned a 05 Cooper S for the last 3 years or so, and absolutely love it. Huge fun etc... and we have kept it well maintained. It's also been surprisingly reliable, albeit the fuel pump shat itself out of the blue one night. That''s been the only major headache other than what I'd deem general maintenance on a euro car. We were discussing a few weeks back that the Mini is due for replacement, but didn't really know what to get. We we're contemplating another Golf. We've both had Golfs in the past and liked them. Mine was a mk4 GTi, the maintenance on that was horrendous! My sister has it now, and having done over 380,000 k's it's still going strong. That's a testament to good maintenance by myself and the previous owners. The Domestic Manager had a standard mk4 (most of that before I met her). No maintenance and it fell to bits. We we're leaning toward another VW, when on a trip up to Auckland doing the rounds of the vintage clothing shops we happened upon a car yard that had a few euro's. The 135 caught our eye, and gave us the "ooooh that's nice" fuzzys. A good hour drive around Auckland (most of it stuck in traffic) sorted the "can we sit in this without getting a numb bum?" question (we're getting old), along with the feeling that it was chomping at the bit to be revved left us pretty much frothing at the mouth. Had a stupid asking price, so an offer that we thought was reasonable, and that they would probably decline, was accepted and now it's in the drive way. I've read all the horror stories on these cars, and quite frankly, don't read much into all the negative press on cars. The 135 has a good idle, revs no prob, and I get the feeling that it's been maintained. The interior is mint, and I reckon you kinda get a sense on these things. Done 85k. Fully expecting to be kept busy over the odd weekend tending to it's needs, but hey, when something can be that much fun to drive and bring a seriously smile to the dial, who cares! A quick decode of the vin shows it has the M suspension and the red interior looks too cool for school. Sadly not a manual, but the auto is easy to live with and the shifts are awesome. Gave her an oil change second day we had it, the filter being in good nick, and the oil didn't smell burnt or stressed. Joined up here to chat and discuss these cars with other owners. I like to tinker, and was a panelbeater by trade so not shy to get dirty with it. Have read many things sprawled all over the net regarding tuning etc... and may look into that at a later date. My better half reckons it's fast enough and doesn't need to be tweaked. All very well saying that, but I think if you do these things, there's likely no going back...... One newbie question i have and I hope this isn't out of line, is does the group ever do bulk buys on brake pads or other consumables? I'm still involved with vehicles for work, but don't have the close ties to suppliers that I had panelbeating, and it's no secret that the Euro parts can be mind numbing expensive! Look forward to 'meeting' you all Cheers, Blair

Thanks Kyle very comprehensive just what I was looking for.

Built by Bimmerworld for Pikes Peak racing. Body E36 M3 GTR (ALMS) carbon widebody, modified for additional cooling and downforce Full body underwing meshes a modified Lola BK240 front splitter, custom floor and undertray, and Argo JM19 Camel Lights downforce tunnels. Estimated 3,000+ lbs of downforce - 2000lbs front, 1800lbs rear at 150mph Chassis E36 unibody basis with partial tube frame Custom double A-arm front Factory BMW E46 M3 trailing arm with BimmerWorld tubular aluminum rear arms MCS 4-way dampers DCE power steering Brakes Performance Friction GT-spec endurance package Bosch Motorsport ABS Wheels & Tires Forgeline GS1R 18x12" Continental/Hoosier racing slick Engine BMW Motorsport P63 (M6 GT3) twin-turbo 4.4-liter V8 Twin Weistec Garrett GTX3076 turbos Built and tuned by Roush Engines using ported heads, forged rods & pistons Bosch Motorsport ECU Motec dash and PDM OPTIMA YellowTop battery Over 1,000hp with E85 fuel Driveline Hollinger 6-speed transaxle (rear mounted) Paddle-actuated air-shift More pics here: https://www.bimmerworld.com/E36-Hillclimb-Car/

Having had 3 VW GTIs (2x Mk5 and 1x Mk6) over the past few years- I can shed some light on these cars. Both engines are great, very tunable and pretty reliable for the most part (though there are some things to watch out for). With that being said, I’ve never had an issue with either the FSI or TSI engines. The most common things to watch out for include: FSI -potentially high oil consumption (the culprit is usually the PCV system). Easy fix -Dodgy diverter valve. Many upgrade to the revised revision D diverter valve or aftermarket. Easy fix -Carbon build up. Consider walnut blasting the valves around 120,000km -Coil packs and spark plugs fail (tuned cars only). Upgrade to Audi R8 CoP and NGK plugs -Cam follower wear. Check cam follower every 2-3 years and replace when required. Easy fix -Still uses a cambelt. Replace as required (including ancillaries) -Stage 3 (i.e. turbo upgrade – k04 etc) needs an upgraded fuel pump TSI -Dodgy cam chain tensioner (early models up to 09/2012 build dates). Catastrophic engine failure if this goes bad. Not a cheap fix due to labour. -Coil packs and spark plugs fail (tuned cars only). Upgrade to Audi R8 CoP and NGK plugs -Carbon build up. Consider walnut blasting the valves around 120,000km There are other issues that I failed to list such as intake manifolds going bad, cracked intake pipes etc but these aren’t too common… The DSGs are another matter altogether. The Mk6 DSG is better programmed than the Mk5 (blip downshifts, a bit smoother etc) but both can be very temperamental if not serviced correctly. VW requires servicing every 60,000km. If there’s no record of this being done I’d walk away. Make sure you drive a few vehicles to get a feel for the transmission as some might have clutch wear (particularly the imports sitting in Tokyo traffic). If you get a good one- you’ll be sorted as long as you take care of it. They’re great gearboxes overall just a bit hit or miss; shopping around and test drives are key… Finally, 04-08 Mk5 GTIs have hydraulic steering which I prefer over the slightly numb electric racks of the later models. With all that being said, they’re pretty solid cars and I enjoyed my ownership with them. If you have any other questions just ask- happy to help

Mighty car mods had an issue importing an engine into Australia, as it potentially contained asbestos in its head gasket. I think they planned to get the engine disassembled and then reassembled overseas with new non asbestos gaskets. So this is likely where the msds comes in. Weird that you would have to do it for an export though. But given the age of the engine, this shouldn't be a factor in your instance.

I would highly doubt there is a data sheet for an engine, and I’m pretty sure there isn’t one for the cars coming in. Going back to a previous life and H&S, I seem to recall that Data Sheets only need to be provided for items or substances that are marked as some kind of hazard, ie flammable, toxic, corrosive, etc. So, as an engine isn’t marked as a hazard it wouldn’t have one. I will talk to the guys in the parts warehouse to see if they have ever seen one for an engine... Not that it would make any difference in this context, but which type of engine is it? I guess it’s used?

i wonder if BMWNZ can help.They would have such for the cars they import?

I honestly can't feel any difference ?

I guess it takes quite a bit to raise an eyebrow with an E36 these days... 1hp/kg should go ok.

Get your kids to draw a cock and balls and attach it as a .pdf, chances are it is never even looked at

Beautiful car, tastefully done and good price IMO, GLWS.

226XXX km Brake fluid flush and swapped out for some new lines. New hoses can see the old lines starting to crack. used this vacuum bleeder I got off Wish after Glenn was recommending them, seemed to work pretty well. I've since watched an article about how stainless lines on a street car are a complete waste of time ? refilled with this stuff from BNT.

Can you prove it has no fluids in it or something?

To me it would mainly depend on condition of each and country of origin, both are decent choices and i couldn't say one is truly better than the other even though id probably go with the E34. Main issues i have with the E46 M43 are the potential very expensive failures ($450+ DISA valve and ABS module) but M52 has more smaller problems which can add up costing a bit. If you dont care about performance and are in it for the long haul then the E34 suspension is noticeably cheaper, stronger and generally easier to work on.

Not paying attention to the build???....are we???.? Mounted engine to subframe/bench to start up. Have sleeves, tubes, bushes and material to fab up mount when she goes in again. ...oh...was it my fault for not sharing this...ooops...my bad. Any way...pay more attention to the build homs??

definitely this. its still a fantastic car overall, good chassis/platform with a decent 4 pot engine. 2001 is also nice and newish in comparison. runs fine on the cheap 91 petrol etc etc

Yes ? You forgot "RUST"

Mates don't let mates buy cars with N46's.

Very mad I’m told. The coating was applied to a very loved and already very very tidy garage queen who gets very minimal use. As I said, IF it lasts 4/5 years, then it’s money well spent. If not, then its cost in comparison to the value of the car is not really a lot. I think one of the rear tires cost me more and I think I know which made me smile more when I saw it for the first time last week.

Had a wee dabble at the drags last night for the first time. Had alot of fun! It was the 2nd to last round for the season so I was fortunate to be able to do pass after pass without any queues or interruption. Managed to do 10 passes and we still hadn't got into the competitive side of it. From the get go I was surprised at the time I was getting. At a guess I thought I'd be into the high 13's but after the first pass I was left red faced with a 14.8 After about 5 passes I was starting to get the hang of the staging process, getting traction, not bogging down, not worrying about the person next to me, gears etc. A mate text me (just happens to be this guy... https://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/article.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=12314779. He cut his teeth on racing Hondas at this track, so I knew i could trust his advice) and said to drop the rear tyre pressure to 15psi. Lo and behold, I managed to basically shave half a second by leaving the line at higher revs and get a personal best of 14.2. Next time (28th of March) I want to be able to get to the 13s. The above mentioned mate said he'll lend me some proper wheels, perks of the early Hondas and the e30 having the same stud pattern! I'll also take out the sub, spare tyre in an attempt to shave a 0.1 or so off. All in all, heaps of fun and I was stoked the motor/diff/cooling swap stood up to the evening at Meremere.

Some more things to cross off the maintenance list. New rear discs and pads. Re-instated the wear sensor too. Very decently priced for the whole shebang through bmworkshop for gen ATE parts. Had an annoying issue with wind noise and a wee bit of water ingress through the rear door fixed window when washing the car, but thankfully not when raining. Was thinking it was the crusty window moulding, but turns out whoever replaced that window in the past didn’t use a thick enough bead of polyurethane. The glass was being held in tight by surrounding trims however not water or air tight. I was dreading having to cut the glass out but it just lifted right out. Put a pretty tall bead of polyurethane in an now she’s water and air tight.