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Wouldn't be an M car without bearing failure

Back on the road post-lockdown. As per last post I was having a challenge bleeding the clutch. Tried pumping clutch method (till my son and wife got fed up), reverse bleed, vacuum bleed and power bleed (thanks Nick from Weitz Ind. for the loan) but just couldn’t get all the air out and good pressure. So I ordered a replacement slave (waited a week from FCP), installed and still no improvement! So ordered new flexible hose into the slave, master cylinder from FCP (another week) and inlet hose and connector locally (Level2). Once I got the master out it was obviously toast with gaiter torn and weeping. Followed an excellent diy on how to replace the master and clean/re-lube the pedal assembly https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?785827-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Replacement-amp-Creaky-Pedal-Fix-DIY It is a real fiddly job in an awkward place. Having the drivers seat out imo made it a lot easier. Used the power bleeder, so easy to use just put a bottle of Castrol Dot4 in container, Connect to reservoir, pump up to 20psi, connect hose and catch-can to slave, open nipple, wait until fluid comes through and no air. Done. While waiting for parts I had collected some replacement door cards from Pick-a-part. They were from a 98’ coupe in grey, had a crack but otherwise great condition with no separation and pockets sound. Plastic top rails were broken but I had sourced some alloy replacements ex-Turtle Labs. Cleaned, repaired and painted the cards. Once we got to Level3 I was able to drop off to Master Trim here in Hamilton. I also dropped in the drivers seat which was well worn, separating and shabby. I sourced the material out of Arizona when I was in SoCal last year. While I had the seat out I removed the passenger seat as well and gave the carpets and seats a good clean. Master Trim had them back to me inside a week and what an improvement. Turtle’s recommendation is to place the top rail in its door clips apply the adhesive to the rail and I used Ados High Performance Adhesive Sealant which is flexible, handles heat and similar that used for mounting windscreens. Based on my research should do the job. Interior looks great now and even has that new car smell. Makes such a difference.

More pics out of order, but sharing is caring...lol After realising my manifold needed to be extended 130mm (plus a slight angle) I found some pipe at work and jumped on the 3phase mig. Super greatful to have a fab room in my office....! Once that was done I wrapped both headers and installed with brand new gaskets and nuts. Very happy with how this turned out

Depends on your level of OCD really. Apart from what you mentioned in the kit I usually end up doing everything below for piece of mind. Guido, center support bearing and driveshaft nose bushing Re-grease CV with a new gasket Transmission mounts All shifter bushings Flywheel bolts Selector rod seal (usually leaking) and rear main seal Slave cylinder Exhaust gaskets and nuts

Jeepers. Has been a while since the last update. Lots happened. I'm not going to try to update this in order so will add posts as I find / align pictures. Brief run down of tasks: Driveshaft shop driveshaft installed Driveshaft hoops installed Med case LSD Rebuilt cv's New wheel bearings pressed in Adjustable susp all round installed New brake pads / discs all round, braided lines Ditched the replica IS Lip and replaced with genuine BMW OEM (fits MILES better) Installed all remaining engine components (Y Pipe for brake booster, inlet, MAF, throttle body, injectors etc as per. All rebuilt, cleaned or replaced before install) Stripped the E39 530i loom Installed a M54 > E30 facelift loom Replaced the dash with crack free version Installed restored vents, HVAC panel Pedal box installed Clutch hard and soft lines finished New NOS carpet installed (after dyed charcoal) New hockey stick / c pillar trim gaskets New door rubbers I'll cover off some of these with pics shortly

I might just keep it for a few more months. I am using the Corona Virus as an excuse.

More to the collection this week 17x8 and 17x9 style 32s, wanted these wheels and waited a while, coincidentally found some in the north island with tyres LSD arrived, 3.46 ratio on it, also have a 3.64 medium case for it to go into so will swap the ratios as I think the .64 be too high Will be coming off the road in a couple months to start the swap. Have a detent tool kit coming from member modz, and will get a kit from FCP to do that while its out

Hey team, Heres my recently acquired E30 coupe in red. Had a pfl E30 325 coupe nearly 8 years ago and recently started looking for another one to build up. Was after a non sunroof coupe and overall tidy as such. Went slightly north and picked this up As you can tell its pretty rough on the paint side of things and was also told it has no rust, before I took it away found rust in the boot, will be getting tidied up and full paint when it's all done Anyway, got it home and put a polishing machine over it, come up alright for the meantime Next on the agenda was the overheating at traffic lights , but fine on open road, was also told fluids had just been done...water was horrible Thermostat was dry Figured it hadnt been bleed so changed thermostat and new coolant, full bleed and bingo no over heating Next issue, drivers window wasnt working, told it was regulator and given 2 with car. Pulled off door card and was unplugged, plugged in and was noisier than an outboard motor tilting on a stabicraft Pulled off regulator and put new one one and wouldnt quite fit up, turned out the splines were different. So pulled apart the noisy one and found the ball at the bottom had worn out so swapped the shaft into a good body, and the existing cap (this is important to ensure window goes up on up button, at first I didnt do this and window was doing opposite) Window all done, will lower it next and daily it for a few months. Have a m52 sitting in the shed for it, and will do a zf box. 5 stud it aswell to open up wheel choices. Slowly building up parts but keeping it on road until everything is ready

I would've deleted your question too, if thats it. You sound like a time waster trying to tank his listing. Just let the guy sell his car. If it doesn't sell, he will know its over priced.

Fook... that looks good. Edit: I'll have some questions when I pick my jaw up off the floor.

I feel like only yesterday these were north of 100k. BMW depreciation hits hard!

Some pics of the carpet in. Wasn't a simple job but so much nicer than bare floor I'd been staring at for nearly a year. I dyed it using VHT spray dye from Navy to charcoal. Still looks a bit navy in some lights but came up well, especially against the houndstooth trim.

So the missus went out for drinks one night (pre Covid) and I was a bit bored. So thought I'd give the Tail lights a good going over. Selected the best 2 out of the pile and went to work. Rubber restore on the best gaskets Disassembled the housings Gave them a bath - dishwash liquid to the rescue! After a good dry and blow out with an air hose they had a plastic polish. Came up pretty well. Now they're in storage wrapped up in bubble wrap until they can be fitted.

Rear crank seal? Might be worth it at that mileage.

@M3AN - it is this Narva dual usb port. Got it from Repco (25% off finishing tomorrow). Parts I used: 1 x USB socket and a 1 x female blade insert type connector like this one. As a non-smoker I have no need, or desire, for cig lighters (and ashtrays for that matter!). Since I was at it, I took out the 'butt stubbers' (or whatever they are) out of the ashtrays too. Now they are a bit more practical little hidden storage spaces. And keeps everything factory looking at the same time. Mounting There are two mounting options. I used the socket and ring to fit mine, which gave a better factory look IMO. I discarded the rectangle screw mounting piece. Be aware that clearance beneath the original mounting location is tight but this can be overcome I reckon, with the appropriate connector. These are the steps I took to mounting the socket after removing the trim (which was way to easy!), disconnecting all wiring, taking out the light (which I lose as I had to remove the plastic part it inserts to) and working from a bench ie kitchen table: Remove cig lighter/holder without breaking/damaging any plastic. I took out the light, but I kept the wiring in tact and left it there all taped up and tucked away. You do lose this light when its all done. Cut away the plastic that holds the cylinder and light whilst being very careful not to break any clips and trying to get it flush as possible. I used a mini hacksaw but I guess a dremel tool would work as well. Widen the hole slightly (there is a bit of a 'lip' that I took back the outer circumference edge) in order for the socket to fit snuggly and flushish with the top (it ends up pretty flush). I also evened out the area that I cut out above. I used a dremel tool with a conical sanding bit and took it back slowly whilst test fitting the socket until it was flush enough and I was happy with how it was fitting. Insert the usb socket, orientate to your preference and then secure by screwing on the ring from below until tight. Wiring I used the existing cigarette wiring to power it. I taped up the end of the light wiring and then tucked it out of the way. The red/white dot wire is positive (+). Modification is required as the existing plug doesn't fit the male blade connector of the socket. I cut off the plug and put on the female blade connector. I did this by stripping some wire and crimping on the female connector. Caution here, the only connector I had available a suitable was quite long. Although it fits it is snug - I suspect it is touching the floor. Be careful not to use to much force when putting everything back in, the bottom trim may seem like it sits too high, but will seats nicely when the mid is inserted into its place. It pushes it down and holds it. A right angle or smaller length connector is probably ideal, but i had to use what I had laying around and it works for now. The brown wiring is negative/ground (-). No modification is needed as the existing connector is the right size, and right angled too, to fit on the sockets male blade connector. Connect wires to socket (- and + are marked on socket so make sure they are connected appropriately) and check that it is receiving power and charges a device, Mine didn't initially, found that I had a blown cig lighter fuse. Once you're happy reinstall all wiring connectors and trim, reset time and date on the mid, then have a cup of tea. And enjoy passenger and driver usb charging! I've also installed one into another car as well. Best mod to both so far. Well best mod this week ?! Sorry I didn't take any pics therefore the above is just what I remember doing but pretty accurate, so hope this helps someone out. Cheers!