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Saw this on Reddit. This guy's description was dead on. First off, fantastic color choice. Thank you for the pictures. Enough has been said about the face. That said this makes the rear door problem really apparent. It's just so lazy that they didn't more smoothly blend the rear wheel arch with the rear door. And I didn't know the "prolapsed anus" rear bumper came on the M3 too, thought it was just the M4...I'll bet it drives really nice though! At least you can't see the outside when you're sitting in it!

20 years... dude should have done in NZ. After a few months of home detention he'd get to enjoy his nice new BMW.

Installed adjustable sway bar end links and readjusted my short shifter throw and height. Then gave it a wash and wax to celebrate, looking like a rolling mirror. Went to Supermarket, come back to my car and some prick has thrown a half empty 2 litre coke bottle next it, splashing coke on one side. See a small group of teenagers not far away sitting on one of those big clothing recycling bins drinking coke - I take the bottle up to them and asked angrily if they had dropped their bottle - it become pretty clear who was the culprit so I barked a mini lecture and flicked the bottle up at him, fortunately scoring a direct hit in the face. Got home and the coke had beaded right off, thanks CarPro Elixer - hopefully the kids learnt a little lesson too.

Yes, I definetly think its worth doing. We would love to see your progress.

This is like the New Zealand version of “Falling Down”.

Last post Dec 17 😳 ^ Wow where to start!.. Long story short.. Early 2018 I added a third vehicle to my 'fleet' and built a campervan which took up a chunk of my free time along with work,life,friends,family + other non car projects. The e30 mostly ended up on the back burner. I still have the car and recently put some time into it so I will see if I can add the missing pics above and get this up-to-date Early 2018 I did some rust work on the boot..

TBH... the guy should have tried to shoot his way out of the dealership and done everyone a favour !!! Cheers...

Prices seem to be rising faster than inner city 3-bed houses....

A X7 with “X3” on the back of it. Yes, I double checked...

Certifier was ok with me welding the mounts so they are finished now, happy with how they turned out. Now I can get to the bottom of the engine again I'm plotting out where the oil returns are to the sump so I can model them into the new dry sump pan.

That's a bit sh*t. It's a wanted ad but I thought i'd made it clear that I was happy to hear any suggestions etc for what to get and from where. I thought that was the point of the forum?

Hands down the best 404 screen I ever met https://www.carthrottle.com/post/66dy4dx/ Try all combinations of the arrow keys to see how it works. Cheers...

Without pics, I'd say about 15k A prefacelift 4 door factory manual sold for 12k within hours and had multiple offers so id say in the same ballpark

Poked around under the wheel arches while sweeping the garage. Most of this is from the rear left arch, not the first time I have cleaned it, amazing how much dirt can build up. Saw the first e30 at pick-a-part for a while, 2.5 manual! Unfortunately in the 7 days it was in the yard before I got there it was nearly completely stripped. Might be a good thing knowing my spare part collecting habit. Got the piece of plastic trim which runs along the boot as mine is all cracked + a bunch of plastic clips etc New cambelt + waterpump Tested the injectors (purchased rebuild kit from ebay a while ago), jumped fuel pump relay to make sure none were leaking, tested resistance = ok. The first time I put pressure to the fuel rail it appeared my feed hose clamp was leaking but it still leaked after I tightened it, closer inspection revealed the fuel hose was cracked, lucky I noticed. THIS IS THE FUEL HOSE I REPLACED ABOUT 2 YEARS AGO: I assume the problem here is a google search tells me SAE 30 R7 is not suitable for 'Fuel Injection' you should use SAE 30 R9. Why is it labelled 'injection hose' then? Seems to mainly be the outer layer which is cracked. The hose is codan brand, a google search tells me codan is good, a google search also tells me people have had 'R9' hoses crack after a couple of years, even 'Gates' brand R9 hose. Then there is a question of whether those people received 'genuine' 'Gates' hose or not. Substandard parts are frustrating, can't trust anyone anymore. Purchased some SAE 30 R9 hose, replaced the feed line, still have the original return hose on the car (not cracked), holding off replacing it as currently I trust that 27 year old hose more than the new stuff. Sending injectors away for a flow test / cleaning seems to run about $200 - $250 so I came up with a backyard solution. You need something to pulse the injectors because if you hold them open for too long it might damage them. Below is an 'em276 injector tester' cost about $40. I jumped the fuel pump relay and ran the injectors for 30 seconds each timed against a stop watch. If you do this I suggest a fused wire with a switch to jump the pump relay (be careful with sparks around fuel vapour!) Some empty bottles allowed for observation of the spray pattern All even. A 60 second test is probably better for the bottle size. Decided there was no reason to rebuild them but then I tried cleaning the pintle caps with degreaser which was a mistake as the dirty degreaser got stuck underneath them. So I replaced the pintle caps and decided I might aswell use the rest of the rebuild kit aswell, the basket filters looked clean when I pulled them out, new orings etc. I don't think I gained anything doing this as the injectors were already working well. but anyway, rebuilt, re-flow tested and reinstalled. Degreaser did not do much while trying to clean the inside of the intake manifold but sca throttle body / card cleaner did. New 'rein' 3 way heater hose to replace the original with bulging end. Annoyingly the bit by the overflow tank is about 1 inch longer than the original for some reason, still usable but doesn't sit properly (doesn't fit into clamp in the back of air box). New intake gaskets, it seems they commonly get oil soaked from the valve cover, maybe why they fail, so I tried something different. The outer edge of the gasket seems to be raw cut (doesn't have any coating) I assume this allows oil to soak into the gasket easier. So I put a FINE layer of silicone on the outer edge. I didn't use silicone on the gasket face itself, personally I am not a fan of silicone gasket goo, if bmw didn't put it there neither do I. Too many times I have seen / heard of it separating and ending up in the wrong place. I have seen people say torque specs are only for wheel bolts and head bolts. Each to their own, generally if I can find a torque spec I use it. Deleted more of the silicone hose that was on the car when I got it. This is the t-stat to throttle body hose, as mentioned before, I prefer the molded hoses, the silicone ones seem more trouble than they are worth. This one has yellow tape around it because it didn't sit properly and kept rubbing on something. Maybe the original hoses are molded for a reason. Motor is back together and running, haven't driven it yet as there are other things to be done...

Hi all My E39 has been written off by a minor in a stolen Nissan Safari. Vero has offered me the wreck for $1,500, which I actually thought was quite steep. Anyway I just thought I'd see if anyone from the Bimmersport community wants it first? Let me know by this Sunday 21 March via PM. The only panels not damaged by the hit are the front bumper, LR door, LR quarter and boot. The RR wheel has been toed in too, so there's something bent back there. The M60B44 had not had its timing chains done and was idling rough when cold due to a suspected faulty vanos unit or two. But once warmed up it hummed along nicely. The gearbox was a little whiney when warm. It moved through the forward gears well but would be slow to engage reverse. Had the seat twist issue. Can't think of any other issues. No leaks. Just wof-ed a month prior to the hit. The wreck will need to be collected from Ngauranga. Thread on the vehicle: